American IPA The New West Coast IPA

[Dgallo]

Do you just serve off of the top of the stuff that falls out with the Biofine?

If you put it in your serving keg and wait that time, your first 2 pints will be atrociously murky but it will all come out and you’ll be serving clear beer by 3rd or 4th pint.

I personally have been using a secondary as I can purge and close transfer well, so I’ll rack off of it using the floating dip tube to a serving keg

 

[wepeeler]

Do you just serve off of the top of the stuff that falls out with the Biofine?

I add to keg when racking. I usually wait 24-48 hours after the keg has reached 38F or so and pour out about 2 pints. Ultra murky, like @Dgallo said. It gets clearer every day. For lighter beers, I'm usually clear by day 5ish. Only gets clearer from there. Brilliantly clear in a week, and even brighter as the keg conditions. Wonderful stuff.

 

[ihavenonickname]

What dose do you guys like?

 

[wepeeler]

What dose do you guys like?

I'm at 1oz per 5 gal in the keg, and I think @Dgallo said he's at 10ml per 5 gal in the fermenter.

 

[Ulisses4677]

Biofine is intended to be used in cold beer where it is mixed in well. Pro breweries typically use it in line, in a hop back or similar vessel while they are transferring from fermenter to brite tank so that it mixes well. The way I found works the best at the Homebrew level is to use it in a secondary fermenter or keg with close transfer capabilities.


Use the typical process of liquid purging the secondary vessel. when purged, measure out the biofine in a syringe. Then you're going to start unscrewing the pressure relief valve. When your close to unscrewing it all the way, connect the co2 line to your gas bulkhead with low psi and then completely unscrew the prv. Then use the syringe to push the biofine into the keg/fv. Once in, let the gas run for a 10 second to prevent as much o2 from entering as possible. Then screw the prv back in.

After that you’ll close transfer as normal and rock the keg/secondary back and forth a few times to makes sure it’s completely mixed in. After that crash it and wait 3-5 days. After that you’ll be left with crystal clear beer. View attachment 807031View attachment 807032

Looks amazing. What hops did you use?

 

[stickyfinger]

If you use a non-haze-positive yeast like chico in a hoppy beer and then fine it does the hop flavor come across as less than in a hazy ipa?

 

[Dgallo]

Not sure. Here's the link to the product from the manufacturer: Biofine® Clear - 1 kg | BSG | Bulk Brewing & Beer Supply Company

I got think I got this on Amazon for 44.99 or something. Def worth it if you plan on making a lot of clear beer

 

[wepeeler]

I got think I got this on Amazon for 44.99 or something. Def worth it if you plan on making a lot of clear beer

I got mine from morebeer for $44.99. I was showing him the data sheet, as he asked what temps to use it at, and I wasn't 100% sure. I put it straight into the keg.

 

[Dgallo]

Looks amazing. What hops did you use?

This was actually a NZ Pilsner and it was Riwaka, Motueka, Nelson

 

[beervoid]

If you use a non-haze-positive yeast like chico in a hoppy beer and then fine it does the hop flavor come across as less than in a hazy ipa?

In my experience if you dont use enough hotside and depending on the fg you get a sweet ipa without balls

 

[pfmeyer]

This is a great thread. Glad to read posts from brewers discussing this style of beer. I’m going to be snarky, sorry, but IPA can be clear and still have amazing hop bitterness, flavor and aroma!

 

[DrGMG]

 

[beervoid]

This is a great thread. Glad to read posts from brewers discussing this style of beer. I’m going to be snarky, sorry, but IPA can be clear and still have amazing hop bitterness, flavor and aroma!

Maybe I should elaborate on my above comment, what I meant to say is if you are following a hazy style ipa recipe and using chico yeast, you def miss the extra kettle additions which are necessary for a clear/bitter beer

 

[Dgallo]

Maybe I should elaborate on my above comment, what I meant to say is if you are following a hazy style ipa recipe and using chico yeast, you def miss the extra kettle additions which are necessary for a clear/bitter beer

I will say that most us based breweries doing this style are truly just hitting their target ibus from their bittering addition and then waiting until whirlpool again to hop it again. That’s not to say I don’t disagree with you as I will use atleast 2 oz in boil to set that “foundation” for the flavor profile to build off

 

[beervoid]

I will say that most us based breweries doing this style are truly just hitting their target ibus from their bittering addition and then waiting until whirlpool again to hop it again. That’s not to say I don’t disagree with you as I will use atleast 2 oz in boil to set that “foundation” for the flavor profile to build off

Ah I count whirlpool as kettle additions but yes shifting towards later additions.
I've read contrary experiences though, some prefer late additions vs whirlpool, I think it's very pallet specific. Boil seems to bring other flavors to the table, probably cause of thiol extraction. I also read people getting less IBU from late vs whirlpool so it all seems a bit black magic to me.

 

[NZhomebrew]

Regarding biofine, are there any issues with it sitting in the serving keg while getting purged during fermentation?

 

[ihavenonickname]

Regarding biofine, are there any issues with it sitting in the serving keg while getting purged during fermentation?

I think that’s a great idea. My general SOP is to use fermentation co2 to purge a dry hopping Kegmenter and a serving keg. Just pre loading the serving keg with biofine sounds great. I would imagine the biofine has some advantages over gelatin for this purpose.

 

[Jesse Runowski]

Brewed this exact recipe a month ago, turned out fantastic! Everyone loves it. Been making hazies for awhile, it was nice to be able to keep it simple on brew day.

Anyone else thinking about different hop varieties that would play nice with this style? I wouldn't mind some classic C hop combos. Maybe Cascade / Centennial with a little Citra?

Used 15ml of Biofine, looks good but not clear. Might try 20ml next time.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I did chinook, cascade, and citra on mine. Turned out excellent, unfortunately it went quickly but here is a pic

Edit.. and a better pic to show clarity.

 

[Jesse Runowski]

I did chinook, cascade, and citra on mine.

I might have to try that next! it's been awhile since I've used Chinook. I really love that hop.

Nice! Super clear brew! Did you use biofine?

 

[kingmatt]

Anyone here try ALDC yet? Been seeing it referenced lately.
Its not cheap. Morebeer - aldc enzyme

I got some ALDC and used it in a West Coast IPA with good results. I have a NEIPA going right now that I crashed, dumped my yeast, raised the temp back up to 60F, added the ALDC and dry hopped...we shall see.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Sounds like a good product to add to the arsenal.

Edit.. I'm not sure I grasp how diacetyl and hop creep are related, or how stopping diacetyl will eliminate hop creep if you still have a fermentation kick up after dryhopping.

 

[Dgallo]

Sounds like a good product to add to the arsenal.

Edit.. I'm not sure I grasp how diacetyl and hop creep are related, or how stopping diacetyl will eliminate hop creep if you still have a fermentation kick up after dryhopping.

If I understand the product correctly it doesn’t prevent hop creep, it only prevents hop creep from creating diacetyl

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

If I understand the product correctly it doesn’t prevent hop creep, it only prevents hop creep from creating diacetyl

In more beers description the first sentence says: stop hop creep before it happens

 

[Noob_Brewer]

In more beers description the first sentence says: stop hop creep before it happens

stop hop creep before it happens

Marketing genius?! If you don't get hop creep when using the product, it "MUST" have been the product that prevented it! LMAO

 

[Dgallo]

In more beers description the first sentence says: stop hop creep before it happens

That’s would mean two things then. It either makes yeast ineffective or denatures the enzyme in hops that break down sugars. I’ll have to look into it more

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Yeah, it says you can add it when you pitch yeast so it must not stop the yeast in any way. I'm thinking it just prevents diacetyl and throwing hop creep in there is a marketing point.

 

[stickyfinger]

Yeah, it says you can add it when you pitch yeast so it must not stop the yeast in any way. I'm thinking it just prevents diacetyl and throwing hop creep in there is a marketing point.

It shouldn’t have any impact on hop creep at all. It just throws a wrench into the chemical pathway leading to diacetyl formation. There is a precursor compound to diacetyl that is enzymatically changed into another compound, so diacetyl shouldn’t really form

 

[Spivey24]

Brewed this as-is and yep, still taste cat piss with simcoe. It’s been a long time since I tried it, so thought I would give it another shot. Will be sticking to my house IPA recipes.

 

[Dgallo]

Brewed this as-is and yep, still taste cat piss with simcoe. It’s been a long time since I tried it, so thought I would give it another shot. Will be sticking to my house IPA recipes.

You must taste that in any hop high in 4mhp. Studies are showing that a good amount of people are sensitive to it. I’d stay away from thiolized yeast strains as well