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Trellis Designs?

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That is an awesome design! So, you would allow the top crossbars to slide down the support beams? That is pretty ingeneous. I suppose you could just put some holes in the supports and push some bolts in to hold it up, then remove the bolts at harvest.

Having never grown hops before, I was not sure you would have enough root space growing in containers...do you?

Thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks. Yeah I was thinking a pulley system to raise and lower the top and use a bolt to keep the top up there.

The beds are 2x2x1.5' and I am going to dig them down another foot. My soil is a bit hard so I was planning on double digging it. I am not sure if they are big enough, especially if I need to put two plants in each one. Hopefully some one will chime in.
 
Here is the trellis that I've convinced my wife will look nice.

trellis-full;init:.jpg


She wasn't up for the height so I'll get them up to about 10 feet and then have them grow horizontally.
 
david_42 said:
These are about 14 feet tall with 8 foot 2x4s across the top. I loop the ropes over the ends, so at harvest time I can lower the bines without cutting them. Then I harvest the flowers and let the bines lie until they die. This puts more energy back into the roots for the next year. I expect to see some growth in another two weeks. People around Portland are seeing shoots already, but it's a bit colder in the coastal hills.

Spent the morning cultivating in the gerbilizer and replacing one of the yarns. Still need to move the Sunbeam to a shady spot.

img_0762.jpg

I like this design. I've convinced my wife to let to me build it as a better alternative to growing the bines up the trees. Now all I need to do is choose which varieties to grow.
 
Mine is simple and Cheap

2 -Tomato cages
3 - Electric Fence Posts - 5 or 6' (Like small stop sign posts)
1 - 10' section of 3/4" conduit
3 - Conduit clamps.
1 - Roll of Jute Twin
2 or 3 - Large bags of bark mulch

Plant the rhisomes, put cages on the mounds, stake in three posts. Attach two clamps to the center post and one on the end of the conduit. Run jute twine through the center clamp ~ 30'. Mount conduit- on center post and hoist the post. Tie off the end of the jute twine to the side posts. Then tie three strings from each cage to the jute twin over the cage. Cover with bark mulch. Water, feed and water ....


Very Simple!! - :fro:

Nugget & Cascades at June 6th 2007

3761-HopsJuly72007002.jpg
 
Virtuous said:
Thanks. Yeah I was thinking a pulley system to raise and lower the top and use a bolt to keep the top up there.

The beds are 2x2x1.5' and I am going to dig them down another foot. My soil is a bit hard so I was planning on double digging it. I am not sure if they are big enough, especially if I need to put two plants in each one. Hopefully some one will chime in.

I'd say 2x2' is fine. With that V-shaped line you can train 2 bines up each string or 4 bines per plant per box. Should be plenty. I basically do the same thing with great results.
 
I think I'm going to build a 4x2 planter near the back of my garage. I'll plant 6 rhizomes in the planter 2' apart in a half circle pattern. I'll hang the hop-string from a central point about 20' up the back wall by screwing a big eye-bolt into the garage. This is the west side of my house, but it gets about the most sun of any point I could realistically put a garden. I can also run the hop-string down to an anchor below the eye-bolt like a drawstring for blinds or curtains. This will leave me a little bit of extra garden to plant some chilis or herbs or whatever. I'm thinking I could plant some green onions around the outside. That usually kept my dogs out of the garden when I was growing up. I assume it will work with my current dog.


hopsTrellis.png
 
Did anyone see the letter to the editor in Zymurgy magazine about growing hops on a regular chain-link fence? I think it was last november or december's issue - it was the one with the stouts and dark beers on the cover. The fellow basically said that everything he had read about "standard" hop growing (tall, string trellis, trimming the weaker shoots, etc.), he tried at first. Then, he decided to just use a std. 5 1/2' tall chain link fence, not trim the weaker shoots, no training, etc. There was a picture there of the editor's hop fence, as he said he did the same thing. The editor's fence was around 30' long, I believe. Both guys said there was little change in yield, and the greatest part was being able to tend them and harvest them from the ground. Seems much easier to me! I just wish they would have given some idea of the rhizome spacing.

Definitely gonna be growing some this year...just have to decide on my design. Now, especially after reading that article, I am thinking about just using a standard 5'-6' tall chain link fence (especially since my neighbor does fencing and said I could have a bunch of old stuff). I have a great location w/ tons of room and direct sunlight in an open field.

Things to decide:

I plan on doing 2 or 3 varieties (Cascade, East Kent Golding, and maybe Fuggles), each on their own separate section of fence. I really don't know how long to make each fence section? And then...how many rhizomes per section???

I am thinking about a 20' section for each variety, and maybe 2-3 rhizomes per 20' section....like one each end and one in the middle.

Any thoughts??? Maybe I could go shorter w/ each section....
 
GardenArch.jpg


Had to gussy up my original eye bolt and twine idea--per SWMBO... I've always been one for bare-bones functionality, but this oughta be a nice project for me now that it is warm.

This will go on the East facing side of the house, which faces an empty lot, to break up the monotony.

By the way, Google SketchUp is a badass program.
 
2329652737_0614331720_b.jpg


A work in progress. No new photo's yet but the guy wire systems is nearly complete and I am begining to build the rasied bed box. 12 foot is all I was comfortable with as learned that I have a 3 foot think layer of bedrock a mere 2 foor below grade.
 
Sleepystevenson- the neighbor who offered her "old growth" hops for transplant has hers growing on a chain link fence and the yield is pretty low. This is probably due to the fact that she has the hops growing on the north side of her driveway and they are shaded nearly all the time by her next door neighbor's house. I think the chain link fence works OK- easy to harvest for sure. I'd be interested in your results.

Good growin'

T
 
Mustangj said:
GilaMinumBeer

How are going to string the twine up there?

The old school way. A ladder:D

I am actually torn between running the twine as a vee with 2 foot sacing between at the top or just a single line run skyward.

updated photos:

2337527881_76834eda54.jpg


2338362884_ab3e12d1cc.jpg


2337527763_6f48c85a65.jpg
 
mlee0000 said:
GardenArch.jpg


Had to gussy up my original eye bolt and twine idea--per SWMBO... I've always been one for bare-bones functionality, but this oughta be a nice project for me now that it is warm.

This will go on the East facing side of the house, which faces an empty lot, to break up the monotony.

By the way, Google SketchUp is a badass program.

That's a nice looking design.
 
How much hang weight is there to contend with? Or do the plants support their weight pretty well and just use the string for direction?
 
I plan to attach mine to the eaves supported by shorter poles so they can grow up then over my uncovered front porch. Kind of creating an arbor.
 
mlee0000 said:
GardenArch.jpg


Had to gussy up my original eye bolt and twine idea--per SWMBO... I've always been one for bare-bones functionality, but this oughta be a nice project for me now that it is warm.

This will go on the East facing side of the house, which faces an empty lot, to break up the monotony.

By the way, Google SketchUp is a badass program.

I really like this Idea!!! I don't think I could get it completed before I get my Rhizomes and need to plant them though.
 
So you all have me slightly confused. I have 4 plants planted 3-4 feet on center. For the past 2 years i have grown them on a horizontal system that is like 5 feet tall. They grow like they are being fed meth. I have never trimmed any vines back. Each plant grows about 20-30 vines and they all cover the trellice to the point where you dont see any trellice any more.

So if i trim all vines back except for 2-4 per plant then i will have better hop production? It seems that I have alot of cones with out trimming back any vines. I will however on everyones advice trim them back substantially. Any other input?
 
trellis.jpg


Picture quality is horrible, it was from my phone.

15ft high of 3/4" rigid conduit, hose clamped to a 7" T-Post. on the Cross bar I drilled holes and put in eye bolts to prestring it before raising. (used sisel twine).
 
Ahammer, when the bines are left to run wild, the plant puts more energy into making more leaves and bines. Then when it's time for making hop cones, there's more overhead having to deal with keeping the leaves and bines healthy. When there's less bines, the plant decides to put energy into making cones so it'll put out more. If you get plenty of cones and they look nice growing up the trellis, then you can just let it grow wild as-is.

For first season rhizomes though, I wouldn't worry about trimming them back. The first year is more for estabishing a root system anyways.
 
I'm a first year grower and I was planning on building a trellis that was somewhat like a volleyball net, but with the net extending to the ground almost. I'm planning on putting 1 plant at either end of my nets. I'm going to have PVC pipe that's 7' high and probably 8' across. I'm (attempting) growing 2 different types of hops, so I'll have 2 net setups. I'll post pictures once construction really gets underway.
 
Here is what I did. All items available at lowes.

1) 20 Gallon Maccourt Plantainer from Lowes- $19.97 locally

2) Lehigh Green vinyl covered wire clothesline approx $6.00

3) 10 feet 3/4" electrical conduit $4.00

4) Electrical conduit compression connecter $1.00

5) Conduit connectors bag of 5 $3.00

6) 2- 1/8" Wire rope clamps- $0.40

7) 1X3X25 1/2" board with center drilled hole.

8) Plastic Drinking straw.

a) Drilled hole in the center of the pot and installed the electrical conduit compression connector using the washer on the back to hold it on.

b) Added 3 foot section of pipe to the 10 foot section using the connector (#5) for a total height of 13 feet.

c) Drilled hole through the pipe near the top and glued a piece of drinking straw in, as a rope guide/slide.

d) Screwed board to sides of the pot with center hole to support the pole.

e) Attached green line on sides of pot, secured with wire rope clips.

Total cost approximately $30.00 per pot, making 3.

The end result below.

100_5851.jpg
 
a couple of ???'s for those who asked. the hop bines will weigh up to 100# so youll need to plan for that.
also yes you can train 1 plant to grow up 2 twines. that is what a lot of the commercial hop growers do its called the classic "V" design you can end up doubling your crop once the root structure is well established.
JJ
 
I purchased all items at Menards. 1/4" CPVC and connecting hardware using PVC primer and cement.

(click on the thumbnail for a larger picture)




 
gruversm said:
I purchased all items at Menards. 1/4" CPVC and connecting hardware using PVC primer and cement.

(click on the thumbnail for a larger picture)





WOW!!! No snow.
 
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