Temperature Control: does it matter IF...

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Wooden

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If... You don't go outside the "ideal range" of the yeast?

So, before I get blasted for not using the search button, let me say I have searched this topic extensively and read several articles and posts on it. All of them stress the importance of fermentation control, with a caveat that some people will say they don't control temp, and "it worked for them" but then that one day they invest in a temp control system, they insist their beer is worlds better, yadda yadda, but and "it's your beer, so all that matters is if u like it..."

I have 5 extract brews under my belt now and a couple AG. So far my ales have turned out good (TO ME). Looking to try wine also, but this topic has me worried.

But, I mean, seriously, a ferm chamber is a lot of money and effort and space, and.,,, I just really want to know WHY spending the time, money, and effort is supposedly worth it?

MY QUESTIONS ARE THIS:

-Is it important to have *Absolute temperature control* (e.g, a thermostat controlled device or similar) ..... Or is that simply important if you can't keep the fermentation temp within the range?

-That is, is temperature fluctuation inherently bad? If so, WHY?

-if so, are there some styles where any temp fluctuation whatsoever is inherently bad??

-what about wine?

Reason I ask, is I have temp control over my house. I can set the thermostat such that ambient temps will not exceed the recommended range of the yeast (at least for ales, even at peak krausen). It is cold here, so most times of the year, keeping it cooler in the house SAVES me money.

Obviously this is not a real precise method, and I am sure the temp fluctuates a couple degrees or so during the day, and I don't change the temp of the house to follow the fermentation exactly, but .... Wanted to know what you guys think about this and Why!
 
Temperature fluctuations in the first days of primary fermentation are what IME give ales unpleasant or unexpected results. If you can stay in a yeasts temp range during that period, and like your beer you are in great shape. It is usually safe to have gradual climbs or drops after the krausen settles. But not all temps in a yeasts range are ideal. I once fermented a blonde with US05 at 63F, it was in the safe zone, but the fruity esters were overwhelming and it took 6 months in bottles to make it tolerable.
 
But, I mean, seriously, a ferm chamber is a lot of money and effort and space, and.,,, I just really want to know WHY spending the time, money, and effort is supposedly worth it?

I have to disagree with this statement. Here are the costs of my chamber:

Frig - $100. I got a fancy glass door coca cola frig. You can get much cheaper or even free on craigslist.
Dual stage temp controller - $40 shipped, amazon prime (Inkbird Itc-308)
Small heater - $20 bucks shipped amazon prime

And thats it. You could definitely get away with spending around $100 or less for a perfectly fine fermentation chamber. The issue is whether or not you have the space.
 
I'm of the mindset that the difference between good beer and great beer is in the details. From everything I've learned, fermentation temp plays a large role in flavor - so not only is controlling the temp important to obtaining the flavor you're looking for, it's also important for repeatability.

Example: if you change your mash temp for example, and then the beer tastes better to you than the last batch with the same recipe, but you brewed one in the winter and another in the summer, how do you know if the better flavor was from your mash profile or changes in fermentation temp?

Of course, this is a hobby and if it's not important to you then don't waste your money. But I'm happy I went with a fermentation chamber for the reasons above, and like Lazer said, it doesn't have to break the bank of your do it right.
 
I have to disagree with this statement. Here are the costs of my chamber:

Frig - $100. I got a fancy glass door coca cola frig. You can get much cheaper or even free on craigslist.
Dual stage temp controller - $40 shipped, amazon prime (Inkbird Itc-308)
Small heater - $20 bucks shipped amazon prime

And thats it. You could definitely get away with spending around $100 or less for a perfectly fine fermentation chamber. The issue is whether or not you have the space.

+1

I use an AC unit that was sat out with a "free" sign on it, in front of a neighborhood house. And paid $3, for a small heater. It truly doesn't need to be expensive, if one simply gets creative. For lagering, I got a chest freezer for free, as well.

Mike:mug:
 
Pick up Jamil Zainasheff's Yeast: The Practical Guide to Beer Fermentation. He goes into Great detail about temperature control and how the Yeast react to it. I know that some of the best beer (ALE) I've made was done by pitching the yeast at 67°F and getting no higher than 68°F by day 3. Then after that bringing it up to 73°F for a few days, then racking to a secondary.
 
Whar ambient temps are you dealing with? SwAmp cooler is pretty easy to pull off
 
Temperature differences of a couple of degrees can affect the production of esters and other flavor affecting chemicals. For some yeast these chemicals affect the beer in a good way, but for the most part they are off flavors. Once you taste one of your beers when you have controlled the temperature during the formative period of fermentation, you'll be upset at yourself for ever questioning temperature control. Get a big plastic tote and freeze some water bottles as a start before going full refrigerator. You spend too much time designing the recipe and thinking about the details of flavors you want to produce to leave the yeast flavors as an afterthought. Do it, it's worth it.
 
+1 to lots of the comments here. Also, when temps decrease in a shorter time period, it can make yeast "sleepy" which could have the effect of extending fermentation, not a good thing.
 
+1 to lots of the comments here. Also, when temps decrease in a shorter time period, it can make yeast "sleepy" which could have the effect of extending fermentation, not a good thing.

In the case of WLP002/WY1968, a couple of degrees drop can lead to the yeast flocculating out and stopping fermentation. That strain is particularly sensitive.
 
In the case of WLP002/WY1968, a couple of degrees drop can lead to the yeast flocculating out and stopping fermentation. That strain is particularly sensitive.


Agree...I use 1968 exclusively for my ESB...first three days are on the low side 62-64°...then let it rise for a diacetyl rest up to 73° and boom a very nice ESB.

Fermentation chambers don't have to be crazy either...I have a cool brew bag that I bought off a member here for 50 bucks...holds temps great with changing frozen 2L seltzer bottles every 12 hours
 
In the case of WLP002/WY1968, a couple of degrees drop can lead to the yeast flocculating out and stopping fermentation. That strain is particularly sensitive.

I used to start @ 62F like I do with 001, but recently started at 64F. Even then, 3 days max and this beer needs raised to 70F to complete fermentation.
 
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