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You may here a lot of people recommending kegging...It's up to you what ultimately you choose to do. But don't let zealots convince you that no one bottles...actually there is probably a vast majority of brewers who still bottle for various reason. And even many experienced keggars rack some of their beer to bottles and prime and condition with sugar, or they use a beer gun (either blickman or Biermuncher's) to fill some bottles.

If you enter contests then bottling is a must.

I don't have the space or money to keg right now, nor do I think in the future when I move out of my loft will I keg exclusively. There is still something about cracking open a bottle of your own beer. And not many people want to take a keg on a picnic or to a game, when a six pack will do (and it's hard to stick a keg in your pocket when you are trying to sneak a beer in somewhere, not that I know anything about sneaking homebrew in.)

Bottling doesn't have to be a chore.

The trick to bottling is to make the process work for you...to make yourself as comfortable as possible doing it. It took me a few batches but I got it dialed in enough to get it done in about an hour for a 5 gallon batch....not including clean up. One of my half batches can be done in 20 minutes

You just gotta dial in your process,....try different things until they work for you, until you've pimped it down to the bare minimum of steps...and practice practice practice...and if it doesn't work for you, then scrap it and change it again...

Eventually you will find exactly what works for you.

For example I hated the bottling wand on the end of a hose, with the bottles in beer case method, that most people use..You know, then one shown in Papazian's book where the bucket is on the counter and you sit on the floor and fill the bottles sitting in the cases....well the first time I did that, I lost track of where I was in order, and actually capped about a half dozen empty bottles...as well as spilling a sh*tload of beer because I could really see when the wand was putting the beer to the lip of the bottle....a ton would spill out....

Plus sitting for so long on the floor was bad for my back....

So I kept tweaking my process until I was happy...


I have my bottling wand mounted right on my bucket's spigot...

bottling_wand.jpg



So I can sit at my dining room table and fill bottles confortably...I prop my bucket on a pot, or fermenter bucket to bring it up to my eye level. (Actually that pot is too low, I have now moved it to the top of my boil kettle...a fermenter bucket is about the same height and works great as well.

bottling1.jpg


I have a dip tube in my bucket so I get all but about 4 ounces of stuff from my bottling bucket. What that means in my case is about another 6 pack of beer- 54 bottles instead of 48.

dip1.jpg


dip2.jpg


Here's an overview of my process

The first thing I do is set the fermenter on my dining room table, and open it (briefly) to take a gravity reading, so I can calculate the amount of priming sugar I need. (I carb to style and use beersmith to tell me how much I need.) Most of you in your first few batches will be using the stock 4.5 - 5 ounce packets that came with you ingredient kit.

Putting the fermenter in position first gives some time to let the beer settle since I just moved it. Some folks put it in position hours ahead of time, but I've never seen the need.

After I've set the bucket down, and figured out how much sugar I need, I measure it out and set it to boil. I start my priming sugar water boiling.

Then I start sanitizing my gear. I fill my bottling bucket with about 2 gallons of diluted starsan, and add my auto siphon, my bottling wand, my dip tube setup and anything else I may need into it, after first swirling around the bucket a few times to spread the sanitizer along all the sides of it. I then set the bucket on the table, and autosiphon about half of the sanitizer into another bucket. This sanitzes the inside of the autosiphon and the hose. After abut a gallon to gallon and a half of sanitizer has run through it. I open the spigot to flush that with the remained of the sanitizer as well.

Then I install the dip tube that is pictured above.

By now I usually can hear the boiling of my solution in the kitchen. I check on it, and perhaps lower the heat a bit to a gentle boil.

Then I begin to sanitize my bottles with my vinator....after the first case is sanitzed then take the priming solution off the stove to let it cool a bit, you can set it in a bit of cold water in your sink. Then I go back and sanitize my second case and final sixpack of bottles.

After sanitizing I count out my bottlecaps and drop them in my vinator to sanitize. I set my bottling bucket below the fermenter and pour half of the priming solution into the bottom of the bucket then I start racking the beer on top of it. When I get to 2.5 gallons I I add the remainder of the solution to the bucket.

When ready I put a pot lid on top of the bottling bucke, and gently lift it on top of a pot, or the empty primary bucket and clip on the bottling wand to the spigot. Then I get ready to bottle.

Since I'm a lefty I work right to left on my table....I put my two cases of sanitized bottles on the right hand side of the table (on the chair next to me,) I put the vinator on the table to the right of the bucket filled with my bottles caps sanitizing away. Then when I fill the bottle I place a cap loosely on it, and move it to the left side of the table...with the bottling bucket in the middle of the table there's room for a case worth of filled bottles on the table on the left side.

When I hit 24 bottles, I stand up, move the empty case to a chair on the left side of the table, then I pick up my capper and cap the first case of bottles, putting them in the case on the chair nearby...Then I grab a beer from the fridge, and sit back down and do the next case of beer....

I can get them all done and the bottling bucket and stuff soaking in oxyclean between 45 minutes and an hour....
 
I wanted to add a few more notes and a couple more pictures.

To illustrate how each brewer should tweak a process (anyone one, not just bottling) until it works for them, Grinder1200 took my idea of mounting the wand on his bucket, and added it to using his dishwater as a bottle filling rack. (I don't have a dishwater in my cubbyhole kitchen, but if I did, I would probably do the same thing..though I do enjoy sitting to bottle.

best954.jpg


A lot of people have asked where I got the clamps for the the wand.

I get these from my lhbs, to clamp the wand to my sigot, I use a 1 inch "bridge" piece of bottling hose....If the LHBS doesn't have them, I'm sure you can find them a a hardware store too...it's nice because there is no worry about rusting, of the fact that sometimes the screw is galvanized.

SNP-10.jpg


I don't label unless I'm giving bottles away as gifts, then I don't use traditional labels, I bottle hanging tags. I designed the template and it is freely available online. Thanks to Morotorium

After looking all day for hanging tags templates for bottles, I made up one of my own as a MS word Document.

Bottle%20tags.jpg


Each tag is approx 2 inches wide, and the text area after the fold is about 5 inches.


I don't like to glue labels on, especially since I spend so much time removing them (Although some folks swear by milk as label glue). So I like the idea of a hanging tag that slips over the neck of the bottle and hangs there. I printed it out on thick photopaper. All you need to do is cut them out, cut out the hole for the neck (or just make 2 slits at the cross) and fold it downword.

You just basically need to stick a graphic in each space, and add your own text to the text blocks...Or move stuff around and add your own text boxes wherever you want it.

Here's the links from MoRoToRiUm
Sample

Template

When I bottle I just write on the bottlecap with a sharpie a letter code for the name of the beer I brewed. For Example, Old Bog Road (my brown ale) is simply OBR...If I have multiple batches of the same beer going at the same time, I will add a letter code as well.

Again, there are plenty of ways to do just about every aspect of brewing, and the trick is to make it work for you. This is a hobby, not something to do battle with. Even something that some people consider a pain, such as bottling can become as effortless as you choose to make it. All it takes it experimentation; trying something new until it works for you.

:mug:
 
On using the search feature....

I've learned some things about the search feature here that can make it less frustratiing and more accurate.

You CAN actually tweak it to work for you and can save your preferences for using it again next time....

Don't use the standard drop down search...when you pull it down click on advanced search, which will give you a full page...Or you can right click on it and open it as a new window or tab...

On the top left is a box that says "Search by key word" then there is a text box below that...below that is a drop down menu...you have the option to search by titles or for the word in the thread...unless I know a specific title phrased perfectly, I change it to search IN THREAD for the key word...unless the word is too short OR to common you will find more information by searching inside the threads..

On the right hand you can select the name of a poster....(I betcha if you searched for posts by me, you'd find something) or you can leave it blank..

I ignore all the search options below that EXCEPT the one labeled "Show results as"

I usually select threads rather than posts...because if you choose posts, you may end up with EVERY POST in a single thread that has your word...and not necessarily be the thread you are looking for...if you select show as threads, you will get a list of threads instead...

This MIGHT be the singular issue with people using the search and why they don't like it...

And then at the bottom, you can save the preferences so that all the time you use the advanced search it is set that way...

The search isn't great...but a couple quick hacks in advanced search and you will find what you need.

search.jpg


The thing to me about searching is two fold, and I really hate coming off as a search nazi, BUT

1) There is a huuuge amount of state of the art brewing info on here...info that is even more current than palmer (only becasue it takes 2-3 years to get a book out.) Some of us have spent hours writing stuff up, like blogs or long answers to basic questions, including searching for links like audio and video casts to answer those basic questions...And we want you to know it exists, and we want you to utilize it to be the best damn brewer's you can be.

SO when I say it's been covered before, I'm not saying "hey a$$hat, use the search."

I'm saying "Hey, there's some kick ass info on that very topic, put together from some amazing brewers, and it's free, right here, you don't need to buy a book....all you need to do is click "search" and maybe play with the words a couple times...


2) A lot of the "kick ass brewers" who are here, and were here before I got here have stopped answering the same noob questions over and over. Most of those people get tired of it after a couple months, and just ignore these threads...From what people tell me, for doing it constantly for a year, I'm an anomoly....maybe because of my 'calling" (yes I am a minister for the 10,000th time ) I have an almost pathological need to help people...whether it's in a church or in a brewery.

Which means that the people who might be best able to answer your basic question are NOT going to because they did it 6 months ago, and feel that that's enough. Or they are no longer here...but their info is still here and still valuable...

So that really means that if you just start a thread, especially if you are asking about "Stainless vs Aluminum" or Plastic waterbottles or "is my beer ruined," or "what;s your opinion on...?" You may not GET THE BEST INFORMATION YOU COULD BE GETTING You could be getting the same outdated "party line" out of Palmer or Papazian, (which are actually several years of in the case of Charlie over a decade old) when there was some new discovery a few weeks back that we all talked to death and learned from...and we want you to know about it too...

I also have found, as someone that answers a lot of questions everyday, that if a person reads a thread on their "basic question" first and maybe bumps that thread up, that their question has a lot more depth than it might have been...because maybe they zeroed in on an issue from one or more of the posts in a thread...and then rather than,

"What's that fuzzy stuff on top of my beer?" To "Oh I thought my beer was infected, now I know it's a krauzen, it's normal, and it has proteins and other things in it, so what kinda proteins are there, do they come from the yeasts, the wort or both, and should I skim it or not?"

Which is more fun for me to answer because it may lead me to search, or to google or to recall some fuzzy bit of info I heard on a podcast and go search for it for you...and for me...


Hope this helps, and I hope you realize that those of us who suggest that you search for an answer not trying to be mean to you, nor are we lazy...we just want you to have the best brewing info that there is to be found on here...and there is plenty of it.

:mug:
 
Rules.

1) KISS
2) If I disagree or am convinced it can't be summed up in a sentence or 3, I'll delete it.
3) Eventually all discussion posts will be deleted or edited so that only the KISS advice remains.
4) One topic per post. Keep it minimal or it will be MERCILESSLY edited or deleted at my whim.
5) Again. Stuff will be MERCILESSLY deleted at my whim.
Just sayin'.
 
after cleaning bottles and or removing labels, dump (drain) each bottle's remaining liquid one last time before storing. This should help to reduce any possible build up at the bottom of the bottle.
 
How in the hell did you find those 9 words in that 1,000 word post? :D

Just goes to show...some people actually read what I have to say with interest, despite it's length...

Or maybe only ministers do, since we tend to be verbose...

Pizzaman, neither my handle or avatars gave it away? :D
Actually there are quite a few of us on here...Brewpastor comes to mind immediately.
 
It is highly unlikely that your batch is completely ruined. Never dump potential beer down the drain until you wait it out and taste it in finished condition.

Even after you have waited the 'rule of thumb' timeframe and your beer still tastes funny - DONT DUMP IT!!

Unless its non-palletable chances are it WILL IMPROVE and really surprise you!
-Me
 
The thing is about searching the forum, some people having read 3 or 4 posts which are merely giving opinions can be left feeling somewhat confused and are looking for confirmation that what they are about to tip into their precious beer isn't going to ruin it, god forbid. And let's face it, a lot of the information on beer making is personal preference or personal experience. Yet other people, like myself, may have a tendancy to seek constant reassurance from those around them and while fully competent in carrying out a fairly clear set of instructions, like to ask "is this what everybody else is doing?" and in doing so are also participating in the community aspect of a forum which would not really be classed as participation in a one way interaction of search, click, read, search, click, read.
 
1) Use a bottling bucket, it is much more precise than priming each individual bottle.

2) To make sure your priming sugar gets dissolved and mixed into the beer properly, measure out your priming sugar, boil a quarter to half cup of water, stir the priming sugar into that and let the sugar dissolve, pour the sugar mixture in the empty sanitized bottling bucket. Rack the beer on top of that, stir gently and bottle.

3) To empty a carboy very quickly, insert a length of hose, turn the carboy upside down and make sure that the hose is in the airspace at the top of the carboy. Instead of the "glug-glug" you normally get you will have water gushing out like crazy.
 
Best advise I ever had. It just took me about 7 brews to take it to heart:

Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew.

Little unexpected things can and will happen while you brew. Learn how to fix the problem or how to not worry about it. The beer more often then not will turn out great no matter what!
 
One day a year... take off work, school, whatever it is you do, and brew your favorite batch of beer. Nothing better than a stress-free day of making beer.
 
My first batch mistakes:
Pitched yeast at too high of temp
Transfered to secondary too early
Light was left on for 2 days while sitting in the carboy
I "sanitized" using only hot water from my tap
Put dextrose directly in the bottles in powder form.
Used my mouth to start a siphon
Let to much air in my beer while racking

....... My first batch was amazing, yours will be too.
 
Every homebrewer has been told by their friends they should sell this stuff. No, it's not legal. Going pro is tough and expensive but not impossible. A lot of people will tell you you can, a lot will tell you you can't. Who to prove wrong is your decision.
 
All of the information on how to brew can be overwhelming. Don't be intimidated. Just do it.

You will hear 'don't dump your beer' a million times, but if you don't like your beer, you shouldn't keep it. Just figure out WHY you don't like your beer and how to fix it. Brew another batch and see if you corrected your problem before dumping the old batch.
 
You will hear 'don't dump your beer' a million times, but if you don't like your beer, you shouldn't keep it. Just figure out WHY you don't like your beer and how to fix it. Brew another batch and see if you corrected your problem before dumping the old batch.

Sorry, but most of us would not agree with the above statement. In fact it is repeated several times throughout this thread AND the forum...Think about this, there must be good a reason that so many people say not to throw out your beer, right?"

Even after you have waited the 'rule of thumb' timeframe and your beer still tastes funny - DONT DUMP IT!!

Unless its non-palletable chances are it WILL IMPROVE and really surprise you!
-Me

Bobby_ said:
It is highly unlikely that your batch is completely ruined. Never dump potential beer down the drain until you wait it out and taste it in finished condition.

If you are new to brewing and don't like your beer, more than likely your beer is simply still green.....You will find tons of stories on here about waiting and having our beer turn out better than expected...

Don't Dump Your beer.....put it in a closet and forget about it for at least a month, then revisit it....99% of the time you will be pleasantly surprised.

Read this for inspiration.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/ne...virtue-time-heals-all-things-even-beer-73254/

And this https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/wh...where-your-beer-still-turned-out-great-96780/

As you can see there are a lot of stories of beer turning out in time, often being the best batch the brewer made....

If you dump your beer immediately there is 100% chance the beer is undrinkable, if you wait the odds that your beer IS DRINKABLE greatly improve....

And if you are judging your beer in a fermenter, you can't get an accurate picture of how your beer tastes until it is carbed and conditioned. If it's in the bottle or keg, then put it away for awhile.....
 
Revvy, I'm going to respectfully disagree with you. Some beer faults can't be cured with time.

My key point in saying you can chuck it is understanding WHY it has a fault and correcting it before you chuck. It took me a couple of batches to work out my carbonation problems, I was underfilling bottles and no amount of time was going to correct that.

I feel that sometimes the 'let it age' approach is overemphasized here, rather than troubleshooting. I agree that it's rash to throw something out if you don't like it at first taste (especially if you are tasting in the fermenter, that's just silly).
 
Revvy, I'm going to respectfully disagree with you. Some beer faults can't be cured with time.

My key point in saying you can chuck it is understanding WHY it has a fault and correcting it before you chuck. It took me a couple of batches to work out my carbonation problems, I was underfilling bottles and no amount of time was going to correct that.

I feel that sometimes the 'let it age' approach is overemphasized here, rather than troubleshooting. I agree that it's rash to throw something out if you don't like it at first taste (especially if you are tasting in the fermenter, that's just silly).

I agree with you, but I think the 'Dont Dump It' motto comes from the fact that while its okay to 'troubleshoot' what went wrong, lots of newer brewers try to do their troubleshooting WAY too early. (Which causes them to obsess, and one bad thought leads to another etc until the beer is prematurely dumped) When in reality you should just set it and forget it. "Troubleshooting" it to death isnt going to do much good especially if it has no age behind it. :)
-Me
 
Revvy, I'm going to respectfully disagree with you. Some beer faults can't be cured with time.

My key point in saying you can chuck it is understanding WHY it has a fault and correcting it before you chuck. It took me a couple of batches to work out my carbonation problems, I was underfilling bottles and no amount of time was going to correct that.

I feel that sometimes the 'let it age' approach is overemphasized here, rather than troubleshooting. I agree that it's rash to throw something out if you don't like it at first taste (especially if you are tasting in the fermenter, that's just silly).

Well, it's really hard to diagnose a GREEN beer, because young beer tasting the way that it often does, IS PERFECTLY NORMAL

And if you ever helped a new brewer on here it won't take you too long to realize that Most new brewers try to judge a beer while it is still in the fermenter, and either dump the beer or start a panic thread. OR they taste the beer under three weeks in the bottle, dump the beer OR start a panic thread.

Because green beers OFTEN HAVE OFF FLAVORS, but the difference between green beer and a beer with problems to be troubleshooted, is that the green beers improve with time.

Or they misdiagnose a beer, because honestly it is often difficult for someone without experience to diagnose a beer from something they read...ESPECIALLY if they are tasting green beer.

And if you follow up the new brewer's threads OFTEN they come back down the line and say, "Oh my god, I am so glad I listened to you and didn't dump my beer, I realize now that it WAS just green, it taste great now. "

You don't have too far to look, just search for "is my beer ruined" or "Off Flavor" and you will see.

That's why the first question those of us who help ask is, "How old is this beer."

It's great to trouble shoot your beer, or get help, but you first have to figure out if there was a problem to begin with. And that can only happen if first you give the beer a bit more time....

And you can't do that if you dump your beer.

So I'm sorry you disagree with those of us who advocate waiting, but your advice to just arbitrarily dump a beer, is simply bad, we have hundreds of threads, and stories that prove you wrong.
 
First I am going to apologize because I have not held true to the rules that I laid out for this thread.
Rules.

1) KISS
2) If I disagree or am convinced it can't be summed up in a sentence or 3, I'll delete it.
3) Eventually all discussion posts will be deleted or edited so that only the KISS advice remains.
4) One topic per post. Keep it minimal or it will be MERCILESSLY edited or deleted at my whim.
5) Again. Stuff will be MERCILESSLY deleted at my whim.

I envisioned this to be cue card length.
1- 3 sentences.
Easy to remember.
I have not edited mercilessly as I intended.

Someday in the next 15 years when I am recovering from a prostate surgery, I'll come back and edit out the lengthy posts.
 
And now, as it pertains to our latest imbroglio.

I think it would be fair to say that you should taste you beer at various points and reserve judgement until bottling time.

If at that point it tastes bad; and you have more money than time; or you are more impatient than curious dump most of it.

Bottle 3 and prime with carb tabs and evaluate after 1, 2, 3 months later.
 
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