• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wiped this up today. Is the wart usually real foamy? Purity much had the carboy to the brim with foam. After O2 and poring in the starter I had a bit of a mess.
I'm thinking it's going to need a blow off tube. Maybe the hops cause the foam?
image.jpg1_zps639jzodu.jpg
 
This beer is all about the hops. The malt is in there, but buried under a half pound of hops.

nah. this beer is is just as much about the malt and yeast as it is the hops. it's only 81% base malt with strong specialty malts. and lets be honest, nobody has ever accused an english yeast of being very hop forward.

imho, the hops are the only thing pulling this beer together; which they do quite gracefully
 
I don't usually get this much foam. I gravity drain the boil kettle through a counter flow chiller into the carboy. Just the dribbling had foam to the top. Just was wondering if there was a reason. Makes it hard to aerate. Foam wasn't disappearing so I just proceeded with o2 and yeast and rinsed it off after.
 
My 5th shot at this. Personally, I prefer to bitter w motueka and finish with a little galaxy. This time, I tried my first attempt at a hop stand/whirlpool. Missed gravity by way too much. Ended at 1.052. I became preoccupied during the sparge and added too much. Had no DME on hand to make up the difference. So, I tossed the bottom gallon and a majority of the hop trub into a growler. Just to see what would happen! Who needs a blow off 😂

View attachment 1440641727101.jpg
 
Next time you end up with way too much wort from your sparge, boil the wort until you reach your desired pre-boil volume and/or gravity (taking into account that wort expands when heated), and THEN start your countdown timer and toss in your bittering hops.

Likewise, if your boil is a bit too vigorous, and you end up with too little wort after flameout, add water until you get to your desired post-boil volume and/or gravity. As long as the resulting wort is 161F degrees or warmer for at least 15 seconds, it'll Pasteurize the added water.
 
I drank a bottled conditioned undry hopped version and was amazed how much I detected the melandion malt. Same batch after dry hopping and keg conditioning I did not detect it.

I just made a version with half citra half amarillio, BTW. Excited for it to finish
 
Man.....That sounds good. I LOVE AZACCA! I think I'll brew this up using Azacca and brett trois. Going to have to raise the mash temp, as brett attenuates more.


You planning to use WLP644? If so, it's not Brett. Was recently determined it is actually Sach. I used it for this before, but added some Mosaic, it finished around 1.008-1.010 mashing around 150.
 
I just brewed this today. Takes forever to chill the wort down in the summer, but enough griping...

Question on the dry hop. The last couple brews I've made, I added some hops to the keg just before putting it in the kegerator and carbing. Anyone else do that with this brew? I'm wondering if I should do the 3 oz for 5-7 days before kegging, then add some additional in the keg, or break up the 3 oz and do some before kegging and some after? Or does dry hopping with 3 oz prior to kegging (or bottling) result in a nice hop aroma that doesn't fade after a month or so? Thoughts?
 
Likewise, if your boil is a bit too vigorous, and you end up with too little wort after flameout, add water until you get to your desired post-boil volume and/or gravity. As long as the resulting wort is 161F degrees or warmer for at least 15 seconds, it'll Pasteurize the added water.

I've read that your bitterness level won't be as high as you wanted when you over-boil and then add water to get to the proper post-boil gravity. Is this right?
 
Okay, okay. Lol Settle down. ...no one likes a mean drunk. Lol yeah, using 644. I really like it....even though I received information it's actually a sach. Oh well. ..gets me drunk. Lol
 
I am thinking about eliminating the fw hop addition, in favor of a whirlpool addition. Or, maybe just adding a whirlpool to the original schedule. I dunno yet.
 
+1 on whirlpooling my last one of this recipe was hop shot for bittering then I whirlpooled all of my hops post boil for 170degree hopstand. It was phenomenal.
 
Brewing a 12 gallon batch of this on Monday. I plan to split the batch like bertusbrewery did. I'm going to ferment one with 1968 and the other with WLP002. I'm also going to dry hop one with Citra and the other with Mosaic/Simcoe (I may throw a little Simcoe in both). I haven't decided which yeast to put with which dry hop yet, so any suggestions would be great.

This will be my first 12 gallon batch as I typically do 5-6 gallons.
 
Brewing a 12 gallon batch of this on Monday. I plan to split the batch like bertusbrewery did. I'm going to ferment one with 1968 and the other with WLP002. I'm also going to dry hop one with Citra and the other with Mosaic/Simcoe (I may throw a little Simcoe in both). I haven't decided which yeast to put with which dry hop yet, so any suggestions would be great.

This will be my first 12 gallon batch as I typically do 5-6 gallons.

I would go with 1968/Citra since that is the original recipe (And it is a dead on clone)
 
Got an interesting one for you guys / gals. I kinda run a parti-gyle mash. Brewed a modified version of the OP’s recipe. Main recipe changes are preference substitutes, Maris Otter vs. US 2-row and I also made a small hop addition, mash addition at sparge vs. FWH, using the grain bed as filter.

The first runnings go to a 6-gallons batch size clear beer.

Second runnings went to a 1-gallon batch (1.049 post-boil gravity), which I co-pitched 3724 (Belgian Saison) and 3763 (Roeselare Ale Blend). I’ll let you know how it turns out in 12 to 18 months haha.
 
I've brewed this beer a couple of times in the past and have been very pleased with it.

After a month or two I did another batch with a combo of citra/mosaic, US-04 yeast as before. It finished at 1.012, everything went well but it tastes very sweet to me. Almost cloying.

I'm wondering if others would describe this beer as sweet, or maybe my palate has just changed in the last while to prefer bone dry IPAs with a more simple malt profile?
 
I've read that your bitterness level won't be as high as you wanted when you over-boil and then add water to get to the proper post-boil gravity. Is this right?

I'm not talking about watering down your beer.

I'm talking about starting with 7 gallons pre-boil, but ending up with only 5.5 gallons post-boil because you boiled off too much water. So you add a half gallon to get you to the recipe's 6 gallons post-boil.
 
I'm not talking about watering down your beer.

I'm talking about starting with 7 gallons pre-boil, but ending up with only 5.5 gallons post-boil because you boiled off too much water. So you add a half gallon to get you to the recipe's 6 gallons post-boil.

I understand that you are only adding enough water to get back to the proper post-boil volume. But I thought I have heard that by adding water after you have boiled the hops will result in a beer with lower IBUs than if you were to properly hit your post-boil volume the first time. Hopefully a couple others can confirm one side or the other.

I guess either way, in general shouldn't we be shooting for the proper post-boil gravity instead of volume?
 
Back
Top