Temperature Controlled Burners, Brutus, Banjo BG14, Piloted Honeywell Valve Questions

[atoyot]

Thanks

 

[drkwoods]

Ok I have a problem. The gas valve will not open. the pilot light stays lit in the on position and i have 24v to the gas valve but it wont open?

so we are clear it is the same Honeywell 8200 thermostat

The "TR" terminal goes to terminal 14 (24v+) and terminal 13 goes to the positive side of the transformer

The "TH" terminal goes to the negative side of the transformer

I only have 2 wires to the 2 terminals on the valve right ?

Just wanted to confirm this is the correct way to wire the valve??

 

[flutch]

Thanks for this info! This was just what I was looking for!

Flutch

 

[Bernieol]

Guys, this thread has been very helpful and I am at the point of where HI SALENITY was when he couln't get the gas valves to open. Here's what I understand:

The gas valve will click when I switch the HOA to H (bypassing the PID), but no gas comes out. That's because I have an adjustable 0-30 psi regulator and I need to be at or below 0.5 psi coming. As kladue pointed out, the valves shut above 0.5 psi to prevent accidents.

Can I dial my regulator back (using a gauge that I would have to add) to get it under 0.5 psi? My reason for doing that is that I am using Lonnie Mac's gas beam approach (and not black pipe like Jlandin) and once I am done with the mash in and sparge, I just need to boil and I can turn up the boil pressure and forget about the other burners.

The orifice you are talking about drilling out to 3/32....the is the brass fitting with the small hole that screws into the end of the BG14, right? (I know this sounds stupid but I want to be sure and not have to wait for parts I screwed up.)

You guys spoke of a LP conversion kit for the pilot. I didn't get a conversion kit that I could find...it it necessary to have one or will I have such a small flame that the thermocouple won't work?

Thanks, Bernie

 

[kladue]

Backing a high pressure regulator down to .5 PSI usually is not a good thing, the response is so bad that when the pressure is right and the valve opens it will not maintain pressure and the burner pops and goes out. Sell the high pressure regulator and get a Marshall 290 from a RV supply house and save the time trying to make the high pressure work. If you do not want to drill the burner orifice out, the folks at Williams brewing supply will be glad to sell a conversion valve for that purpose. As to the pilot propane orifice, usually a small metal piece in the bag with the pilot burner, a couple wrenches and 5 minutes to change so the flame will burn blue, not white or yellow and soot up the thermocouple. If you do find it here is a link to a place to buy one http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-390686-1-LP-Orifice-for-Pilot-Burners-Q314-Q345-Q3450-Q3451-Q3452. Here is the instruction book for the pilot which shows changing the orifice http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-0519.pdf, good luck with the build.

 

[PuckeredPenguin]

Bernie,

Here is a great thread that you should take a look at if you havent already Go to post #80 for a detailed parts list, this might help your in your shopping adventures

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-new-brew-system-brutus-10-some-nice-modifications-172927/

Edit: I see you have been on Josh's thread

Guys, this thread has been very helpful and I am at the point of where HI SALENITY was when he couln't get the gas valves to open. Here's what I understand:

The gas valve will click when I switch the HOA to H (bypassing the PID), but no gas comes out. That's because I have an adjustable 0-30 psi regulator and I need to be at or below 0.5 psi coming. As kladue pointed out, the valves shut above 0.5 psi to prevent accidents.

As for your regulator, the valves you are using do require 11" W.C. of pressure to properly operate. So your 0-30 adj reg will work fine for the BK burner, however if you want the MT & HLT to be fired off of Honeywell valves you will need another regulator(11" W.C.) plumed downstream to lower the pressure for them(Honeywell Pilot Valves).

Can I dial my regulator back (using a gauge that I would have to add) to get it under 0.5 psi? My reason for doing that is that I am using Lonnie Mac's gas beam approach (and not black pipe like Jlandin) and once I am done with the mash in and sparge, I just need to boil and I can turn up the boil pressure and forget about the other burners.

Here is a link to Brewers hardware they sell a regulator and LP orifice that you need to run your burners.

The orifice you are talking about drilling out to 3/32....the is the brass fitting with the small hole that screws into the end of the BG14, right? (I know this sounds stupid but I want to be sure and not have to wait for parts I screwed up.)

See above link

You guys spoke of a LP conversion kit for the pilot. I didn't get a conversion kit that I could find...it it necessary to have one or will I have such a small flame that the thermocouple won't work?

Yes it is necessary to have the proper Honeywell Valve conversion kit to switch from LNG to LP gas. Here is a link to www.pexsupply.com Their valves come with the conversion kit, at least when I ordered mine they did
That should cover your questions, let us know if you still are having troubles.

Cheers

 

[Bernieol]

Kevin - Thanks for the quick response!

I'll get a Marshall.

I found my LP pilot propane orifices and will add them tonight. Thanks for the install link....just what I needed.

Now for the orifice, it is the brass fitting that goes into the end of the BG14, right?

(I have 3/32 drill bits and a drill press so I am ready to go there too!)

Bernie

 

[kladue]

Did you buy the gas valve setup for LP?, or did you get a small bag with a red spring in the box with the valve?. If so you need to replace the stainless (NG) spring with the red spring to get full output pressure/flow from the valve. Here is an instruction book for the valve http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/related_links/combustion/vr8300_vr8200/install/68_0046.pdf, look on page 5 for the conversion instructions.

 

[Bernieol]

Kevin - I have converted my valve over to LP.

With all these answers, I am probably just a Marshall reg and some gas valve flow adjustments away from getting this to run. Then, on to the PID controlled heating and I should be able to brew soon!

Thanks, Bernie

 

[Bernieol]

Thanks to Josh (jlandin), Kevin and PuckeredPenguin...I was able to fire up and drive my Brutus from the control panel. I need to get the PID controller side up (and haven't tried it yet but plan to so do today or tomorrow.)


I was concerned about the BG14 burners working with low pressure but they work like a charm.

Thanks again,

Bernie

 

[rmaloney86]

Saved

 

[bpaulik]

Ok, I know this is an old tread but can anyone tell me if I would need a single Marshall 299 regulator or will I need one for each burner? I want the ability to run the HLT and Mash at the same time. I'm going to keep the boil kettle at high pressure.

If I needed two due to only having a max output of 90,000 BTU could I go with the M.B. Sturgis 108220 https://mbsturgis.com/rv-propane-hoses-sturgi-stays-quick-disconnects-regulators/rv-regulators/two-stage-lp-regulator.html which has a max output of 400,000 BTU?

Thanks

 

[bpaulik]

Just for anyone else looking for the info I did purchase the MB Sturgis 108220 regulator and it works great for supplying two low pressure BG14's. Save a little money by purchasing one regulator instead of two (one for each burner).

 

[purdman10]

I big shoutout to kladue! I was scratching my head for a while to figure out how to wire two zip ports for my wok burners. Found a google archive from 2010 by kladue for panel wiring and figured it out.