To Party Gyle or Not to Party Gyle... that is the question

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dallasdb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Messages
1,494
Reaction score
148
Location
Aurora, Colorado
Okay so I'm brewing 10 gallons of IPA and I was thinking of doing a Party Gyle.

I'd like to get another 5 gallon batch of whatever is left after I batch sparge for the 10 gal IPA.

Here is the recipe:

All Grain Recipe - IPA: 1.063/1.010 (10 Gal)
Grain Bill

26 lbs. - 2 Row Pale Malt
1 lb. - Crystal Malt (10L)
1 lb. - Crystal Malt (20L)
Hop Schedule

2 oz - Magnum (75 Min.)
2 oz - Centennial - at Flameout
4 oz - Centennial - Dry Hop in secondary
Yeast

US-05

Mash/Sparge/Boil

Mash at 150° to 152° for 60 min.
Batch Sparge
Boil for 75 minutes
Cool and ferment at 66° to 68°


So my question is, does anybody have any idea if doing a party gyle would work with this?

I figure it's a 10 gallon recipe/grain bill, I would imagine I could get a low ABV 5 gal batch out of the leftover mash?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be awesome.

Side note: I'm not really looking for any particular style for the party gyle, just experiment with some hops I have and see how it turns out.

Thanks!
 
go for it! what's the harm in experimenting. use some leftover hops and some harvested yeast if you have it. If you have a refractometer, I would take a pre-boil gravity reading after your sparge to get a better idea of how much bittering you will need from the hops
 
If you can, fly sparge. I party gyle whenever I brew a high gravity beer & for mine it's the best way to do it. Also, if the seconds aren't that high in gravity you can either boil it down and have a smaller batch or throw in some extract &/or sugar to boost the beer up.
 
As the recipe stands, off a 1.063 batch you won't get much. If your efficiency is in the 75% range, you will be lucky to sparge out anything in the 1.015 range after running out the main batch. You could either boil down a few hours to get some decent gravity or top up with some extract.

...or you could add a few more pounds of grain, run off a higher gravity first runnings and second runnings into 2 separate kettles or buckets, then dilute the big wort with straight water or blend the 2 runnings to get the desired gravities in each kettle.
 
I did this with my last Barley Wine, it worked well.... but the story is a bit longer.
I screwed up the Barley Wine by adding to much Clove (learned a lesson here) made the lips numb just sipping it ha ha. Was thinking... dump it? The Small beer (Party Gyle) kind of turned out tasteless and way low ABV of course, was bummed about the tastelessness but figured I'd drink it anyway. Then the light bulb flickered on and I mixed half the nasty Barley Wine with the tasteless Small Beer (Party Gyle) and Voila!!! A half way decent beer!!! There are some that are even impressed with the beer. lol
 
freewheelan said:
If you can, fly sparge. I party gyle whenever I brew a high gravity beer & for mine it's the best way to do it. Also, if the seconds aren't that high in gravity you can either boil it down and have a smaller batch or throw in some extract &/or sugar to boost the beer up.

I don't have the proper setup to fly sparge right now but I am thinking of adding some DME and experimenting with brown sugar or dark candi syrup.

What other misc ingredients could be added to the boil to bring up gravity?
 
gbx said:
...or you could add a few more pounds of grain, run off a higher gravity first runnings and second runnings into 2 separate kettles or buckets, then dilute the big wort with straight water or blend the 2 runnings to get the desired gravities in each kettle.

Thanks for the reply! I like your suggestion but for this batch (I'm pressed for time as it is) that's a little more work than I'm looking to put in!
 
worksnorth said:
I did this with my last Barley Wine, it worked well.... but the story is a bit longer.
I screwed up the Barley Wine by adding to much Clove (learned a lesson here) made the lips numb just sipping it ha ha. Was thinking... dump it? The Small beer (Party Gyle) kind of turned out tasteless and way low ABV of course, was bummed about the tastelessness but figured I'd drink it anyway. Then the light bulb flickered on and I mixed half the nasty Barley Wine with the tasteless Small Beer (Party Gyle) and Voila!!! A half way decent beer!!! There are some that are even impressed with the beer. lol

That's a cool story! Good thing you Party Gyled!
 
So from your replies it seems that I could basically brew as normal for the first 10 gal batch and resparge for the party gyle brew, treat that almost like steeping grains and add DME or LME to get a decent gravity.
 
I read a Brew you Own article on Partigyle (google it). The thing I found interesting was that about half the gravity came out of the first third of the batch volume, then the other half was in the second two-thirds of volume. So judging from this, let's say your grain bill is for a 10 gal. batch. He's saying basically the strong beer would be the first 3.5 gallons of runnings, the small beer would be the final 6.5 gallons. That way even your small beer has a reasonable gravity to start with. I realize this doesn't match your plans exactly, but it was an interesting way of thinking about it.

[Edit] Here it is, it's not BYO after all:

http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.2/mosher.html
 
I read a Brew you Own article on Partigyle (google it). The thing I found interesting was that about half the gravity came out of the first third of the batch volume, then the other half was in the second two-thirds of volume. So judging from this, let's say your grain bill is for a 10 gal. batch. He's saying basically the strong beer would be the first 3.5 gallons of runnings, the small beer would be the final 6.5 gallons. That way even your small beer has a reasonable gravity to start with. I realize this doesn't match your plans exactly, but it was an interesting way of thinking about it.

[Edit] Here it is, it's not BYO after all:

http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.2/mosher.html

Dbrewski, is right. Your first runnings, when batch sparging, would be the xxx beer. The second runnings would be the xx beer. If you started with a large enough grain bill, you're third runnings would be your x beer.

I don't have two kettles to run simultaneously, so I remember making a russian imperial stout and oatmeal stout back to back took up most of my Saturday. In my case I added flaked oats the mash after my first runnings.

Running a full batch off your grains and then sparging them again for a lightly colored, tasteless, < 1.010 beer is just gonna result in a tanniny beer. Even if you top off with DME.
 
Running a full batch off your grains and then sparging them again for a lightly colored, tasteless, < 1.010 beer is just gonna result in a tanniny beer. Even if you top off with DME.

Agreed with this but I disagree with adding oats...i wouldn't want to add a must-mash adjunct that late, especially in a pale ale. I often add fresh crystal or only mash the base malt and steep the specialty grains for both batches on the stove so I can do 2 completely different beers.

I like the blending method over adding extract but it requires an extra kettle or at least a couple of buckets to run wort out into. The proper traditional way was to blend after boiling or in some cases after fermentation....i haven't tried that way. The way i usually do it is if i have a 1.065 big beer that needs 13lbs of grain and a 1.035 small beer that would need 7 pounds of grain, I will mash 20lbs of grain plus a lb or 2 to make up for the lost efficiency in a bigger mash. My first runnings will be in the 1.085 range, the second runnings will be in the 1.016 range (both run into seperate plastic buckets) and I will calculate the blending ratio to get 1.065 in the big beer kettle and 1.035 in the small beer kettle. (you need a refractometer and some basic math skills).

It takes a long long time if you have only one boil kettle. I bought a second turkey burner so I can boil both side by side but before I had the second burner, I would do only a half batch of the small beer on the stove and the big beer outside on the gas burner....but chilling the wort is the bottle neck as I only have 1 chiller.
 
Back
Top