@cruelkix - northernbrewer has them, as does morebeer, and williamsbrewing.
Jester, a couple more questions:
What did you use as grout? silicone caulk? nothing?
What are you using as a prop for the lid? I'm just using a stick & it's scary as hell leaning into the keezer with a hundred + lbs waiting to crash down on my head!
Man, I gotta hand it to you Jester, this thread singlehandedly got me permission with SWMBO to build a bar. She said, "if you can build something that looks even half as nice as that Keezer Bar, you can put that anywhere in the house." Thanks dude! ;
Jester, I had to thank you for the motivation. I asked the wife for the resources to build a keezer for my birthday. Going for cost, I made the mistake of pitching 'through-collar' designs. She didn't like those, I showed her the kegerator thread and she clicked through almost every page. Just my luck, she settled on your design. Clearly I don't have your carpentry skills, but I am lucky in that my Mom and Dad were both excellent carpenters. My Mom gave me all the tools like a good miter chop saw, routers, jigs, clamps, etc.
I ordered up all the stuff, told my boss I need a week off of work and voila. I am now a Jester Copycat.
Mine was a bit different in that (thankfully) I only need 5/8 sidewall clearance, I went with fake stiles, glued and screwed to 1/8 mdf panels painted flat black. They are a facade only and are not vented, they mount to the cart underneath, and to the collar via spacers. All wood is poplar, as I am waaaay too cheap to buy oak after all the guts. But yep, 6 perlicks--all mine...and your keezer pic was on my workshop wall the entire time for inspiration. Thanks for this thread, really couldn't have done it without you.
PS-Still have some cosmetics to do like base trim and a few other things, also may overhaul my coffin a bit.
I may be a poor grad student, but I am definitely building one of these! Luckily I have some mad carpentry skills, and can even make old ratty 2x4's look kinda nice.
I hate to ask this question, cause I know it has been asked several times before, but I was curious about how you secured the lid. Are the two t-nuts enough to take the full weight of the lid when open? And you mentioned you used screws, would a bolt work better, or are the screws enough.
Anyhow, great job on the keezer. I have been drooling over this thread long enough, so I figure I had better start posting and get my own Jester-brand keezer built!
I may be a poor grad student, but I am definitely building one of these! Luckily I have some mad carpentry skills, and can even make old ratty 2x4's look kinda nice.
I hate to ask this question, cause I know it has been asked several times before, but I was curious about how you secured the lid. Are the two t-nuts enough to take the full weight of the lid when open? And you mentioned you used screws, would a bolt work better, or are the screws enough.
Anyhow, great job on the keezer. I have been drooling over this thread long enough, so I figure I had better start posting and get my own Jester-brand keezer built!
Use larger ones (#8 or so) and deck screws - not drywall. Most of the lid force is downwards (that is, perpendicular to the screw) rather than out, so I would not expect problems. If you're really worried use bolts through the 2x4.
The drip tray has a drain in it, and there is a hose from it to a growler in the freezer
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Jester what spacing did you use between taps and what height from the drip tray were they? I re-examined my freezer and determined that I can squeeze 7 kegs inside if I leave the CO2 tank outside. So now I plan on building a 7 tap coffin box as close to your own as possible.
aw man... I need to engineer a drain in my drip tray...
is yours engineered in a way that it all drains nicely or is it pretty much flat? Cus mine is, I'm gonna try to bend it a little and make a slope
Well crap, like so many of you I thought I was content to just build a collar with taps on it... then just now I saw this thread... so much for the thought that it would be a simple conversion.
at your local autoparts store there are tubes of "window weld" in the glue isle. its black urethane, its the same stuff they put in high performance engine mounts for race cars, so it should hold up to the stress well. 13$ a tube, goes into a caulk gun, but you will have to build up a bushing around it, id recommend building a mold with cardboard, and masking tape, filling it up, then pulling off the mold.Hey Jester, quick question if you're monitoring this thread. The holes in the top to the coffin. Do you use any "edge protection" to prevent any abrasion into the beer lines?
so again, from the automotive world.What are you using as a prop for the lid? I'm just using a stick & it's scary as hell leaning into the keezer with a hundred + lbs waiting to crash down on my head!
d@mn you all have allot of woodworking skills for a bunch of drunks.
i am impressed and inspired. I know im late to the discussion (as i am with every thread here apparently, but i thought id offer some insight, and ask a question.
at your local autoparts store there are tubes of "window weld" in the glue isle. its black urethane, its the same stuff they put in high performance engine mounts for race cars, so it should hold up to the stress well. 13$ a tube, goes into a caulk gun, but you will have to build up a bushing around it, id recommend building a mold with cardboard, and masking tape, filling it up, then pulling off the mold.
so again, from the automotive world.
hatchbacks. if you have ever taken the hatch off of a hatchback (those things are effin heavy) if it were me, wile i was at the autoparts store, i'd tell the guy behind the counter that i needed a hatch support piston for a 91 mazda 323. or a geo metro im pretty sure one should do you. placement is on you though cause im not sure how much your lid weighs, but those hatches are upwards of 100 lbs.
now my turn for an annoying question.
where the eff do i get the regulator that allows freezers to cool at refrigerator temperature?
thanks in advance.
broke builder
at your local autoparts store there are tubes of "window weld" in the glue isle. its black urethane, its the same stuff they put in high performance engine mounts for race cars, so it should hold up to the stress well. 13$ a tube, goes into a caulk gun, but you will have to build up a bushing around it, id recommend building a mold with cardboard, and masking tape, filling it up, then pulling off the mold.