I like my Perlick faucets far more than the one Intertap I bought. The Intertap isn't actually being used due to how much I don't like it. With the Perlick faucets, you have a little more resistance when you move the handle. The Intertaps move too freely and feel like if you accidently touch the tap it will flip open.
To force carb it depends on the method. In the past I used the two week set and forget. Simply get the keg to serving temperature and put it on the CO2 feed. Use one of the charts available to figure out that combo. You can also try the burst carb method, but people have mixed results. Plus you need to let it stabilize after the burst, so you might not even save any time. You can also use one of the carbonating corny lids that MoreBeer offers which will drastically reduce the time to carbonate without needing to stabilize. You will want either a different CO2 feed for that, or a secondary regulator to change the PSI feeding it during the process. I've done the two week and corny lid methods. Now, I'm simply carbonating in conical (carbonating stone attachment) and putting fully carbonated beer into keg and can. Ready to drink as soon as the keg goes into the keezer.
I don't have any flow control faucets.
I'm using a 20# CO2 tank I bought in 2011 and am still on the initial filling. Depending on how many kegs you plan to have, size your CO2 tank accordingly. Get aluminum as well (weight saving, making it easier on you). At this point I have four CO2 bottles. Besides the 20#, I have a 10# (used to carbonate in fermenter and push out of fermenter), a 5# that I use mostly for moving solutions into/out of kegs when cleaning or for the CO2 purge when canning, and a 2.5# that I'm not using and will probably trade in towards another bottle at some point.
Get a good used one if you can, since most places simply swap them out. Or go to a gas supplier and just get what they offer (with good date on it) and just swap as needed.
For cleaning, soaking in hot PBW will do a lot. A bucket blaster, or something like it, pushing PBW solution through the keg and fittings will also do a lot. I use the bucket blaster on my kegs since I can clean the ball lock posts and dip tubes at the same time.
For the freezer, you'll have to hunt in your local area. I got my current one (10.? cubic freezer) last year when they were in short supply. Wanted a 9 cubic but that went OOS before I could order it. At least I got free delivery on the new one (into position).
Plan to make a collar for the keezer. There's plenty of threads posted already about that. It will make running CO2 into the keezer easier, as well as positioning the faucets easier. I have six faucets in my setup at this time. I have a dual body CO2 regulator and single body nitrogen/CO2 mix regulator going through gas bulkheads (no worries about running the tubing through) in the collar. I then feed manifolds inside to split those to whatever kegs need them. Makes it easy for me to put kegs on the gas even if they're not going on tap yet. Since I can hold up to ten kegs in the keezer (eight in the main/full depth, and two on the hump).
I would advise NOT putting your gas bottles/regulators inside the keezer. They do better at room temp for readings. Plus, it's far easier to check on them and adjust as needed when outside the keezer.
BTW, I've not bottled beer in ages. When I started brewing again early last year (took about five years off due to life) there was no way I'd do that. Ended up getting setup to fill cans instead. I like that a hell of a lot more than bottles. For one thing, they seal very well (no concerns at all). For anther, I don't need to worry about asking for them back. Or going out and buying more bottles, or bottles and caps (never did use the crimp on caps). I'll still bottle mead, but everything else goes into cans.