• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Wood-Aged Beer StoneHedge, Oak Aged IPA (5-Gallon AG)

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just bottled my batch this past weekend. Took a taste of the beer when I bottled, and it tastes great! The oak and hops really come through. But I soaked the oak chips in scotch and the scotch flavor isn't there. I'm looking forward to labeling and drinking this batch in a couple weeks.
 
I brewed the Tits-Up IIPA and I am now a devoted BM fan. I changed it a bit and used all NZ hops but I digress. Reading this thread made me so damn excited to brew again, its been a month and I am having withdrawls. Kuddos BM. This will be my first oaked homebrew.

Cheers!!!

Just put this together. Its more of an omage. I dub thee 'Master Stumpy'

Mash Temp.
- 122 deg. @ 30min.
- 143 deg. @ 30min.
- 150 deg. @ 60min.

- The mash schedule is set this way b/c, at least for me, its more challenging.

Boil:
90 min.

Grains:
15# 2-Row
1# Rye
1# Crystal 60L
12 oz. Cara-pils
8 oz. Honey malt

Yeast:
Wyeast 1056 X3

Hops: - 126 IBUs
.75 oz. Falconer’s Flights 7Cs FWH 90 min.
.75 oz. Zythos FWH 90 min.
.5 oz Chinook FWH 90 min.

.5 oz. Amarillo 45 min.
.5 oz. Amarillo 30 min.

.1 oz. Nelson Sauvin 15 min.
.75 oz. FF 15 min.

1 oz. Zythos 5 min.
1 oz. FF 5 min.

1 oz Zythos 0 min.
1 oz FF 0 min.
1 oz NS 0 min.

** After flameout, drop the temp of the wort to 180 degrees and hold for 15 minutes to extract more flavor and aroma from late
addition hops.

DH:
1 oz. FF 14 days.
1 oz. Zythos 14 days.
1 oz. NS 14 days.
1 oz. Amarillo 14 days.



Age:
1 ounce oak chips, soaked in bourbon to sanitize, add to secondary after DH schedule.
- 66 deg. 1 month
 
This beer fermented into a monster 11.2% and still going. I ended up adding 1# clear candi sugar. The sample definitely has the rye bite which I am undecided on at the moment. Definitely needs aging.
 
Would it be so bad to add the wood chips to the keg and carb up... taste test for a few weeks or so, then remove the chips?:confused:...

I'm also thinking that you could hang the chips from the lid of the keg so that once you pull a few pints out its not sitting in the beer anymore?:drunk:

I ask because i have a kickass christmas ale i made that has been aging now a month (after fermentation stopped) and I want to add a bit oak flavor to it but not enough to take away from the work its done on its own.
 
Would it be so bad to add the wood chips to the keg and carb up... taste test for a few weeks or so, then remove the chips?:confused:...

I'm also thinking that you could hang the chips from the lid of the keg so that once you pull a few pints out its not sitting in the beer anymore?:drunk:

I ask because i have a kickass christmas ale i made that has been aging now a month (after fermentation stopped) and I want to add a bit oak flavor to it but not enough to take away from the work its done on its own.

That would work fine. A 1 gallon paint strainer bag works great.
 
I'm not kegging this beer so I'll be oaking during the secondary fermentation. Based on the durations of the dry hopping and the oak aging I am thinking that I could transfer to a secondary and add the oak and then 18 days later add the hops for dry hopping. Does this seem like a reasonable way to do it or would you recommend the dry hopping and the oaking be done sequentially?
 
Question for everyone. There’s a brewery in Richmond Va that uses poplar wood to age their IPA and it’s great. Has anyone here, ever used poplar?
 
Ruffins said:
Question for everyone. There’s a brewery in Richmond Va that uses poplar wood to age their IPA and it’s great. Has anyone here, ever used poplar?
I'm going to be in Richmond next week. What is the name of the brewery that has the poplar IPA . Sounds delicious.
 
I have a 4.5 Gallon oak barrel arriving soon. Full of beer. My plan is to use it to oak age my own once I've drunk whats in it.

I've not used oak or chips before, and see some posts that leaving it too long on chips overpowers it.
Do you think I may have this problem with barrel ageing?

I would either be ageing it to serve straight from the cask, or then rack it to a keg, depending on what I have free.
 
I have a 4.5 Gallon oak barrel arriving soon. Full of beer. My plan is to use it to oak age my own once I've drunk whats in it.

I've not used oak or chips before, and see some posts that leaving it too long on chips overpowers it.
Do you think I may have this problem with barrel ageing?

I would either be ageing it to serve straight from the cask, or then rack it to a keg, depending on what I have free.

I think you're fine. You're using a wooden barrel that has already hosted a beer. The flavore will be more subtle. :tank:
 
For some reason this question popped into my head: would it be better to dry hop for the 10 days just before you pull the oak and presumably bottle? I always assumed the aroma gained from dry hopping would fade if pulled and then left for that long in the fermenter for the oak..

This recipe looks awesome! Giving it a go in a few days with a yeast I harvested from a Darkhorse IPA.
 
I have made this 3 times and a true favorite. I found if I take 1 oak spiral put in the keg (put in fridge) for 6 weeks works best. This is after secondary dry hopping. I also soak oak spiral for 2 weeks in Wild Turkey Honey Bourbon. If new spiral I would soak in water for 1 week and then let dry. It cleans a lot of the "wood" particles off.
 
I have both American and French oak chips on hand. Which one would be best for this recipe? I bought both since I also have a stout that I will be oaking soon as well.
 
I just tried a bottle of this stuff and it was great. This was my first AG batch and everything went great. If you are thinking about making this do it! I'm already planing on making another batch.
 
I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I was reading the newest edition byo now I'm thinking about using Brett on this recipe. I'm getting wyeast 5526 (I believe that the #) anyway In the article it said that with Brett you need to use wheat or oats or the beer will be very thin bodied. On the example recipes the total grain bill had about 30 percent wheat. Should I just decrease the base malt by 30 percent and sub in the wheat? Please tell me what you think.
 
I'm planning on making this as my next brew this weekend. I was thinking about soaking the oak cubes in some red wine before I put them into the secondary. Hoping to end up with something similar to DFH 61. Has anyone tried this by chance?
 
Just got this one carbed up and it is awesome. I used oak sprials because that's all my LHBS had and decided against soaking it in red wine.

I would have liked to let it sit on the oak a little longer but I have some family coming in town this weekend and wanted it to be ready by then. To compensate I put the spiral in the keg. I'm currently trying to figure out a way to take a few bottles with me to a wedding I'll be going to in India in a couple months...
 
Just got a new oak barrel, going to do a Scottish ale then a porter and then this IPA in there - has anyone tried it in a barrel or just with chips?

Probably going to use san Diego yeast
 
Just put this in the keg for carbonating - aged in a new oak barrel (it was 2nd beer in there) for 2 weeks and the oak comes through slightly which is nice

Overall the hops give a bit of a strong fruit-loop aroma/taste which is actually pretty good, bitterness is not harsh at all - very smooth

Brett would make it really interesting
 
Ok so I'm going to have a go at this recipe but I'm not sure about the final steps due to the process I currently use. When I brew the beer is fermented and once this is complete I syphon it to either bottles or barrels, add a little priming sugar and leave it to prime and clear. Obviously to do the priming part I need a certain amount of yeast in the beer.

If I make this recipe and rack the beer after fermentation so I can add the oak chippings for a few weeks and then transfer to my barrel or bottles afterwards will there be sufficient yeast left in the beer to prime it or not.
 
Ok so I'm going to have a go at this recipe but I'm not sure about the final steps due to the process I currently use. When I brew the beer is fermented and once this is complete I syphon it to either bottles or barrels, add a little priming sugar and leave it to prime and clear. Obviously to do the priming part I need a certain amount of yeast in the beer.

If I make this recipe and rack the beer after fermentation so I can add the oak chippings for a few weeks and then transfer to my barrel or bottles afterwards will there be sufficient yeast left in the beer to prime it or not.

You'll definitely have enough yeast left to do the carbonating, I wouldn't worry about it
 
Did this one in a 10 gallon run, 5 I stayed as it was, then did 5 gallons with wood cubes. The wood cubes I did 4 oz in Jim Beam First Cut for about a month then drained them off, bagged it and dropped it into the keg for about 2 weeks. Both are awesome, can say that either are better, just different in there platform. Thanks for a great Recipe!
 
Back
Top