Do this. EVA barrier tubing. Don't settle for Home Depot tubing.
Still new, but decided to ditch bottling and try kegging
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To keep oxygen out of your beer. Especially compared to silicone. And some people claim they can taste vinyl tubing even if it is food grade. Also, smaller ID means shorter beer lines.
Yeah, at least until one decides enough of home brewing and sell all the stuff for pennies on the dollar.
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Like @mac_1103 said: Keeps the O2 out, plus; silicone tubing is not generally used for pressure-dispensing. Since you're still kinda new it's easy to dismiss the permeability of silicone after all, so many of us use it in our brewing systems..but that's only for use during a brewday after which it has to be thoroughly cleaned and dried. The less mentioned side of being O2 permeable is pathways created within the silicone for microbial growths. Here's thread that lets you see with your own eyes, the consequences of O2 permeability: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...o-wants-to-see-it-with-their-own-eyes.727779/
And some more: It is just a strong recommendation that whenever you buy a used kegerator, the first thing you do is toss the old lines because you have no idea what shape they're actually in..this being the case, you might as well go with EVABarrier from the get-go. Here's another recent thread that has some useful information and links to most of the bits you'd need; https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...stes-off-after-few-days.735917/#post-10450124
In any event: DON'T spend any money yet! Read through everything, take some time to consider which way you want to go, and come back and tell us your choices. Hope this is helpful.
PS; Maybe post some pics of the stuff you bought in case some detail may have escaped mention so far.
OP
OP
ok, the perlick tap is pretty filthy, the beer line connects to a shank on the back of that tap with a barb connection. (going to take the perlick apart and give it a nice soak and scrub in pbw)
So if i buy the EVA lines from that brewhardware site, should i just get a new shank to connect the perlick tap to aswell? So i can get some of the lines with the duotight connectors on instead of my barb connection.
And with the shank, is there any special type i need for a perlick or are they all universal so to speak?
So if i buy the EVA lines from that brewhardware site, should i just get a new shank to connect the perlick tap to aswell? So i can get some of the lines with the duotight connectors on instead of my barb connection.
And with the shank, is there any special type i need for a perlick or are they all universal so to speak?
My tupperware tumbler has a PRV and a gas post on it.
Attachments
OP
OP
ok, since I'm replacing tubes with EVA tubing, would this work for the whole shebang?
Gas line: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CO2Hose_EVA_BL_FFL
Beer line: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BevHose_BL_TP_EVA_DUO
Tap shank: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=shankSStowerPush
Nukatap: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=NukaTapFaucetFlowControl
That way I've got hardware that's all compatible. I can disconnect the screw end of the beer line using the quick connector and just connect it to the shank. (also gives me a spare quick connect if i need it).
Gas line: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CO2Hose_EVA_BL_FFL
Beer line: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BevHose_BL_TP_EVA_DUO
Tap shank: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=shankSStowerPush
Nukatap: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=NukaTapFaucetFlowControl
That way I've got hardware that's all compatible. I can disconnect the screw end of the beer line using the quick connector and just connect it to the shank. (also gives me a spare quick connect if i need it).
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It depends on a few things:
2/ Does the output of your regulator have the 1/4"MFL output this line is set up for, or is it the more common 5/16" or 3/8" barb?
"Duotight adapter (push fit) with female beer thread for connection to the back of a non-barbed faucet shank." which you have no use for as the appropriate 8mm (5/16") > 6.35mm (1/4") line-to-shank adapter is included in your next item:
Flow Control faucets were introduced in recent years as the answer to the problem of foamy pours resulting from improperly balanced dispensing systems....most tradtional venues until this century, had installed their systems balanced for the usual level of carbonation in the same brews served decade after decade. As higher carbonated beers became more popular, greater resistance had to be added to the beer lines; enter: the Flow Control Faucet. For the homebrewer who wants the option of serving the occasional higher CO2-volume beer but wants to keep their lines balanced for more usual lower carbed brews, it makes sense to keep an FC tap around.... unfortunately high number of homebrewers would rather use less than ideal length lines and use FC faucets to compensate for thier imbalanced system...flame me if you like, I just think that's lazy not to mention; more expensive. If you do want another tap, just get the regular non-FC Nuka or Perlick.
BTW: Is there only the one tap in your tower? If you're planning for more taps, you might want to buy a roll of EVABarrier.
If you want short lines, though not as popular, you can consider the 3mm ID EVABarrier. I use 37" of the 3mm in my own kegerator becasue I wanted to get rid of the hanging coils I had...when I changed over to 3mm, there weren't many fittings available, and I kinda went my own way. (you can see it here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...mm-monotight-connector-duotight-shank.730515/ ) There are probably fittings for 3mm available by now.
In any event; Keep looking at options and only hit the 'buy' button when you know what every piece is for.....in the event your regulator has a barb, a read through this thread may help fill in some details for you: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/eva-barrier-line-conversion.733937/
- 1 of EVAbarrier tubing , 4mm ID X 5/16" OD (3ft length for gas) ($1.99 value!)
- 1 of Ball Lock Keg Disconnect - DUOTIGHT 8mm - GAS Side - ($5.49 value!)
- 1 of Push Fit Fitting (Duotight) - 1/4" FFL x 5/16 Tube ($3.25 value!)
2/ Does the output of your regulator have the 1/4"MFL output this line is set up for, or is it the more common 5/16" or 3/8" barb?
The 4mm ID EVABarrier is by far the most popular choice for beer line, but this one you linked to has:
"Duotight adapter (push fit) with female beer thread for connection to the back of a non-barbed faucet shank." which you have no use for as the appropriate 8mm (5/16") > 6.35mm (1/4") line-to-shank adapter is included in your next item:
Good call.
Not sure why you're buying another tap since you mention already having the excellent Perlick FC... (if it's the plated chrome rather than the Stainless Steel version, I can understand.) I should provide some info here about Flow Control taps:
Flow Control faucets were introduced in recent years as the answer to the problem of foamy pours resulting from improperly balanced dispensing systems....most tradtional venues until this century, had installed their systems balanced for the usual level of carbonation in the same brews served decade after decade. As higher carbonated beers became more popular, greater resistance had to be added to the beer lines; enter: the Flow Control Faucet. For the homebrewer who wants the option of serving the occasional higher CO2-volume beer but wants to keep their lines balanced for more usual lower carbed brews, it makes sense to keep an FC tap around.... unfortunately high number of homebrewers would rather use less than ideal length lines and use FC faucets to compensate for thier imbalanced system...flame me if you like, I just think that's lazy not to mention; more expensive. If you do want another tap, just get the regular non-FC Nuka or Perlick.
BTW: Is there only the one tap in your tower? If you're planning for more taps, you might want to buy a roll of EVABarrier.
If you want short lines, though not as popular, you can consider the 3mm ID EVABarrier. I use 37" of the 3mm in my own kegerator becasue I wanted to get rid of the hanging coils I had...when I changed over to 3mm, there weren't many fittings available, and I kinda went my own way. (you can see it here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...mm-monotight-connector-duotight-shank.730515/ ) There are probably fittings for 3mm available by now.
In any event; Keep looking at options and only hit the 'buy' button when you know what every piece is for.....in the event your regulator has a barb, a read through this thread may help fill in some details for you: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/eva-barrier-line-conversion.733937/
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So these videos are mostly about the kegerator and setup of it, but he goes into pretty good detail about EvaBarrier lines, lengths, the push fittings, etc., and is pretty much what I followed when setting up mine. If you've got about 20 minutes to skim through both videos, they're worth the time I think.
Link is for part 1 of 2
Link is for part 1 of 2
Brewer dad
Well-Known Member
So I’ve skimmed this thread and haven’t seen this concept brought up yet. Now that you’re kegging it’s pretty easy to hook things up to your fermenter to use fermentation to purge your kegs. The below thread is fermonster based but it’s an easy concept to apply to most anything really.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...lete-closed-transfer-system-for-cheap.680992/
He’s a link to some info about burst carbonating. Brulosophy seems to be something a lot of people feel one of two ways about, but I personally have been using this method for a couple of years with good results. I like most of my beers on the lower carbonation side so do 35psi for 24 hours on cold beer and then set to 10psi.
A thing I really like about this method is it helps me keep things closed up, and is consistent, as long as you remember to check on your beer lol.
https://brulosophy.com/methods/carbonation-methods/
Finally if you do over carbonate here’s a great way to fix it.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/overcarbed-keg-heres-an-instant-solution.127655/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...lete-closed-transfer-system-for-cheap.680992/
He’s a link to some info about burst carbonating. Brulosophy seems to be something a lot of people feel one of two ways about, but I personally have been using this method for a couple of years with good results. I like most of my beers on the lower carbonation side so do 35psi for 24 hours on cold beer and then set to 10psi.
A thing I really like about this method is it helps me keep things closed up, and is consistent, as long as you remember to check on your beer lol.
https://brulosophy.com/methods/carbonation-methods/
Finally if you do over carbonate here’s a great way to fix it.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/overcarbed-keg-heres-an-instant-solution.127655/
I've been tempted to get sippy cups because they'd limit exposure between sips and they could be handy by the end of a long night.
Apparently a somewhat unpopular comment, none the less true.
Craigslist and or Marketplace has saved me lots of money on brew gear acquisitions from people getting out for whatever reason.
When one door closes, another opens.
"A third option is to capture the CO2 coming off of your fermentation to purge the keg. This requires an truly airtight fermenter (don't even try with a plastic bucket.) I would save this method until you have some kegging experience under your belt."
Brew on
OP
OP
ok, for now, my regulator has a barb, so I'm going to order the gas line anyway and then worry about the conversion later for that side of things. I found this regulator that would probably work fine I reckon: https://www.amazon.com/SPARC-Regulator-Kegerator-Kombucha-Warranty/dp/B0CHT1RXNV. (Yes this has two connectors to kegs. Because I plan on having a two keg set up so i can have a lager and an ale depending on what i feel like that weekendIt depends on a few things:
Good choice if: 1/ you are going to put your CO2 cylinder inside the kegerator...if it's going to be on the outside with the line run through the wall, you might want a slightly longer line.
- 1 of EVAbarrier tubing , 4mm ID X 5/16" OD (3ft length for gas) ($1.99 value!)
- 1 of Ball Lock Keg Disconnect - DUOTIGHT 8mm - GAS Side - ($5.49 value!)
- 1 of Push Fit Fitting (Duotight) - 1/4" FFL x 5/16 Tube ($3.25 value!)
2/ Does the output of your regulator have the 1/4"MFL output this line is set up for, or is it the more common 5/16" or 3/8" barb?
The 4mm ID EVABarrier is by far the most popular choice for beer line, but this one you linked to has:
"Duotight adapter (push fit) with female beer thread for connection to the back of a non-barbed faucet shank." which you have no use for as the appropriate 8mm (5/16") > 6.35mm (1/4") line-to-shank adapter is included in your next item:
Good call.
Not sure why you're buying another tap since you mention already having the excellent Perlick FC... (if it's the plated chrome rather than the Stainless Steel version, I can understand.) I should provide some info here about Flow Control taps:
Flow Control faucets were introduced in recent years as the answer to the problem of foamy pours resulting from improperly balanced dispensing systems....most tradtional venues until this century, had installed their systems balanced for the usual level of carbonation in the same brews served decade after decade. As higher carbonated beers became more popular, greater resistance had to be added to the beer lines; enter: the Flow Control Faucet. For the homebrewer who wants the option of serving the occasional higher CO2-volume beer but wants to keep their lines balanced for more usual lower carbed brews, it makes sense to keep an FC tap around.... unfortunately high number of homebrewers would rather use less than ideal length lines and use FC faucets to compensate for thier imbalanced system...flame me if you like, I just think that's lazy not to mention; more expensive. If you do want another tap, just get the regular non-FC Nuka or Perlick.
BTW: Is there only the one tap in your tower? If you're planning for more taps, you might want to buy a roll of EVABarrier.
If you want short lines, though not as popular, you can consider the 3mm ID EVABarrier. I use 37" of the 3mm in my own kegerator becasue I wanted to get rid of the hanging coils I had...when I changed over to 3mm, there weren't many fittings available, and I kinda went my own way. (you can see it here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...mm-monotight-connector-duotight-shank.730515/ ) There are probably fittings for 3mm available by now.
In any event; Keep looking at options and only hit the 'buy' button when you know what every piece is for.....in the event your regulator has a barb, a read through this thread may help fill in some details for you: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/eva-barrier-line-conversion.733937/
For the rest:
The Perlick is in pretty bad shape from what I can see. I has gunk all over it and inside it. The flow control is seizing up. So I'm going to soak it in PBW for a few hours and see what it will lift, then scrub what i can and see what i can take apart on it and clean all the insides out properly. So rather than worry about it, I'm going to get another one (and once i put two kegs in at a time, then I have two taps.
. However the point you make about flow control is interesting. As I actually don't like highly carbonated anything. If it were just me drinking the beer, I'd drink it flat, as I happy to enjoy it that way (most places I used to drink in England always had a nice homebrew batch going that was cheap, flat and delightful).
But from what I understand, you're saying the shorter the line the less balanced the dispensing system is. So the FC taps counter the short lines. And your restrictive 3mm tube helps to balance the imbalance on shorter lines because there's a more restrictived flow already in place? Am I getting that right?
If yes, then I definitely think I'll just go with the FC taps, as I do want as short a line as I can get really.
The line with the duotight adapter and female beer thread to non barbed faucet, I would simply disconnect the female thread from the end of the pipe and attach the pipe into the duotight connector on the shank. I didn't see any pipes with only the ball lock on one end and nothing on the other. So i figured it wouldn't do any harm to just get this one instead and remove one end. That way i know they've cut the pipe straight too, and I don't need to worry about it
.Roll of eva barrier pipe is on my list to find a cheap supplier.
The good news is: I just plugged in the kegerator after a nice 24hr wait after I transported it on its side. It's got the keg and tank inside of it now and I have a handy dandy tap to connect directly to the keg for now that I bought a while ago when I thought I was going to keep everything inside of a mini fridge. So tomorrow I get to pour my first cold beer (oktoberfest) from the keg and I'm looking forward to it
And thank you for all of the thought out information. Really glad I read this first.
Yes.
I bought these: 8mm (OD) to 9.5mm (OD) Reducer, and 6.5mm (ID) 9.5mm (OD) EVA tubing. I plan to force a short length of the 6.5mm ID tubing over the barbs on my regulator, and use the reducer to step down to 4mm ID tubing for most of the length of my gas lines. Some folks have managed to get the smaller diameter tubing over a barb, but I think the larger ID will be much easier to deal with.
Brew on
OP
OP
Pulled the tap and got the gear ordered so I can get the tap set up properly from the get go. So until it arrives, I'll enjoy beer from the on keg tap I have (which funnily enough has a flow control on it too, which I think it's going to need from the sounds of it).
Incidently, how many 5g corny's should I expect a 2.5lb tank of C02 to handle? How many for a 5lb tank? I have both now thanks to the offerup buy. Just need to go get the 5lb one exchanged. Or should I just get them both exchanged for a bigger 10lb tank? Think that'd fit ok in the kegerator on the lip?
(which funnily enough has a flow control on it too, which I think it's going to need from the sounds of it).Incidently, how many 5g corny's should I expect a 2.5lb tank of C02 to handle? How many for a 5lb tank? I have both now thanks to the offerup buy. Just need to go get the 5lb one exchanged. Or should I just get them both exchanged for a bigger 10lb tank? Think that'd fit ok in the kegerator on the lip?
Brewer dad
Well-Known Member
"A third option is to capture the CO2 coming off of your fermentation to purge the keg. This requires an truly airtight fermenter (don't even try with a plastic bucket.) I would save this method until you have some kegging experience under your belt."
Brew on
Key word being skimmed
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I've been kegging for a number of years. I second the floating dip tubes. I do some dry hopping in the serving keg and these really work for that.
Where I live I have two options for refilling co2 tanks. Drop the tank off one week and pick it back up the next week or trade it out. I don't use the trade out option because 1) it's more expense than a refill and 2) the business locally might not be able trade out a aluminum tank for an aluminum tank and I don't want a steel tank. Because of this I have two 5lb tanks and always have one full. I just bought this tank for Vevor: https://www.vevor.com/co2-tank-c_12...0H1VcW7ps6Fil2EoBucCFOOqzEU_hn3MaAivjEALw_wcB
The one other thing I have learned is to invest in a good regulator. I have tried the cheaper ones and had issues with about all of them. I have had the best experience with taprite regulators.
Where I live I have two options for refilling co2 tanks. Drop the tank off one week and pick it back up the next week or trade it out. I don't use the trade out option because 1) it's more expense than a refill and 2) the business locally might not be able trade out a aluminum tank for an aluminum tank and I don't want a steel tank. Because of this I have two 5lb tanks and always have one full. I just bought this tank for Vevor: https://www.vevor.com/co2-tank-c_12...0H1VcW7ps6Fil2EoBucCFOOqzEU_hn3MaAivjEALw_wcB
The one other thing I have learned is to invest in a good regulator. I have tried the cheaper ones and had issues with about all of them. I have had the best experience with taprite regulators.
Instead of messing around with a dorm fridge and converting it I’d just go right for a kegerator. They are designed for what you want. Dorm fridges often have interior humps that are in the way of your kegs or they have shelves on the door taking up valuable inside space so your kegs don’t fit.
Lot of guys have freezer chests. There are plans out there for building a wood collar and putting taps in that so you don’t have to permenently ruin your freezer chest. If you get a decent size freezer chest you might have room for 5 kegs, which is a plus. The downside of a freezer chest is having to lift kegs up high to get them in. That becomes more of a factor the older you get.
If you want to mess with a freezer chest I think its a better option than converting a dorm fridge. But unless you have big parties or are supplying the local VFW where you need a bunch of kegs on tap I think a real kegerator is your best option.
Lot of guys have freezer chests. There are plans out there for building a wood collar and putting taps in that so you don’t have to permenently ruin your freezer chest. If you get a decent size freezer chest you might have room for 5 kegs, which is a plus. The downside of a freezer chest is having to lift kegs up high to get them in. That becomes more of a factor the older you get.
If you want to mess with a freezer chest I think its a better option than converting a dorm fridge. But unless you have big parties or are supplying the local VFW where you need a bunch of kegs on tap I think a real kegerator is your best option.
My biggest challenge has been getting consistently full 5 gallon fills. I use a scale, aim for 6 gallons of wort, and use a couple of 750 ml bottles with sugar for any excess.
A Bouncer inline filter comes in handy at transfer time to keep stuff off the bottom of the keg. I use 5 kegs to keep a steady rotation of carbonating, for 1-2 longer aging recipes and having an empty always ready.
I have two standard 18 CF refrigerators, one drilled for a tap and tray, the other with just a simple picnic tap. The picnic line is easier to clean and very inexpensive. Each has plenty of room for 2-3 kegs, a tank, extra beer and freezer items.
With the kegs, factor in cleaning and refill prep process time, using the same 5 gallons of Star San in the sanitizing of equipment and upcoming kegs. Easy to work in around transfer and brew days.
There's a zillion ways to do this, they're all way easier than bottling.
A Bouncer inline filter comes in handy at transfer time to keep stuff off the bottom of the keg. I use 5 kegs to keep a steady rotation of carbonating, for 1-2 longer aging recipes and having an empty always ready.
I have two standard 18 CF refrigerators, one drilled for a tap and tray, the other with just a simple picnic tap. The picnic line is easier to clean and very inexpensive. Each has plenty of room for 2-3 kegs, a tank, extra beer and freezer items.
With the kegs, factor in cleaning and refill prep process time, using the same 5 gallons of Star San in the sanitizing of equipment and upcoming kegs. Easy to work in around transfer and brew days.
There's a zillion ways to do this, they're all way easier than bottling.
I cut back to 3 gallon batches a few years ago. I have 5 gallon kegs if I want to do that. I have several 3 gallon kegs. When I bottle 3 gallons its 30 or 31 bottles and not nearly the pita it used to be. I can knock it out in an hour and a half from bottles soaked overnight in pbw.
The other potential downside is finding space for one, especially if you're going big enough for 5 kegs. OP just wanted a basic two tap kegerator that can hold a pair of five gallon corny kegs, and there's nothing wrong with that. Not everyone brews every week.
OP
OP
Read all the last several responses and yep, I'm certainly glad I got the kegerator instead of a fridge or freezer. I'm pretty much only brewing for myself, so two kegs is plenty of beer
I pulled a few pints (Imperial, not US, because I'm actually English and my pint glasses are English too) from my oktoberfest tonight. Oh the joy of just pouring it from the tap was so nice. The beer wasn't half bad either. Bit on the strong side (i didn't take an OG or FG on it, forgot haha, but it tastes stronger than it should be, still lovely though).. I definitely prefer this than bottles though. Was so good to just pull a pint and enjoy it without any bottle mess to clean up (i got pretty religious about taking all the empties straight away and rinsing them out so they were easier to clean).
So if there's anyone new that reads all of this thread, I definitely recommend you pass on the bottles, pass go and start kegging right off.
Anyone wondering if the beer taps that fit directly onto the kegs will fit in a kegerator while attached to a 5g corny keg, the answer is no. Get something else like a picnic line and tap if you can't get anything else. I wish I had of. That way I wouldn't of stirred up any sediment while moving the keg out of the fridge to pour a beer from it. Lesson learned
Am I doing that right or wrong?
I pulled a few pints (Imperial, not US, because I'm actually English and my pint glasses are English too) from my oktoberfest tonight. Oh the joy of just pouring it from the tap was so nice. The beer wasn't half bad either. Bit on the strong side (i didn't take an OG or FG on it, forgot haha, but it tastes stronger than it should be, still lovely though).. I definitely prefer this than bottles though. Was so good to just pull a pint and enjoy it without any bottle mess to clean up (i got pretty religious about taking all the empties straight away and rinsing them out so they were easier to clean).
So if there's anyone new that reads all of this thread, I definitely recommend you pass on the bottles, pass go and start kegging right off.
Anyone wondering if the beer taps that fit directly onto the kegs will fit in a kegerator while attached to a 5g corny keg, the answer is no. Get something else like a picnic line and tap if you can't get anything else. I wish I had of. That way I wouldn't of stirred up any sediment while moving the keg out of the fridge to pour a beer from it. Lesson learned
So now I'm curious. How full should my 5g keg be? I got mine filled to just below the gas in tube inside the keg. As I thought it needed to stay below that.
Am I doing that right or wrong?
Below the gas line is perfectly fine.
A small suggestion from a guy with a 2 tap kegerator who is the only one drinking it, look to get some smaller kegs or perhaps be smaller batches. Or learn how to bottle off the keg.
I don't know how much you drink, but for me a 5 gallon keg can last a while. It's a pain in the ass when you just brewed that beautiful blonde but still have a half a keg of the stout in there. You love it but want to change out!! I got in the habit of bottling a few gallons of my kegs off the tap until I invested in some smaller ones.
Just some brain droppings from personal experience.
A small suggestion from a guy with a 2 tap kegerator who is the only one drinking it, look to get some smaller kegs or perhaps be smaller batches. Or learn how to bottle off the keg.
I don't know how much you drink, but for me a 5 gallon keg can last a while. It's a pain in the ass when you just brewed that beautiful blonde but still have a half a keg of the stout in there. You love it but want to change out!! I got in the habit of bottling a few gallons of my kegs off the tap until I invested in some smaller ones.
Just some brain droppings from personal experience.
OP
OP
I will definitely keep it in mind. I'm not sure how long one keg's going to last me. Once I know how long one keg lasts me, then I'll start a brewing cycle based around that, but I'd hazard a guess it'll take about 3 weeks to empty.
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Congratulations on that! Half first-time keggers usually begin their membership on this site because of foamy or sometimes flat pours....you've done well in your studies so far.
Sorry I missed a day and a half in which much seems to have happened. (I have some issues that make cognition problematic after performing laborious tasks, so what follows may be poorly worded or just plain awkward and my last 2 days have been...problematic
).First:
..and you mentioning buying another tap.. The Perlick is a great tap that you can confidently leave in your will to your grandkids. It will come clean and at worse you may wish to replace some o-rings:
https://www.kegconnection.com/perlick-600-parts/
Next up:
^that was Feb 27 and then;
Friday March 7....usually, a used kegerator comes with a regulator, did this one? BTW: Those ready-made Danby Kegerators are IMO, a very sound choice. Thumbs up! ..but to continue:
...I'm wondering why you bought yet another regulator? Also, to be blunt (and this is just my opinion) That regulator is sh*t....can you cancel or return it without losing out? It makes sense to have dual-body regulator for a 2 tap kegerator, so I can understand that, but a regulator In My not-so-humble opinion; is one of those "Buy Once, Cry Once" items that you spend the extra dollars on. My personal recomendation as First-Choice would be a Taprite regulator as they are high quality with a proven track record and a long history of continuing to supply replacement parts...(you could will it to your grandkids and they'd be able to will it to theirs!) https://www.morebeer.com/products/co2-regulator-taprite-gauge.html) If you want to save money, a lot of folk on here having been reporting only good stuff about the Kegco regulators https://kegco.com/products/elite-series-dual-body-co2-draft-beer-regulator What and how many regulators do you currently have?I found this regulator that would probably work fine I reckon: https://www.amazon.com/SPARC-Regulator-Kegerator-Kombucha-Warranty/dp/B0CHT1RXNV. (Yes this has two connectors to kegs. Because I plan on having a two keg set up so i can have a lager and an ale depending on what i feel like that weekend
Which lines did you choose in the end? ...You had mentioned wanting to keep your lines short and I did a bit of looking and as expected, @KegLand does now have the duotight accessories to go with the 3mm ID lines:
for the shank: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/pushcoupling635.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing3mm3.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/keg_ball_qd_duo_liquid_tiny.htm
In any event; Now that you have a working kegerator, how about posting some pictures? We'd love to see it.
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I'd for whatever reason asssumed you had secondaries or at least a manifold...why bother with the adapter and not just use the 1/4" EVA straight to there?Yes.
I bought these: 8mm (OD) to 9.5mm (OD) Reducer, and 6.5mm (ID) 9.5mm (OD) EVA tubing. I plan to force a short length of the 6.5mm ID tubing over the barbs on my regulator, and use the reducer to step down to 4mm ID tubing for most of the length of my gas lines. Some folks have managed to get the smaller diameter tubing over a barb, but I think the larger ID will be much easier to deal with.
Brew on
I have a two body Taprite regulator with barb fittings. I don't really want to try to change the barb fittings for MFL fittings (there are reports on HBT of folks trying to do that, and having issues), and risk having leaks (I have been fortunate so far in having no CO2 leakage issues for about 10 yrs.) And, using the larger tubing and reducer seemed like the easiest way to keep using the barb fittings, since forcing the 4mm ID tubing over the barb is a PITA.
Brew on
OP
OP
Yeah it poured really nicely. Not overly fizzy, which is my preference and no huge head on it. It looked like it should when pulled from a tap. I was happy. It's a bit cloudy because I have to pull the keg out of the fridge to put the keg tap on it currently, so I keep stirring up the sediment on the bottom
But that'll change with the next batches as the proper lines will be in place by then.I'm trying to clean it up, but my hope is dwindling. And I'm thinking I may not bother, as if i miss something and it gets some yucky bacteria build up and makes me sick, I'd rather not risk it.
It did, but it was cheaper than my first one i bought and again was in pretty bad shape, so it went in the bin. The one I'm currently using isn't great, but it's held up and not lost pressure or caused trouble. But it's only got a single regulator on it.
I haven't bought the double regulator yet, so I'll take a look at the Taprite ones instead. I'd rather spend a little more if it means it'll work better and stay solid.
1 currently. Was pretty cheap and was mainly my initial experiment to see if I could keg instead of bottle.
I got the 4mm EVA Barrier lines for gas and beer with the duotight connectors. They looked nice and easy to manage and I didn't need to keep arsing about with the screw clamps on hoses (which again is a pain when you need to clean things).
Once I have the nukatap in the tower I'll post some.In any event; Now that you have a working kegerator, how about posting some pictures? We'd love to see it.
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