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- Nov 17, 2007
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I'm on the 3rd floor, with only 1 electric burner that can get 3gal boiling. I stick to extract here, but I'll drag my AG stuff to my buddy's place if needed.
i too am part of the apartment alliance and do 3.5 gallon boils in about 30-45 minutes with a lid. doing extracts at the moment but plan on going AG when we get us a house.
If your beer has an unwanted cooked corn flavor or worse yet, it tastes like oysters, you might have a DMS problem. DMS (dimethyl sulfides) occur in beer either naturally...
The naturally occurring DMS comes from S-methyl methionine (SMM), a product of malt germination. SMM levels in the malt are reduced when it is roasted and never forms as DMS later in your wort. This makes DMS less of an issue in beers that use roasted malts.
DMS is more of a concern in lighter beers, especially lagers, because the lighter grains do not have the SMM removed from roasting. The levels of SMM in your malt are directly related to the levels of DMS in your wort. DMS breaks off from SMM during the boil of your wort.
As your wort boils, DMS is produced and boiled off. It evaporates and is removed from your beer. Thats good. If you boil your wort with the lid on, the DMS will condense and fall back into the kettle. Thats bad. If you want to avoid DMS, step one is to boil your wort with the lid OFF the brew kettle.
not a problem now, but I live on the mid level of my building and it gets a little toasty during summer, is there an efficient way to keep the wort cool during fermentation when it gets too hot?
I'm an apartment brewer. Me my gf and our dog live in a 450 square foot studio apt. She complains about the smell and the fermentor in the corner of the room but she lives with it.
Sounds like my first apartment in DC. How do you keep your dog from getting a little too nosey?
Sounds like my first apartment in DC. How do you keep your dog from getting a little too nosey?
I'm in an apartment with no balcony and a crappy stove. I built a heatstick Cedar Creek Brewing Company - Homebrewing Electric Heatstick and everything is golden. All-grain full volume boil. But... I would strongly reccomend making sure that whenver you uprgrade your equipment it all nests. heatstick-->IC-->bottling bucket-->cooler-->pot then I'm only losing the space it takes to store the pot.
Do you have any problems with blown breakers or anything, apparently...these thing suck a lot of juice! But, I just might be making one.FreakinA & Coolbeerluke: The heatstick is great. Just for the love of god make sure it/they are plugged into a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) I have a few built into the kitchen but you can also buy them. http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/p991351dt.jpg .
Take a search around HBT as well before you get started. Every electrician in the country appears to be posting here.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/heatstick-questions-why-appliance-cord-why-3-gr-wires-64350/
It's made all the difference for me but it's only useful if you don'tyourself.
Do you have any problems with blown breakers or anything, apparently...these thing suck a lot of juice! But, I just might be making one.
I used to brew in a flat....For you not-so-great boilers check out this tidbit of info I found on Bass Brewing from 1871
"the Burton Brewers achieve the soft agreeable flavour to thier ales by never boiling their worts hard. They use higher quantities of hops and merely simmered them for an extended period of 3 hours or more."
-James Herbert, 'Practical Brewer of Burton-upon-Trent'
However by 1887 they were boiling thier worts hard for 1.5-2 hours.
Austin_LSU: love the thermomter holder. I'm going to try that...