Storing full kegs

[birch]

I'm about ready to make the jump to kegging (finally).

I've done a lot of reading and pretty much have all my questions answered except for one that I can't seem to find an answer to in past threads...

Let's say I brew a batch, keg it, and I don't have room in the fridge yet so I want to store it at room temp. Is it OK to cool it down, carb it, then take it out and store it at room temp so all I have to do when I'm ready to drink is cool it down? Or should I store it un-carbonated and wait until I'm ready to drink to carb it? Or does it even make a difference? I'd like to be able to switch out a keg that's already carbed and be able to drink it once it's cold without having to wait a week or two for it to carb up.

I guess I'm mainly concerned if there is anything wrong with taking a keg out of the fridge and storing it at room temp after it's carbed. Will it still be correctly carbonated when I cool it back down to serve? Will taste be affected from the repeated warming/cooling?

Thanks in advance for any help. I'm pretty new here but this is a great forum!

 

[david_42]

I guess I'm mainly concerned if there is anything wrong with taking a keg out of the fridge and storing it at room temp after it's carbed. Will it still be correctly carbonated when I cool it back down to serve? Will taste be affected from the repeated warming/cooling?

No,
Yes,
No, just don't do it 8-10 times.

 

[birch]

No,
Yes,
No, just don't do it 8-10 times.

Thanks, I didn't figure it would be a problem, just wanted to make sure.

 

[samc]

+1 on the NO YES NO

Not sure why you say it takes 1-2 weeks to carb. I just put 30 psi on my cold keg for 36-48 hours and that is all it needs.

 

[birch]

+1 on the NO YES NO

Not sure why you say it takes 1-2 weeks to carb. I just put 30 psi on my cold keg for 36-48 hours and that is all it needs.

I know that's an option, I was just thinking of the 'set and forget' method. I've also read quite a few posts saying that sometimes forced carbed beer doesn't taste as good for a couple weeks anyway. Obviously I'm not speaking from experience here, just something others have mentioned.

 

[RC0032]

Will it age better uncarbed? I dont see the need to carb for storage...just rack, purge with C02, and add enough pressure to seal the keg then store it.

Now whats the best temp for keg storage? <70?

 

[IrregularPulse]

He just wants to store them carbed so they'll be ready when he needs one.

 

[kornkob]

I've also read quite a few posts saying that sometimes forced carbed beer doesn't taste as good for a couple weeks anyway.

Most of those comments probably derive from people who take beer that is fresh out of 4 weeks in fermentation, drop it in a keg, force carb it and start drinking it the moment it is carbed.

Green beer is green beer. Force carbing doesn't change that. Once you have your beer in a vessel (be it a bottle or a keg) you need to give it time to condition (variable length depending on the type of beer) before drinking it.

 

[MikeG]

Will it age better uncarbed? I dont see the need to carb for storage...just rack, purge with C02, and add enough pressure to seal the keg then store it.

Now whats the best temp for keg storage? <70?

I'm with you. Just make sure all the air is purged with CO2 and keep it at room temp (< or around 70F). I've stored exactly one this way and it's been hooked back up a cpl weeks ago and it's great.

 

[ruffdeezy]

I'm in the same boat,
let's say it's done fermenting, it's at room temp, I keg it, purge the o2, then what pressure should I leave it at if I were to leave it in the keg for 2 weeks up to 2 months or so before putting it in the kegerator?

 

[Yooper]

I'm in the same boat,
let's say it's done fermenting, it's at room temp, I keg it, purge the o2, then what pressure should I leave it at if I were to leave it in the keg for 2 weeks up to 2 months or so before putting it in the kegerator?

Are you keeping it on the gas? If you are, check the carb tables. You use a higher PSI at room temperature for the same volume of co2. If you're not keeping it on the gas, give it a nice big shot of co2 to ensure the lid is sealed and that's it.

 

[italynstallyn44]

Sorry to bring such an old post back from the dead, but I have a similar question.

I'm just about to start kegging. My kegerator is going to be able to fit 2 cornys both hooked up to the CO2 with the dual manifold. I want to have a backup keg always on hand so when one keg is kicked I can quickly hook up another and be able to drink it fairly soon. So if I pick up a third corny, what would be the best process for having it ready on deck? I don't really have room in a fridge to chill it, so my most likely option would be storing it at room temp. So after transfering from my fermenter to the keg, what should be my plan of attack? How do I shoot up the keg with CO2 if I only have the dual manifold and it is hooked up two the two kegs already in the kegerator?

 

[Chenslee]

@ Italy
If I were in your situation, I would hook the third keg up to the CO2 and pressurize it according to the carb chart then shake the crap out of it for 15 minutes. After that, gas it to that pressure once a day.

Your other option is to buy a second reg and re-plumb.

 

[Special Hops]

Instead of chilling, carbing, then unchilling and storing. Just dump in some priming sugar. About half of what you would use to bottle a batch. And let it sit. That is what I do if I do not have space in the kegorator and know it will be a few weeks.

 

[Chenslee]

Oh, yeah. What Special said. I forgot that you can prime a keg. As a bonus, it won't explode like bottles sometimes do.

 

[IffyG]

Instead of chilling, carbing, then unchilling and storing. Just dump in some priming sugar. About half of what you would use to bottle a batch. And let it sit. That is what I do if I do not have space in the kegorator and know it will be a few weeks.

How much sediment do you get (meaning how many yeasty pints do you pull before the beer is clear) when you use that method? I'm gonna start pipelining and my only concern is getting yeasty beer if I naturally carb.

 

[Special Hops]

How much sediment do you get (meaning how many yeasty pints do you pull before the beer is clear) when you use that method? I'm gonna start pipelining and my only concern is getting yeasty beer if I naturally carb.

You get a little the first few pints. The sediment settles and what is near the dip tube get's flushed out with a couple of pints. There will still be yeast at the bottom of the keg, but as long as you don't disturb the keg it's fine. Of course if you move it around or shake it will be a different story.

 

[DarkUncle]

Going to chime in with a related question here. If I'm storing a keg and essentially using the keg to simply age the beer until a spot opens up on the gas, I understand I need to purge the oxygen first. So I would hookup the CO2 and inject maybe 20-30 psi in, purge a few times so as to get the oxygen out and also to seat the beads properly and leave at 30ish psi. I can then stick it in a corner somewhere and let it age. That part I'm clear on.

What I don't seem to see is if there is a need to check the pressure every so often. I would expect the pressure to naturally come down as some of the gas is absorbed into the liquid and an equilibrium is slowly being reached between the liquid and headspace. But, as the pressure does come down, is there a need to boost it back up again? Will the pressure ever come down so much that oxygen is able to get in? Or can I set it and forget it until I'm ready to stick it on the gas to carb up?

Thanks

 

[Special Hops]

Going to chime in with a related question here. If I'm storing a keg and essentially using the keg to simply age the beer until a spot opens up on the gas, I understand I need to purge the oxygen first. So I would hookup the CO2 and inject maybe 20-30 psi in, purge a few times so as to get the oxygen out and also to seat the beads properly and leave at 30ish psi. I can then stick it in a corner somewhere and let it age. That part I'm clear on.

What I don't seem to see is if there is a need to check the pressure every so often. I would expect the pressure to naturally come down as some of the gas is absorbed into the liquid and an equilibrium is slowly being reached between the liquid and headspace. But, as the pressure does come down, is there a need to boost it back up again? Will the pressure ever come down so much that oxygen is able to get in? Or can I set it and forget it until I'm ready to stick it on the gas to carb up?

Thanks

How is oxygen going to get back in? Once you purged and sealed it should be good to go.

 

[shamrockdoc]

Instead of chilling, carbing, then unchilling and storing. Just dump in some priming sugar. About half of what you would use to bottle a batch. And let it sit. That is what I do if I do not have space in the kegorator and know it will be a few weeks.

+1 on this. That is how I store/carb my kegs in waiting.

Special I dig your forum name.

 

[starrfish]

+1 on this. That is how I store/carb my kegs in waiting.

Me too but I go 1/3 of the priming sugar

 

[DarkUncle]

How is oxygen going to get back in? Once you purged and sealed it should be good to go.

Ok, thanks. That was part of my question. Can oxygen get back in somehow? I read somewhere that somebody regularly checked the CO2 in the conditioning kegs and put more in if necessary. I just didn't see the need to do that is all. Unless there is a leak I suppose.

So assuming there is no leak, I can feel confident that all will be well keeping kegs of beer at room temp for a few weeks off the CO2 once I have done the initial oxygen purge and filled to 30psi?

 

[elproducto]

I have 4 corny kegs that I got on the cheap. I'm not QUITE ready to get the co2 and everything, as I'm trying to find a decent deal on used first. Any reason for me not to brew a batch or two, and prime it with sugar and just leave it until I'm ready to setup my kegging gear?

 

[shamrockdoc]

I have 4 corny kegs that I got on the cheap. I'm not QUITE ready to get the co2 and everything, as I'm trying to find a decent deal on used first. Any reason for me not to brew a batch or two, and prime it with sugar and just leave it until I'm ready to setup my kegging gear?

you CAN prime beer with priming sugar in a KEG!

 

[elproducto]

you CAN prime beer with priming sugar in a KEG!

Great.. so the beer will keep fine I'm assuming?

 

[shamrockdoc]

yes pretend its a 5 gallon bottle 1/3 priming sugar put it away to condition.

 

[kinison_fan]

yes pretend its a 5 gallon bottle 1/3 priming sugar put it away to condition.

1/3 CUP priming sugar boiled, cooled, pour in keg, rack beer on top to mix.
Let sit 2-4-6-8 weeks it is good to go.

Currenly my rotation is: three on tap, 1 or 2 are carbing/standby.

When one blows foam, pull the empty out, drop the full one in (then I hook up the CO2 after it chills).

 

[autobaun70]

So assuming there is no leak, I can feel confident that all will be well keeping kegs of beer at room temp for a few weeks off the CO2 once I have done the initial oxygen purge and filled to 30psi?

Only problem you may run into here, sometimes they can be a bit of a pain to get sealed, a good shot of CO2 definitely helps out with that. not absolutely necessary. Talking with various people around the local home brew shop, nearly everybody I've talked to recommends at least setting the seal under pressure when naturally carbing.

 

[tomije87]

Only problem you may run into here, sometimes they can be a bit of a pain to get sealed, a good shot of CO2 definitely helps out with that. not absolutely necessary. Talking with various people around the local home brew shop, nearly everybody I've talked to recommends at least setting the seal under pressure when naturally carbing.

+1. Without the burst of CO2, you are taking a huge risk that the keg lid is NOT sealed and your batch being exposed to oxygen. You should probably get enough CO2 in the keg to seal the keg and purge any O2 left in the keg before letting it sit with the priming sugar to carb.

 

[shamrockdoc]

1. Brew
2. Primary (and Secondary if you choose)
3.Keg with 1/3 cup sugar
4.Hit keg with 10 PSI to seal keg
5.Store
6.Rotate into serving device
Repeat

 

[birvine]

+1 on hitting the keg with a shot of CO2. Mine will not seal otherwise. I'd hate to see you have this problem.

B

 

[BoxofRain]

Interesting stuff, 3 questions:

1) Does sugar priming a keg effect conditioning for good or bad? Does force carbing effect conditioning for that matter?

2) If you sugar prime a keg, do you have to let it sit and do it's thing before hooking it up to the co2? In other words lets say you kick another keg and hook up this primed keg before it's time. Will disaster ensue?

3) I forget the third question but will be sure to ask when I remember.

 

[mullenite]

1) not really and no, given equal conditioning time for both.

2) it might be a little sweeter.

 

[jakehale]

Search functions are great for opening old posts.

Instead of opening a new thread lets re-open this old one.

here is a really stupid question. through this whole thread everyone says to purge the O2,,, ready for it? How do you know when the O2 is out of the keg? when you pull the tab on the keg it "puffs" with the CO2 you have in the keg? Im not trying to be a smart a** just wondering.

I am going to start kegging as soon as Keg Cowboy gets all the parts they are waiting for and gets it out to me.

so beyond the "how do you know the O2 is out" question.

I will have a two tap system utilizing a refigerator as a my keg hold machine. of course i SHOULD have room in there for 4 or 5 kegs.

tell me if my steps are wrong.

-rack beer from fermenting vessal into keg.
-Place keg into fridge, hook up gas, set to 12 PSI (fridge is at 40-42*), purge O2 (goes with my very first question) close fridge and leave it alone for 2-3 weeks.
-do the same for my other tap
Now im outta taps
-rack beer from fermenting vessal into keg
-Place keg into fridge, hook up gas, purge O2, put 12 psi on it, disconnect gas. close fridge and wait until one of the kegs on tap runs out.
-remove spent keg, hook up one of the stand by kegs, connect gas set 12 psi close fridge and dont dispense for 1-2 weeks.

does that sound about right?

thanks folks
Jake

 

[heferly]

Sounds right, make sure you flush cleaner/sanitizer between kegs...i would also get a splitter to have an extra gas line so you can carb the extra keg while drinking the others...then its ready to swap out and drink, no waiting!

 

[wolfman_48442]

Jake,
The O2 is lighter than the CO2, so it's ready to leave anyway. Pull the release (you can just crack it, no need to open fully) count to 3, and you're O2 free!

 

[jakehale]

Jake,
The O2 is lighter than the CO2, so it's ready to leave anyway. Pull the release (you can just crack it, no need to open fully) count to 3, and you're O2 free!

thanks. i figured it something simple like that... but just wanted to make sure there was nothing "special" i was to be checking for all the O2 to be gone..

 

[jakehale]

Sounds right, make sure you flush cleaner/sanitizer between kegs...i would also get a splitter to have an extra gas line so you can carb the extra keg while drinking the others...then its ready to swap out and drink, no waiting!

i was thinking about that,,, just get one of those manifolds and have two lines for the two spare kegs.

oh yes and the cleaning of the lines between keg swapping,, ,that DID slip my mind. thanks for that point.

im excited to get the Kegs rolling,,, i know its only been 4 batches but bottling sucks.

ill still probably do a six pack per batch.....

 

[jakehale]

Now im outta taps
-rack beer from fermenting vessal into keg
-Place keg into fridge, hook up gas, purge O2, put 12 psi on it, disconnect gas. close fridge and wait until one of the kegs on tap runs out.
-remove spent keg, hook up one of the stand by kegs, connect gas set 12 psi close fridge and dont dispense for 1-2 weeks.

How big of difference would it be if this Keg couldnt stay in the fridge. Had to be kept at room temp.
would it matter?

thanks again

 

[heferly]

Its fine, it would just age...if its not going to be on gas all the time, just make sure your seals are good, and the o2 is purged well