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one i watched did tell me the complicated contraption with all the pins was removable....maybe i should search HBT for how to wire a motor for a mill? thanks for the idea!
This is losely brewing related, but a question.
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one i watched did tell me the complicated contraption with all the pins was removable....maybe i should search HBT for how to wire a motor for a mill? thanks for the idea!
@bracconiere I'll try to help you but no warranty expressed or implied. Lets start out and take the wires that cane off the motor in the first place and kinda place them by the motor. With the age of the unit, the wires might have a "memory" of their layout.
There should be a black, purple, brown/yellow, pink, and red wire.
The black & purple wires are one side of line the just go to and from the motor ("motor switch") on the wire diag and should not be needed for your use. They are 1 side of the line (L2) used only for the heat coils. They would go to "M1" and "M2" on the motor. (prevents power to the heat coils if the motor is not spinning) My guess would be the bottom two motor terminals.
The brown/yellow comes thru the door switch to the motor and is LN, or neutral. I should go to "M4" on the motor. I can't see any #'s on the motor terminals but my guess is the terminal that the orange wire on the motor is M4 because I'm also guessing the little thing with the orange & red is the motor thermal overload.
The red & pink wires may be piggy backed and belong on "M5", these are the 120v power or "L1". Thinking it would be connected to where the blue motor wire is.
At bare minimum your 120v legs should be on M4 & M5.
Hope this makes some sense and gets you a little closer.
Cheers and good luck, 
Joel B.
There should be a black, purple, brown/yellow, pink, and red wire.
The black & purple wires are one side of line the just go to and from the motor ("motor switch") on the wire diag and should not be needed for your use. They are 1 side of the line (L2) used only for the heat coils. They would go to "M1" and "M2" on the motor. (prevents power to the heat coils if the motor is not spinning) My guess would be the bottom two motor terminals.
The brown/yellow comes thru the door switch to the motor and is LN, or neutral. I should go to "M4" on the motor. I can't see any #'s on the motor terminals but my guess is the terminal that the orange wire on the motor is M4 because I'm also guessing the little thing with the orange & red is the motor thermal overload.
The red & pink wires may be piggy backed and belong on "M5", these are the 120v power or "L1". Thinking it would be connected to where the blue motor wire is.
At bare minimum your 120v legs should be on M4 & M5.
Hope this makes some sense and gets you a little closer.
Cheers and good luck,
Joel B.
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i'm looking at the switch i pulled out, it's labeled 5-4-6-1-2...i get continuity over 4 & 6? any help, to help me out? 
the switch actually has moving parts so i think it's needed in the motor?
no it's 5 & 6....
i'm think hook hot to both 5 & 6 , then neutral to 1? are these motor numbered standardly? maybe just different positions? knowing that would help me google....
the switch actually has moving parts so i think it's needed in the motor?no it's 5 & 6....
i'm think hook hot to both 5 & 6 , then neutral to 1? are these motor numbered standardly? maybe just different positions? knowing that would help me google....
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@bracconiere Yes that switch/junction block must be used as it contains the centrifugal switch that cuts out the start windings out when the motor gets up to speed. Put it back in just as it came out, hopefully nothing fell out of place when you removed it.
As I said in my other post you want terminal 4 & 5. You should be able to hook up your 120v power to those. Position #5 should be the "hot" side of your 120v and the #4 the neutral. Your motor should spin up and run like that.
If it runs, watch and smell and if it smokes or smells "hot" disconnect it of course. What that would indicate is the centrifugal switch is not opening up the start windings as it should. You can test that by when it is running, carefully check for continuity between term #1 & #2. You should have continuity when running but not if the motor isn't spinning.
Waiting with baited breadth,
Joel B.
As I said in my other post you want terminal 4 & 5. You should be able to hook up your 120v power to those. Position #5 should be the "hot" side of your 120v and the #4 the neutral. Your motor should spin up and run like that.
If it runs, watch and smell and if it smokes or smells "hot" disconnect it of course. What that would indicate is the centrifugal switch is not opening up the start windings as it should. You can test that by when it is running, carefully check for continuity between term #1 & #2. You should have continuity when running but not if the motor isn't spinning.
Waiting with baited breadth,
Joel B.
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thankfully i have a picture to remind me where the three wires go!
(before i took it out, the terminals numbers were hidden behind sheet metal.)
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@kartracer2 i was just testing terminal 1 & 2....it acts kinda like it a cap or something? is this correct? because i get continuity with out them hooked up but, like only after it kinda charges up from the multi meter?
(adding before an edit...pluged it in and i got the beggings of a working deculmer! it hummed and didn't blow up! i was tempted to give it a push to see if it took off, but didn't have the cahoneys...)
(adding before an edit...pluged it in and i got the beggings of a working deculmer! it hummed and didn't blow up! i was tempted to give it a push to see if it took off, but didn't have the cahoneys...)
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@kartracer2 well man, i sorta grew some courage....got the plug close enough to the dryer where i could spin it by hand immediatly after pluging it in, and wonderful human being! it took off spinning! so now the question would be why does it just humm without a nudge?
and @hout17 i hope you're proud of me man! lol
and @hout17 i hope you're proud of me man!
lol
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would that little black thing at the bottom be the start cap, and need to be in series like it used to be?
so i'd want my black a/c wire to go to it, then put it's pink one where the black one is now?
so i'd want my black a/c wire to go to it, then put it's pink one where the black one is now?
So you are saying the motor will run if you get it spinning by hand but not start by it's self? Well it sounds like the start windings are "open", or somehow not connected as they should be. There is no cap in this motor, it gets a starting boost from the start windings.
Joel B.
Joel B.
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yeah i gave the drum a push, and it started spinning just fine. without a push the motor just humms....there is a third wire that goes into the motor that's not connected to anything? 5-4 pins were the top two in my pic, that black one is just not connected to anything right now.....
you say "open" which concerns me, because as it stands now i could use it with a nudge for deculming...would that be a bad thing?
That black wire must be going to the start windings.
Make sure the motor frame is grounded.
If you are brave get you tester close and ready to check for AC voltage.
Plug in your cord and as the motor hums check for 120v at the black wire with the other tester probe on the grounded motor frame. Do this carefully and quickly.
Then give the motor a spin to get it running and check again.
Humming should = 102v. Running should = 0.
We'll go from there next.
Joel B.
Make sure the motor frame is grounded.
If you are brave get you tester close and ready to check for AC voltage.
Plug in your cord and as the motor hums check for 120v at the black wire with the other tester probe on the grounded motor frame. Do this carefully and quickly.
Then give the motor a spin to get it running and check again.
Humming should = 102v. Running should = 0.
We'll go from there next.
Joel B.
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nope, i think i want to back pedal on that..the motor is NOT grounded....would that be it?
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no i'm not...but if the cause is just, i'm prepared to lay down my life...and i really want an automatic deculmer! lol
No that's not the problem. We just need a common ground/neutral for the testing.
I want to refine that test.
Remove the black wire from it's terminal and do the test just on the terminal with out the black wire on it. That will tell us if the start winding is getting voltage. Put a piece of Electrical tape on the end of the black wire to be safe.
Joel B.
I want to refine that test.
Remove the black wire from it's terminal and do the test just on the terminal with out the black wire on it. That will tell us if the start winding is getting voltage. Put a piece of Electrical tape on the end of the black wire to be safe.
Joel B.
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well, i taped up the black wire, checked the terminal, one probe on the motor frame, the other on the terminal 0 Volts, both humming and spinning.....
OK, that's good and bad. What it tells me is for some reason the start winding switch is not feeding power to the black wire when it should. (during startup, that's the bad). The only good thing is that the winding itself is probably OK.
Hold on a min and let me think about what to try next
Joel B.
Hold on a min and let me think about what to try next
Joel B.
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i saw someone wire u[p a dryer motor for a DIY project, and they jumped it? (and i'm still alive BTW
)and i'm still curious if it's safe to just give a nudge when i need to use and let it run that way for about 20-30 minutes?
Ha Ha so far so good then.
I have another idea if your feeling kinda brave.
Jumping it is what I'm thinking about.
Be careful here as **** could get real.
Take the tape off the black wire. with the motor humming touch the black wire end to the blue wire end firmly as you can. That should put power to the start windings and the motor should spin up and run.
Pull the black wire off as soon as it spins up.
If it starts and runs that way we know the start switch is the culprit. and need to work around that.
Joel B.
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you know, i think i have a toggle switch laying around
and some wire i can tape to both....i like that better...it's dark here though, and my light in the dinning room where this thing is sitting right now is dim.... but the nights young!
(what about just hooking the black wire to the blue terminal, and see if it starts spinning? the only reason it shuts off is because prolonged running gets it hot right?)
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Not the worst plan.
I have several jumper wires in my tool bag that used when I did more of this kind of trouble shooting. Made it easy to check things out/by-pass when things had only mechanical switches and timers. I'm not saying electronics are bad, just harder sneak around to find problems.
Remember it just beer stuff. Although very important, it's not worth life or limb. I'll be around too, take your time to do it safe.
Cheers,
Joel B.
I have several jumper wires in my tool bag that used when I did more of this kind of trouble shooting. Made it easy to check things out/by-pass when things had only mechanical switches and timers. I'm not saying electronics are bad, just harder sneak around to find problems.
Remember it just beer stuff. Although very important, it's not worth life or limb. I'll be around too, take your time to do it safe.
Cheers,
Joel B.
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if it wasn't for homebrew....well, i'd be a lot worse off....too bad my silicon oven mitten is a four fingered thing, i gave it a test try, not dexterious enough...
and i REALLY appreciate the help BTW!
you've actually almost making glad i think i got ripped off on a $200 compact dryer, which i should get my money back for, and i just had to weedeat someone's yard for an hour for this dryer!
No problem, I've MacGyvered lot's of things in my life. Some times it was because of something was outdated, sometimes because I was broke, sometimes because of over priced items. I'm a pack rat also. I've scraped out washers and dryers saving pulleys springs, micro switches, wiring etc. My last two moves thinned out a lot of the junk but i still have a box full of stuff waiting for their day to save the world. or at least my day (LOL).
Any way, once we make sure the start wining is good we can make this thing work like you want it to, at least electrically.
Cheers,
Joel B.
Any way, once we make sure the start wining is good we can make this thing work like you want it to, at least electrically.
Cheers,
Joel B.
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and everyone else gives me a hard time for trying to find affordable yeast! lol
and you didn't answer my question....is it safe to just replace the "start winding" with elbow grease? to me as long as it isn't going to burn down the house, it's functional the way it is.....but it would be nice to flick a switch....
Yeah, I suppose so. The thermal overload will give it some protection/safety and that's still wired in.
It's up to you I guess, I'm not the one using it. You are the only one that will use it RIGHT?
Cheers,
Joel B.
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are you kidding me man? i gotta pay for my drinking! i plan on having neighborhood parties where everyone gets to spin it, and pick the winning barley kernel! lol, with HBT help, i'm sure i'll figure out a way to label some!
@bracconiere :
No warranty expressed or implied on item discussed. Techniques used were for educational use/purpose only. Any safety measures circumvented are solely the responsibility of the owner of said device.
There I said it, as useless a statement as it is.
I hope it works like you want it to, glad to be of service ol'buddy.
May your days of deculming be happy ones!
Cheers,
Joel B.
No warranty expressed or implied on item discussed. Techniques used were for educational use/purpose only. Any safety measures circumvented are solely the responsibility of the owner of said device.
There I said it, as useless a statement as it is.
I hope it works like you want it to, glad to be of service ol'buddy.
May your days of deculming be happy ones!
Cheers,
Joel B.
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well, i pulled the probe off my multi-meter, and taped that to the black wire. got it humming and quickly touched the probe to the blue terminal....nothing happened..being the probe wire is so thin, didn't want to hold it there too long.....
i want to say, when i put the terminal block back in the motor, i had to manual turn it backwards for a bit to get a click, because it wouldn't spin forward by hand...
but then jumping the black wire to blue should have worked?
i might end up just buying a little storage tote, cutting it up for a safety cover over the motor, and calling it good...i let it run for a good few minutes last night, and it didn't burst into flames....
i want to say, when i put the terminal block back in the motor, i had to manual turn it backwards for a bit to get a click, because it wouldn't spin forward by hand...
but then jumping the black wire to blue should have worked?
i might end up just buying a little storage tote, cutting it up for a safety cover over the motor, and calling it good...i let it run for a good few minutes last night, and it didn't burst into flames....
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Hmm? (scratching head). Hard to believe both the switch & the winding go bad. Possible but,, Must be missing something,,, Damn, I wish you or I were closer, you have my grimy fingers and curious mind itchy. I hate giving up on something like this and not being able to touchy feely it.
Will get back with you.
Joel B.
Will get back with you.
Joel B.
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i'll double check my tape up job, kinda shady....
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ok, my tape up job, the probe slid to the side and wasn't actually staying put on the black wire.....
does this rubber coated glove, look like proper safety gear, for the direct tap test....i have a complete pair....?
does this rubber coated glove, look like proper safety gear, for the direct tap test....i have a complete pair....?
OK, let's kind of start over.
1) Remove all power from machine (disconnect you temp power hook-ups's)
2) Remove wires between motor and switch, (of course noting from where they are)
3)Set you meter to continuity and check:
a) between orange & blue motor wires
b)between
1) Remove all power from machine (disconnect you temp power hook-ups's)
2) Remove wires between motor and switch, (of course noting from where they are)
3)Set you meter to continuity and check:
a) between orange & blue motor wires
b)between
Ack !! posting problems,,,,yeah glove shoud be OK, just touch the wire, not the ends. try what you are doing first and we'll go from there
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DAMN MAN!!! got some adrenaline runnin' now! glad i was wearing the gloves!
it started spinning in a glorious/scary light show.... lol, so that means the switch is bad? or that the fact i bypassed the dryers 'start' switch has something to with it?
it started spinning in a glorious/scary light show.... lol, so that means the switch is bad? or that the fact i bypassed the dryers 'start' switch has something to with it?
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the start switch in the dryer, looks like it had a lead going to the motor directly, but i don't remember where to....it's a momentary start switch thing....
OK if it went from humming to start and run when you touched the black and blue means the start winding are good, that's a plus.
Ignore my post above about test the motor wires.
Ignore my post above about test the motor wires.
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maybe i put the switch back in wrong? it's a centrifugal thing right? so should i like pull it back out, then put it back in holding it open/pushing on it, while i do it?
Yes the wiring diag. shows that but it requires a holding circuit after you push that button in normal situations. This is far from normal at this point.
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hey man, i'm having fun....and being i can't give you the adrenaline rush...i'd be more then happy to paypal you $10, when this is deculming my malt!
