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Tall Boy vs competition

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GPa Bob

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Feb 3, 2018
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I’m a new brewer. (Actually, I brewed my own back in the middle 70’s before it was legal, but haven’t brewed since.) Keep in mind, back then you just covered the wort with cheesecloth until the initial ferment was over.

I’m looking to do my 3rd batch and have been reading this forum. I have read many places where doing a boil on a full batch is better than on a ½ batch and adding water (or RO ice).

Now, my question … an 8 qt Tall Boy kettle seems to be the recommended unit to use. It runs about $100 at my local HBS (Northern Brewers – I’ve heard the bad stuff and don't want this to be the issue) and $115 on Amazon. Ebay has an 8 gallon brew kettle by Brewers Best for $60. Both have free shipping. The supposed difference is the Tall Boy has a 1.2:1 ratio height:diameter vs 1.375:1 for Brewers Best. Does this ratio really make a difference?
 
Does this ratio really make a difference?

Welcome back to the hobby!

Short answer, no, the ratio doesn't matter. Wider pots will boil off more than narrower ones, but that's something you can compensate for. Also, though an 8 gallon kettle will get the job done, I'd go with at least a 10 gallon kettle to give you a little more room to avoid boilovers and do longer boils.
 
For a full boil 5 gallon batch I would recommend a 10 gallon pot. I started with a 7.5 gallon pot and it ended up being too small. You figure you need to start with 6.5-7 gallons of wort to end with 5-5.5 gallons at the end of a 60 minute boil. With a smaller pot that doesn't leave much headroom for boilovers.

The dimensions of the pot will effect the boil off rate. A wider pot will boil over more liquid than a tall pot. IMO one isn't better than the other but you do have to account for it when you start your boil to make sure you end with the correct amount of wort.

I have the 10 gallon tallboy from Northern Brewer and it's a good pot, Nice and sturdy and a thick bottom to prevent scorching.
 
Thanks! I've not had a boilover, yet, and, from the You Tube videos, I don't want one. I'll put the 10 gallon one at the top of my list.
 
I've got the 10 gallon Tall Boy and its a pretty good pot and a great price. Get the 10 over the 8 (and somebody is sure to respond to get the 15). Very sturdy and a thick bottom. The only thing I don't like is that it doesn't have volume markings on the inside. When I bought it, I didn't realize how handy that would be, but its easily resolved. You can either get a stick or a ruler and fill up the pot a half gallon at a time and mark it on your stick or ruler. That way you can see how much wort you have after your mash and check your boil off rates. Or you can etch the pot. There's a thread on the forum here somewhere that tells you how to do that. Something I've been meaning to do but never seem to have the time.

You might sign up at Northern Brewer website to get e-mails from them. I know I waited and waited, but finally got an e-mail for some kind of discount and free shipping and then I ordered. Saved a few $s that way.
 
Hi GPa Bob,
The Tall boy is a fantastic quality brew pot. I just drilled one for a friend so he can have a spigot on his.

Which brings me to the point I am trying to make, great pot, but maybe you try to find one with a weld, or already drilled.

AIH has a 10 gallon 1 weld, that after adding a stainless steel valve, comes in at 87.98 + shipping
https://www.homebrewing.org/10-Gallon-1-Weld-Volume-Marked-Brew-Pot_p_6065.html

Williamsbrewing has a 10 gallon one for 99.99

The tall boy is a great kettle at the price, but i would look for one drilled or welded bung.
 
Stainless is always the way to go. And excellent... I did not know of the 5 dollar shipping.
 
For that price, I would jump on it. Wish I had seen that years ago. I just drilled a hole and added a ball valve to mine. Would have saved me the money buying a step bit and I’d have volume markings.
 
With the valve build a counter flow chiller....

edit: the main reason for the valve is that you are not lifting or moving 5 gallons of near boiling wort. You can do an immersion chiller, but would be better off with a counter flow chiller, it's much faster. they are easy to build (I built my own) or look in the classified section on here.
 
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