Testing a Co2 Regulator?

[toxick]

Is there a way to test a Co2 regulator to make sure the reading is correct?

I recently bought a 4-body regulator from one of the big online sites, and after hooking it up and letting it force-carb a batch of ale at 10psi for 2 weeks, there is zero carbonation to speak of. No head, no floaty bubbles. The flow out of the tap is also slower than it was for the previous keg, which used a different regulator.

I upped the pressure on the new regulator to 18psi a few days ago, and there seems to be some improvement in the carbonation level. No head yet, but bubbly, and the flow is about what I would expect based on the previous keg hooked up to the same length lines.

So, anyone know of a way to test the output pressure on these regulators?

Thanks

 

[toxick]

Sorry, should also mention I'm keeping these kegs in my fridge, which is set to about 34F.

 

[brewmonk]

first, I seal my kegs with about 20 - 30 psi, THEN deal with serving pressure.

 

[Brewer3401]

Sorry to even think this, but maybe you have a slow leak somewhere, and you're not getting full pressure on your kegs.

From what you said you did - 2 weeks at 10 psi - you should have around 2.20+ volumes of CO2 which should be quite fizzy (toward the low end for typical ale-lagers), but should not be almost flat.

Get a big bucket, fill with water, and see if you see any bubbles from the top of your keg.

A long one that you could put the whole thing in would be best.

Also, do you use a gasket between your cylinder and regulator ?

I've blown down a cylinder once by not using one - they're not expensive - I think they are a must (much cheaper than CO2)

 

[mattd2]

Is there a way to test a Co2 regulator to make sure the reading is correct?

...which used a different regulator.

Do you still have the other regulator. If your new one is busted it will not be an issue with the actual regulator but the low pressure gauge. The guages are delicate and can read faulse if knocked hard/dropped. If you have another regulator with a LP guage with the same thread, size and handedness (is that a word?), it is an easy swap.
Or you could purchase a replacement gauge and Y splitter, remove the guage screw, the splitter in place then both guages into the spitter. Then turn the gas on and you should see the busted gauge is reading lower than it should (if it is busted).

Y splitter & new guage (links for illustration only, check what threads, etc you need)

 

[brewmonk]

ya don't need a big vat of hydro di-oxide, just some soapy water on the connectors works fine....
dish soap keeps it's "bubbleable" nature long enough to detect fairly slow leaks I've had... and 2 foot bubbles for my girls outside.

have you pressurized a keg and checked it with a decent 3rd party pressure gauge? remember the 30 psi and the wet o-ring to seal it.

 

[mattd2]

Sorry to even think this, but maybe you have a slow leak somewhere, and you're not getting full pressure on your kegs.

From what you said you did - 2 weeks at 10 psi - you should have around 2.20+ volumes of CO2 which should be quite fizzy (toward the low end for typical ale-lagers), but should not be almost flat.

Get a big bucket, fill with water, and see if you see any bubbles from the top of your keg.

A long one that you could put the whole thing in would be best.

Also, do you use a gasket between your cylinder and regulator ?

I've blown down a cylinder once by not using one - they're not expensive - I think they are a must (much cheaper than CO2)

I don't think a leak is his problem, if it is on xx psi then it is on xx psi no matter if a bit of CO2 is leaking out. Only thing that would change this is if he turned off the bottle or it ran out then the pressure will drop but you would see that on the LP guage. I would bet $1000 of fake internet money that his gauge has been knocked or just faulty from factory.

 

[toxick]

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

I tested for leaks with soapy water, and everything's tip top. Didn't find any leaks. Pulled the gauge off of the new regulator and put the old one on. The readings were wildly different. I don't remember exactly what the reading was on the "new" gauge (i want to say it was still set to 15psi), but when I hooked up the "old" gauge, it shot right to 25psi. I'm going to get the Y-connector and hook them both up at the same time to see what's what.

I *do* have a gasket between the cylinder and the regulator. It's one of those screw-in o-rings from AHS. Worked just fine with the other regulator. Also, like I said, no leaks that I could find.

I'm going to stop by the LHBS tomorrow at lunch and pick up a Y and extra gauge. Still open to any suggestions anyone may have, though.

Thanks again!

 

[brewmonk]

not to hijack this thread, but you can get your kegs to seal on 18 PSI???

crap, I have to move south!!!!

(i still think that your FIRST reg somehow let your kegs seal properly at a higher pressure)

 

[mattd2]

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

I tested for leaks with soapy water, and everything's tip top. Didn't find any leaks. Pulled the gauge off of the new regulator and put the old one on. The readings were wildly different. I don't remember exactly what the reading was on the "new" gauge (i want to say it was still set to 15psi), but when I hooked up the "old" gauge, it shot right to 25psi. I'm going to get the Y-connector and hook them both up at the same time to see what's what.

I *do* have a gasket between the cylinder and the regulator. It's one of those screw-in o-rings from AHS. Worked just fine with the other regulator. Also, like I said, no leaks that I could find.

I'm going to stop by the LHBS tomorrow at lunch and pick up a Y and extra gauge. Still open to any suggestions anyone may have, though.

Thanks again!

Damn you to quick...
Just had another idea instead of the Y splitter. Just connect you new and old regs together with a bit of tube.
Layout:
Tank - new regulator set at xx psi - tube - old regulator back all the way out so it will not pass any pressure.
Of coarse this will not work if you have check valves

 

[mattd2]

not to hijack this thread, but you can get your kegs to seal on 18 PSI???

crap, I have to move south!!!!

(i still think that your FIRST reg somehow let your kegs seal properly at a higher pressure)

I have got my kegs to seal with no pressure on them, racked into keg with priming sugar, lid on, leave to carb. Not ideal but works for me in a jamb
I find it is mostly to do with the condition of the feet on the lid handle giving enough upwards force to seal the lid.

 

[natefrog255]

Are there places that test regulators to verify if safe and/or work? I received like (4) regulators from a relative that had them for fountain soda but they are pretty old and some are dissembled. I'd hate to toss them and they are salvagable. I'm not sure if regulators go out of code if you will after awhile.

I also got a bunch of cold plates that not entirely sure what to do with besides maybe building a jockey box. I could probably try to sell them I suppose.