Super Simple 15G Plastic Conical

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I did 15 gallons in mine once.....once. It made a royal mess...and the tops of these fermentors are not exactly easy to clean when covered in dried krausen.
 
Do you guys have the dimensions of the hole you cut in the wood for a stand for the fermenter to slide into?
 
jflongo said:
The most I'll do in mine is probably 12 - 13 gallons.
Click to expand...

I have all of plumbing for this thing if you are interested. All quick disconnects, couplings, nipple to attach hose and banjo valve. Let me know if so...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app

1393391779935.jpg
 
jcorn said:
I have all of plumbing for this thing if you are interested. All quick disconnects, couplings, nipple to attach hose and banjo valve. Let me know if so...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app
Click to expand...

I have all of the parts for the bottom of the conical already, with the exception of a yeast catcher, which I'm skipping for now. I'm working on the side port right now, and order parts for it.

So what size of hole did you guys do for the stand for this to slide into?
 
jflongo said:
I have all of the parts for the bottom of the conical already, with the exception of a yeast catcher, which I'm skipping for now. I'm working on the side port right now, and order parts for it.

So what size of hole did you guys do for the stand for this to slide into?
Click to expand...

Why are you doing a side port? I ask because the yeast catcher when properly sized eliminates the need for the side port and associated plumbing/valve.
 
FredTheNuke said:
Why are you doing a side port? I ask because the yeast catcher when properly sized eliminates the need for the side port and associated plumbing/valve.
Click to expand...

I plan on putting a dip tube/side port in. That way I can easily take gravity samples, and drain it that way.
 
jflongo said:
I have all of the parts for the bottom of the conical already, with the exception of a yeast catcher, which I'm skipping for now. I'm working on the side port right now, and order parts for it.

So what size of hole did you guys do for the stand for this to slide into?
Click to expand...

I did a side port on mine w/ a spigot as well. I can measure the hole when I get home if you are still in need.
 
jcorn said:
I did a side port on mine w/ a spigot as well. I can measure the hole when I get home if you are still in need.
Click to expand...

Yes if you won't mind. I came up with a 57.5" circumference, so an 18.30" diameter. So if you can double check yours that would be great. Thanks and cheers.
 
jflongo said:
Yes if you won't mind. I came up with a 57.5" circumference, so an 18.30" diameter. So if you can double check yours that would be great. Thanks and cheers.
Click to expand...

Sorry this took so long to return to you but I measured my hole and it was just simply a 1ft hole diameter hole. It works well but is probably the bare minimum you would want to go. I made mine that way so I could have my conical higher up and still add fittings to it
 
jcorn said:
Sorry this took so long to return to you but I measured my hole and it was just simply a 1ft hole diameter hole. It works well but is probably the bare minimum you would want to go. I made mine that way so I could have my conical higher up and still add fittings to it
Click to expand...

Maybe I'll start with 16" and see how it fits. Then go a little larger if I want it to actually go on the ridge part of the conical. Thanks.
 
This is such a great thread, thank you contributors and HBT! I need to get off my butt and build it! Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
sawbossFrogg, don't feel bad as I created this thread almost 3 yrs ago an have yet to use mine. Long story short I lost the ability to brew at my condo. The good new, closed on a new home and moving in next weekend. First step is to move the bewery before the bed. It is going to be sooo nice to brew again!
 
Yes Squeeky, congrats on the new brew shop that some call a house.

I built the 15 gallon version of this build and love it. Late last summer I brewed a couple of batches and used a refrigerator to maintain fermentation conditions.

Then, in early winter the ambient temperature cooled to the point the refrigerator would not kick in. So I made the 60W light bulb in a can build, placed it in the refrigerator and went away for a couple of days.

The bulb warmed the refrigerator but the frig did not respond well at all and I lost the batch due to high ferment temps.

I am in the process of building a dedicated brewery in one of my outbuildings on the farm. I need some help from you people discussing the best option for cooling/heating a chamber.

I will want to be able to cool my 15 gallon conical of wort to around 60F. Further, I want to brew year round, so I will have to have a heating component as well.

I currently use a gutted standard refrigerator. A Johnson single stage control for cooling works. I am in the process of building the Dual stage temperature controller STC-1000. I plan on plugging my 60W light bulb can heater into the controller as the heat source.

Will this work for ambient temps that get below zero?

Or, should I consider building more of a walk in type room of about 5' X 6' X 8' and have the refrigerator sit in there? I could then simply heat the room up a bit and allow the refrigerator to do its own work using the Johnson I already have?

Are there other solutions I do not yet see? Cost is an issue. (I don't have the $300.00 for a CoolBot.)
 
I poured my heart and soul into mine in the beginning. Now I hardly ever do big batching so I never use it. I always split my 10.5 gallon batches into (2) 5.25 sizes and pitch different yeast. I wonder how much luck one might have brewing 5.25 gallons of 1.063 in a 15 gallon tank? Too much headspace you think? I would be kegging it within 2-3 weeks so oxidation shouldnt be of concern. Congrats on the new place!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app
 
So what has the going cost been around these days. For the standard 15 gal with fitting and all.

Pleasant Valley Hops inc.
Carroll Brewing Company
Frederick Md
 
Finally came up with a seal for my plastic conical. Found out that a 10" pressure cooker seal fit just right around the lid of my ferment. Seals up nice and air tight now.

20140317-IMG_0629.jpg

20140317-IMG_0628.jpg

20140315-IMG_0595.jpg
 
The one I bought Has a 10" lid on it.

In the picture of the lid, it's the light colored rubber ring around the outside of the black plastic lid.

Here's a better picture of what the gasket actually looks like.

31RT3D8A33L.jpg
 
Apologies if this has already been discussed, but I haven't yet waded through all 900+ posts to this thread. I was originally trying to find info / reviews on the 8 gallon Minibrew plastic conical - but this is so much more economical, and gives room for expansion. So my question is - is there any reason not to brew smaller batches, i.e., 5-7 gallons in this 15 gallon conical? Any downside to the large amount of head space?
 
If you install your sample/racking port in the right place, I wouldn't see a problem with it. I do 15 gallon batches in my 30 gallon conical
 
I am sure this has been asked before but is there a place we can buy the 15 gal tanks with low shipping costs?
 
Just remember the 15 gallon ones are Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) - not suitable for long term beer storage due to oxygen permeation. Make sure you source HDPE for longer term storage/aging.
 
FredTheNuke said:
Just remember the 15 gallon ones are Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) - not suitable for long term beer storage due to oxygen permeation. Make sure you source HDPE for longer term storage/aging.
Click to expand...

I did not know that. Mine are only in there for one month max. What about the 30 gal?
 
FredTheNuke said:
Just remember the 15 gallon ones are Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) - not suitable for long term beer storage due to oxygen permeation. Make sure you source HDPE for longer term storage/aging.
Click to expand...

I swear I never noticed the medium density description when I bought mine 2 years ago. I wonder if they were hdpe then. The picture looks alot different then the one (decals and design) I bought back then.
How long is medium density good for holding such acidic beers?
 
Per Wild Brews MDPE has very high oxygen permeation - the chart is posted earlier in this thread. The only 2 verified HDPE Conicals I have found online are the Den Hartog Ace Roto blow molded 35 and 60 gallons models that come with bolt on legs.
 
FredTheNuke said:
Per Wild Brews MDPE has very high oxygen permeation - the chart is posted earlier in this thread. The only 2 verified HDPE Conicals I have found online are the Den Hartog Ace Roto blow molded 35 and 60 gallons models that come with bolt on legs.
Click to expand...

Are we even sure that food grade plastic fermenters are not mdpe? I mean mdpe is still considered a food grade. I have amazing beers with my plastic fermenters. Although I would guess that they are all hdpe (7.9 gallon wine buckets used for beer. Plenty of headspace)
 
SavoryChef said:
MDPE is made from a mixture of LDPE and HDPE

http://books.google.com/books?id=Km...density polyethylene oxygen permeable&f=false
Click to expand...

I wonder why they still call it food grade if it is oxygen permeable?

I wonder how long you could ferment in that type of fermenter without alot of oxygen leaking into it?

Couldn't you just paint it to protect it from exposure? Or cover it with something? All of mybrews have turned out good in the 15 gallon and I have left them in there upto 3 weeks before kegging and that is without tightly sealing the thing.
 
Read here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f127/hdpe-solera-231285/index3.html#post5592254

The homebrew buckets are HDPE but allow 220 cc/L of O2 in per year. The conical HDPE allows only 20 while a glass carboy with silicone stopper is at 17. A wine barrel is at 8.5 - which is exactly what you want for a non sour. I'm am guessing a sour will be ok with a bit of acetic acid per the 20 rating. We shall find out as my Solera ages...

We shall see if the new American Sours book has more detailed information.... Old Sock - hint - hint...
 
The big issue with buckets is the lid, not the plastic in my professional opinion.
 
If any of you have Beersmith and get the newsletter, the newest newsletter I received was all about plastic versus glass fermenters. They said that the plastic disadvantage is that it will scratch eventually and make it harder to sterilize (bacteria loves to hide in the scratches). Other than that food grade plastic is just fine for fermenting as long as you can seal it from outside air like you do a glass carboy and take extra care on sterilization. They did say also that eventually it will absorb flavors etc. as it gets porous enough to do so.
 

Similar threads

Mr Drinklestien
Conical Cleaning -- CIP Ball VS. Disassembly, Soak & Scrub
Replies
16
Views
969
Brooothru
Brooothru
M
For Sale Brewhemoth 22 Gallon Conical Fermenter with 3/8" Chiller coil $700 - will ship
Replies
1
Views
651
Mellman
M
homebrewdude76
DIY Fermentation Chiller with Aquarium Chiller
Replies
6
Views
398
homebrewdude76
homebrewdude76
jrdn
For Sale Fully Loaded 8 Gallon Jacketed Fermenter + Blichmann Glycol Chiller - San Diego Pickup
Replies
4
Views
491
1fastsedan
1
B
For Sale 1/2BBL (15gal) all grain setup for sale. Self collection in Boise, Idaho
Replies
0
Views
403
bradybjr
B
SSBrew 300

Latest posts

Back
Top