Trying to decide on some new equipment

[Voyager]

I've lived in a 2 bedroom apartment in LA for the last 5 years, and just moved to Georgia where I now own a nice big home with a basement and a garage. Now that I have some more space, I'd like to move from my 2.5 gal batches to proper 5 gal batches

I've already addressed my biggest need... purchased a fridge and temp controller for fermentation temperature control. I also grabbed a keg and co2 tank/regulator, etc. so I can finally start kegging

Next I need some new equipment to allow 5 gal batches. So I'm trying to decide what I want to do... Should I continue with BIAB, or go to batch or fly sparring? I finally have the space and the cash to buy some quality gear. I'm trying to decide between these options:

1. 1x 10 gal Blichmann Boilermaker with false bottom plus a solid bag for BIAB

2. 2x 10 gal Ss brewtech kettles one with false bottom for a mash tun and boil kettle

3. A Ss brew tech infussion for a mash tun and an Ss brew tech kettle for the boil.

I guess my main questions are:

1. Is fly sparging going to do anything to improve the quality of my beer, or will it just lead to a potential improvement in efficiency? I would plan on batch sparging if I go the BIAB route...

2. Is it worth spending the extra money on an insulated mash tun or is it just as easy to add in a cup or so of boiling water when you need to bump up a degree or two? Or just hit it with heat from the burner?

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

 

[kh54s10]

1) not even sure you need a false bottom with BIAB.
2) I would add a HLT to the mix. Or use a cooler for your mash tun and use one of the kettles for a HLT.
3) I guess the insulated ss mash tun is nice but it is really $$$$$

Fly sparging will mostly increase efficiency.
You can insulate your mash tun by wrapping it in blankets or a sleeping bag. My Rubbermaid water cooler loses only 4-6 degrees in an hour in the dead of winter on my porch.
I would heat carefully with the burner rather than trying to adjust with water.

10 gallons is a nice size for boiling 5 gallon batches. I need 7 gallons to end up with 5 gallons after the boil.

 

[Morrey]

No shortage of discussion on this topic. The simplicity of BIAB appeals to many, especially those who have the desire for fewer pieces of equipment or a smaller footprint. 3V is a beautiful process altho can entail more equipment. Many folks love them both so its a matter of personal preference. Both can make great beer...in my opinion almost on an equal basis.

Your biggest revelation was the purchase of temp controlled gear for fermentation, since you'll need it in GA.

 

[oujens]

Have you checked your brewing space to see if electric may be a possibility? Might factor into your decision. Personally, I would spend money on an electric system with mash recirculation before I would buy an expensive insulated mash tun. You can insulate a kettle with reflectix which will hold temps well. I do this for my single vessel BIAB setup (full volume single infusion), and add a sleeping bag for insurance.

I have found full volume mashing to be just fine. I previously batch sparged and have never had a desire to do fly sparging. Not sure I see the benefits of a fly sparge. Seems way more trouble than its worth, and batch sparging is easier and effective.

 

[Voyager]

1) not even sure you need a false bottom with BIAB.
2) I would add a HLT to the mix. Or use a cooler for your mash tun and use one of the kettles for a HLT.
3) I guess the insulated ss mash tun is nice but it is really $$$$$

1) true... I guess I'm thinking that the bag would mainly be an easy way to get the grain out and start the boil. I guess I'm thinking the false bottom would keep my grain/bag from scorching if/when I hit it with some heat during the mash?

2) for the HLT I was planning on using one of the 5 gal kettles I already have. Would i ever need more than 4 gal or so of sparge water for a 5 gal batch?

3) It is just about an extra $100, I think, since it comes with the false bottom, etc. I guess I'm trying to decide if it is worth it... I'm thinking if I actually use the equipment for the next couple decades it might be??

 

[Kerrbrewer]

I did my first brew today with my new 10 gallon Chapman thermobarrel. It is worth the $$$$ to me. Im tired of all my BIAB beers that ferment all the way to 1.004 or 1.006. My mash today was 154° and only dropped 1° because I stirred. As far as kettles go ive never had a Blichman but I love my Spike kettle.

 

[Voyager]

Have you checked your brewing space to see if electric may be a possibility? Might factor into your decision. Personally, I would spend money on an electric system with mash recirculation before I would buy an expensive insulated mash tun. You can insulate a kettle with reflectix which will hold temps well. I do this for my single vessel BIAB setup (full volume single infusion), and add a sleeping bag for insurance.

You're absolutely right! I need to look into this... Temp control with electric has to be a lot easier than gas... Thanks for reminding me of this option.

 

[Voyager]

I did my first brew today with my new 10 gallon Chapman thermobarrel. It is worth the $$$$ to me. Im tired of all my BIAB beers that ferment all the way to 1.004 or 1.006. My mash today was 154° and only dropped 1° because I stirred. As far as kettles go ive never had a Blichman but I love my Spike kettle.

I looked at those chapmans too... the only reason I thought about going Ss infusion was so it would match the kettle I feel lame even typing that! I've always been more of a function over form guy, but now that I have the space and money I want to have something that looks nice too!

 

[oujens]

You're absolutely right! I need to look into this... Temp control with electric has to be a lot easier than gas... Thanks for reminding me of this option.

Yeah, I'm investigating it myself. I can go induction since I have a an outlet ready, but i keep thinking I want an element but no available outlet in my space. I should add that I have one of the basic SS brewtech kettles and love it. However, they are not setup for an element. Only downside I could find with it.

 

[TX_Brewing]

Biggest suggestion would be to buy a 15gallon boil kettle. Just invade you ever want to do a 10 gallon batch. I never thought I would want to do 10 gallon batches, but am now looking towards doing 2-3 per year to help keep my pipeline full.

 

[Kerrbrewer]

I was really suprised. I put 13 qts of 190° water thinking I needed alot of preheat. It came down to 182° and stayed. I had to stir for like 10 min to get to strike temp. I opened it to get a ph sample at 8 min and it didnt move. Stirred after 20 min and it dropped a degree. I watched some reviews on youtube and went with the Chapman. I bought 2 of their univessel fermenters a couple years ago and like them too. I have one I added a wort chiller/pump to and control the temp in the fifties in my ferment chamber. That way I can have an ale and a lager going at the same time.

 

[Kerrbrewer]

I was really suprised. I put 13 qts of 190° water thinking I needed alot of preheat. It came down to 182° and stayed. I had to stir for like 10 min to get to strike temp. I opened it to get a ph sample at 8 min and it didnt move. Stirred after 20 min and it dropped a degree. I watched some reviews on youtube and went with the Chapman. I bought 2 of their univessel fermenters a couple years ago and like them too. I have one I added a wort chiller/pump to and control the temp in the fifties in my ferment chamber. That way I can have an ale and a lager going at the same time.

 

[kh54s10]

As to the 5 gallon for a HLT: The first recipe that I looked at in my book needed 5.02 gallons for the sparge. So, no, you can not be assured that it will be big enough.

That, and you will have to heat the strike water from room temperature then refill and heat the sparge water from room temperature also. I use a ten gallon with a sight gauge. The first mark on the gauge is 2 gallons so I have to overfill a little to see how much I am using. Sometimes I have to add a little water but it is still hot from the strike when I start heating to sparge. This saves time and propane.

 

[eadavis80]

Yeah, I do BIAB and I just put a steel veggie strainer on the bottom of the kettle to avoid any possibility of scorching the bag (and I doubt it's even necessary as many BIABers don't do this without any problem). So, I would NOT get the false bottom if you go BIAB.