So I made my first brew and was disappointed. I made a Coopers Canadian Blond. It was light and smooth but lacked flavor. Also I think the alcohol content was very low. I flowed the directions to the letter. I primed the wort before bottle ing and carbonated great. So I was puzzled. I looked up some video's of people brewing the same beer and noticed they added dextrose when they first poured the wort into the fermenter. I never did that. So I wanted to know if that is why my brew was weak and bland. Also if you do add the dextrose at the beginning would you still do it before you bottle? Wanted to figure this out before my next batch.
Sugar
- Thread starter Fredie_T
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Just adding sugar will kick up the alcohol but it won't add any body or flavor. It actually may make it worse in my opinion by just drying it out further. What you could do is add some Dry Malt Extract or a can of unhopped extract for extra flavor as well as more fermentable sugar. You'll want to add the sugar when you add the rest of the extract.
With the canadian blonde,I'd add a 3lb bag of plain extra light DME with maybe 2oz of hops that suite the style,like Saaz & Haulertaur.
Ok then I should have put sugar in with the extract. I bought some brew enhancer is that the same as adding the sugar with the extract? And would you still add sugar to prime before bottling if you did it with the extract. Sorry of I sound dumb I'm just a bit confused because I have been reading some books and it dosn't mention adding sugar with the extract.
Adding sugar to the bottling step will restart fermentation for carbonation. Sugar prior to bottling will be consumed and just create the alcohol. So, you are talking 2 different things I think. As for enhancer, I've never used the stuff. I think it's probably similar to Dry Malt Extract (DME) so will help add some body as well as alcohol.
My very first batch I did 1 can of Hopped extract and 1 can of unhopped extract. No additional hops or sugar and it turned out pretty good. You can always try that for your 2nd batch and not mess with DME or sugar and see what you like.
My very first batch I did 1 can of Hopped extract and 1 can of unhopped extract. No additional hops or sugar and it turned out pretty good. You can always try that for your 2nd batch and not mess with DME or sugar and see what you like.
In other words,you add the sugar at the end or at flame out,IE like/with late extract additions. Not to the extract before adding! Brew enhancers (cooper's) are either dextrose & maltodextrin,or dextrose,maltodextrin & plain light DME. And yes,you still need to prime at bottling time.
I use 3lb bags of Munton's plain DME's with a cooper's can so I can use the plain DME (hlaf the 3lb bag) in a 2.5-3G boil for hop additions & still keep it light colored & no twang as with LME's. Then add LME/remaininG DME at flame out & steep 15 minutes covered to pasteurize.
I use 3lb bags of Munton's plain DME's with a cooper's can so I can use the plain DME (hlaf the 3lb bag) in a 2.5-3G boil for hop additions & still keep it light colored & no twang as with LME's. Then add LME/remaininG DME at flame out & steep 15 minutes covered to pasteurize.
1K of dextrose will only add alcohol. Just keep in mind adding a simple sugar like that will dry out your beer and make it stronger without adding malt profile to support it. So it will be a watery beer that is strong.
The very reason I replace the 1K of sugar with 3lb of plain DME. Keep the body up while adding ABV & more flavor. But that also nessecitates adding some hops to keep it balanced. Not to mention,making it your own.
TopherM
Well-Known Member
Move on from Cooper's kits to higher quality kits. That'll help more than anything. Coopers kits are about on par with Mr. Beer as mass-produced budget brands that tend to sit around for months and months after they are packaged and before you use them.
Move on up to kits from Austin Homebrew, Midwest Supplies, Northern Brewer, Williams Brewing, Rebel Brewer, Brewmaster's Warehouse, etc.. These are all high-volume online suppliers. You'll have fresh grain and DME/LME that was packaged less than a week before you receive them. Better quality, fresher ingredients = better beer!!
Good luck!
Move on up to kits from Austin Homebrew, Midwest Supplies, Northern Brewer, Williams Brewing, Rebel Brewer, Brewmaster's Warehouse, etc.. These are all high-volume online suppliers. You'll have fresh grain and DME/LME that was packaged less than a week before you receive them. Better quality, fresher ingredients = better beer!!
Good luck!
I can get fresher cooper's cans from morebeer.net or amazon regularly. With a good process,a good brewer can make tasty beer from any brand. Just learn where the fresher extracts can be had & buy from them. That's what I do.
Now if midwest was local for me,I could get the cheaper PM kits for the $25 instead of tacking on $11.41 for Fed-ex homie. Partial mash is generally cheaper,& I need to save money & still have beer & pay bills & such being retired. Never saw JW Dover sell bulk grains,just bags.
But midwest & northern brewer have many good lookin kits on whatever brewing level you are. Cost is about the same as a cooper's can with a 3lb bag of plain DME & 2-3oz of hops. PM & AG are where it starts getting cheaper,since you're doing more of the work. Look at extracts as pre packaged foods. They can be really good if you know how to cook to start with.
Now if midwest was local for me,I could get the cheaper PM kits for the $25 instead of tacking on $11.41 for Fed-ex homie. Partial mash is generally cheaper,& I need to save money & still have beer & pay bills & such being retired. Never saw JW Dover sell bulk grains,just bags.
But midwest & northern brewer have many good lookin kits on whatever brewing level you are. Cost is about the same as a cooper's can with a 3lb bag of plain DME & 2-3oz of hops. PM & AG are where it starts getting cheaper,since you're doing more of the work. Look at extracts as pre packaged foods. They can be really good if you know how to cook to start with.
