The cure for your short hose troubles

[nathan]

am I understanding correctly that it is desirable to have high pressure on some beers (wheat, saison, etc.) but that with the normal kegorator setup, this results in foamy beers. So the solution for you is to add resistance in the keg in this manner.

You can't turn down the psi, because you want the high level of carbonation.
you can't just have a multi-pressure setup, like the daisy-chained gauges some people have, because you still would need to put 10psi into the keg to keep it carbonated right, and it's the outflow at 10psi that causes it. (though multiple pressures would be good for other reasons, like low carbonation brews).

So the ideal would be a multi-pressure setup, so you can give the right psi to each keg, and then for highly carbed beers under higher pressure, to provide resistance in the dip tube appropriate for that psi or beer style?

If that's the case, has anyone considerred recording their psi settings, and different insert methods, and tracking over time, sharing the info, and seeing if maybe we could make a table that could serve as a rough guide for folks?

 

[nathan]

I think these things would be a nice compliment to the BMBF process.

foaming isn't an issue with that wondrous invention of yours. At least not that I've seen.

 

[Desert_Sky]

Its not the size that matters, its how you use it right?

 

[diatonic]

I'm going to give these a shot, as well as Bobby's suggestion of adding smaller I.D. tubing in the dip tube. I think some people are a bit confused... this WILL NOT affect the carb level of the beer on tap, but can help balance the system. Your carb level will be the same whether you use these or not (based on the temperature and co2 pressure), these just help slow the beer down before it comes out of the tap, reducing foam.

 

[BierMuncher]

foaming isn't an issue with that wondrous invention of yours. At least not that I've seen.

Right, but maybe we wouldn't need to reduce the pressure so much to fill bottles.

I just went home for lunch and found my order on my front porch. I ordered these things yesterday at 4:00PM. <<< [Mod Edit]I order to you dance Mr. Banana. Dance or I'll ban your ban.

 

[nathan]

I eagerly await your testing! my multi-pressure setup is a ways off, so $1 solutions to ease things up in the mean time sound good!

 

[BierMuncher]

I eagerly await your testing! my multi-pressure setup is a ways off, so $1 solutions to ease things up in the mean time sound good!

Before I left the house, I yanked a charging corny out of the Sanyo upstairs and dropped one in the dip tube. It should be drinkable tomorrow. It's my "Panzy Ale". A very low ABV (3.3%) beer for the SWMBO who loves her yellow fizzy beer. It has to be really carb'd up for proper taste and mouthfeel (ala light lager).

Hopefully I can keep the gas around 15 and still serve a highly effervescent beer without a 3" head. The other keg in the Sanyo is soda water.

 

[FSR402]

This looks interesting, I may have to try this out for my travel kegs.

 

[nathan]

haha, 3" head! I'm pouring a bohemian pilsner that is more head than beer. I've got to pour, stick finger in head and stir angrily, wait, pour, repeat until I give up on a full pint, drink through head that refuses to die (not bad if it's only 1/4"), then go refill.

 

[pjj2ba]

OK, I tried two (all I had) of the smaller inserts inside a 3/8 beer line hooked to a picnic tap and a disconnect. The results were mixed. The total beer line length was only about 2.5 ft. My test beer was a keg at cellar temp (52 F). While the pour was nice and slow, it did foam more than I cared for. I think the major reason was that you still need some back pressure from a length of hose after the inserts. When I opened the tap, the inserts moved about 8 in. down the tubing making this problem worse. I could see the bubbles forming around the inserts. So it appears as though there is a minimum length of beer line that will be needed after the insert. Of course the beer being relatively warm I'm sure made this issue worse. I'll have to try it on a colder keg.

OK, I did some more testing and I think the problems I had with foaming was with the just the one keg (over carbed). Warrior stopped by on Friday to drop off some grain so of course we sampled some homebrews. On Thursday I moved 4 kegs out to the garage to cool them down so I could pour some samples from kegs that I didn't have room for in the kegerator. I had three kegs set up on 12 psi and they all poured just lovely with the picnic tap on the ~2.5 ft of 3/8 beer line with two of the smaller inserts. These beers were at 40 F, so I think temperature was also an issue with my first test. The 4th beer was my IPA that was just kegged on Wed. and then forced carbed. Even at 20 psi this beer poured very smoothly. Warrior had to leave before I tapped into this beer. Next time.

On Sat. we were heading out to visit my cousin so I quick filled some bottles from these kegs BMBF style by cramming a 12" tube in the end of the same picnic tap. It worked like a charm!

 

[nathan]

on that link to mcmaster carr... which part number are you ordering? It's a long page of stuff that I see when I click it, not sure exactly what it is I'm looking for.

 

[avaserfi]

on that link to mcmaster carr... which part number are you ordering? It's a long page of stuff that I see when I click it, not sure exactly what it is I'm looking for.

I got the part from McMaster.com, part # 74695A58 Bayonet Mixer Nozzle, 5.3" L, 1/4" Blunt Tip $1.38 each

That one worked perfectly for me.

 

[nathan]

thanks! that helps.

 

[bulletproof4age]

Any reason not to order 5.9" ( 1/4" Taper Tip) P/N 74695A12?

Its .6" longer and $.17 cheaper. The only difference I see is in the tip which affects the outer plastic that it comes in which is cut open and thrown away, right? Should have no affect on the actual part used in our application?

 

[pjj2ba]

It is unclear if the insert is bigger on that one, or the extra length is just that of the outer part to make the tapered tip. I would suspect the innards would be exactly the same as that would be cheaper for the manufacturer to make. That being said, it is cheaper. I typically just push a small philips screwdriver in the tip to push the insert out. This would be harder with the taper tip, but one could pull it out the back with some tweezers.

 

[RC0032]

So I did this last night and it took care of the foam issues....now the poor is really slow though

 

[Aleforge]

How much did McMaster charge you guys for ground shipping?

Just curious!

Thanks

 

[avaserfi]

So I did this last night and it took care of the foam issues....now the poor is really slow though

That's kind of the point...

How much did McMaster charge you guys for ground shipping?

Just curious!

Thanks

About $5

 

[bulletproof4age]

So I did this last night and it took care of the foam issues....now the poor is really slow though

Yeah, it's kinda the point. Ability to maintain proper pressure to maintain proper carb, while slowing down pour without the use of long lines.

What pressure are you running?

You might try cutting a little bit at a time off until you find a happy medium for you.

 

[RC0032]

kinda the point

Im running 12 psi of pressure to keep the carb level I like. Im new to kegging and I was getting bad foam (with 8ft lines) so I ordered this dropped it in and not the poor is great just slow. I need beer NOW! Thanks guy in the end I get a better pour. I might cut the lines down to 5'

 

[bulletproof4age]

kinda the point

Im running 12 psi of pressure to keep the carb level I like. Im new to kegging and I was getting bad foam (with 8ft lines) so I ordered this dropped it in and not the poor is great just slow. I need beer NOW! Thanks guy in the end I get a better pour. I might cut the lines down to 5'

Cutting lines may work, but I was actually talking about cutting the plastic insert...If you bought 12 you can mess around with shortening them. If not, I can mess around with mine when they come in.

BTW...you get rid of the legacy?

 

[Bobby_M]

That's the real point. You either go with the pressure reducer or long lines but not both.

 

[RC0032]

Cutting lines may work, but I was actually talking about cutting the plastic insert...If you bought 12 you can mess around with shortening them. If not, I can mess around with mine when they come in.

BTW...you get rid of the legacy?

I bought 3 but if I realized that shipping would cost more than the product I would have purchased 40

No it sits in the garage I washed it last night and drove it a few weeks ago

That's the real point. You either go with the pressure reducer or long lines but not both.

I need to shorten the lines I will take care of that then the faucets come. How short are you all going?

 

[AFAJ Brew Guy]

OK, so I may just be an idiot but I am trying to figure something out here. I have never ordered from McMaster before. When I order these things are the sold each, or per package. In other words if I order 12 of them will I get 12 or 12 dozen? I have a feeling is just 12, but wanted to double check. Thanks guys!

EDIT: Turns out I was being an idiot. 12 is 12. Thanks BM!

 

[Jif]

I just bought a 12-er of these characters. I've got a real foamy keg running in my kegerator right now that's about half full. Can I depressurize the keg, throw these in the tube and have go-time, or is this too much of a sanitation hazard?

 

[pjj2ba]

I depressurized a half full keg and removed the post. In the mean time I had the whole epoxy mixer assembly soaking in some starsan. I made sure it was completely full with no bubbles. Then I held the mixer upside down over the dip tube and pushed the insert out into the tip tube using an ice pick that had been rinsed in starsan. This way I didn't have to actually handle the insert(s). I then reassembled the post and was back in business. No infection.

 

[Jif]

I depressurized a half full keg and removed the post. In the mean time I had the whole epoxy mixer assembly soaking in some starsan. I made sure it was completely full with no bubbles. Then I held the mixer upside down over the dip tube and pushed the insert out into the tip tube using an ice pick that had been rinsed in starsan. This way I didn't have to actually handle the insert(s). I then reassembled the post and was back in business. No infection.

I like your style. I'll be doing this tonight. Any tips on getting the mixes out of those goofy tubes? How many mixers did you use? One or two?

 

[pjj2ba]

I used two inserts for some Belgian beers @ 18 psi and 8 ft beer lines. To get them out, just find something that fits in the small end and just push the insert out. It should come out pretty easily.

 

[GroosBrewz]

Just bought some of these that I am going to try with rootbeer, which is always a foamy mess on a 5 ft cobra.

 

[Jif]

I just threw them in to a Corny with maybe a gallon left. All of the shaking made my Bock look like trub (poured almost immediately, couldn't wait for it to settle!) but cleared up every foaming issue! It had a perfect amount of head and a nice slow pour. This is an amazing find!