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Jester,

Awesome work. Where did you get the Chrome Hole covers for the front of the shanks??

I can't find them anywhere!!!

-Craig
 
@Maltose - The cabinet is basically face frame construction. I used 1x poplar for the surround and 1/4 ply for the panel. It is not glued to the freezer, if that is your question. It is attached to the dolly underneath the freezer. I used just a couple inches of double sided sticky tape at the top back corner offsets to keep it in tight.

@cruelkix - northernbrewer has them, as does morebeer, and williamsbrewing.
 
@cruelkix - northernbrewer has them, as does morebeer, and williamsbrewing.

Sweet. Thanks. In case anyone else reads this, MoreBeer had the best price for the parts ($3.25 ea) and for shipping. 4 of them cost me 18.87 after shipping costs.
 
Jester, a couple more questions:

What did you use as grout? silicone caulk? nothing?

What are you using as a prop for the lid? I'm just using a stick & it's scary as hell leaning into the keezer with a hundred + lbs waiting to crash down on my head!
 
Man, I gotta hand it to you Jester, this thread singlehandedly got me permission with SWMBO to build a bar. She said, "if you can build something that looks even half as nice as that Keezer Bar, you can put that anywhere in the house." Thanks dude! ;)

I'll post my own build thread eventually, I'm working on obtaining a freezer at the moment but may have scored a 8 cu ft one for $5 ("looks shabby but is fully functional" OKAY!) on Craigslist.
 
Jester, a couple more questions:

What did you use as grout? silicone caulk? nothing?

What are you using as a prop for the lid? I'm just using a stick & it's scary as hell leaning into the keezer with a hundred + lbs waiting to crash down on my head!

I was originally going to use some silicon but in the end I was too lazy to do anything. So far even big spills have not been a real problem - they close fit keeps most out (the tiles fit so tight you can't even slide a piece of paper in) .

As for a prop, I am just using a stick, too. Maybe need to design a CO2 powered pneumatic lift! :D

Man, I gotta hand it to you Jester, this thread singlehandedly got me permission with SWMBO to build a bar. She said, "if you can build something that looks even half as nice as that Keezer Bar, you can put that anywhere in the house." Thanks dude! ;

Glad I could help! :mug:
 
Jester, I had to thank you for the motivation. I asked the wife for the resources to build a keezer for my birthday. Going for cost, I made the mistake of pitching 'through-collar' designs. She didn't like those, I showed her the kegerator thread and she clicked through almost every page. Just my luck, she settled on your design. Clearly I don't have your carpentry skills, but I am lucky in that my Mom and Dad were both excellent carpenters. My Mom gave me all the tools like a good miter chop saw, routers, jigs, clamps, etc.

I ordered up all the stuff, told my boss I need a week off of work and voila. I am now a Jester Copycat.

Mine was a bit different in that (thankfully) I only need 5/8 sidewall clearance, I went with fake stiles, glued and screwed to 1/8 mdf panels painted flat black. They are a facade only and are not vented, they mount to the cart underneath, and to the collar via spacers. All wood is poplar, as I am waaaay too cheap to buy oak after all the guts. But yep, 6 perlicks--all mine...and your keezer pic was on my workshop wall the entire time for inspiration. Thanks for this thread, really couldn't have done it without you.

PS-Still have some cosmetics to do like base trim and a few other things, also may overhaul my coffin a bit.

IMG_2880.jpg

IMG_2930.jpg

IMG_2875.jpg
 
Jester, I had to thank you for the motivation. I asked the wife for the resources to build a keezer for my birthday. Going for cost, I made the mistake of pitching 'through-collar' designs. She didn't like those, I showed her the kegerator thread and she clicked through almost every page. Just my luck, she settled on your design. Clearly I don't have your carpentry skills, but I am lucky in that my Mom and Dad were both excellent carpenters. My Mom gave me all the tools like a good miter chop saw, routers, jigs, clamps, etc.

I ordered up all the stuff, told my boss I need a week off of work and voila. I am now a Jester Copycat.

Mine was a bit different in that (thankfully) I only need 5/8 sidewall clearance, I went with fake stiles, glued and screwed to 1/8 mdf panels painted flat black. They are a facade only and are not vented, they mount to the cart underneath, and to the collar via spacers. All wood is poplar, as I am waaaay too cheap to buy oak after all the guts. But yep, 6 perlicks--all mine...and your keezer pic was on my workshop wall the entire time for inspiration. Thanks for this thread, really couldn't have done it without you.

PS-Still have some cosmetics to do like base trim and a few other things, also may overhaul my coffin a bit.

Looks great!
 
I may be a poor grad student, but I am definitely building one of these! Luckily I have some mad carpentry skills, and can even make old ratty 2x4's look kinda nice.
I hate to ask this question, cause I know it has been asked several times before, but I was curious about how you secured the lid. Are the two t-nuts enough to take the full weight of the lid when open? And you mentioned you used screws, would a bolt work better, or are the screws enough.
Anyhow, great job on the keezer. I have been drooling over this thread long enough, so I figure I had better start posting and get my own Jester-brand keezer built!
 
I may be a poor grad student, but I am definitely building one of these! Luckily I have some mad carpentry skills, and can even make old ratty 2x4's look kinda nice.
I hate to ask this question, cause I know it has been asked several times before, but I was curious about how you secured the lid. Are the two t-nuts enough to take the full weight of the lid when open? And you mentioned you used screws, would a bolt work better, or are the screws enough.
Anyhow, great job on the keezer. I have been drooling over this thread long enough, so I figure I had better start posting and get my own Jester-brand keezer built!

I used a sliding lid on mine, but I would expect screws would be fine. Use larger ones (#8 or so) and deck screws - not drywall. Most of the lid force is downwards (that is, perpendicular to the screw) rather than out, so I would not expect problems. If you're really worried use bolts through the 2x4.
 
I may be a poor grad student, but I am definitely building one of these! Luckily I have some mad carpentry skills, and can even make old ratty 2x4's look kinda nice.
I hate to ask this question, cause I know it has been asked several times before, but I was curious about how you secured the lid. Are the two t-nuts enough to take the full weight of the lid when open? And you mentioned you used screws, would a bolt work better, or are the screws enough.
Anyhow, great job on the keezer. I have been drooling over this thread long enough, so I figure I had better start posting and get my own Jester-brand keezer built!

The screws are really just there to keep the lid from sliding forward when the lid is closed - there is a 3/4" plywood lip that goes all the way around the sides and front. It isn't going anywhere! Bolts would certainly be stronger, but not necessary.
 
Use larger ones (#8 or so) and deck screws - not drywall. Most of the lid force is downwards (that is, perpendicular to the screw) rather than out, so I would not expect problems. If you're really worried use bolts through the 2x4.

I used either #8 or 10 - can't remember - but they were machine screws, not wood or drywall.
 
Jester what spacing did you use between taps and what height from the drip tray were they? I re-examined my freezer and determined that I can squeeze 7 kegs inside if I leave the CO2 tank outside. So now I plan on building a 7 tap coffin box as close to your own as possible.
 
The drip tray has a drain in it, and there is a hose from it to a growler in the freezer

:mug:

aw man... I need to engineer a drain in my drip tray...

is yours engineered in a way that it all drains nicely or is it pretty much flat? Cus mine is, I'm gonna try to bend it a little and make a slope
 
Jester what spacing did you use between taps and what height from the drip tray were they? I re-examined my freezer and determined that I can squeeze 7 kegs inside if I leave the CO2 tank outside. So now I plan on building a 7 tap coffin box as close to your own as possible.

Sorry it took so long - totally forgot!

4.5" between, 11" up. That's the centerline for the shank holes. I arrived at those figures by placing pint glasses side by side and picking a convenient spacing, and the height was just high enough to easily fit a pitcher under it. Of course, with the taps so convenient I have yet to fill a pitcher. Filled some growlers for immediate consumption at remote locations, however.
 
aw man... I need to engineer a drain in my drip tray...

is yours engineered in a way that it all drains nicely or is it pretty much flat? Cus mine is, I'm gonna try to bend it a little and make a slope

It's just a flat bottom, so it definitely needs a wipe out from time to time.
 
Well crap, like so many of you I thought I was content to just build a collar with taps on it... then just now I saw this thread... so much for the thought that it would be a simple conversion.
 
My keezer is coming along, not sure if I am allowed to link out or not but here is what I have so far:

http://fcba.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=105751698

Still waiting on my taps and lines to arrive, then I'll measure up the coffin box and start drilling holes for the shanks. I still haven't found a stain I like yet, I would like to go with something reddish to compliment the black body of the freezer.
 
d@mn you all have allot of woodworking skills for a bunch of drunks.
i am impressed and inspired. I know im late to the discussion (as i am with every thread here apparently, but i thought id offer some insight, and ask a question.
Hey Jester, quick question if you're monitoring this thread. The holes in the top to the coffin. Do you use any "edge protection" to prevent any abrasion into the beer lines?
at your local autoparts store there are tubes of "window weld" in the glue isle. its black urethane, its the same stuff they put in high performance engine mounts for race cars, so it should hold up to the stress well. 13$ a tube, goes into a caulk gun, but you will have to build up a bushing around it, id recommend building a mold with cardboard, and masking tape, filling it up, then pulling off the mold.



What are you using as a prop for the lid? I'm just using a stick & it's scary as hell leaning into the keezer with a hundred + lbs waiting to crash down on my head!
so again, from the automotive world.
hatchbacks. if you have ever taken the hatch off of a hatchback (those things are effin heavy) if it were me, wile i was at the autoparts store, i'd tell the guy behind the counter that i needed a hatch support piston for a 91 mazda 323. or a geo metro im pretty sure one should do you. placement is on you though cause im not sure how much your lid weighs, but those hatches are upwards of 100 lbs.



now my turn for an annoying question.
where the eff do i get the regulator that allows freezers to cool at refrigerator temperature?

thanks in advance.
broke builder
 
d@mn you all have allot of woodworking skills for a bunch of drunks.
i am impressed and inspired. I know im late to the discussion (as i am with every thread here apparently, but i thought id offer some insight, and ask a question.

at your local autoparts store there are tubes of "window weld" in the glue isle. its black urethane, its the same stuff they put in high performance engine mounts for race cars, so it should hold up to the stress well. 13$ a tube, goes into a caulk gun, but you will have to build up a bushing around it, id recommend building a mold with cardboard, and masking tape, filling it up, then pulling off the mold.




so again, from the automotive world.
hatchbacks. if you have ever taken the hatch off of a hatchback (those things are effin heavy) if it were me, wile i was at the autoparts store, i'd tell the guy behind the counter that i needed a hatch support piston for a 91 mazda 323. or a geo metro im pretty sure one should do you. placement is on you though cause im not sure how much your lid weighs, but those hatches are upwards of 100 lbs.



now my turn for an annoying question.
where the eff do i get the regulator that allows freezers to cool at refrigerator temperature?

thanks in advance.
broke builder

They are available at most homebrew shops. But here is what you are looking for:
http://stores.kegconnection.com/Categories.bok?category=*Components%3AThermostats

I highly recommend Kegconnection.

AHS also has a digital version.
http://www.austinhomebrew.com/index.php?cPath=178_40_366
 
at your local autoparts store there are tubes of "window weld" in the glue isle. its black urethane, its the same stuff they put in high performance engine mounts for race cars, so it should hold up to the stress well. 13$ a tube, goes into a caulk gun, but you will have to build up a bushing around it, id recommend building a mold with cardboard, and masking tape, filling it up, then pulling off the mold.

I'm sure it would work, but I think you are looking at a lot of effort to solve a non-problem. The lines are not subjected to any real movement that would require that kind of protection. There has been zero chafing in my beer lines.

Other temp controllers to consider besides the Johnson controllers mentioned by Ciliorozo would be Ranco or Love controllers.

:mug:
 
Hey Jester,

Just curious, how is the keezer holding up? The exhaust fan still working properly? I saw taht someone asked a year ago or so, and just wondered if everything is still operating at peak performance.
 

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