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Thinking about going eBIAB system. Need some convicing :D

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here's my ebiab system. I used a bottom draining keggle and have a DIY ebrewsupply control box.

my tips:
  • if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.
  • I'd really consider 120V to mash and propane/NG to boil. If I had to do it over again, it would have been cheaper to have a NG line run to my back patio than 220V (I had one run to my deck anyways for the grill). While I really do appreciate the bottom draining, I'm still not 100% sure if it's worth it.
  • if you are concerned about LoDo (which is probably a touchy topic), BIAB may not be compatible. Just something to think about.
  • if you are running a pump to recirculate during the mash, install a sight glass. If you start seeing the liquid level in the sight glass dropping, you know you are pulling a vacuum and you will have to throttle back on the pump.
  • I'm only getting about 65% efficiency right now. Not sure what I need to do to get higher, but I don't worry about it too much. Grain is cheap.
 
I have a 2 vessel brew-rig with a RIMS for re circulation to an 11 gallon igloo. It drains constantly to a 15 gallon bayou classic with a Blichmann boil coil. Once the mash is done, I switch from RIMS to boil coil, and take the igloo to the compost pile. I use a homebrew controller (arduino).
When it gets cold, I start brewing 2 1/2 gallon batches in the kitchen.
You may find my INDOOR RIG interesting for small batches. It is an E-BIABasket.
I use a grainfather sparge water urn, an Auber EZ boil controller, a custom made Arborfab basket, another Arborfab hops spider.
I start with 4.25 gallons of water - end up with 2 1/2 gallons in the keg. I always double mill my grains for this rig.
I do full batch mash and boil - in Beersmith my brewhouse efficiency is 77.40, and my mash efficiency is always between 85 and 92.
I step mash with a minimum of 6 steps (with extended periods at the desired character profile - dry / sweet) - usually 90 minutes total.
The Auber EZ boil is like a dream come true. I am considering ditching my homebrew controller on the OUTDOOR RIG, and buying another EZ boil in 220 V (and building a panel to run the pump).
 
+1 for the avantco 3500 watt induction burner and no pump. When I first started brewing I bought a 10 gallon cooler mash tun to batch sparge. First, it was a pain to clean the mash tun. After my first stuck sparge it was back to brew in a bag. I've since added a pulley system and purchased a Jaded Hydra wort chiller (totally worth it!!!!).

One comment on squeezing the bag. More wort is only beneficial if you account for it in your system. I found that if I squeezed the crap out of by bag and got "extra" preboil volume, my preboil gravity was correct but my original gravity was low, because beersmith figured I would boil off a higher percentage of wort. I now drain the bag until I get to where beersmith predicted my preboil to be and have no troubles hitting my target gravity.

Best of luck you're going to really enjoy BIAB once you figure out your volumes and efficiency.
 
here's my ebiab system. I used a bottom draining keggle and have a DIY ebrewsupply control box.

my tips:
  • if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.
  • I'd really consider 120V to mash and propane/NG to boil. If I had to do it over again, it would have been cheaper to have a NG line run to my back patio than 220V (I had one run to my deck anyways for the grill). While I really do appreciate the bottom draining, I'm still not 100% sure if it's worth it.
  • if you are concerned about LoDo (which is probably a touchy topic), BIAB may not be compatible. Just something to think about.
  • if you are running a pump to recirculate during the mash, install a sight glass. If you start seeing the liquid level in the sight glass dropping, you know you are pulling a vacuum and you will have to throttle back on the pump.
  • I'm only getting about 65% efficiency right now. Not sure what I need to do to get higher, but I don't worry about it too much. Grain is cheap.


double crushing grains seems to be a common fix for BIAB efficiency. Nice project, I enjoyed reading your build, including what you learned along the way and why you chose to build int the way you did.
 
...

I'll disagree that sparging produces higher efficiency overall if you consider the lost wort in both the mash tun and the grain bed. Sparging dilutes the wort whereas full volume mashing and squeezing delivers the same gravity to the boil kettle with only 7 oz or so lost to the grain after squeezing and no dead space loss. The tun contains lost sugars at X volume of water x ??? gravity plus at minimum 15 oz per pound of grain that can not be captured when sparging. And if you set your brewhouse efficiency to 78.5% your cost for grain will go down based on standard recipes that assume 73- 75% efficiency.

Sorry, but I disagree strongly that full volume mashing with squeezing usually beats sparging for efficiency. It is possible to simulate the lauter efficiency of no-sparge and batch sparge processes with high accuracy. Kai Troester wrote about it here. I have implemented my own mash/lauter simulator (which agrees well with Kai's published data), and I describe the calculations used here.

The chart below shows how lauter efficiency (mash efficiency equals conversion efficiency times lauter efficiency) is affected by the grain weight to pre-boil volume ratio, the apparent grain absorption rate (affected by level of squeezing), and for no-sparge vs. single, equal runnings volume batch (dunk) sparge.

No Sparge vs Sparge big beers ratio.png

You can see from the chart that in order for a squeezed no-sparge to beat a typical no-squeeze batch sparge (grain absorption of about 0.12 gal/lb), the apparent grain absorption for the squeezed no-sparge must be below 0.06 gal/lb, and even then the no-sparge only beats the no-squeeze sparge for a limited range of high gravity (high grain weight / pre-boil volume) beers. Very few BIAB'ers actually achieve a 0.06 gal/lb absorption rate (0.07 - 0.08 gal/lb are more typical.) Now BIAB'ers can do dunk (batch) sparging if they want to chase high efficiency, and if they squeeze before and after sparging, then a no-sparge process can never beat that efficiency.

You claim that squeezing can reduce apparent total grain absorption to about "7 oz," or 0.055 gal. For a 10 lb grain bill, this would be an apparent absorption rate of 0.0055 gal/lb which is not possible without a mechanical press (not sure it can even be done with a mechanical press.)

A well designed MLT can limit the undrainable (dead) volume to 0.0625 - 0.125 gal. Those volumes do have an effect on lauter efficiency, but it is minor compared to grain absorption. MLT's with large undrainable volumes do have a significant negative impact on efficiency.

You also say: "The tun contains lost sugars at X volume of water x ??? gravity". The proper way to determine the amount of sugar retained in the grain is with a rigorous mass balance calculation, as I describe in the second link above. There is no way to know the volume of water retained in the grain without doing a mass balance (it is definitely NOT strike volume - runnings volume, due to the effect of dissolved sugar volume on the runnings volume.)

Finally, you state: "plus at minimum 15 oz per pound of grain that can not be captured when sparging." I have no idea what you are trying to say here. Care to elaborate?

Brew on :mug:
 
1. Should i sparge if i go EBIAB? Will it get better efficiency?
2. Will a 10 gallon pot be enough for doing 5G BIAB or should i look at a 15G pot.
3. Ebrewery has a panel for $575 which seems reasonable. Do any of you who do eBIAB have a cost break down for your panel?
4. Overall, i just want to know your successes with BIAB as i really want to get into more brewing but i just cannot pull the trigger without some good advice.

Also, If moving to eBIAB with a pump set up, how many ports should i be looking at on the kettle or overall what would be the best configuration.

Thanks again :D
I'll reiterate/reinforce what several others have already said.
You'll never regret having a larger kettle, but you may regret the smaller one. For full volume mashing you'll need a kettle at least 40% larger than the targeted fermenter volume, so 5 gallon batches require a 9 gallon kettle, 10 gallon = 16.

That (78.5% average efficiency) is possible because of the high water to grain ratio and milling at .020.

I'll disagree that sparging produces higher efficiency overall

1+2. If you're going to BIAB, then do it right (IMO), which is full volume. The uninformed refer to it as no-sparge, but the sparge water volume is in the total water volume for the full mash; there is no need to add water in the end. As TheBrewBag said, the efficiency of this approach is higher than if you mash at a lower water/grist ratio and sparge afterwards. I'm not sure I follow TheBrewBag's math, but I agree with his premise. My recommendation for full volume BIAB is that you need >2X kettle volume to final beer. I think you'll regret if you go for the 10 gal kettle. I have a 20 gal Spike kettle and typically brew 7-10 gallons.

3. Like Wilser recommended, I have the 3500W Avantco induction burner. For 10-12 gallons, I have a 1500W hot rod heatstick from Brewhardware for speeding up transitions. But I certainly understand the desire for the panel control .

I stumbled upon BIABrewer.info. There's a ton of info on the site and a BIAB specific Excel spreadsheet (BIABacus) that you can play around with, plug a typical recipe into & it will calculate the headspace in your kettle based on what your specific kettle dimensions are.
4. I discovered BIABrewer.info 3 years ago and have been BIABing since, after a year of extract brewing. I have just moved to electric and am in the process of getting my indoor brewery up and fully functional. Absolutely no regrets or plans to ever brew 3V.

My new 20G Spike kettle has 2 ports, one output and one for whirlpool. I just added a small 2gal/min 12V pump for recirculation during mash with the return through the lid, similar to what stever1000 documented in this thread.
 
Here are some random thoughts on the topic from someone who bought a full system from CO Brewing.

  • As much as I like my system, I think the best option might be a false bottom and a Wilser bag. A bag is SO EASY to clean and maintain. Even if you have to get a custom false bottom I think a bag is much easier. I also think you will avoid re-circ issues with a bag over a system that includes a mash filter. Not to mention squeezing a bag is easier.

Please elaborate on your statement that a bag is "easier" to clean and maintain. What issues have you had cleaning your mash basket?
 
here's my ebiab system. I used a bottom draining keggle and have a DIY ebrewsupply control box.

my tips:
  • if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.
  • I'd really consider 120V to mash and propane/NG to boil. If I had to do it over again, it would have been cheaper to have a NG line run to my back patio than 220V (I had one run to my deck anyways for the grill). While I really do appreciate the bottom draining, I'm still not 100% sure if it's worth it.
  • if you are concerned about LoDo (which is probably a touchy topic), BIAB may not be compatible. Just something to think about.
  • if you are running a pump to recirculate during the mash, install a sight glass. If you start seeing the liquid level in the sight glass dropping, you know you are pulling a vacuum and you will have to throttle back on the pump.
  • I'm only getting about 65% efficiency right now. Not sure what I need to do to get higher, but I don't worry about it too much. Grain is cheap.

The DIY kit from ebrewsupply does take some time if you've never done anything like it before, but for the savings I'd do it again. I had my panel cutouts done at their shop so there was no extra work there.
 
Please elaborate on your statement that a bag is "easier" to clean and maintain. What issues have you had cleaning your mash basket?

When I used a bag I just transferred from the bag to a garbage bag in less than a minute. When the bag was dry I then shook it clean. With a basket I have to scoop the grains out and then use a hose and sponge to clean the basket.
 
my tips:
  • if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.


  • I would completely agree with this. As someone currently in the process of building a relatively simple controller, I have huge respect for those of you that have these ultra-complex controllers. I have likely not saved any money over a pre-built, as you say. The tools add up (but then you have them for the future). For me if comes down to your enjoyment of the process. If you enjoy DIY then build your own. If you see DIY just as a means to the end, then go pre-built.
 
I would completely agree with this. As someone currently in the process of building a relatively simple controller, I have huge respect for those of you that have these ultra-complex controllers. I have likely not saved any money over a pre-built, as you say. The tools add up (but then you have them for the future). For me if comes down to your enjoyment of the process. If you enjoy DIY then build your own. If you see DIY just as a means to the end, then go pre-built.

yeah, ultimately that's why I went DIY in the first place. This whole hobby is all about DIY - there are plenty of quality craft beers available, the whole point of homebrewing is to make it yourself.

To me, it wasn't that bad, beyond time consuming. I had some advantages that most folks don't: I have a water-jet available for free. I have 3D CAD expertise. I have free advice from electrical engineers a few cubicles away. If I didn't have all of that, I could see this being a pretty laborious project...and expensive, if you factor in the step drill, various hole-saws, a decent crimper/stripper, multi-meter for debug, etc.
 
...

1+2. If you're going to BIAB, then do it right (IMO), which is full volume. The uninformed refer to it as no-sparge, but the sparge water volume is in the total water volume for the full mash; there is no need to add water in the end. As TheBrewBag said, the efficiency of this approach is higher than if you mash at a lower water/grist ratio and sparge afterwards. I'm not sure I follow TheBrewBag's math, but I agree with his premise. My recommendation for full volume BIAB is that you need >2X kettle volume to final beer. I think you'll regret if you go for the 10 gal kettle. I have a 20 gal Spike kettle and typically brew 7-10 gallons.

...

First, there is no "right" way to brew. There are many different ways to brew, that all work, and meet the needs of the brewers that use them.

Second, sparging is rinsing residual sugars from the grain mass after the initial wort is run off. Rinsing requires the application of a solution with less sugar than the original wort, otherwise there is no reduction of residual sugar. After lautering of a full volume mash there is no rinsing done to reduce the amount of residual sugar in the grain mass, thus a full volume mash is also no-sparge. Just adding the water that you would otherwise sparge with to the mash does not constitute a sparge.

Third, the statement: "the efficiency of this approach [full volume mash] is higher than if you mash at a lower water/grist ratio and sparge afterwards" is demonstrably false. I covered this in detail in an earlier post in this thread. Misinformation is not helpful to those trying to gain a better understanding of the various brewing processes.

For the record, I BIAB and usually do a full volume, no-sparge, mash/lauter. I have a full understanding of the efficiency vs. ease of process trade offs, and usually I choose ease of process over slightly higher efficiency.

Brew on :mug:
 
How bout a 12 - 15 gallon kettle, a bag and a 3500w induction cooker?

All you need IMO.

Control panels and recirculating pumps make work in my simple world.

Whatever you choose, I would start with a very basic simple e BIAB and build from there....you may realize that's all you need :)

Why do you want complex, is the beer better lol j/k.

Don't worry about squeezing, just let the bag drain well and maybe spend 50 cents more on grain.


THIS! I started with a five gallon three vessel system, upgraded to a 10 gallon three vessel system (including a stainless mash tun). Decided to try doing a ten gallon BIAB batch and never went back to three vessels. Then I added no chill to the process and couldn't be happier. No pumps, hoses, extra vessels to clean and prepare. No spending all day brewing.

I might go electric in the future, but it will be a very simple system. I find that the simplicity and ease of BIAB means I brew more beer and enjoy making it much more. Also, I'd rather spend my money on stainless conicals rather than extra pumps, hoses, etc.
 
I might go electric in the future, but it will be a very simple system. I find that the simplicity and ease of BIAB means I brew more beer and enjoy making it much more. Also, I'd rather spend my money on stainless conicals rather than extra pumps, hoses, etc.

Two switches, two elements and a drain valve. Added a pizza screen later in case I need a burst or heat without burning the bag.
 
THIS! I started with a five gallon three vessel system, upgraded to a 10 gallon three vessel system (including a stainless mash tun). Decided to try doing a ten gallon BIAB batch and never went back to three vessels. Then I added no chill to the process and couldn't be happier. No pumps, hoses, extra vessels to clean and prepare. No spending all day brewing.

I might go electric in the future, but it will be a very simple system. I find that the simplicity and ease of BIAB means I brew more beer and enjoy making it much more. Also, I'd rather spend my money on stainless conicals rather than extra pumps, hoses, etc.

I have been "no chill" for a couple of years. I pump my boiling wort into a stubby 1/4 barrel keg, then cap it with a tri-clover cap (when I use my big rig). I just leave it in the grainfather overnight when I use my countertop rig...
 
First, there is no "right" way to brew. There are many different ways to brew, that all work, and meet the needs of the brewers that use them.
You're absolutely right. I shouldn't have made such a definitive statement. There are many ways to achive the same end result.

Second, sparging is rinsing residual sugars from the grain mass after the initial wort is run off. Rinsing requires the application of a solution with less sugar than the original wort, otherwise there is no reduction of residual sugar. After lautering of a full volume mash there is no rinsing done to reduce the amount of residual sugar in the grain mass, thus a full volume mash is also no-sparge. Just adding the water that you would otherwise sparge with to the mash does not constitute a sparge.
While what you describe could be accurately described as sparging, I believe your "definition" is too restrictive. Wikibrew (certainly not the gospel) states "All sparges work on the basic principle of moving “stuff” (we are looking at sugars here) from places of higher concentration (the crushed malt) to places of lower concentration (the sparge water). How we manipulate this determines the sparge technique that we use." In simple terms, sparging or lautering is the rinsing of sugars from the grains. There are multiple ways to achieve that objective.

Third, the statement: "the efficiency of this approach [full volume mash] is higher than if you mash at a lower water/grist ratio and sparge afterwards" is demonstrably false. I covered this in detail in an earlier post in this thread. Misinformation is not helpful to those trying to gain a better understanding of the various brewing processes.
I haven't done the extensive research to back my statements, so I'll accept that they may not be definitive. demonstrably false is bit of a harsh description. In your cited earlier post, you stated "There are many different ways to brew, that all work, and meet the needs of the brewers that use them."
It is possible to simulate the lauter efficiency of no-sparge and batch sparge processes with high accuracy. Kai Troester wrote about it here. I have implemented my own mash/lauter simulator (which agrees well with Kai's published data), and I describe the calculations used here.
You are taking your simulations as gospel and implying that they are 100% accurate and without doubt. I'm not saying whether they are accurate or not, but I can't simply accept them as the definitive truth. We all have opinions. You appropriately corrected me for implying that my opinion was "fact", yet it seems like you have done the same thing.

The bottom line is to take everything you hear as guidance, not fact.
 
While what you describe could be accurately described as sparging, I believe your "definition" is too restrictive. Wikibrew (certainly not the gospel) states "All sparges work on the basic principle of moving “stuff” (we are looking at sugars here) from places of higher concentration (the crushed malt) to places of lower concentration (the sparge water). How we manipulate this determines the sparge technique that we use." In simple terms, sparging or lautering is the rinsing of sugars from the grains. There are multiple ways to achieve that objective.

I'm not sure I see anything but drawbacks in trying to stretch the definition. You can make beer without sparging but you can't without lautering. Having a clear definition of sparge helps define the step that many will skip in the brew day.

I haven't done the extensive research to back my statements, so I'll accept that they may not be definitive. demonstrably false is bit of a harsh description. In your cited earlier post, you stated "There are many different ways to brew, that all work, and meet the needs of the brewers that use them."You are taking your simulations as gospel and implying that they are 100% accurate and without doubt. I'm not saying whether they are accurate or not, but I can't simply accept them as the definitive truth. We all have opinions. You appropriately corrected me for implying that my opinion was "fact", yet it seems like you have done the same thing.

The bottom line is to take everything you hear as guidance, not fact.

I don't want to speak for the person you are replying to but I think you are incorrect here. I'm not sure that anyone who knows the definition will take a simulation as gospel. What is gospel is that certain methods yield more than others. That is what is represented by the formulas and simulations.
 
...

While what you describe could be accurately described as sparging, I believe your "definition" is too restrictive. Wikibrew (certainly not the gospel) states "All sparges work on the basic principle of moving “stuff” (we are looking at sugars here) from places of higher concentration (the crushed malt) to places of lower concentration (the sparge water). How we manipulate this determines the sparge technique that we use." In simple terms, sparging or lautering is the rinsing of sugars from the grains. There are multiple ways to achieve that objective.

At the end of a mash, you shouldn't have significant concentration gradients within the mash. Simply draining wort from the grain mass does not create a concentration gradient between the retained wort and the drained wort. Concentration gradients are created by adding plain water to the mash. In the case of batch sparging, the concentration gradient is short lived (it's demise is hastened by stirring.) In continuous (fly) sparging, concentration gradients exist for the duration of the concurrent sparge and lautering processes, although the gradients are continuously changing. Lautering is the separation of the spent grain from the wort, whether there is sparging involved or not. Sparging is removal, by rinsing, of sugars left in the spent grain, after an initial draining. Rinsing is the reduction of residuals due to the action of dilution (which creates concentration gradients.) Sparging and lautering are not the same thing, even though they may be going on at the same time. In a full volume mash, there is no rinsing of residual sugar from the grain mass after the initial drain, so there is no sparge.

I haven't done the extensive research to back my statements, so I'll accept that they may not be definitive. demonstrably false is bit of a harsh description. In your cited earlier post, you stated "There are many different ways to brew, that all work, and meet the needs of the brewers that use them."You are taking your simulations as gospel and implying that they are 100% accurate and without doubt. I'm not saying whether they are accurate or not, but I can't simply accept them as the definitive truth. We all have opinions. You appropriately corrected me for implying that my opinion was "fact", yet it seems like you have done the same thing.

"Demonstrably false" is the correct description of the assertion that "full volume mashing provides better efficiency than sparging." I will now proceed to demonstrate the falsity of that assertion, thus demonstrating that "demonstrably false" is correct. Unless you can find fault with the physics and math below, the discussion is over. If you don't understand everything that follows, you have no credibility to criticize it. If you have questions about the details, ask specific questions, and I will do my best to provide better, or more detailed, explanations.

If you identify any errors, please provide specific details that show why they are errors. I want to make this simulator as accurate as possible.

First we'll look at the lauter efficiency of a full volume mash, using some arbitrary, but realistic, choices for grain weight, water volumes, grain absorption rate, etc. All volumes will be measured/calculated at 68˚F. The starting point is:
  • Grain bill of 10 lbs, 4% moisture content, @ 80% extract potential (dry weight basis)
  • Total brewing water volume of 8 gal
  • Grain absorption rate of 0.08 gal/lb (typical for a squeezed grain mass)
The dry weight of the grain is:
Dry_Wt = As_Is_Wt * (1 - Moisture_Content) = 10 lbs * 0.96 = 9.6 lbs​
The extract (mostly sugar) potential is:
Potential_Extract_Wt = Dry_Wt * Extract_Potential = 9.6 lb * 0.80 = 7.68 lb​
We will assume 100% conversion efficiency during the mash, so that our actual Extract_Weight = Potential_Extract_Weight = 7.68 lbs.

Water density at 68˚F is 8.3304 lb/gal, so our 8 gal of water weighs 66.64 lb. We also have the water from the moisture content of the grain. This is 10 lb * 0.04 = 0.4 lb. Thus our total mash water will be:
Mash_Water_Wt = Strike_Water_Wt + Grain_Water_Wt = 66.64 lb + 0.4 lb = 67.04 lb​
So, at the end of the mash the wort will contain 7.68 lb of extract and 67.04 lb of water. It is assumed that the mash has been stirred to the point that there are no concentration gradients in the wort. We have the following:
Wort_Wt = Water_Wt + Extract_Wt = 67.04 lb + 7.68 lb = 74.72 lb, and
Wort ˚Plato = 100˚ * Extract_Wt / Wort_Wt = 100˚ * 7.68 lb / 74.72 lb = 10.28 ˚Plato​
The volume of wort obtained by lautering is:
Lautered_Wort_Vol = Strike_Volume - (Grain_Wt * Grain_Absorption_Rate) = 8.0 gal - (10 lb * 0.08 gal/lb) = 7.2 gal​
We now have to convert ˚Plato to SG so that we can calculate the weight of the 7.2 gal of collected of wort. The equation for conversion is:
SG = 1 + (˚Plato / (258.6 - ((˚Plato / 258.2) * 227.1))), so
10.28 ˚Plato ==> 1.0412 SG​
We determine the Lautered_Wort_Wt as:
Lautered_Wort_Wt = Lautered_Wort_Vol * 8.3304 lb/gal * Wort_SG = 7.2 gal * 8.3304 lb/gal * 1.0412 = 62.45 lb​
The extract weight recovered is:
Lautered_Extract_Wt = Wort_˚Plato * Lautered_Wort_Wt / 100˚ = 10.28 * 62.45 / 100 = 6.42 lb​
For lauter efficiency we have:
Lauter_Efficiency = 100% * Lautered_Extract_Wt / Extract_Wt = 100% * 6.42 lb / 7.68 lb = 83.6%, and Mash_Retained_Extract_Wt = Extract_Wt - Lautered_Extract_Wt = 7.68 lb - 6.42 lb = 1.26 lb​

Whew, we're finally done the the full volume, no-sparge part of the analysis. Now we'll look at an equal runnings volume, single batch sparge for the same grain bill, moisture content, extract potential, total brewing water (8.0 gal), and conversion efficiency as we used for the no-sparge. The actual total Extract_Wt is the same 7.68 lb as before. The total brewing water will be split into 4.4 gal of strike water, and 3.6 gal of sparge water. The analysis of the mash and first runnings is similar to the full volume case:

Our 4.4 gal of strike water weighs 36.65 lb. We have the same 0.4 lb of water from the grain. Thus our total mash water will be:
Mash_Water_Wt = Strike_Water_Wt + Grain_Water_Wt = 36.65lb + 0.4 lb = 37.05 lb​
So, at the end of the mash the wort will contain 7.68 lb of extract and 37.05 lb of water. It is assumed that the mash has been stirred to the point that there are no concentration gradients in the wort. We have the following:
Wort_Wt = Water_Wt + Extract_Wt = 37.05 lb + 7.68 lb = 44.73 lb, and
Wort_˚Plato = 100˚ * Extract_Wt / Wort_Wt = 100˚ * 7.68 lb / 44.73 lb = 17.17 ˚Plato​
The volume of wort obtained by lautering is:
Lautered_Wort_Vol = Strike_Volume - (Grain_Wt * Grain_Absorption_Rate) = 4.4 gal - (10 lb * 0.08 gal/lb) = 3.6 gal​
We now have to convert ˚Plato to SG so that we can calculate the weight of our 3.6 gal of wort. The equation for conversion is:
SG = 1 + (˚Plato / (258.6 - ((˚Plato / 258.2) * 227.1))), and
17.17 ˚Plato = 1.0705 SG, and
Lautered_Wort_Wt = Lautered_Wort_Vol * 8.3304 lb/gal * Wort_SG = 3.6 gal * 8.3304 lb/gal * 1.0705 = 32.10 lb​
The extract weight recovered is:
Lautered_Extract_Wt = Wort_˚Plato * Lautered_Wort_Wt / 100˚ = 17.17 * 32.10 / 100 = 5.51 lb
Mash_Retained_Extract_Wt = Extract_Wt - Lautered_Extract_Wt = 7.68 lb - 5.51 lb = 2.17 lb​
We now need to determine the water weight in the mash after adding the sparge water, To do this we need to calculate the weight of water retained in the mash. Since:
˚Plato = 100˚ * Extract_Wt / (Extract_Wt + Water_Wt), then
Retained_Mash_Water_Wt = Retained_Mash_Extract_Wt * 100˚ / ˚Plato - Retained_Extract_Wt, ==>
Retained_Mash_Water_Wt = 2.17 lb * 100˚ / 17.17˚ - 2.17 lb = 10.47 lb​
The total Sparge_Mash_Water_Wt then becomes:
Sparge_Mash_Water_Wt = Retained_Mash_Water_Wt + Sparge_Water_Wt
= 10.47 lb + 3.6 gal * 8.3304 lb/gal = 40.46 lb​
Now that we now how much extract and water are in the sparged mash, we can calculate the Sparged_Wort_˚Plato as:
Sparged_Wort_˚Plato = 100˚ * Mash_Retained_Extract_Wt / (Mash_Retained_Extract_Wt + Sparge_Mash_Water_Wt)
= 100˚ * 2.17 lb / (2.17 lb + 40.46 lb) = 5.09 ˚Plato​
The volume of wort obtained by lautering the sparge is 3.6 gal, the same as the sparge water volume, since there is no additional grain absorption during the sparge. The ˚Plato of the sparged wort is converted to SG using the formula above:
Sparged_Wort_˚Plato = 5.09 ==> Sparged_Wort_SG = 1.0200​
The Sparged_Wort_Wt then becomes:
Sparged_Wort_Wt = Sparged_Wort_Vol * 8.3304 lb/gal * SG = 3.6 gal * 8.3304 lb/gal * 1.0200 = 30.59 lb​
And the Sparged_Extract_Wt is:
Sparged_Extract_Wt = Sparged_Wort_Wt * Sparged_Wort_Plato / 100 = 30.59 lb * 5.09 / 100 = 1.56 lb​
And the total collected extract is:
Total_Collected_Extract_Wt = First_Runnings_Extract_Wt + Sparged_Extract_Wt = 5.51 lb + 1.56 lb = 7.07 lb​
This is more than the 6.42 lb of extract collected with the no-sparge process.

For lauter efficiency we have:
Lauter_Efficiency = 100% * Total_Collected_Extract_Wt / Extract_Wt = 100% * 7.07 lb / 7.68 lb = 92.1%
92.1% lauter efficiency for single batch sparge vs. 83.6 lauter efficiency demonstrates that full volume, no-sparge mashes do not have better efficiency than batch sparged mashes.

You can change the grain weights, total brewing water volumes, and grain absorption around all you want, but the resulting conclusion of which process has better efficiency remains the same, as long as you keep the inputs the same within a case, and only change the sparging process. This is what I did to create the chart posted earlier in this thread.


In your cited earlier post, you stated "There are many different ways to brew, that all work, and meet the needs of the brewers that use them." You are taking your simulations as gospel and implying that they are 100% accurate and without doubt. I'm not saying whether they are accurate or not, but I can't simply accept them as the definitive truth.
I don't claim that the simulations are 100% accurate, but they are accurate enough to prove that the efficiency with a sparge is better than without. There is no doubt about the accuracy of the dilution math used in the model. Things that could affect the accuracy of the model are errors in grain potentials, moisture content, grain absorption rates, the assumption that grain absorption is equal for all runnings, and the assumption of no concentration gradients within in the wort before lautering, but none of these will affect the comparison between sparge vs. no-sparge, since the differences aren't even close.

We all have opinions. You appropriately corrected me for implying that my opinion was "fact", yet it seems like you have done the same thing.

The bottom line is to take everything you hear as guidance, not fact.

Some things are facts (gravity, and the physics that describe the behavior of objects in our universe, for example), and some things are opinions or value judgments. Opinions and value judgments are debatable, facts are not. You need to be able to tell which is which. In the case of the present discussion, the physics of dilution are fact.

Brew on :mug:
 
THIS! I started with a five gallon three vessel system, upgraded to a 10 gallon three vessel system (including a stainless mash tun). Decided to try doing a ten gallon BIAB batch and never went back to three vessels. Then I added no chill to the process and couldn't be happier. No pumps, hoses, extra vessels to clean and prepare. No spending all day brewing.

I might go electric in the future, but it will be a very simple system. I find that the simplicity and ease of BIAB means I brew more beer and enjoy making it much more. Also, I'd rather spend my money on stainless conicals rather than extra pumps, hoses, etc.

Two things to consider:
If you contact Arborfab, they will make you a basket out of 400 mesh screen. Mine has a bail on it, to lift it out of the pot. Here is a great thing - Have them put ears on it, and supply a U-wire. I write it into my process - 170 degrees for 15 minutes to mashout - lift the basket - let drain for 15 minutes (while I raise the pot to 190). At 5000 feet, my pot will boil at 202 degrees, so I try to have it hover where I can goose it to a boil in minutes. (I do electric, because I step mash everything). Second - there is a point of diminishing return when "going big". I am 61 years old. I have been brewing for 40 years. I have limited my "full batch" system to 6.5 gallons. The wort going into the fast ferment is about 6.7 gallons. almost 7 gallons in a keg is 80 pounds - and it is 200 degrees. That is my limit. It is all I can handle alone...
 
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