Turning your Fermonster into a complete closed transfer system for cheap!

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I’m hoping the fine folks that used this build can help me out. I was asked to write a DIY column for a brewing publication for this build with step by step instructions switch pictures. One of the pictures needs to be an “Action shot” of a closed transfer in progress using this lid. I don’t have any great pictures of my self doing it nor do I have anything in fermenters now.

Would anyone like to pm me with some pictures of them using this lid to transfer that has good lighting? If I use your picture I will give you credit on the photo.
just bumping it one more time incase anyone has one. Going to finish my article tonight
 
How do you add the dry hops?
I have done the sous vide magnet trick with placing the hop bag in ahead of time and releasing them via the magnets when it is time.. It worked fine... I am not sure it is necessary.. but I was able to keep the lid on the fermenter.
 
I really like this. I recently picked up an Anvil Chubby on a black friday deal, and I think this would be far more pleasant to use than the Chubby is. After using it I thought about essentially doing the same thing to my Big Bubbler.

One tiny suggestion.. for the drill bits, if you have spade bits they might be desirable because they drill a perfectly round hole where a standard drill bit does not.
 
So initially you connect a blow off tube to the ball valve? Seems like an interesting design.
Sorry for the slow reply.. Yes; Open blow-off valve to ferment, then shut it to transfer...As an added bonus, when I use it for sanitizing kegs, I can easily measure out 7.5 gallons of Star San so that I can let it run over the top and out disconnects while putting the lid on my cornys, and that part can be done by gravity using CO2 to initiate a full hose, then I open the valve and shut off the CO2.
 
@Dgallo I have 2 videos. One of the fermentation co2 pushing sanitizer out of a Torpedo keg, and another of a forced transfer. I have a few still images too if you want them

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The images are what I need as it will be in a magazine not an online publication. If you can send those that we sweet but I can also take some still frames from the videos. Thanks man
 
The images are what I need as it will be in a magazine not an online publication. If you can send those that we sweet but I can also take some still frames from the videos. Thanks man
PXL_20220307_000646692.jpgPXL_20220313_024415285.jpgPXL_20220313_024425916.jpgPXL_20220301_235656753.jpgPXL_20220306_160523992.jpg
 
Thank you to everyone that sent me pictures, I appreciated it immensely. I went with one of the transfer pictures that @Deric sent me.

The article is ready for print and will be published in the March - April edition of BYO magazine. Be on the look out!
 
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Thank you to everyone that sent me pictures, I appreciated it immensely. I went with one of the transfer pictures that @Deric sent me.

The article is ready for print and will be published in the March - April edition of BYO magazine. Be on the look out!
Just read the article tonight in my March/April issue. Congrats on having this published. Awesome.
 
Anyone ever consider adding a third keg post to their fermonster? I was thinking I could have a second gas in post connected to an actual dip tube that could be used just to rouse hops after dry hopping. Then the original liquid out post with floating dip tube, and gas in post with no dip tube could be used for transfer. Overkill?
 
Anyone ever consider adding a third keg post to their fermonster? I was thinking I could have a second gas in post connected to an actual dip tube that could be used just to rouse hops after dry hopping. Then the original liquid out post with floating dip tube, and gas in post with no dip tube could be used for transfer. Overkill?
You certainly could youd just have to measure out the configuration. That said, You’ll also rouse the yeast and trub too. Which will be somewhat problematic

You’re better off doing what I’m doing now. I have two modified lids and fermonsters. I use one for primary and crashing. Then i use a second as a purged dryhop fermonster. I’ll then close transfer from the primary one to the second one(purged and preloaded with the dryhop). Now that the Dh fermonster is free of the yeast cake and trub, you can pick it up and agitate it as you please to get your hops all moved around.
 
You certainly could youd just have to measure out the configuration. That said, You’ll also rouse the yeast and trub too. Which will be somewhat problematic

You’re better off doing what I’m doing now. I have two modified lids and fermonsters. I use one for primary and crashing. Then i use a second as a purged dryhop fermonster. I’ll then close transfer from the primary one to the second one(purged and preloaded with the dryhop). Now that the Dh fermonster is free of the yeast cake and trub, you can pick it up and agitate it as you please to get your hops all moved around.
Yeah good point, you'd need to cut the dip tube short to attempt to rouse just the dry hops. I did not realize you were using a whole separate fermonster to dry hop, smart! What is your process for purging and loading hops into the second one?
 
Yeah good point, you'd need to cut the dip tube short to attempt to rouse just the dry hops. I did not realize you were using a whole separate fermonster to dry hop, smart! What is your process for purging and loading hops into the second one?
I liquid purge the fermonster as if it were a keg. I usually do this with fermentation gas.

Then I have a dedicated line on my regulator that fitted with a liquid ballock. When I’m ready to dryhop, I get my hops ready and start to unscrew the lid right before it comes off I’ll connect the gas line with the liquid ballock to the liquid post/floating diptube of the fermonster and I run gas. That way as I dump the hops in (quickly and deliberately) there is a constant flow of gas preventing as much o2 as possible from entering. Then I’ll place the top back on while the gas is flowing and start to screw it then cut the flow of co2
 
I liquid purge the fermonster as if it were a keg. I usually do this with fermentation gas.

Then I have a dedicated line on my regulator that fitted with a liquid ballock. When I’m ready to dryhop, I get my hops ready and start to unscrew the lid right before it comes off I’ll connect the gas line with the liquid ballock to the liquid post/floating diptube of the fermonster and I run gas. That way as I dump the hops in (quickly and deliberately) there is a constant flow of gas preventing as much o2 as possible from entering. Then I’ll place the top back on while the gas is flowing and start to screw it then cut the flow of co2
Makes perfect sense, no different than using a keg and same level of oxygen exposure as dry hopping in a single fermonster but with the benefit of being able to really shake it. I'll need to think about whether agitation is worth the price of a second fermonster setup.
 
Makes perfect sense, no different than using a keg and same level of oxygen exposure as dry hopping in a single fermonster but with the benefit of being able to really shake it. I'll need to think about whether agitation is
I think agitation makes a difference. I feel my beers right now are the best they’ve been. There’s certainly other ways to do, like you mentioned a dry hoping keg. My only issue with that personally is that I like to yield a full keg. But if your able to find a cheap 6 or 10 gallon keg that’s an option too
 
I just saw these mini keg adapters with gas/liquid ball lock connectors. I can't seem to find the size of the threaded piece, though. I was wondering if they might work well with my original lid with a pre-drilled hole (If I could find a nut).
Anyone have any experience with them?
Mini-Beer-Keg-Dispenser-Double-Ball-Lock-Stainless-Steel-Homebrew-Beers-Tool-Wine-Tap-Dispense...png
 
I just saw these mini keg adapters with gas/liquid ball lock connectors. I can't seem to find the size of the threaded piece, though. I was wondering if they might work well with my original lid with a pre-drilled hole (If I could find a nut).
Anyone have any experience with them?
View attachment 826550
Looks like a potential world of aggrivation if you can't find a nut to fit and manage to properly sink and seal the o-ring. If you're going to order from aliexpress anyway, I can personally vouch for this seller;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...4a016913403791434529e20b5!66911411582!sh!CA!0The PRV is essentially useless as your Fermonster would blow apart well before reaching the pressure to open it, but if you want a versatile single-unit/hole design, See my 'Fermhead' on the previous page; post #477 ..yeah I'm tooting my own horn, but I've been using it regularly and love it! Otherwise, I'd just recommend buying the standard parts tha majority of users in this thread have been successfully using for some time now...SHFC on aliexpress has them all, but more locally you can buy them and all the other bits from:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostliquid.htm:mug:
 
Looks like a potential world of aggrivation if you can't find a nut to fit and manage to properly sink and seal the o-ring. If you're going to order from aliexpress anyway, I can personally vouch for this seller;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/330...4a016913403791434529e20b5!66911411582!sh!CA!0The PRV is essentially useless as your Fermonster would blow apart well before reaching the pressure to open it, but if you want a versatile single-unit/hole design, See my 'Fermhead' on the previous page; post #477 ..yeah I'm tooting my own horn, but I've been using it regularly and love it! Otherwise, I'd just recommend buying the standard parts tha majority of users in this thread have been successfully using for some time now...SHFC on aliexpress has them all, but more locally you can buy them and all the other bits from:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostliquid.htm:mug:
Your Fermhead looks like what I was hoping this could be. I agree with your point of stressing the lid attaching to the ball locks in the original design. I went through some aggravation with that. The parts from the original design are no longer available. The first ball locks I bought had a slightly recessed ring at the top that made getting a seal a PITA. Not to mention that I drilled the holes slightly bigger than the threads. On the second attempt, I did better on the holes. I bought ball locks without that rescission, and drilled the holes a little smaller, where I had to thread the ball locks through the lid. But, I eventually got the dreaded crack on the outside of the lid. That's what's got me looking for a better solution. If the item I posted had the TC connection like yours, it be perfect.
So do you have a parts list? Looks like you needed something between that 4 way and the ball locks?
 
Your Fermhead looks like what I was hoping this could be. I agree with your point of stressing the lid attaching to the ball locks in the original design. I went through some aggravation with that. The parts from the original design are no longer available. The first ball locks I bought had a slightly recessed ring at the top that made getting a seal a PITA. Not to mention that I drilled the holes slightly bigger than the threads. On the second attempt, I did better on the holes. I bought ball locks without that rescission, and drilled the holes a little smaller, where I had to thread the ball locks through the lid. But, I eventually got the dreaded crack on the outside of the lid. That's what's got me looking for a better solution. If the item I posted had the TC connection like yours, it be perfect.
So do you have a parts list? Looks like you needed something between that 4 way and the ball locks?
Mine's not a TC.. It's just a regular NPT tee and close-coupler with a flat SS washer under the tee, and a flat silicone o-ring between that and the the tee (allows you to just tighten it by hand), and on the inside of the lid; a simple grooved locknut and o-ring.
1-gas bulkhead (1/2"NPT)
1-liquid bulkhead (1/2"NPT)
1-ball-valve (1/2"NPT)
1-1/2"NPT>1/2" hose barb
1-1/2"NPT cross
1-1/2"NPT close coupler
1-flat SS washer
1-flat silicone washer
1-1/2" o-ring
1-1/2" grooved lock nut
 
Oh!... And 1 floating diptube.
(Hope I didn't miss anything else..I actually do have brain damage and a limited memory span so I don't do well with lists longer than about 5 items :p )
 
And 'Oh!' again.. I only just realized I had put up a picture of 2 units in which one of them had a TC end...Sorry for any confusion. My goal was to have a single unit I could adapt to any fermenter and I did make one that I can use with a 2"TC for use with a sanke keg as a fermenter.
I should probably also mention here that if you assemble one: Make sure and feed the floating diptube hose through the tee and attach before you screw the bulkhead down. Hope this picture is more clear than my words:
RawFermhead.jpeg
 
Hey everyone,
So I made my attempt at this with the equipment I have on hand, so instead of drilling a solid top I ran a line from my airlock to the keg. I am about 24-36hrs into visible fermentation, only about 1.5gals have been pushed out of the keg so far. I’m sure this varies but how long is it taking for the keg to be purged?

I’ve been watching the line coming out and flow has been very inconsistent despite very active fermentation. I was concerned about a leaks somewhere but I get a hiss when I pull the PRV, and I pulled the bung and got a hiss too which to me would suggest they are good. So Im wondering how consistent a flow you all get, also thinking maybe my lines are too long? Tested it with my CO2 and it ran fine.
 

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Hey everyone,
So I made my attempt at this with the equipment I have on hand, so instead of drilling a solid top I ran a line from my airlock to the keg. I am about 24-36hrs into visible fermentation, only about 1.5gals have been pushed out of the keg so far. I’m sure this varies but how long is it taking for the keg to be purged?

I’ve been watching the line coming out and flow has been very inconsistent despite very active fermentation. I was concerned about a leaks somewhere but I get a hiss when I pull the PRV, and I pulled the bung and got a hiss too which to me would suggest they are good. So Im wondering how consistent a flow you all get, also thinking maybe my lines are too long? Tested it with my CO2 and it ran fine.
I’m sure your getting leaks, and as a result it can’t build pressure, causing it to transfer very slowly.

Your better off taking out the air lock and pushing your blow off hose throug an inverted bung. That way you won’t have leaks as the hosing will be snug and the bung won’t be able to push out because it will be inverted
 
You might also want to get a gravity assist by having the keg higher than the bucket.
Got to be carful with that when it’s still connected to the fv. The gravity drop will most likely cause a siphon and if that happens the liquid volume change will be greater than the speed of blow off and could cause a vacuum, potentially ruining the fv
 
Hey everyone,
So I made my attempt at this with the equipment I have on hand, so instead of drilling a solid top I ran a line from my airlock to the keg. I am about 24-36hrs into visible fermentation, only about 1.5gals have been pushed out of the keg so far. I’m sure this varies but how long is it taking for the keg to be purged?

I’ve been watching the line coming out and flow has been very inconsistent despite very active fermentation. I was concerned about a leaks somewhere but I get a hiss when I pull the PRV, and I pulled the bung and got a hiss too which to me would suggest they are good. So Im wondering how consistent a flow you all get, also thinking maybe my lines are too long? Tested it with my CO2 and it ran fine.
One of our fellows on here with a working brain (not me:p ) could probably cite the minimum pressure required to purge a keg, and although low, a push-in stopper with a blowoff tube is just asking for the FV pressure to pop it out. If you only want a blowoff tube and not the whole CO2/diptube this thread covers, you really do still want to get a solid lid and drill a hole even if it's to put in a barb as a bulkhead for a blowoff tube...this is what I did myself before adding the QD's and such.
You only need a drill and this:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/truebulkheadbarb.htmand of course:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fermonster-lid.htm:mug:
 
Thanks everyone for the replies! This was purely me being cheap/lazy I plan to do the method as described in OP eventually.

@Dgallo thanks for the response, I went ahead and switched the bung. It’s been like that for about 1.5 hr nothing yet, we’ll see. The only other leak I can think of is at the gas post.
 
I suspect I know what folks response will be but I’ll ask anyway.

Been using this method with great sucess(borat voice), managing to avoid blowoffs even with high gravity raw ales fermented with kviek. Alas what got me was a brown ale with WY Yorkshire, and now I even have the blowoff going into the second keg I daisy chained.

The keg this beer is going into was obviously cleaned sanitized, and I’ve always done the same with my lines just in case this happened. What do yall think? Roll with it or start over? I feel fairly confident in my sanitation process but I am also somewhat concerned about the blowoff running through that gas post and not cleaning it.

Thanks!
 
I suspect I know what folks response will be but I’ll ask anyway.

Been using this method with great sucess(borat voice), managing to avoid blowoffs even with high gravity raw ales fermented with kviek. Alas what got me was a brown ale with WY Yorkshire, and now I even have the blowoff going into the second keg I daisy chained.

The keg this beer is going into was obviously cleaned sanitized, and I’ve always done the same with my lines just in case this happened. What do yall think? Roll with it or start over? I feel fairly confident in my sanitation process but I am also somewhat concerned about the blowoff running through that gas post and not cleaning it.

Thanks!

I'd make sure the gas post is not clogged, but if some blow off got into the serving keg, not a big deal. Some of us also ferment in our serving kegs so we have more yeast at the bottom than one with some blow off.
 
And 'Oh!' again.. I only just realized I had put up a picture of 2 units in which one of them had a TC end...Sorry for any confusion. My goal was to have a single unit I could adapt to any fermenter and I did make one that I can use with a 2"TC for use with a sanke keg as a fermenter.
I should probably also mention here that if you assemble one: Make sure and feed the floating diptube hose through the tee and attach before you screw the bulkhead down. Hope this picture is more clear than my words:
View attachment 826566
I finally got around to trying this. I'm having trouble getting the NPT joints to seal - even with thread tape. Did you have any issues?
 
I finally got around to trying this. I'm having trouble getting the NPT joints to seal - even with thread tape. Did you have any issues?
I had no problem, but just to check; Did you source your parts from an honest vendor? The only problems I've run into usually steps from parts sold as 'NPT' when they're actually mixed with BSP or that wierd metric thread.
Mine have about 5 or 6 turns of regular white teflon tape.
 
I had no problem, but just to check; Did you source your parts from an honest vendor? The only problems I've run into usually steps from parts sold as 'NPT' when they're actually mixed with BSP or that wierd metric thread.
Mine have about 5 or 6 turns of regular white teflon tape.
Damn, maybe that's it. I bought some from Amazon, but the liquid post has no way to attach a dip tube! What do they expect you to do with that? Mount it at the bottom of your keg?
Anyway, I bought another from Aliexpress. The threads seem to match like any other NPT, but even with tape and cranking them down pretty tight, I put some Starsan in and a little pressure, and get the Starsan bubbling out. Maybe I'll try a little silicone caulking on the threads.
 
but the liquid post has no way to attach a dip tube!
Do you mean the included diptube is too short to attach a silicone line, or there is no SS diptube at all?
I've seen that most floating diptubes for sale, with the exception of the ones for Fermzilla's, usually include a long enough SS diptube with an inch or so below the bulkhead. Can you post a pic of your parts all laid out?
EDIT: Here my bulkhead/diptube;
IMG_1407sm.jpeg
 
Do you mean the included diptube is too short to attach a silicone line, or there is no SS diptube at all?
I've seen that most floating diptubes for sale, with the exception of the ones for Fermzilla's, usually include a long enough SS diptube with an inch or so below the bulkhead. Can you post a pic of your parts all laid out?
EDIT: Here my bulkhead/diptube;
View attachment 839373
No dip tube at all. And that piece is machined as one piece. No way to at one.
PSA - don't buy this for this type of setup
TAPCRAFT Homebrew 19/32-18 Ball Lock Post with 1/2 Inch NPT Thread Bulkhead Assembly New Ball Lock Post (Liquid+Gas) Amazon.com
 

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Maybe a new thread is in order for the different build that is being discussed? Figure it would be less confusing for people trying to build either of the setups if they were in separate threads
That's a fair point, though given that the liquid post which @Brewer Mike might be purchased by someone looking to do the regular style in this thread, I'm hoping we can find a workable solution other than having to buy a new post with a proper diptube.
Get a 1/2" female NPT to 1/4" barb adapter.
^With that, you could easily attach it as a bulkhead directly on the lid, but not be able to use in the cross-configuration....
Sorry, but I'm coming up blank on anything other than getting another liquid post that does include the usual diptube;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostliquid.htmhttps://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/floatingdiptube.htmI'll keep thinking on...maybe someone else had an immediate solve?
 
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