• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Got mine today. Have a makeshift stand until I can make one. So far I am very happy with the quality, and am hoping on getting another soon. I can't decide if I want to use a racking port or not though. Will be brewing on New Years eve to test it out. Thanks for all the help guys!

ForumRunner_20111222_173005.jpg
 
I bought a 13 1/2" inside diameter (-456) red 70 euro FDA silicone o-ring from orings-online.com to fit on the lid assembly. It costs $9.87 each plus shipping. No nasty airborne particles - flying, crawling or otherwise - are going to get inside!. The lid itself seems to tighten on the assembly well enough on its own.


b5da2cc2.jpg
 
Does that make it totally airtight? Did you install that between the conical and lid assembly?


Yes, it is installed between the conical and the lid assembly. As for airtight, I don't have a Brewhemoth Pressurizer to test. I just got the tank a week ago because of this thread and have been collecting the bits to use it - hopefully as early as next weekend.
 
I just bit on the free shipping deal too. I dream of someday having a row of Brewhemoth's, and may someday when child support and maintenance are done. For now, this will be a fine alternative. No more splitting batches between buckets or carboys!
 
Does that make it totally airtight? Did you install that between the conical and lid assembly?


As for gasketing the space between the lid and the lid assembly, I thought of a bicycle or scooter inner tube with an OD of 14". The inner tube would have to be halved to get rid of the air valve. In so doing, one would end up with two gaskets. I tried searching for PTFE gaskets; but, they were very expensive.

That said, the lid when fastened really tight to the lid assembly seems to effectively close the door on bugs. I was really concerned about the gap between the lid assembly and the conical which the o-ring appears to remedy.
 
Before I drill mine for a racking port I had a few questions. First, what is a proper height to drill the hole? I have read 6-7 inches, but that seems high.
Second, what are the best fittings to use internally as the pickup/racking arm? I was planning on just using a barbed 90 unless there is a easier, more sanitary solution.
 
Before I drill mine for a racking port I had a few questions. First, what is a proper height to drill the hole? I have read 6-7 inches, but that seems high.
Second, what are the best fittings to use internally as the pickup/racking arm? I was planning on just using a barbed 90 unless there is a easier, more sanitary solution.


Do you plan to use a yeast catcher? Do you plan on dumping sediment then dumping yeast, or do you plan on it all in one shot? What kind of diptube do you plan to implement? The answers to these questions will determine where you place it, but the first thing is that it depends on a measurement of volume, not length. For instance, I put mine at the 1 gallon mark, not x amount of inches from the bottom. Since I'm using a compression fitting for my copper diptube, I can loosen the compression nut and just move the placement of the diptube to wherever I want.
 
I was planning on using a yeast catcher for the trub, and using a hose afterwards to dump and harvest the yeast. Since I am using a1.5 inch ballvalve and camlocks, clogs are not really a concern. I like the idea of a rotating Assembly but have not seen a clean design that I like so far, That's why I was going to keep it simple.
 
Do you plan to use a yeast catcher? Do you plan on dumping sediment then dumping yeast, or do you plan on it all in one shot? What kind of diptube do you plan to implement? The answers to these questions will determine where you place it, but the first thing is that it depends on a measurement of volume, not length. For instance, I put mine at the 1 gallon mark, not x amount of inches from the bottom. Since I'm using a compression fitting for my copper diptube, I can loosen the compression nut and just move the placement of the diptube to wherever I want.
I think copper on the cold side might not be the best solution. I looked into it for a racking arm and found enough info to persuade me to use stainless steel tube and compression fitting.
the concern is it will react with the wort and create toxic compounds
 
I think copper on the cold side might not be the best solution. I looked into it for a racking arm and found enough info to persuade me to use stainless steel tube and compression fitting.
the concern is it will react with the wort and create toxic compounds

I had not heard of this until now. I did a bunch of research this morning, and I am now also persuaded. I'm glad you brought this to my attention before I used my conical.
 
glad to help... I was going to do the same until I researched a bit. Ened up with SS bulkheads with 90 degree elbows compression fitting to a 6"stainless racking arm in the conical. all the parts are available from bargainfittings.com, and elsewhere also i'm sure
 
Just curious. Is anyone using this system sealed tight and holding pressure as well as using some sort of ss coil to cool? How are you accomplishing this. I'm interested in that.

At the very least I'm interested in what people have put together as far as the coils to cool the wort instead of me building a fermentation room.
 
chrisdb said:
I think copper on the cold side might not be the best solution. I looked into it for a racking arm and found enough info to persuade me to use stainless steel tube and compression fitting.
the concern is it will react with the wort and create toxic compounds

What kind of toxins cause i got copper in mine. Do you have more detail on that
 
What kind of toxins cause i got copper in mine. Do you have more detail on that

Found in BYO:

"Copper is a double-edged sword in brewing. It is beneficial before fermentation, but detrimental afterwards. Copper ions react with the hydrogen sulfide produced during fermentation and reduce it to insoluble copper sulfide, which is left behind with the trub and yeast cake. Switching to all stainless steel brewing equipment can lead to noticeable quantities of hydrogen sulfide and sulfur off-flavors and aromas in the beer. The use of copper wort chillers will provide all the copper necessary, as will including a short piece (1 inch) of copper tubing in the boil.

Copper is a problem post-fermentation because it catalyzes staling reactions, including the production of hydrogen peroxide and can oxidize the alcohols to aldehydes. Finished beer should not be stored in contact with copper, although serving beer with copper tubing in a jockey box should not be a problem, because of the short contact time immediately before serving."
 
Hi folks,

Great thread. I may have missed this, but could someone describe their sanitation procedure? Also, is anyone concerned about all the threaded connections and possible scratches in the threads?

Thanks.
 
Got my full drain tank today! This is going to be much better then the bulkhead version in mu opinion. Also the gallon markings are much clearer on this tank then the previous. I'll try and take pictures tonight.

I wanted to provide contact information for OhioValleyAG, Jarrod is the sales rep that has really gone above and beyond to make things right. If your interested in duplicating please give him an e-mail also can't beat their price either $51.87, and shipping was cheap $12.73, of course I am only one state away. Only real complaint is the tanks were shipped bare, not cardboard box. Can't be too upset both made it here in great condition and the fittings were wrapped in foam and seamed well with packing tape.


Remember model: INFD15-19
Not on website, order direct through

Jarrod Kemper
Ohio Valley Ag
Marketing & Business Development
2610 West Second Street
Owensboro, KY 42301
o: 270.684.4202 x216
f: 270.684.4204
tf: 866.561.7772
e: [email protected]
Shop Online: www.ohiovalleyag.com

Well it seems I took to long and they figured out they could make more money. That tank is now listed at $70.26 :mad:
 
Try emailing Jarrod. He might be able to help. If not I think rural king with coupon is second best.
 
FSR402 said:
Well it seems I took to long and they figured out they could make more money. That tank is now listed at $70.26 :mad:

Try spraysmarter based out of indianapolis got mine from them for under 60.00 and shipped fast look them up on web they have a website id call to order though to make sure u get the complete drainout version
 
Where are people getting stainless rack arm for this thing. Im looking for one that dont rotate. Any sugestions?
 
Just picked up the 15 gallon Full Drain 2" version.

I also got the valve, nipple, and two couplers.

http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=063240069&nsize=1000

http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=063240904&nsize=1000

Any reason I shouldn't use this setup?

Well, today I received everything. Booo. The Tank I got with the 2" drain had way too many nooks and crannies to use. I remember other people on here saying the same thing but couldn't find it. I'm hoping the full drain version, which I just reordered, has a lot less places for things to hide at the drain. The other unfortunate thing is that all the hardware I ordered has to also be sent back as it's for the 2" drain. Too bad it took me 10 days to find all this out. I've got some honey brown ingredients that are screaming to be cooked up!
 
I got my 15gal sitting in the basement. Keep up the good ideas. I hope to order my fittings and possibly building a cold box soon!
 
HellBentBrewCo said:
did you ever get a chance to post pictures or instructions on how you sealed this thing?

Not yet still got a brew in it ill get the list of parts for you etc. By this weekend
 
Back
Top