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The upgrade version of STC-1000: Fahrenheit Display, More Easy Setting

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This seems like it would be a necessity for lots of us. If you're taking the time to flash these to give degrees F functionality might as well be adding the profile functionality at the same time. For the price I'd love to get one if it had this as I am currently gathering parts for my ferm chamber controller, but I will likely go ahead and pay a little more else where to get this functionality.


Thank you for your question.
Here I would like to clarify that we develop and manufacture ITC-1000F thermostat. Of course, in order to meet the needs well, we research a number of popular controllers and collect customer unmet needs. Now we have ITC-1000F , ITC-2000 On/Off controllers and ITC-100series PID controllers.
In addition, we will sell new product in the near one or two months, in order to better meet the needs of users of HTB.
 
I just received one of these from Amazon yesterday and plan to use it on my keezer that I am building. Given my geographic location, and the fact that my keezer temperature doesn't need to fluctuate, I have no need for the heating side of this controller. Can I wire it only to use the cooling side and not be in any danger of damaging the controller?

I understand that I wouldn't be using the controller to its fullest but I still haven't found a cheaper controller option that is single stage and in F.

Thanks.
 
The online manual for the ITC-1000F has a diagram showing "Power Supply 110VAC 50Hz/60Hz". The heating and cooling outputs show "10A/110VAC".

This makes sense for Taiwan where mains power and appliances are 110VAC/60Hz.

Where I plan to use this in the United States, the line power here is 120V/60Hz. The freezer and heating unit are also rated for 120V/60Hz.

I am sure this will still work but not so sure if these mismatches will cause components to fail prematurely?

Any electrically savvy people out there who can provide some feedback?
 
The online manual for the ITC-1000F has a diagram showing "Power Supply 110VAC 50Hz/60Hz". The heating and cooling outputs show "10A/110VAC".
The online manual I'm looking at says 10A/250VAC. How does this translate to 120VAC? Same maximum amperage (10A) at the lower voltage?

Thinking about a 1500W/120V heater that draws 12.5A,. Pretty sure it's not a good idea, but wondered if anyone had tried?
 
Looking at the same manual, it's just not internally consistent.

The text and diagrams in the manual label the Power Supply required as "110VAC 50Hz/60Hz".

The relay contacts however are shown as 10A/250VAC in portions of the manual text and 10A/110VAC in the wiring diagram of the same manual.
 
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Got my ITC-1000F Monday (ordered Sunday). Wired up and installed on the new fermentation chamber since I still require heat. Works awesome. Just need to sell the 419 now.
 
I will post it later tonight. Im at work and it wont let me post pics for whatever reason from the desktop or the app.
 
I learned today that the wiring recommendations on your web site for the ITC-1000 and the .pdf instruction manual for the ITC-1000 both recommend switching the neutral wires of the load circuits. This wiring method violates article 404 of the US National Electrical Code (NEC). I recommend you correct your recommendations at the earliest possible opportunity.

Update: I have been going back and forth with Ink-Bird, and they are working to get the documentation fixed. I am impressed by how fast they responded when I brought this up with them.

Update 2: As of 7/8/15 the web site and .pdf tutorial now show NEC compliant wiring recommendations for the ITC-1000. Quick & responsible response by Ink-Bird.

Brew on :mug:
 
Just going to leave this here in case people want to wire their keezer like I did with the outlet on the back of the collar. Never mind the color of the wires.

KB%20Wire%20Detail%20Final_zpsy4odjshc.jpg
 
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