Warthogrugby
Well-Known Member
Hello All,
I'm getting ready to start building up my Keezer and tap system. Being the dedicated engineer that I am I decided to draft everything up just to try to limit as many surprises as possible. I just wanted to get some input just in case I am missing something in either my line of thinking or my approach.
Assuming the picture attachment went through you'll be able to see what my desired design is. If not, here is the breakdown. My man cave has a Marvel comic theme (I'm a huge nerd) and I would like the tower to be Thor's Hammer.
The current plan is to convert a 14.9 cubic foot freezer. I've read about the issues of designing a tower on the lid, so my plan is to build up a 5.5" collar and route my tower out the side vs. the top. The advantages of this will allow me to clean my taps with the lid open, but it means that my length of line outside the freezer is going to be considerably longer... To counter this, I'm planning on using 3/16th Polyethylene line (better taste with a thinner wall section) and snaking it through a copper pipe (ideally .315" ID, but the tolerance may be too tight, so likely .408" ID). I want to try to match in the outer diameter of the PE line as close as I can to the copper to better transfer the heat.
The copper will go as far as I can to the tap spicket without impeding the connection. I'm going to insulate the hell out of the four copper pipes and nest the sub assembly into a 3" PVC pipe. The PVC will be both the hammer handle and the protection for the insulation and routing into the freezer. I'm going to have a 45 degree bend and then mount into the collar. I'm thinking of having about 2 feet of addition copper in the freezer to help with the thermo transfer opposed to trying to design a more compact heat sink.
Does anyone foresee in problems with this sort of construction? Should I have a way to easily access the spickets? Should I also design for disassembly, how often does one need to access all the inner workings of the line routing? My hope is to start building the collar and tower this Wednesday, assuming the fittings come in, and the bar and finishing touches soon after.
Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I'm getting ready to start building up my Keezer and tap system. Being the dedicated engineer that I am I decided to draft everything up just to try to limit as many surprises as possible. I just wanted to get some input just in case I am missing something in either my line of thinking or my approach.
Assuming the picture attachment went through you'll be able to see what my desired design is. If not, here is the breakdown. My man cave has a Marvel comic theme (I'm a huge nerd) and I would like the tower to be Thor's Hammer.
The current plan is to convert a 14.9 cubic foot freezer. I've read about the issues of designing a tower on the lid, so my plan is to build up a 5.5" collar and route my tower out the side vs. the top. The advantages of this will allow me to clean my taps with the lid open, but it means that my length of line outside the freezer is going to be considerably longer... To counter this, I'm planning on using 3/16th Polyethylene line (better taste with a thinner wall section) and snaking it through a copper pipe (ideally .315" ID, but the tolerance may be too tight, so likely .408" ID). I want to try to match in the outer diameter of the PE line as close as I can to the copper to better transfer the heat.
The copper will go as far as I can to the tap spicket without impeding the connection. I'm going to insulate the hell out of the four copper pipes and nest the sub assembly into a 3" PVC pipe. The PVC will be both the hammer handle and the protection for the insulation and routing into the freezer. I'm going to have a 45 degree bend and then mount into the collar. I'm thinking of having about 2 feet of addition copper in the freezer to help with the thermo transfer opposed to trying to design a more compact heat sink.
Does anyone foresee in problems with this sort of construction? Should I have a way to easily access the spickets? Should I also design for disassembly, how often does one need to access all the inner workings of the line routing? My hope is to start building the collar and tower this Wednesday, assuming the fittings come in, and the bar and finishing touches soon after.
Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!