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Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

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chuckjaxfl: I havne't checked the space yet.

I took the conical out and rebuilt my "shelf frame" for my fridge. I used 3/4" plywood and built a 1x2 frame out of red oak. I can put all my weight on it and it is sturdy.

conical12.JPG

Before the supports. My crappy chaulk art. My wife will redo it much better!

conical4.JPG

Building the new frame/shelf

conical31.JPG

In place

conical21.JPG


I will post more pix tomorrow when it is in place and full of beer!
 
I brewed yesterday and made two batches. I filled the conical with 10 gallons of Christmas Ale. I was also able to fit my 5 gallon batch in a better bottle in the bottom of the fermentation chamber. I left the yeast catcher off this time, as it stilled smelled like pvc glue. I noticed that the conical itself had a strong platic smell. I soaked it in oxyclean and then starsan overnight. I did some research and found a recommendation that I place it in the sun. Bingo! That worked likme a champ! Anyway, this freezer will fit the conical and two better bottles.

ferm11.JPG
 
... I did some research and found a recommendation that I place it in the sun. Bingo! That worked likme a champ! Anyway, this freezer will fit the conical and two better bottles.


That's great! I'll make a note of that.

What's up with the ports you added? I suppose one is a racking port. What's the other addition to the cone? Also, do you think you're going to get any temp stratification above/below your shelf?
 
The capped port was a mistake. It was supposed to go up top to fill it. It is just capped for now. I could use it for a temp probe. I am going to drill some holes in the shelf in all four corners and put in a PC fan to ciruclate the air. There is about an inch of space between front of the shelf and the door. Now if I only had room for a few more freezers! This is a great thread and all of my ideas came from the OP and others who have posted here. I did come up with the shelf idea. I hope it continues to hold.
 
I have an 1 1/2" male threaded nipple coming out of my ball valve. I bought a 1 1/2" female threaded to 3" slip adapter, a 12"piece of 3" PVC pipe, and a 3" cap. The pipe had the female end on it, otherwise I would have bought a 3" coupler.
 

Link now goes to the main page of agrimart.net

I did a search on their site and found: http://agrimart.net/15-gallon-full-drain-inductor-tank-infd15-19/
But in it's description it lists "Fitting Options: 1 1/2" FPT BOSS molded-in threaded outlet, or 2" MPT outlet"

the 2"MPT confuses me, adding to cart and starting checkout process didn't give me any options to choose "fitting options"...

Is this still the right tank?
 
Link now goes to the main page of agrimart.net

I did a search on their site and found: http://agrimart.net/15-gallon-full-drain-inductor-tank-infd15-19/
But in it's description it lists "Fitting Options: 1 1/2" FPT BOSS molded-in threaded outlet, or 2" MPT outlet"

the 2"MPT confuses me, adding to cart and starting checkout process didn't give me any options to choose "fitting options"...

Is this still the right tank?

I'm interested in an answer to this too, I was planning on ordering one of these today. On a side note, has anyone figured out how to add a rotating racking arm?
 
Grrrr... So I made a batch today to be the second go at my build and I could not get my yeast catcher to thread on straight and the plastic threads are now crooked and now I'm looking for an alternative. Anyone else have problems with their yeast catcher threading into the ball valve after a couple of times of putting it on? This batch is in there with no yeast catcher until I find an alternative. I was thinking of replacing the male thread piece on the yeast catcher and getting another SS niple with a female end on the yeast catcher and maybe super glueing it.
 
Grrrr... So I made a batch today to be the second go at my build and I could not get my yeast catcher to thread on straight and the plastic threads are now crooked and now I'm looking for an alternative. Anyone else have problems with their yeast catcher threading into the ball valve after a couple of times of putting it on? This batch is in there with no yeast catcher until I find an alternative. I was thinking of replacing the male thread piece on the yeast catcher and getting another SS niple with a female end on the yeast catcher and maybe super glueing it.

I've (obviously) been watching this thread. I think when I take on this project, I'll put a cam-lock or a tri-clover between the valve and the bulb.

Seems like you could start with one of these:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

and go tri-clover from there. Or put big camlocks between the bulb and the valve.
 
When I ordered my 2 tanks last Sunday night I just adding in the "special instructions" area that I would like the 1-1/2" option sent and on Friday tada!
 
I've (obviously) been watching this thread. I think when I take on this project, I'll put a cam-lock or a tri-clover between the valve and the bulb.

Seems like you could start with one of these:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1.5-Male-NPT.html

and go tri-clover from there. Or put big camlocks between the bulb and the valve.

Great idea, I could get two of these a clamp and a gasket and replace the male pvc with a female pvc end on the yeast catcher. Then there will be no future threading problems just use the tri colver clamp to remove the yeast catcher. I will see if I place the order tomorrow so I can still integrate it on this batch.
 
I have been using these tanks for four years. I now have (3) 10 gallon tanks for my 8 gallon batches. After the mods on the tank and building my own stand I have about 100.00 dollars in them. Great for yeast harvest and put a second spicket for bottling.

I emailed them last summer and asked them if they would make a 7.5 gallon tank. I haven't reeived a response.

TD

How do you bottle out of one of these tanks? What's the process? I just ordered one, hopefully it will be here next week!
 
I'm thinking about trying it without the yeast catcher... just a 1.5" dump valve, so I can dump trub and yeast into a jar without worrying about purging the yeast catcher with CO2
 
Great idea on the Tri-clovers. Just ordered 2. I also ordered a 12" rubber o-ring to seal the lid. I will post results from the o-ring.
 
Sacdan, where did you get the o-ring. And please let us know how it works out. Would be great to know we can get close to an air tight seal.
 
Airtight would certainly rule. It's the only thing keeping me from swooping.
 
Well guys after reading this whole thread from the begining i just ordered the 15gal tank and stand should be here tuesday. Ill set it up and let you know how it turns out. I got alot of good info from everyone here thanks.
 
What length stainless coil would be required to drop in this thing for temp control?

Temperature control is the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger…
 
What length stainless coil would be required to drop in this thing for temp control?

Temperature control is the only thing stopping me from pulling the trigger…

I use a 25ft stainless coil from nybrewsupply.com and have been able to maintain 40 degrees below ambient. (although the chiller did run a lot more)
 
I live near Huntsville, AL. We have this awesome BioDiesel mfg called DudaDiesel. Cone Bottom & Inductor Tanks with Metal Stands

They have big plastic fermentors...15 gal starting at $159.14


They sell brewing Plate Chillers and he claims that his cone tanks work great for brewing...Give him a ring...

• Phone Orders: (256) 340-4866
• Toll Free: 1-855-DUDA-BIO

Bob-
 
BeerBrewBob said:
They have big plastic fermentors...15 gal starting at $159.-

I appreciate that you give your buddy a shout-out...that's respectable. You may want to read the thread first, however, since the first page has 15-gal plastic fermenters for $70 ($80 less than your friend!).

"All your home brew are belong to us!"
 
The Duda Diesel plate chillers are definitely the best deal out there. There are a couple of threads here about those already.
 
Shockerengr said:
I use a 25ft stainless coil from nybrewsupply.com and have been able to maintain 40 degrees below ambient. (although the chiller did run a lot more)

Any examples of how to mount a temperature probe in the tank?
 
I have not personally tried it, but I would assume a weldless thermo probe fitting from bargainfittings would work just fine.
 

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