Twice the hops and twice the yeast in an APA

[alek]

Hi all. Please allow me to introduce myself: I'm an idiot.

Now that the formalities are out of the way, I'll share my situation. I split the ingredients for a 5-gallon APA batch in half as I'm fermenting in a Mr. Beer container, but I threw in the whole amount of hops and yeast. Now, I have been reading here for a while so I'm going to follow through with this batch until the end, but I have a couple of questions:

1. Is there something I can do to improve the batch at this point?
2. Will the yeast meant for a 5-gallon batch increase the alcohol percentage?
3. Will this same amount of yeast over-carbonate the beer after I bottle?
4. Will it take a shorter amount of time to ferment?
5. Any other tips or cautionary advice about this batch?


Thanks in advance.

Edited to add the recipe:

Recipe: Partial
Batch: 2.5 gallon
Ingredients:
- 3 lbs light DME
- 1/4 lbs 60°L Crystal, crushed
- 1/4 lbs Cara Pils, crushed
- 1/4 lbs Aromatic, crushed
- 1 oz Cascade @ 60 minutes (I used 2 oz)
- 1/4 oz Cascade @ 10 minutes (I used 1/2 oz)
- 1/2 oz Cascade, steeped after boil for ten minutes (I used 1 oz)
- 1/2 package of Wyeast #1056 American (I used the full package)
OG (for the 5-gallon batch): 1.050-1.054
FG (for the 5-gallon batch): 1.0012-1.015

If I ran the numbers correctly, with the doubled hops, I should I expect ~72IBUs.

 

[archiefl98]

1. Wait. Time heals all beers
2. For the most part - No, there is only so much sugar that can be converted into alcohol, more yeast will just do it faster. (It may be a specific gravity point or two lower than expected, but you should be fine)
3. The longer you let it wait after primary fermentation has completed, the more yeast will drop out of suspension. Again, the yeast need to turn a certain amount of sugar into alcohol and CO2. How much carbonation you end up with largely depends on how much priming sugar you use. Definitely do not put 5 gallons worth of priming sugar into a 2.5 gallon batch. That would be bottle bomb time.
4. Very possible, but see number 1
5. Nope.

 

[cheezydemon3]

1. Is there something I can do to improve the batch at this point?



Thanks in advance.

Sounds like you already improved the mr beer recipe.

Likely you now have an IPA that was properly pitched.

Relax, have some patience, and enjoy the hop flavor!

 

[alek]

1. Wait. Time heals all beers
2. For the most part - No, there is only so much sugar that can be converted into alcohol, more yeast will just do it faster. (It may be a specific gravity point or two lower than expected, but you should be fine)
3. The longer you let it wait after primary fermentation has completed, the more yeast will drop out of suspension. Again, the yeast need to turn a certain amount of sugar into alcohol and CO2. How much carbonation you end up with largely depends on how much priming sugar you use. Definitely do not put 5 gallons worth of priming sugar into a 2.5 gallon batch. That would be bottle bomb time.
4. Very possible, but see number 1
5. Nope.

Thank you. I will definitely not to that.

Sounds like you already improved the mr beer recipe.

Likely you now have an IPA that was properly pitched.

Relax, have some patience, and enjoy the hop flavor!

Thank you. This was actually a partial recipe; all I'm using from Mr. Beer is the fermentor, but I won't complain about an IPA.

I actually love Cascade hops so I'm sure I will like it. What I'm mostly disappointed about is that I wanted to make a good APA a few times as a foundation to perfect my own recipe, so this will hold me in place for a couple of weeks until I can brew another batch. Not too worried about it; just disappointed with my lack of attention to detail.

 

[cheezydemon3]

I respect your ability to publicly post your mistake.


Re-use the yeast cake, and brew as much as possible.

Homebrew needs to age.

This is easiest to do when you have more than one batch to drink from.

 

[alek]

Re-use the yeast cake, and brew as much as possible.

I looked up yeast cake re-use and it seems that washing it is the preferred method. Could I pour new wort in the fermentor immediately after the current batch will be out? The only difference in the wort will be the hop content.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Absolutely!

As long as no infection is present, reuse is fine and best if immediate.

 

[Pivot]

Yeah I just poured some brand new wort on a yeats cake that had already fermented 2 other batches of beer. The new ones fermentation exploded within the hour. Reusing yeast cakes are fantastic, just make sure you reuse it pretty much immediately after racking or else you need to wash it. And don't use the same cake after about 5 or 6 generations. ive read that apparently it mutates too much and is no good for brewing at this point

 

[cheezydemon3]

Ummmm....I've used a cake after 2 months, no washing.

It made fantastic beer.

 

[feedbag]

How much yeast and hops are we talking about here? How bout posting a recipe!?

 

[muthafuggle]

Welcome to the obsession...

Definately pitch new wort onto the old yeast, but make sure you have SOME hops in brew #2 even if you are going to combine the batches afterword. The hops react with both the yeast and some proteins during the boil and aging to keep the beer beer. (sorry for the double word, but you can probably get my meaning).

Hops are pretty cheap. The good news is, this is an easy fix!

 

[Pivot]

Ummmm....I've used a cake after 2 months, no washing.

It made fantastic beer.

You mean to say you had a dirty ol' carboy sitting around the house for 2 months untouched with a yeast cake in it, and then you finally decided to dump more wort onto it?

forgive me if I don't exactly believe you haha

 

[alek]

How much yeast and hops are we talking about here? How bout posting a recipe!?

Recipe: Partial
Batch: 2.5 gallon
Ingredients:
- 3 lbs light DME
- 1/4 lbs 60°L Crystal, crushed
- 1/4 lbs Cara Pils, crushed
- 1/4 lbs Aromatic, crushed
- 1 oz Cascade @ 60 minutes (I used 2 oz)
- 1/4 oz Cascade @ 10 minutes (I used 1/2 oz)
- 1/2 oz Cascade, steeped after boil for ten minutes (I used 1 oz)
- 1/2 package of Wyeast #1056 American (I used the full package)
OG (for the 5-gallon batch): 1.050-1.054
FG (for the 5-gallon batch): 1.0012-1.015

If I ran the numbers correctly, with the doubled hops, I should I expect ~72IBUs.

 

[feedbag]

Recipe: Partial
Batch: 2.5 gallon
Ingredients:
- 3 lbs light DME
- 1/4 lbs 60°L Crystal, crushed
- 1/4 lbs Cara Pils, crushed
- 1/4 lbs Aromatic, crushed
- 1 oz Cascade @ 60 minutes (I used 2 oz)
- 1/4 oz Cascade @ 10 minutes (I used 1/2 oz)
- 1/2 oz Cascade, steeped after boil for ten minutes (I used 1 oz)
- 1/2 package of Wyeast #1056 American (I used the full package)
OG (for the 5-gallon batch): 1.050-1.054
FG (for the 5-gallon batch): 1.0012-1.015

If I ran the numbers correctly, with the doubled hops, I should I expect ~72IBUs.

Sounds like a good American IPA, a full pack of Wyeast is not going to be close to too much. Most people step up a pack with a starter for a 5 gallon batch. Also, according to Mr. Malty, with an OG of 1.054, you would need one pack of liquid yeast for 2.5 gallons, assuming your OG was on the lower end a 1.050, you would need .9, nowhere close to an overpitch. Your beer is going to be great, just might not be a Pale Ale, but an India Pale Ale.

 

[alek]

Thank you. Since I plan to pour the next wort on top of the existing yeast cake, will the extra hops in the existing yeast cake have a dry-hopping effect? Should I use less hops for the next batch (same recipe)?

 

[Haputanlas]

Hi all. Please allow me to introduce myself: I'm an idiot.

My god, that was funny. You just gave me a good laugh.

 

[cheezydemon3]

You mean to say you had a dirty ol' carboy sitting around the house for 2 months untouched with a yeast cake in it, and then you finally decided to dump more wort onto it?

forgive me if I don't exactly believe you haha

:cross: Believe what you will.

It was actually a pail, and the yeast was all dried and cracked.....

What?

 

[alek]

Update:

I bottled two nights ago. The aroma was very good and so was the taste. I can't wait for this batch to carbonate!

 

[alek]

Another update:

The beer turned out very good, but it a pretty bitter aftertaste. It's not nasty by any means, but I would not prefer it that bitter. Based on the online calculators, I keep coming up with 150-190 IBUs. It is noticeably more bitter than an Arrogant Bastard Ale, but not horribly so. I have named it Bitter and Clinging IPAx2.

Could someone please confirm my IBU calculations in case I'm missing something? The AA% of the hops was 7.8. O.G. 1.055.

Thanks.

 

[cheezydemon3]

Double the hops of a pale ale created that much IBU's???

I kind of doubt it, but then again I was doubted 3-4 posts back, so I won't say you are wrong!lol.

I can't calculate at the moment , but will when I get home if no one else has.

 

[alek]

Thanks. So, you don't have to sort through the entire thread for the numbers, here's a condensed version:

Cascade hops, 7.8% AA: 2oz @60, .5oz @ 10, 1oz steep during chilling.
O.G.: 1.055
Batch: 2 gallons

If you need more info, please see the recipe in one of my previous posts. Thanks again.

 

[alek]

The one I had last night was actually less bitter. Here's a photo of it:

 

[IceFisherChris]

I'm seeing about 130 IBU on my beer smith calculation...!!!