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Is the winch wholly supported by those delrin blocks?
Yes
The support blocks are 5" long and inside both channels.
Seems somewhat perilous to be lifting so much weight supported by such a small area, if that is the case...
200# is not a problem

Here is the side view.
Winch001.jpg



Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
shortyjacob, nice system! Reminds me of the auto manufacturing plants i've been in with the winch and everything lol. You could get some siphoning hoses rolling so all you have to do is lift one vessel instead of lifting it and tipping it.
 
shortyjacob, nice system! Reminds me of the auto manufacturing plants i've been in with the winch and everything lol. You could get some siphoning hoses rolling so all you have to do is lift one vessel instead of lifting it and tipping it.

Yeah, not sure if you can see it, but on the bottom of the pot that I'm tipping is a ball valve. It's actually what I hold on to to tip the pot. I spent like $20 putting the stupid thing in, then realized that it drains SLOWLY, (I was losing multiple degrees of strike temp!) and it's far easier to just tip the pot :drunk:.
 
Yeah, not sure if you can see it, but on the bottom of the pot that I'm tipping is a ball valve. It's actually what I hold on to to tip the pot. I spent like $20 putting the stupid thing in, then realized that it drains SLOWLY, (I was losing multiple degrees of strike temp!) and it's far easier to just tip the pot :drunk:.

lol i see. Makes a lot of sense. How big is it? Maybe you need a bigger one. Might be a huge pain to replace though.

Also, you could get one of those keg glove type things off the net and throw a little insulation on your rig fairly easily. Might keep you from losing so much temp.
 
lol i see. Makes a lot of sense. How big is it? Maybe you need a bigger one. Might be a huge pain to replace though.

Also, you could get one of those keg glove type things off the net and throw a little insulation on your rig fairly easily. Might keep you from losing so much temp.

It's a 1/2" full bore ball valve....The pot itself isn't that heavy...and I only batch sparge, so it's just way easier to dump it in :ban: I just wish I hadn't wasted the money!
 
Sweet setup!
The only thing that catches my eye is the one point lifting. It would be safer to hook two points from the winch hook to the handles of the pot/keg. But that can go on your list of 'what can I pimp out more?'

B
 
Sweet setup!
The only thing that catches my eye is the one point lifting. It would be safer to hook two points from the winch hook to the handles of the pot/keg. But that can go on your list of 'what can I pimp out more?'

B

Thanks! What do you mean by two points? I currently have the winch hook attach to the threaded bar, which has too hooks to hook the handles of the pot/keg. Do you mean I should just have cables going from the winch hook to the handle hooks?

It's actually VERY stable. Since the pots are full of water, the center of gravity is down in the middle of the pot, so even if the hooks WERE imbalanced, it doesn't show up much with the pot, as the pot just weighs everything down. I actually copied this movable hook system from what we use in many of the plants I work in for huge loads...
 
You can have mine.... I dunno how you're going to get her up there... but she knows how to plug herself in....

LOL.. I laughed at that too... I was thinking that "If I had an electric wench, I'd just tell her to carry those carboys for me!"

When you talk to the electric wench, do you have to finish every sentence with "Arrrr?"
:D
 
Brew tree..... really... seriously a tree to be used for brewing.
Gotta see a photo of that?

LOL.. I can only imagine the visual you have in your head about now!

It's just a metal structure for holding the keggles. brewpots, mash tun, etc... It does so with a 'vertical' design relying on gravity for transferring liquids, as opposed to a horizontal one which generally relies on pumps to transfer the liquids.....
 
Thanks! What do you mean by two points? I currently have the winch hook attach to the threaded bar, which has too hooks to hook the handles of the pot/keg. Do you mean I should just have cables going from the winch hook to the handle hooks?

Exactly! It automatically centers the load... while still being adjustable for width...
 
When you talk to the electric wench, do you have to finish every sentence with "Arrrr?"
:D

Only when I want to add dramatic effects...

I also considered commenting on the following...

i only have a 3ton chain hoist to mount. :(

...But it's just more fun to let people make up their own mind on how to take that one...
 
Exactly! It automatically centers the load... while still being adjustable for width...

The problem with that is without the rigid bar to act as a "spreader", thinner walled pots will tend to bow in at the handles then, especially since I couldn't use very long cables from the winch hook if I wanted to still be able to lift pots high. Think of putting an elastic band around two fingers spread apart, then pulling on the elastic band. It will pull your fingers together. Same with the handles of the pot.

Since we are talking about liquids in a pot, with a center of gravity FAR below the pivot point of hook attaching to the threaded rod, it's already very stable. It takes the hooks on the rod being off by at least an inch or more from center before there's any tipping, and even then it's a stable tipping, (i.e., if I put the hooks on the rod so one is near the edge of the rod and the other near the center, the pot will have a definite tilt to it, but it won't want to tilt farther).
 
I'm just commenting on your question.. not telling you how to do it.. Good point about the thin walled kettles and what not..

Ultimately, you have to assess what is best in your unique situation, tempered/mixed with what you learn in the way of suggestions from others...
:mug:
 
LOL.. I can only imagine the visual you have in your head about now!

It's just a metal structure for holding the keggles. brewpots, mash tun, etc... It does so with a 'vertical' design relaying on gravity for transferring liquids, as opposed to a horizontal one which generally relies on pumps to transfer the liquids.....

Yes, my imagination was going crazy with that. About to weeks later I went Doh, after seeing another thread showing off their new brew tree!
Just hope that missed the quotable quotes thread :drunk:
 
How do you power the 12V winch on the ceiling. Car battery??

Yeah, old car battery that stopped being able to reliably start my car. Didn't return it for the core charge when I got a new one, (so out like $20 or whatever), but it works fine for the winch. It lasts about a summer's worth of twice a month brewing, easily, on a single charge.
 
RE: brewing indoors in an enclosed space- one of the indoor dangers of using the propane or NG burners we typically use for brewing, Banjo/Bayou/Jet etc., is that at higher heat output settings they do not burn (anywhere near) all of the gas supplied to them. The CO or CO2 monitor will not catch that. You end with a bunch of raw gas build-up in the enclosed area. You would need a hydrocarbon detector to know if you are reaching dangerous levels. Hence, the fascination with E-brewing rigs by all the apartment dwellers.
 
RE: brewing indoors in an enclosed space- one of the indoor dangers of using the propane or NG burners we typically use for brewing, Banjo/Bayou/Jet etc., is that at higher heat output settings they do not burn (anywhere near) all of the gas supplied to them. The CO or CO2 monitor will not catch that. You end with a bunch of raw gas build-up in the enclosed area. You would need a hydrocarbon detector to know if you are reaching dangerous levels. Hence, the fascination with E-brewing rigs by all the apartment dwellers.

That's a good point. Wouldn't I still smell the propane long before it hit LFL levels though? Unless all the H2S is getting burned up, but the propane not....

In any case, I made it through another winter without blowing myself up or going to sleep from CO....and my flames are always a pretty blue, so I think that means decent combustion at the least, right?
 
That's a good point. Wouldn't I still smell the propane long before it hit LFL levels though? Unless all the H2S is getting burned up, but the propane not....
Depends on whether you want to test Darwin's theory about human H2S sensitivity in a steamy room with hop volatiles and malt aromas. I am sure someone has already tested some version of this, and won an award. Wouldn't hurt to raise the overhead door a foot or so for a little insurance.

and my flames are always a pretty blue, so I think that means decent combustion at the least, right?

I suppose that while brewing in an enclosed room, if the blue starts to look so pretty it becomes beautiful, the worse the combustion is. Oxygen deprivation does makes everything seem better.

Can't recall at the moment what a yellow flame means: +CO?. In my experience I can get a blue flame even though it is hovering 8 inches above the burner, and obviously not burning all the gas.
 
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