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American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

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What do you guys think I could do?

Buy a half pound of Melanoidin and Aromatic. It's like...$4 :) - If you get a whole pound of each, you can add the other half to your next beer and see how you like it.
 
Buy a half pound of Melanoidin and Aromatic. It's like...$4 :) - If you get a whole pound of each, you can add the other half to your next beer and see how you like it.

I don't have a good local store, so I have to get everything mail order. It costs a lot in shipping because there isn't even a good mail order company in my country. One company exists, but it's not a good one. I have to order from Germany or Belgium. I'll order some the next time I do a big bulk order.
 
I usually set the time to 20min for FWH since it is a "smoother bitterness", and people liken it to a 20 min addition.

Does your software estimate FWH?

I've been using TastyBrew.com recipe calculator for years on my recipes and it has a pretty good estimate for FWH. You can experiment with it by changing 60 min boil to FWH, etc.

But I have heard most folks say the 'perceived' bitterness from FWH is like a 20 minute hop addition. I find the target IBU important especially if planning FWH as the main bittering hop in a beer. I usually focus on this "60 minute hop" IBU to set the balance for the beer. 10-20 malty, 20-30 balance, 30-40 pale ale, slight bitter IPA, 40+ IBU, IPA's and highOG.

The Zombie Dust is focused on just enough "60 minute" bitterness to balance the rich malt (from specialty grains and yeast) in this beer. Cool part is you can get that with FWH and the bonus of '
'perceived smoothness' of FWH. Good stuff.

~Adam
 
okay, I did a quick search of this thread and didn't find any hits so I apologize if this is redundant: Did you find you need a diacetyl rest with the 1968 for this? In looking at the Wyeast book they recommend one for 1968. I've never used a yeast that needed one, but I'd rather ask a dumb question than assume the answer.
 
Re: diacetyl in Wyeast 1968

If you pitch a healthy starter and keep your temps in check; it would be unlikely you need a diacetyl rest. To be safe, pull a sample on day 6 or so. If its buttery, run your ferm temp up to 70 and give it a few days. The nice thing about diacetyl is that it is easy to detect and clean up.
 
okay, I did a quick search of this thread and didn't find any hits so I apologize if this is redundant: Did you find you need a diacetyl rest with the 1968 for this? In looking at the Wyeast book they recommend one for 1968. I've never used a yeast that needed one, but I'd rather ask a dumb question than assume the answer.

As a general practice I always raise the temp 2-3 degrees as fermentation slows down. Typically with 002/1968 I'll pitch around 62-63* and ferment at 66* (so within 24 hours its usually there) and as fermentation slows down (typically indicated by krausen dropping) I'll raise the temp 1 degree per day until I hit 68-69*.

That is essentially what Firestone Walker does with their house strain that is close to the Fullers strain (according to their head brewer). I've had good results with that so I've used that for most of the beers I brew with this strain (which is a lot). I have had diacetyl issues when I've rushed beer into kegs with this yeast, but not since I started doing the ramped up fermentation temp.
 
Thanks Jammin & AnchorBock. I didn't see a problem with adding a diacetyl rest at the end so I'll add this to my technique as a belt and suspenders approach.
 
The D-rest doesn't hurt, but I've found if you maintain a constant temperature and give the yeast enough time in the beer, it will clean up.

I kegged a Black IPA (1.065) with WY1968 yesterday, it was 13 days in the fermenter at 64F. No diacetyl at all. (I used oxygen stone and nutrient, fwiw)

I think people may find diacetyl in the beer because they see how fast it ferments and pull the beer of the yeast too soon!
 
Putting together the recipe. Can I get a consensus on the mash time and temp.

Thanks,

Sheldon

I used 148-149F about 75 minutes for my beer and thought it was good. If you want slightly more body or a smidge of sweetness, go above 150F.

~Adam
 
Mine is about to go into the keg. Got a fresh one the other day for a side by side.

392988_2573538834707_1733540644_n.jpg
 
I brewed this tonight, biab and I came in low at 1.051 og. It smelled unbelievable before pitching. Might be a little less alcohol than the original, but I'm pumped. I'll update in 1 month! Thanks for the recipie! I haven't tried the original zombie dust, it's impossible to find in Ohio right now.
 
I brewed a batch 2/2/13 and was so happy that nothing went wrong during the day (spills, burns, leaks, etc) that I was watching the air pump bubble away as I realized... I forgot to get an OG. :eek:
Oh well. Not that ABV matters, but it would have been nice to see if sparge technique revisions improved my mash efficiency.
If it tastes anywhere near as good as it smelled this will go in the "brew again" folder.
 
Put together a partial over the weekend, super excited about it.

It's not normal to throw $18 worth of hops in a 5 gallon batch of beer, but on meth it is
 
I live in NC and have tried to get some zombie dust to try, I found out you camnt get it unless you live closer to the brewery. Anyone know of a place to order it?
 
I would try and use the trading section and see if you can offer up something that you have down there that we don't have up here.
 
in the Home Brew Market, right below the recipe database on the main forum page. It's under "sampling and critiquing"
 
I just bought ingredients for this and the AA for the citra was 14.1. When I plugged the OP recipe with this hop info into Beersmith it gave me an IBU of 94.5! What's the IBU range for this brew?
 
Blackhawkbrew said:
I just bought ingredients for this and the AA for the citra was 14.1. When I plugged the OP recipe with this hop info into Beersmith it gave me an IBU of 94.5! What's the IBU range for this brew?

Did you calculate the FWH as a 20 min addition or 60?
 
Blackhawkbrew said:
Beersmith has a FWH selection when adding hops to the recipe so I just used that option.

If you double click it you can change the time. Doing 20 min more accurately reflects the actual (perceived) bitterness.
 
Batch Size: 6 gallons
Estimated Original Gravity: 1.065
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.018
Estimated Color: 8.5 SRM
Bitterness: 65.9 IBU
Mash Temp: 155 F

...

Here is the extract/PM conversion:

Batch Size: 5g
Boil Volume: 3g

6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 %
1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.8 %
0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 %
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (60 min) Hops 25.1 IBU
0.75 oz Citra [12.40%] (First Wort Hop) Hops 12.5 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (15 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (10 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (5 min) Hops 5.0 IBU
1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (1 min) Hops 1.1 IBU
3.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops -

...

First, let me say I'm really looking forward to trying this recipe this spring!

A question re: the extract recipe, would you need a bit more than 6lbs DME to get an OG of 1.065? Punching this into TastyBrew (5lb batch, all grains set to "steep" rather than "mash") I got 1.059 OG with 6lbs DME, and had to step up to 6.6lb DME to get up to 1.065 OG. Maybe this just reflects different assumptions b/w TastyBrew and BrewSmith re: sugar extraction from steeped grains, but would be interesting to know if extract brewers are able to hit 1.065 OG using the 6lbs DME.
 
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