BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
Even with a 3/4" TC fitting welded onto the thick walled Brewhemoth racking port it has a stainless washer welded onto it first making the welded fitting much stronger.
Very nice. I would love to see more pics of both kettles. Possible? My biggest concern in dealing with Stout Kettles is the lack of images. I would love to use Stout Tanks and Kettles to build my own version of Kals Electric Brewery. I keep waffling between them and Blichmann. How do you feel about the crazy long drain values?
Cheers,
-J
I did have to turn the heat exchanger in my HLT upside down to allow room for the heating element. But, not that big if a deal.
Tippy dump is an awesome idea. So you bought the HERMS coil and all. I am thinking about seeing if I can get John to make a coil that is as large in diameter as possible (no thermowell) while still being able to a 90deg bend for the tri clover clamps. It wouldn't need to be centered. With the increase in diameter I would most likely be able to install an element below the coil. Even if that doesn't pan out I could always do as you did and install the coil upside down and it would then sit lower in the kettle (relative to a stock coil) because of its larger diameter. What do you think about this idea cbraun77s? What size HLT did you buy? How high in the kettle are the tri clovers for the coil (in gallons if you know)?
Thanks for the info.
-J
Also, have you noticed any stress on the coil fittings from installing it this way. Do you get any leaking of wort into your HLT caused by the coil being unsupported? In Kal's setup the ends of the coil are at both the top and bottom (as I'm sure you know). This configuration causes less torque on the compression fittings and their connection to the coil.
Thanks again,
-J