STC Wiring Diagram

[libirm]

I known there is allot of post on the STC diagram but not want I want to do.

I want a cooler outlet and always on outlet.
I want to include a light to show its working along with a 10 fuse.

Any help much appreciated- going to out it together tomorrow.
Thanks

 

[BigFloyd]

Most folks use the "always on" outlet on the wall of their house

What is it you're wanting a light to indicate?

 

[libirm]

I have seen similar configs on the site- always on used for the fan, seem convenient to have there as well. The light or I should say lights- are used to indicate what is on- either green for cold or red for hot. I will not be using it for hot so just need a green indicator light.
Fuse installed as well.

Just doing a hybrid of some of the units I have seen here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keezer-controller-switched-constant-power-418527/

But this thread does not have a diagram of wireing buy pretty musch what I want to do.

 

[Dawai]

On a normal duplex outlet, cut the tab between the "GOLD colored screw terminals" on the outlet (this isolates one side of the hot from the other on the duplex receptacle), feed your neutral to the white screw, ground to the green case tab. The neutral should be connected all the time, not broken. The ground should be maintained and not broken.

Feed your incoming hot 120 wire (make sure it is off/unplugged) to one of the gold screws (on top) jump off that to your STC power feed and your relay contacts common on the stc..

Connect the STC cooling contact to your other side of your (bottom) receptacle gold screw. (the stc now can make and break power to the other side of the duplex receptacle)

Connect the neutral (white wire) to your STC power feed to power the stc. On your plug, do the same, color to color on the woodhead or other brand plug. Use a adequate cord, ie: #14 for 15 amps, or #12 for 20 amps, #10 for 30 amps.

I'm on linux, not figured out how to use the scanner yet. OR I'd color crayon you a schematic.

 

[libirm]

Thanks Dawai!!!!

 

[hikemor]

BTW the STC unit has indicator lights on the faceplate when either the cooling or heating circuit is energized.

 

[libirm]

 

[libirm]

 

[libirm]

Well just finished- hope it looks right; followed a diagram posted that was close to what I wanted to do.
Please let me know if it looks ok.
Thanks

 

[libirm]

Well-- It WORKS!!!!

Thanks for all the help-

Well now onto purchasing kegs and making a collar for the taps

 

[libirm]

Regarding the Probe- what are the pros & cons of stinking in a glass of water?

I read one brewer put in a bottle of vodka, just in case it tempature went below freezing .

 

[E_Marquez]

Regarding the Probe- what are the pros & cons of stinking in a glass of water?

I read one brewer put in a bottle of vodka, just in case it tempature went below freezing .

Im working on this as well...

Ideally, I'd attache it to the primary... but there will be two containers at a time in the chamber..... My thought is. the primary bucket with it's very active yeast will be a few deg higher then the secondary carboy.

So my thinking is...temp probe on the primary, insulated a bot on the outside .... and let it set the temps for the chamber for that and the secondary carboy.


The other choice is ambient temp either air or glass of water and fudge the temp setting for what I will have to assume the wort/beer temp is in the bucket.

 

[BigFloyd]

If doing more than one, it depends on what yeast each one uses. If it is the same yeast, I'd stick it on the bucket that's actively fermenting.

 

[Dawai]

I converted my keezer without a collar, just drilled the front of the lid, inserted a straight 3" shank w/3/16ths hose nipple.. I made a stainless cover, but is for "looks".. ended up using a piece of 1" pvc pipe for a spacer to get the nut out from under the folded over edge of the lid. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keezer-no-collar-build-ga-hillbilly-417689/

If a man wanted to reinforce it all, he could use a "minerlac" pipe clamp around the piece of pvc pipe, or a 2 hole strap, or?? fasten it all together 90 degrees out of whack to support it. On the back of the lid I drilled the entry-exit holes for the probe and the CO2.

I find myself lifting the lid with the faucets thou.. I expected the wife to, but she has not had a reason to get into it yet.

I think I'll great stuff foam fill around the shanks.. I can dig it out if I need to remove them. Problem? it will not expand if cold.. ie.. the freezer is on.