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Sound like a plan. I’m planning on heading out there in late august or early September.
American IPA The New West Coast IPA
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Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Getting to the end of the keg of my hb’d modern west coast ipa. I’d keep the water and grainbill the same and greatly reduce the talus. It’s a unique hop but the woodsie finish of the beer makes me want to soften it
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What’s your bittering hop of choice or do you adjust according to the hops your going to use?
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Bitter hop for hoppy ales is Columbus usually and semi to hoppy lager or non hop forward beer I use magnum
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I’m on the same boat
Yup, Talus is a weird one. I will be sending my new American IPA to @fourfarthing , will be great to get some feedback. Here in FL, my club friends have liked it so far.
My beer does not perfectly fit on this thread, but I've definitely been flirting with the New West Coast IPA unintentionally for years and would love to share it here.
13 lb 2 row
3 lb Vienna
0.5 lb C40
0.5 lb Sugar
0.5 oz Warrior 60 min (20 IBU)
1 oz Simcoe 30 min (26 IBU)
1 oz Citra 10 min (11 IBU)
1 oz Simcoe 5 min (7 IBU)
1 oz Citra 0 min
2 oz Centennial 0 min
2 oz Centennial Lupomax Whirlpool (170 for 20 min)
2 oz Citra Whirlpool (170 for 20 min)
2 oz Citra dry hop
4 oz Simcoe dry hop
Imperial Flagship
150:50 sulfate:chloride
Mash at 156, mash pH = 5.3
O.G. = 1.066
F.G. = 1.007
ABV = 7.7%
IBU = 64
Clear golden/amber in color with a thin white head. Aroma of mango, pine, grapefruit, orange and lemon zest, faint biscuit. Flavor is more pine and grapefruit dominant, with hints of mango, and faint caramel. Body is medium, finish is very crisp and balance ends slightly bitter.
Overall I love this beer, probably one of my best west coast IPA’s. I would order a few pints of this at a bar. I think the alcohol should be a little lower (my attenuation often surprises me). My main complaint is also a slightly 'sharp' taste on the finish that is common across a lot of my west coast IPA's that is kind of like lemon pith. When I compare it to my favorite commercial versions, they are a little rounder/smoother with flavor saturated instead of having that sharp quality... hard to describe. I'm not sure what's causing it or how to improve it.
As far as the style goes, I love the less bitter, lighter in color, and combination of classic citrus/pine with more modern tropical fruit. I've been reluctant to let go of the 2 row and crystal though.
13 lb 2 row
3 lb Vienna
0.5 lb C40
0.5 lb Sugar
0.5 oz Warrior 60 min (20 IBU)
1 oz Simcoe 30 min (26 IBU)
1 oz Citra 10 min (11 IBU)
1 oz Simcoe 5 min (7 IBU)
1 oz Citra 0 min
2 oz Centennial 0 min
2 oz Centennial Lupomax Whirlpool (170 for 20 min)
2 oz Citra Whirlpool (170 for 20 min)
2 oz Citra dry hop
4 oz Simcoe dry hop
Imperial Flagship
150:50 sulfate:chloride
Mash at 156, mash pH = 5.3
O.G. = 1.066
F.G. = 1.007
ABV = 7.7%
IBU = 64
Clear golden/amber in color with a thin white head. Aroma of mango, pine, grapefruit, orange and lemon zest, faint biscuit. Flavor is more pine and grapefruit dominant, with hints of mango, and faint caramel. Body is medium, finish is very crisp and balance ends slightly bitter.
Overall I love this beer, probably one of my best west coast IPA’s. I would order a few pints of this at a bar. I think the alcohol should be a little lower (my attenuation often surprises me). My main complaint is also a slightly 'sharp' taste on the finish that is common across a lot of my west coast IPA's that is kind of like lemon pith. When I compare it to my favorite commercial versions, they are a little rounder/smoother with flavor saturated instead of having that sharp quality... hard to describe. I'm not sure what's causing it or how to improve it.
As far as the style goes, I love the less bitter, lighter in color, and combination of classic citrus/pine with more modern tropical fruit. I've been reluctant to let go of the 2 row and crystal though.
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@anteater8 The beer looks fantastic and with those hops, I’m sure it’s delicious. I’m surprised to see that your calculated IBUs don’t take into account the flameout and 170 degree WP additions. Brewers Friend would add a significant number of IBUs with that schedule. Just curious…
You're right, I don't account for whirlpool IBUs. I've read so many different ways of configuring Beersmith settings to get accurate whirlpool IBUs, I just go off of "boil IBUs" alone for my recipes. My IPAs, west coast or hazy, pretty much all have 4-6 oz whirlpool hops, so that contribution is close to constant. I know its not scientific, but I guess it works for me after brewing a ton of IPAs. As far as this recipe goes, I wouldn't it any less bitter, or I think it would lose its crisp quality and risk finishing sweet.
I am curious to hear about how others calculate whirlpool IBUs though, maybe its something I should start taking more seriously.
Have you thought about Honey Malt to replace crystal? It was suggested to me years ago and never looked back. No more than a 4oz/5gal batch works pretty good.
Received ALDC and awaiting Sunday (1st day off) to brew. For someone who's fought hop creep for years can't express my hope enough. It'll be basically a Pliny'ish recipe. Probably keg dry hop this one to give the best chance of success.
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Really curious about you hopping schedule. Ten ounces on the hot side really seems like a metric crap ton, though not out-of-line for a Pliny-esque WCIPA. Did you consider using LupoMax or some cryo hops for the cold side hops to cut down on vegetal matter and prevent hop creep?
While I haven’t done a Pliny style IPA in a couple of years, I’ve been wanting to have one on tap but have shied away from trying due to all the hops. I really liked PtE when we were in Santa Rosa pre-Covid, and want to try my hand at replicating something similar.
Thought I'd ask ChatGPT about a PtE clone recipe....
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So when are you going to brew it?
I just finished a clone recipe. Pretty similar. I also asked for a Treehouse Haze and Green recipe. A Nebraska Melange A Trios recipe which it included the wine/oak flavor additions. Also, Alchemist Heady Topper. On some it stated to use 1lb of Honey Malt which I think is a bit high but the grain bill/hop schedules looked proper for the styles.
Interesting.
Originally went there to work on my beer labels. I wasn't able to do anything with my picture but it generated great pictures I'm using for labels through GrogTag. Admittedly, it's a bit of rabbit hole.
OT, just threw in fermentation hops for the WCIIPA.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Midjourney is definitely the best for images - particularly of people - but the free tier is relatively limited and the Discord interface is a bit weird. Bing image creator isn't bad as long as you don't want faces and you get a lot more goes for free.
There's definitely an art to getting prompts right though.
Thanks for the heads up. I ended up plucking down $15 to access the AI generated images. I put in "picture of a green juicy hop dripping onto a tongue" but kept getting "content not allowed". Ha! So went another route...
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Yeah - it can be really frustrating when you want to use a word in an "innocent" sense but it decides that you're trying to use it in another, less innocent way but quite small tweaks can get round it. In this case it might be that "juicy" is blacklisted but you're OK with "dripping juice". Hmm - maybe not! But often that kind of change can work - these things are quite prudish, but have weird blind spots in their prudery.
Yep - Bing is fine with "dripping juice" but not "juicy" :
"in the style of a zombie move"
"in the style of Seurat"
"in the style of Kandinsky"
"colour pencil"
"pixel art"
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Lot's of great info here. Like some others have mentioned, I'd like to add a new west coast ipa to my usual NEIPA line up, and I'm looking forward to it as the weather warms up.
Any opinions for yeast selection: lager vs ca ale?
Any opinions for yeast selection: lager vs ca ale?
I have only used cali ale so far, but plan to use 34/70 & novalager this summer. Will report back. I really enjoyed Firestone Walker’s hopnosis which reportedly uses 34/70. Seems like Highland Park uses lager yeast.
Good question. I guess I was really going for a slightly more modern pliny-esque IPA. This is a style I admit I have a lot of opportunity to improve on.
My original starting point was the Mad Fermentationist West Coast IPA, which got me my first ever medal out of 40 IPAs, but its the only medal I've ever gotten in American IPA lol. Since then I've tweaked with mixed results, moving to Chico yeast, adding in the vienna & crystal, and always using different combos of Simcoe, Citra, Centennial, and Amarillo.
I've looked at a ton of NHC gold medal recipes. Most have around 5 oz hot side, no whirlpool, and 5 oz dry hop. But as someone who brews NEIPAs way more, with much more success, I have a hard time not adding a big whirlpool and big dry hop. I just also feel like this style needs more hot side and malt to get the depth of flavor. But again I've still got a ways to go with this style.
Hey this beer just got a silver in a local competition!
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Yo, not to detract from this thread but Im currently cold crashing an altbier to 38F and I used dusseldorf yeast. great fast fermenting yeast but its a poor flocculator despite WLP saying its flocculation is medium lol. So while I have only used biofine right after kegging, Im thinking once this beer gets to 38 tomorrow to give it a shot of biofine in the fermentor to get as clear beer as I can when I keg it on sunday. I can swirl the fermentor a bit after adding biofine but its not like I'll be able to vigorously shake it like king king over my head like I do after kegging lol. Question: if I add biofine to the fermentor once at 38F for a few days, would this be a waste of time since it will be kegged on sunday? Just trying to think of efficient way to get as clear beer in the keg as possible from the start. Cold crashing certainly helps though but this yeast is a ***** to get to drop out. I typically dose at 2ml per gallon when going directly to the keg.
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At 38F, Biofine could clear a 5 gallon batch in as little as 24 hours, but 48 hours would be a better bet for brilliantly clear beer.
Yesterday I kegged a Kolsch which I’d spunded and then cold crashed at 36F for several days. After harvesting yeast, the beer was free of any clumps and chunks but was still more like a hazy beer than a crystal clear Kolsch. I injected 20ml of Biofine through the liquid post of a CO2 purged keg (floating dip tube) and did a closed transfer under pressure to the keg.
I expect it’s pretty clear by now, but I’m going to wait another day or two before drawing a sample. Even though the beer is carbonated and at temperature for serving, it will still benefit from several weeks of conditioning in the keg before I’ll serve it.
Coincidentally I’m brewing an Alt tomorrow. What’s your recipe, if you don’t mind sharing?
Yesterday I kegged a Kolsch which I’d spunded and then cold crashed at 36F for several days. After harvesting yeast, the beer was free of any clumps and chunks but was still more like a hazy beer than a crystal clear Kolsch. I injected 20ml of Biofine through the liquid post of a CO2 purged keg (floating dip tube) and did a closed transfer under pressure to the keg.
I expect it’s pretty clear by now, but I’m going to wait another day or two before drawing a sample. Even though the beer is carbonated and at temperature for serving, it will still benefit from several weeks of conditioning in the keg before I’ll serve it.
Coincidentally I’m brewing an Alt tomorrow. What’s your recipe, if you don’t mind sharing?
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your response. I think Im just not gonna change my process on this beer and biofine when in the keg as usual. I'll post the alt receipe for ya on the altbier thread later and tag ya.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
i just made an attempt at a west coast ipa after at least a couple years break. i really dig it! i like the minerally, crisp flavor with dank hops. pleasant change of pace. the bitterness is firm but not clinging. my only complaint is that it has a bit of a canteloupey aroma. I am guessing it is from the columbus dry hop. columbus is a very intense, super dank hop. i don't mind it, but i think some people might not love that character. i dry hopped with 4 oz chinook lupo, 2 oz centennial lupo and 2 oz columbus lupo. it's also quite hazy, which doesn't bother me, but it would probably be dinged a lot in a competition. I let it sit for like 2 weeks at 45F before dry hopping, so i think the haze is all from the dry hop. If I fined this would the hop flavor be as good? I usually don't fine beers, especially hoppy ones.
I like the 100% Pils malt grist, nice malty flavor but light still.
I like the 100% Pils malt grist, nice malty flavor but light still.
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If you fined it at this point, I think the overall dankness and probably the melon character, would decrease. But some lagering may also result in both clearing and some improvement of the overall character. I've never dry hopped with Chinook, but Centennial and Columbus are predictably good: dank, pine. citrus. I do have an Arrogant Bastard "clone" in the queue, so a crap ton of Chinook, but no dry hop. I'd just give your beer a bit of time...
Poured my last one of these Sunday night and I’m sad it’s gone. Will definitely make it back into the brew schedule soon. Was a basically the original recipe from OP. Future I’ll probably put this on a regular rotation and play with the hop combos.
I have a pound of Nectaron I bought without a plan for how to use. Might just replace the citra with nectaron and have a nectaron simcoe version. Maybe throw in a third hop. Thoughts?
(Mirror image picture but the text behind says “Ring Bell For Beer”)
I have a pound of Nectaron I bought without a plan for how to use. Might just replace the citra with nectaron and have a nectaron simcoe version. Maybe throw in a third hop. Thoughts?
(Mirror image picture but the text behind says “Ring Bell For Beer”)
Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
Still have to plan one of these in.
My usual method for IPAs is a two week process of fermenting for 9 or 10 days and then dry hopping for 3 or 4 days at fermentation temperature so the fermentation can continue if needed.
The beers have been good but haven't blown me away so I would like to try the cold crash and then dry hop cold for 2 to 3 days method.
(I know I'm very late with joing the party)
The problem is I can only brew on the weekends.
Normally I'm ready to pitch the yeast on a Sunday afternoon and I'm not 100% sure if the fermentation would be fully completed within 9 days so that I would have time to soft crash and then dry hop and be ready for kegging by the second Saturday .
I also don't have any Biofine so would use gelatine in the keg.
Would it be better to stretch it out over 3 weeks than trying to fit everything into two weeks and hoping the yeast is done on time?
My usual method for IPAs is a two week process of fermenting for 9 or 10 days and then dry hopping for 3 or 4 days at fermentation temperature so the fermentation can continue if needed.
The beers have been good but haven't blown me away so I would like to try the cold crash and then dry hop cold for 2 to 3 days method.
(I know I'm very late with joing the party)
The problem is I can only brew on the weekends.
Normally I'm ready to pitch the yeast on a Sunday afternoon and I'm not 100% sure if the fermentation would be fully completed within 9 days so that I would have time to soft crash and then dry hop and be ready for kegging by the second Saturday .
I also don't have any Biofine so would use gelatine in the keg.
Would it be better to stretch it out over 3 weeks than trying to fit everything into two weeks and hoping the yeast is done on time?
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Depending on yeast health, I'd be a bit surprised if fermentation wasn't complete within a week, 7 days. But I typically take a hydrometer reading at around day 7 which is typically a day or so AFTER visual signs of fermentation is complete. On average, I'm soft-crashing around day 9 and then dry hopping around day 11-12 and kegging around day 14-15. I think my typical schedule is actually conservative as Im all but certain most of my fermentations are done around day 5 or 6 at the latest. But I don't push it and I just stick to this schedule typically. SO I think you can still squeeze this into a 2 week regimen easily. The key here is that when you soft crash, you should be pretty confident that fermentation is done done. So I think your schedule is somewhat conservative. If it eases your mind, take a hydrometer sample at about day 7 if that equates to a day or two after visual signs of fermentation has passed and then take another sample a couple days afterwards. If the readings are the same - do soft crash prior to dry hopping. So build a little extra volume into your next recipe to accomodate extra hydro if needed.Still have to plan one of these in.
My usual method for IPAs is a two week process of fermenting for 9 or 10 days and then dry hopping for 3 or 4 days at fermentation temperature so the fermentation can continue if needed.
The beers have been good but haven't blown me away so I would like to try the cold crash and then dry hop cold for 2 to 3 days method.
(I know I'm very late with joing the party)
The problem is I can only brew on the weekends.
Normally I'm ready to pitch the yeast on a Sunday afternoon and I'm not 100% sure if the fermentation would be fully completed within 9 days so that I would have time to soft crash and then dry hop and be ready for kegging by the second Saturday .
I also don't have any Biofine so would use gelatine in the keg.
Would it be better to stretch it out over 3 weeks than trying to fit everything into two weeks and hoping the yeast is done on time?
Shenanigans
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your feedback
I only have space for one fermenter in my temp controlled brew fridge and have always brewed up a few beers at the same time and used it for the other styles.
The normal IPAs are just brewed from start to finish in a 17oC basement with US-05 which is not always fully finished within 10 days. I'll need to add it to the fridge if I want to cold crash so I might just up the temperature to 21oC on day 6 or 7 to make sure it's finished on time.
Looking forward to trying the new (to me) method and see if it results in a better IPA.
Hopefully I can fit it in soon but I never find time to brew in the Summer months so it might not be until October.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
Just soft crash the IPA as long as you want so your schedule works out. I just soft crashed my WC IPA for over 2 weeks and it sat happily in my freezer waiting for dry hop (I had a bad virus and couldn't be bothered by it.). I usually only wait 2-5 days or so for the soft crash, but longer is no problem if you ask me.Still have to plan one of these in.
My usual method for IPAs is a two week process of fermenting for 9 or 10 days and then dry hopping for 3 or 4 days at fermentation temperature so the fermentation can continue if needed.
The beers have been good but haven't blown me away so I would like to try the cold crash and then dry hop cold for 2 to 3 days method.
(I know I'm very late with joing the party)
The problem is I can only brew on the weekends.
Normally I'm ready to pitch the yeast on a Sunday afternoon and I'm not 100% sure if the fermentation would be fully completed within 9 days so that I would have time to soft crash and then dry hop and be ready for kegging by the second Saturday .
I also don't have any Biofine so would use gelatine in the keg.
Would it be better to stretch it out over 3 weeks than trying to fit everything into two weeks and hoping the yeast is done on time?
JTtilinfinity
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Planning my first attempt at this style tomorrow. Thoughts on this hop bill? Anyone have experience with McKenzie both hot and cold side?
I want to pull some of the dank/pine out of McKenzie for that west coast bitterness but balance with the fruit salad Galaxy/Mosaic combo.
I want to pull some of the dank/pine out of McKenzie for that west coast bitterness but balance with the fruit salad Galaxy/Mosaic combo.
JTtilinfinity
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This is a 100% pils malt, 1.060 OG, with US-05.
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@JTtilinfinity I've never used McKenzie, but the description seems promising. I think your dry hop is overkill for the style. Those are NEIPA hopping rates. I would drop the Galaxy to .5oz and the Mosaic to 1oz. Keep the McKenzie at 3 oz. That way you may be able to see what the new hop brings to the table. In my experience, Mosaic and especially Galaxy can overpower all others...The rest of your recipe is fine. My 2 cents.
ihavenonickname
Well-Known Member
I disagree. I think 4lbs/barrel is pretty standard these days. And for us If you want 5 gallons into a keg that means a 12 oz dry hop on 6 gallons on beer.
@JTtilinfinity i love your recipe plan, thats how I structure my hopping for IPAs, I just have no experience with Mackenzie
But hey no shame if someone wants a smaller dry hop, still can make a delicious beer that way.
@JTtilinfinity i love your recipe plan, thats how I structure my hopping for IPAs, I just have no experience with Mackenzie
But hey no shame if someone wants a smaller dry hop, still can make a delicious beer that way.
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MrClint
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