Tubing

[Newsman]

I have not changed the tubing in my kegerator since I got it a few years ago. I also haven't been using it to dispense beer either.
I want to replace the lines. What size ID/OD tubing do I need?
Also, I have a siphon (not sure what brand) that looks a lot like the picture. Anyone know what tubing I need for that?

 

[bobeer]

I'd guess 3/16 ID and 5/16 OD just based on their Amazon ad.

 

[Deadalus]

Auto siphons come in different sizes. A caliper is best but you could use a ruler to perhaps estimate the OD of the cane and select that size for the ID of the tubing. You might be able to find the size of the kegerator tubing printed somewhere on the tubing itself if you are lucky.

 

[Golddiggie]

My beer lines are 3/16" ID, 7/16" OD. Gas lines are 5/16" ID and 9/16" OD. IME, 1/8" wall thickness is the standard for beer and gas lines.

 

[Newsman]

I was afraid it wasn't going to be so simple. *sigh*

 

[tracer bullet]

If you're doing beer and CO2 lines, look into the EVA barrier stuff. Which is its own interesting thing depending on the fittings you use. The duotights seem to work if you don't overtighten them. There's a thread or two around. Maybe search for duotight and go from there, it's not a common term that'll get too many hits.

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm using the Ultra Barrier tubing currently (from MoreBeer).

 

[Deadalus]

Generally the ID on gas and beer lines is what Golddiggie listed because the keg disconnects seem to be mostly standardized. Screw on connections between the line and the disconnect are 1/4 MFL and then a swivel nut is used with the sizes he mentioned. Barbed quick disconnects are also typically those sizes. You can squeeze the 3/16" ID onto the liquid disconnect when the barb is 1/4" by heating up the tubing in hot water. When the ID is perhaps about 1/16" too small that'll work for other sizes too but I find it's better to not be over in regard to the ID of the tube vs. the fitting. You can clamp it down but better to not have too.
But I have seen auto siphons requiring 3/8" and 1/2" ID tubing so better to get that right especially since you won't clamp it. Plus I think the one you linked was 5/16". 1/2" is kind of fat looking. If I hadn't seen that 5/16", I'd have said consider that and decide between 1/2" and 3/8".

 

[Newsman]

Found some tubing I'd bought awhile back that squeezed onto my autosiphon, and the suggestion to look at the existing tubing in the kegerator was a good idea. It's Bevlex 200.
Now for the Kegerator, it appears Bevlex comes in a couple different sizes. Is there any way to see what size it is, based strictly on the printing on the tubing itself?

 

[Deadalus]

Found some tubing I'd bought awhile back that squeezed onto my autosiphon, and the suggestion to look at the existing tubing in the kegerator was a good idea. It's Bevlex 200.
Now for the Kegerator, it appears Bevlex comes in a couple different sizes. Is there any way to see what size it is, based strictly on the printing on the tubing itself?

I don't know if mine is Bevlex 200 but on a piece of Bevlex I have it says 5/16" ID x 9/16" OD printed on the line and it's gas line.

 

[Newsman]

I don't know if mine is Bevlex 200 but on a piece of Bevlex I have it says 5/16" ID x 9/16" OD printed on the line and it's gas line.

Yeah. I'm looking for beverage line. Probably 3/8x5/16, I'm guessing. I'll look at the eva stuff others recommended and compare it with Bevlex. Hell, I may just go down to Lowes and buy some food-grade 3/8 tubing.

 

[Deadalus]

Ah. I have some liquid lines too they are Bevlex 200 and they are 3/16" ID x 7/16" OD, also printed on the side but not every piece I had hanging. Offhand that fits on a picnic tap that I had hanging up and those are 1/4" I believe. You can squeeze that stuff on like I said but you have to let it sit for a little bit in boiling water, it's real thick. I think a minute works. But you could also go to a different type of tubing.

 

[hotbeer]

I was afraid it wasn't going to be so simple. *sigh*

So all this banging on the keyboard to pass messages asking for the answer and then reading through all the replies is simpler than just measuring with a ruler/scale, tape measure or calipers?

I suppose it is more fun and gets you out mixing with others... even if it is virtual.

 

[Newsman]

Well, it looks like I'm going metric. Simi Valley Homebrew has some EVA Beverage line for .50/ft (5mm ID x 8mm OD) with reasonable shipping

So all this banging on the keyboard to pass messages asking for the answer and then reading through all the replies is simpler than just measuring with a ruler/scale, tape measure or calipers?

I suppose it is more fun and gets you out mixing with others... even if it is virtual.

Well, I don't have a rule handy.

 

[Golddiggie]

Well, it looks like I'm going metric. Simi Valley Homebrew has some EVA Beverage line for .50/ft (5mm ID x 8mm OD) with reasonable shipping

Well, I don't have a rule handy.

MoreBeer has the imperial measured tubing as well (bought what I'm currently using from them) with FREE shipping if you hit the minimum (pretty easy to do IME). Granted, they sell in set foot length bundles.

As for not having a rule handy.. WTH dude??
I have a couple of sets of calipers right behind me on a shelf. Tape measure within a few feet of the keezer. Then MORE calipers in the basement/garage area.

BTW, I always go with the MFL QD's for my kegging setup. That way you can easily make gas to liquid post jumpers.

 

[MikeCo]

Well, it looks like I'm going metric. Simi Valley Homebrew has some EVA Beverage line for .50/ft (5mm ID x 8mm OD) with reasonable shipping

If that is EVAbarrier line, get the 4mm ID and you can use shorter lines. I use 6.5 ft of 4mm ID EVAbarrier and get similar pours to what I had when I used 10 feet of 3/16 line.

 

[hottpeper13]

I hear ya Goldi, my brewery is ISO 9000 compliable. If I need to use something it is within arms reach.
Just a thought ,when I upgraded my keg lines(3/16) to EVA I had all 1/4" MFL fittings on them and used them as CO2 lines.

 

[Kharnynb]

if the autosiphon is old enough to need new tubing, there will be enough scratches in the plastic to just spend the 15 bucks for a new one, no point on risking infection on the cold side for that little money.

 

[Newsman]

if the autosiphon is old enough to need new tubing, there will be enough scratches in the plastic to just spend the 15 bucks for a new one, no point on risking infection on the cold side for that little money.

Not that its old. I just didn't rinse it out the last time I used it. You're probably right though. Since I'm cold crashing now, I guess I'll just buy a new one. No reason to be penny wise and pound/dollar foolish

EDIT: just placed an order on Amazon for an autosiphon for under $5 (before taxes.)

 

[Golddiggie]

Not that its old. I just didn't rinse it out the last time I used it. You're probably right though. Since I'm cold crashing now, I guess I'll just buy a new one. No reason to be penny wise and pound/dollar foolish

EDIT: just placed an order on Amazon for an autosiphon for under $5 (before taxes.)

Taxes???
Another reason I like living in NH.
I've not used a siphon (any kind) in ages. CO2 push FTW!

 

[Newsman]

Taxes???
Another reason I like living in NH.
I've not used a siphon (any kind) in ages. CO2 push FTW!

I thought about trying something similar - flood my keg with CO2, and leave the PRV open, hook the output of the siphon to a QD and put it on the "liquid" post. That would pretty much eliminate O2 contamination.

 

[Golddiggie]

I thought about trying something similar - flood my keg with CO2, and leave the PRV open, hook the output of the siphon to a QD and put it on the "liquid" post. That would pretty much eliminate O2 contamination.

Initially I made a cap to go on a PET carboy. Then made kegmenters (sanke keg based) before finally going to conical fermenters. Each step was an improvement on the one before. At this point I can't see going away from conical fermenters.