Stc-1000+

[alphaomega]

@Halfsack32: EE (plus a nice deafening beep) indicates sensor error if I'm not mistaken. That does not really say that the sensor is broken, but that the controller does not 'see' it correctly.
Make sure you screw in the leads in the right terminal and that the connection is good. Also make sure you have the right sensors. Try another STC if you can, it might be the controller that is wonky (that is, not the sensors).

SSR to power the thing? Don't know what you mean by that...

Cheers!

 

[nosco]

Hi alphaomega. I am definitely not arduino savy but i read all of the info and watch all of the vids and finally had a go at flashing my stc that ive been using for 2 years. It took a few times to get a connection but finally got it. It was really pretty easy. Thanks for the hack and thanks Will for the vids.

 

[nosco]

PS it may be harder to get the settings right than it was to flash the unit lol

 

[mattrox]

PS it may be harder to get the settings right than it was to flash the unit lol

Have you tried putting in the settings on the web based editor, then flashing with them all preset?

 

[nosco]

Yeah i did use the editor. I did a few ale and lager programs. I just have to read the manual a bit to figure out how ramp and set point and some other settings affect the programs and the unit.

 

[kaljade]

Hello everyone, long time listener first time caller!

All jokes aside I have just finished reading the entire thread (well timed annual leave really helped), and just want to start by thanking everybody involved in getting this fantastic project to the mature state it is now. Obviously it goes without saying that Mats is the rock god of STC-1000's, but also the early adopters and beta testers that gave all of their time freely to this project, hats off to you all - you know who you are.

I have currently 3 STC-1000P's running:

1. Single probe controlling my humidor
2. Dual probe on my fermentation fridge
3. OVBSC on my "pimped up" Grainfather

My soldering skills are average at best, so I took the novice approach and only soldered a pin header to the controllers then soldered the resistors, connectors, etc into the dupont cables (crude but effective).

I created a lookup table for the Grainfather thermistor and compiled the firmware image by following Mats instructions in Github and I'm no software engineer by any stretch of the imagination, so literally anyone can do it.

I've run a few brews on the Grainfather and have some feedback if you are interested, if so is it appropriate to post them to this thread now that you have merged OVBSC into v1.09, or would you prefer it over in the original thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=487104&page=14

Thanks again to all involved!

Cheers,

Kal

 

[alphaomega]

Hello everyone, long time listener first time caller!

All jokes aside I have just finished reading the entire thread (well timed annual leave really helped), and just want to start by thanking everybody involved in getting this fantastic project to the mature state it is now.

You masochist! Really, there wasn't anything watchable on TV at all?

Obviously it goes without saying that Mats is the rock god of STC-1000's, but also the early adopters and beta testers that gave all of their time freely to this project, hats off to you all - you know who you are.

I have currently 3 STC-1000P's running:

1. Single probe controlling my humidor
2. Dual probe on my fermentation fridge
3. OVBSC on my "pimped up" Grainfather

My soldering skills are average at best, so I took the novice approach and only soldered a pin header to the controllers then soldered the resistors, connectors, etc into the dupont cables (crude but effective).

Cool, glad you like it
And that isn't crude, just plain effective!

I created a lookup table for the Grainfather thermistor and compiled the firmware image by following Mats instructions in Github and I'm no software engineer by any stretch of the imagination, so literally anyone can do it.

I've run a few brews on the Grainfather and have some feedback if you are interested, if so is it appropriate to post them to this thread now that you have merged OVBSC into v1.09, or would you prefer it over in the original thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=487104&page=14

Thanks again to all involved!

Cheers,

Kal

Sweet! That might be of interest to others!
I'd love feedback! Here, there, anywhere is good for me, just fork it over

Cheers!

 

[kaljade]

You masochist! Really, there wasn't anything watchable on TV at all?

Actually it was more to ensure I didn't request anything that had already been requested and I have to commend your patience throughout this project as I can see it did happen to you on several occasions

Cool, glad you like it
And that isn't crude, just plain effective!

So here is the STC-1000p ready to go back into the Grainfather:

(on the dual probe unit I just used a stereo 3.5mm socket instead of a mono like this one)

This is the cable with the resistor, etc for the pump controller:

Then I connected an outlet to the cooling relay (1) and hooked up the in built heater element to that, which I have set to the mash setting (Normal = 2000w, Mash = 500w), and then knocked a hole in the side of it and fitted a 2200w immersion element (2) which I connected to the heating relay:

Sweet! That might be of interest to others!

I created a lookup table for the Grainfather thermistor using a 4000 step multimeter and with the STC-1000's thermistor connected to the controller and a brand new Thermopen to keep it honest:

I'd love feedback! Here, there, anywhere is good for me, just fork it over

So as for feedback, firstly it's AWESOME!!! I could happily use it as is without any further development required.

Some observations though:

Mash out temp is hard to maintain at the same output level as other mash steps, this is easily overcome on the Grainfather by switching from Mash back to Normal but for other setups might not be as easy. A possible solution would be a new output setting the utilises existing outputs for the final mash set eg. P6o has a value of 0 = SO, 1 = PO, 2 = HO, 3 = BO with a default value of 1 so that if someone does not change it then it will be the same as other mash steps.

A flame out alarm would be really cool for flame out hop additions, allowing negative values for the alarms might be an elegant solution here eg. -10 would be an alarm 10 mins after the boil has finished?

The other observation is more of a "nice to have" rather than valid feedback and that is that the profile editor page would be awesome if you could add the lut output if you are using a non-standard thermistor.

So the low hanging fruit would be a couple of free text areas where you could paste in your lut output and it would replace the corresponding lines in the page0.c file:

const int ad_lookup[] = { 0, -552, -312, -158, -40, 58, 143, 220, 291, 358, 421, 483, 543, 602, 660, 719, 778, 839, 901, 965, 1033, 1104, 1180, 1263, 1353, 1455, 1571, 1709, 1880, 2105, 2439, 3073 };

const int ad_lookup[] = { 0, -484, -351, -266, -200, -146, -98, -55, -16, 21, 56, 90, 124, 156, 189, 222, 255, 288, 323, 359, 396, 436, 478, 524, 574, 630, 695, 772, 867, 992, 1177, 1529 };

This does still require the user to be able to make the lut so the ultimate solution would be a table with two columns and 32 rows to enter the temperatures and resistance values into?

Anyway, sorry for the picture heavy post but I feel t makes it a lot easier to describe.

Cheers!

 

[alphaomega]

Actually it was more to ensure I didn't request anything that had already been requested and I have to commend your patience throughout this project as I can see it did happen to you on several occasions

Commendable! Well, I don't really have that much patience. I wish ppl could use this feature a bit more:

All the images that you included are malformed, maybe you can edit the post to fix it?
I could still see them in your gallery, and it is looking sweet
Seems you're set up to brew more than beer Though, let's not talk more about that...

So as for feedback, firstly it's AWESOME!!! I could happily use it as is without any further development required.

Some observations though:

Mash out temp is hard to maintain at the same output level as other mash steps, this is easily overcome on the Grainfather by switching from Mash back to Normal but for other setups might not be as easy. A possible solution would be a new output setting the utilises existing outputs for the final mash set eg. P6o has a value of 0 = SO, 1 = PO, 2 = HO, 3 = BO with a default value of 1 so that if someone does not change it then it will be the same as other mash steps.

Well, personally I feel like it is complex enough to use as it is. Ideally, I'd like to have completely independent settings, but that is just not feasible. It would be too much work to set up for the user.
Secondly, I find it hard to believe that 500W is not enough to maintain mashout temp. Maybe adding some insulation might help? That is not a bad idea anyway.
Anyway, I'm reluctant to make the kind of change you suggest to the main branch. It seems like a special case.

A flame out alarm would be really cool for flame out hop additions, allowing negative values for the alarms might be an elegant solution here eg. -10 would be an alarm 10 mins after the boil has finished?

I hear ya. Unfortunately, as of now program ends when boil is done. What happens after that is not the concern of the controller (i.e. it can't control cooling).
I'm not saying no to this, as a hop stand probably could be incorporated, and the idea of using negative hop alarms is pretty elegant.
I need to think this over a bit

The other observation is more of a "nice to have" rather than valid feedback and that is that the profile editor page would be awesome if you could add the lut output if you are using a non-standard thermistor.

So the low hanging fruit would be a couple of free text areas where you could paste in your lut output and it would replace the corresponding lines in the page0.c file:

const int ad_lookup[] = { 0, -552, -312, -158, -40, 58, 143, 220, 291, 358, 421, 483, 543, 602, 660, 719, 778, 839, 901, 965, 1033, 1104, 1180, 1263, 1353, 1455, 1571, 1709, 1880, 2105, 2439, 3073 };

const int ad_lookup[] = { 0, -484, -351, -266, -200, -146, -98, -55, -16, 21, 56, 90, 124, 156, 189, 222, 255, 288, 323, 359, 396, 436, 478, 524, 574, 630, 695, 772, 867, 992, 1177, 1529 };

This does still require the user to be able to make the lut so the ultimate solution would be a table with two columns and 32 rows to enter the temperatures and resistance values into?

This will be very hard to do, as the LUT is compiled into the program HEX file.
Also, generating LUT data from javascript will be hard.
Not impossible, just way more work than I ever think will make it justifiable.

Finally, if you ever feel like your life is missing something that can only be filled with the development of another STC-1000p project, I have a suggestion that I thought of while making my wife's drinks (she doesn't drink beer sadly), here's a clue:

Anyway, sorry for the picture heavy post but I feel t makes it a lot easier to describe.

Cheers!

Well, that looks nice. Unfortunately, HBT forum rules prevents discussion of this.

Cheers!
//mats

 

[BrianM]

*sigh* Looks like I'm running into an issue no one else has mentioned.

Background is that I bought a cheap ebay board, and have successfully uploaded the "Blink" sketch to verify function.

When I try to upload the picprog though, I get errors on compile:

Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Leonardo"

picprog:13: error: stray '\' in program
picprog:13: error: stray '\' in program
picprog:100: error: missing terminating ' character
picprog:125: error: missing terminating " character
picprog:295: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:295: error: missing terminating " character
picprog:321: error: invalid suffix "ffa618e86f6ea20dba4ea6336d2" on integer constant
picprog:700: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:704: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:708: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:712: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:725: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:729: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:733: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:737: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:741: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:745: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:758: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:762: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:766: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:770: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:774: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:778: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:782: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:786: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:790: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:794: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:798: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:811: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:815: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:819: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:823: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:827: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:831: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:835: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:839: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:843: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:847: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:851: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:855: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:859: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:897: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:905: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:977: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:977: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:986: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1027: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1043: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1059: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1087: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1121: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1121: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1133: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1133: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1145: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1145: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1157: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1157: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1169: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1169: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1173: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1173: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1177: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1177: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1193: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1193: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1205: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1205: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1229: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1229: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1253: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1253: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1289: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1289: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1329: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1329: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1341: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1482: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1482: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1490: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1490: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1498: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1498: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1506: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1506: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1530: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1530: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1566: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1566: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1639: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1639: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1639: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1639: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1639: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1639: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:1791: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1840: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1885: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1893: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1901: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1941: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:1966: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:2015: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:2023: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:2031: error: invalid suffix "x" on integer constant
picprog:2155: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:2155: error: stray '#' in program
picprog:7480: error: missing terminating ' character
picprog:7497: error: missing terminating " character
picprog:4: error: expected unqualified-id before '<' token
picprog:295: error: 'protocol_type' does not name a type
picprog:295: error: 'padding' does not name a type
picprog:295: error: 'display' does not name a type
picprog:295: error: expected unqualified-id before string constant
picprog:872: error: expected unqualified-id before '<' token
picprog:876: error: expected unqualified-id before '<' token
picprog:880: error: expected unqualified-id before '<' token
picprog:884: error: expected unqualified-id before '<' token
stray '\' in program

  This report would have more information with
  "Show verbose output during compilation"
  enabled in File > Preferences.

I've tested with the other versions as well with the same results/errors, and well.. now I'm up against a wall of ignorance. I simply don't know enough of programming/arduino to go further or even search out the right questions.

Help? Frustrating to be the first with this kind of issue that I can find.

Thanks

 

[kaljade]

Commendable! Well, I don't really have that much patience. I wish ppl could use this feature a bit more:

I agree, and after reading over 2,000 posts I got very accustomed to that feature when I needed to refer back to something stated previously.

All the images that you included are malformed, maybe you can edit the post to fix it?

Fixed

Well, personally I feel like it is complex enough to use as it is. Ideally, I'd like to have completely independent settings, but that is just not feasible. It would be too much work to set up for the user.

Personally I think the only difficult part is getting people to read the supplied instructions, after that it's not complicated at all

Secondly, I find it hard to believe that 500W is not enough to maintain mashout temp. Maybe adding some insulation might help? That is not a bad idea anyway.

The Grainfather is sold as an affordable all-in-one that retails for about half the price of its competitors so you get what you pay for in that regard (which is no doubt why their recipes state switching from Mash to Normal during mash out), no biggy I'll just keep doing that.

Anyway, I'm reluctant to make the kind of change you suggest to the main branch. It seems like a special case.

All good, makes sense if it's only for a specific set up.

I hear ya. Unfortunately, as of now program ends when boil is done. What happens after that is not the concern of the controller (i.e. it can't control cooling).
I'm not saying no to this, as a hop stand probably could be incorporated, and the idea of using negative hop alarms is pretty elegant.
I need to think this over a bit

Happy to continue using the timer on my phone if too difficult to implement

This will be very hard to do, as the LUT is compiled into the program HEX file.
Also, generating LUT data from javascript will be hard.
Not impossible, just way more work than I ever think will make it justifiable.

Fair enough, if you want to use your own LUT then you need to skill up!

Well, that looks nice. Unfortunately, HBT forum rules prevents discussion of this.

Thanks for the heads up - removed.

 

[alphaomega]

*sigh* Looks like I'm running into an issue no one else has mentioned.

...

I've tested with the other versions as well with the same results/errors, and well.. now I'm up against a wall of ignorance. I simply don't know enough of programming/arduino to go further or even search out the right questions.

Help? Frustrating to be the first with this kind of issue that I can find.

Thanks

The errors you get from the compiler does not make a lot of sense to me.
It almost seems like the sketch is corrupt. You say you tested with the other versions, but I'd start with trying to download a fresh sketch.
Next, I'd try to reinstall the Arduino IDE. Maybe even try another computer.
Finally, I know the Leonardo does have its peculiarities. For one thing I think the bootloader is a bit bigger, due to the USB stuff. This may make the sketch to large to fit. I find it odd that it should give compilation errors that make it seem like syntax is bad for that. But you can try selecting an UNO board (you need not have one) and verify (compile) the sketch. If it works then, you can try to remove the not needed HEX data (fahrenheit or celsius depending on what you want to keep).

Good luck!

Personally I think the only difficult part is getting people to read the supplied instructions, after that it's not complicated at all

That, my friend, is the greatest thing I ever heard Mind if I use it?
Effing awesome

The Grainfather is sold as an affordable all-in-one that retails for about half the price of its competitors so you get what you pay for in that regard (which is no doubt why their recipes state switching from Mash to Normal during mash out), no biggy I'll just keep doing that.

I don't own a grainfather myself and I can't really justify getting one as I already have way too much 'invested' in brewing and am really pretty happy with my setup.
If I hadn't, the grainfather would definately be my system of choice. IMHO they have got a lot of things right (including the price).

Enough about that. I really think you should slap on some insulation. A little goes a long way. I'd make my own, just cut out a piece that fits snugly around it and sow or glue in some velcro straps to be able to put in on/take it off easily. I'd be very surprised if that does not allow you to maintain mash out with 500W.

Happy to continue using the timer on my phone if too difficult to implement

I don't think it is a big thing either, but if/when I get the chance, I'll look into it. Can't make any promises though.

Fair enough, if you want to use your own LUT then you need to skill up!

Kinda, yes. It is not all that hard. With that said, I'm not against supplying additional versions of the firmwares that have other constants compiled in, if there is good reason. The stock NTC used by the grainfather would be a good reason I think.

Cheers!

 

[BrianM]

It almost seems like the sketch is corrupt. You say you tested with the other versions, but I'd start with trying to download a fresh sketch.
Next, I'd try to reinstall the Arduino IDE. Maybe even try another computer.

I'd thought of most of these and had, thus, tried several versions of IDE (all fresh installs after reboots), several downloads of the sketches, and 2 computers.

But I think you hit on the problem...

Finally, I know the Leonardo does have its peculiarities. For one thing I think the bootloader is a bit bigger, due to the USB stuff. This may make the sketch to large to fit. I find it odd that it should give compilation errors that make it seem like syntax is bad for that. But you can try selecting an UNO board (you need not have one) and verify (compile) the sketch. If it works then, you can try to remove the not needed HEX data (fahrenheit or celsius depending on what you want to keep).

Sketch uses 20,252 bytes (70%) of program storage space. Maximum is 28,672 bytes.

This is after I hacked and slashed (lol, and probably broke) the code. Compile had issues with referring to the Celsius data I'd removed, hope I didn't remove too much... And just for giggles, this was the same result with unmodified/raw code:

Sketch uses 30,562 bytes (106%) of program storage space. Maximum is 28,672 bytes.

Annoying, but easy enough to resolve. You might want to put a warning on github though, that Some versions don't have the storage space needed (probably anything with the ATmega32U4?) Would have stopped me from buying this board, which is quite a bit smaller than I'd imagined (wanting to mount this in my box with the STC so I can just quick-connect a usb cable for changes).

Anyway, thanks for pointing out something I hadn't thought of... sure would have been nice to get a "too big" warning instead of a syntax error.



Brian

 

[alphaomega]

...
Annoying, but easy enough to resolve. You might want to put a warning on github though, that Some versions don't have the storage space needed (probably anything with the ATmega32U4?) Would have stopped me from buying this board, which is quite a bit smaller than I'd imagined (wanting to mount this in my box with the STC so I can just quick-connect a usb cable for changes).

Anyway, thanks for pointing out something I hadn't thought of... sure would have been nice to get a "too big" warning instead of a syntax error.



Brian

Cool! Sounds like you're on the right track then!
Yes, you're right. I probably should mention it on the github page. Good thinking. I'll get to it.
You're not the first to have had this issue, but the ppl before you had old Arduinos, with an older bootloader (that was bigger).
I might just look into adding some convenience #defines so it would be easier to leave out one of the HEX files as well.

Cheers!

 

[kaljade]

That, my friend, is the greatest thing I ever heard Mind if I use it?
Effing awesome

Use away mate, I used to work in tech support and went to a lot of trouble setting up FAQs for common issues, what found was the hgher the quality of your FAQs the lower the percentage of intelligent callers you would get...

Enough about that. I really think you should slap on some insulation. A little goes a long way. I'd make my own, just cut out a piece that fits snugly around it and sow or glue in some velcro straps to be able to put in on/take it off easily. I'd be very surprised if that does not allow you to maintain mash out with 500W.

SOLD! A simple Google search of "Grainfather insulation" even gave me the basic template to make one:

So I've ordered the materials online and will post the pics when it's done.

I don't think it is a big thing either, but if/when I get the chance, I'll look into it. Can't make any promises though.

All good mate I know you have a young family and work commitments and you do this in your copious free time that's left after that

Kinda, yes. It is not all that hard. With that said, I'm not against supplying additional versions of the firmwares that have other constants compiled in, if there is good reason. The stock NTC used by the grainfather would be a good reason I think.

I made two 32 step lookup tables for the Grainfather NTC which I'm happy to share:

This one is as close to full range as could do in a home environment (3 degree steps from freezing to as close to boiling as can get in 32 steps)

0.0 28160
3.0 24560
6.0 21770
9.0 19210
12.0    17020
15.0    15000
18.0    13330
21.0    11890
24.0    10590
27.0    9440.0
30.0    8470.0
33.0    7600.0
36.0    6780.0
39.0    6090.0
42.0    5490.0
45.0    4960.0
48.0    4480.0
51.0    4050.0
54.0    3680.0
57.0    3340.0
60.0    3040.0
63.0    2770.0
66.0    2530.0
69.0    2310.0
72.0    2120.0
75.0    1930.0
78.0    1770.0
81.0    1630.0
84.0    1535.0
87.0    1420.0
90.0    1310.0
93.0    1210.0

This one is 1.5 degree steps within the usable range for mashing as I figured it would be more accurate and the outside ranges are of no consequence anyway (this is the one I use and I have tested it with the Thermopen and it is pretty spot on within the workable range).

34.5    7140.0
36.0    6780.0
37.5    6420.0
39.0    6090.0
40.5    5780.0
42.0    5490.0
43.5    5220.0
45.0    4960.0
46.5    4710.0
48.0    4480.0
49.5    4265.0
51.0    4050.0
52.5    3860.0
54.0    3680.0
55.5    3520.0
57.0    3340.0
58.5    3190.0
60.0    3040.0
61.5    2900.0
63.0	2770.0
64.5    2650.0
66.0    2530.0
67.5    2420.0
69.0    2310.0
70.5    2205.0
72.0    2120.0
73.5    2020.0
75.0    1930.0
76.5    1840.0
78.0    1770.0
79.5    1750.0
81.0    1630.0

Of course you could always add "33.0 7600.0" to the start of this one and remove "81.0 1630.0" from the bottom if you wanted to, but this one works for me.

Cheers,

Kal

 

[mattrox]

I got mine in the mail today from the correct supplier.

I had a quick look. I found this.

View attachment 1446099726185.jpg

View attachment 1446099735648.jpg

 

[alphaomega]

@mattrox: Looks like you got lucky and got one of the few with very little solder in the through holes for the programming header.
It's still coated in silicone though, so clean (in and around) the holes with a toothpick.

 

[mattrox]

@mattrox: Looks like you got lucky and got one of the few with very little solder in the through holes for the programming header.
It's still coated in silicone though, so clean (in and around) the holes with a toothpick.

There is no solder at all in the holes. A change in manufacturing processes?

 

[alphaomega]

I don't think so. I've done approx 200 of them myself and of these a handfull or so have had very little or no solder in the holes.
Just a manufacturing fluke.

 

[mattrox]

I don't think so. I've done approx 200 of them myself and of these a handfull or so have had very little or no solder in the holes.
Just a manufacturing fluke.

Ok cool.

Thank you for all your work on this. I'm turning mine into dual probe. What you have done is genius.

 

[mattrox]

I have flashed it with the 2 probe version and started work on converting it for 2 probe.

Most of the components are still on their way. But I got impatient.

The bare holes meant it was easy to just use the dupont wires to flash..... Then I decided to solder them in place.

View attachment 1446196478906.jpg

 

[mattrox]

Hi and thanks!
There should be no problem leaving the Arduino connected.
I would suggest using a diode on the 5v-Vdd, to avoid the arduino being powered from the STC. But, it should be fine without it as well.
If you don't add the diode, then you should avoid plugging in the usb while mains powered.

Any old diode? Just don't want to add something that might release smoke later.

 

[alphaomega]

I haven't really tried this myself, but I think pretty much any diode would work. If you are looking to buy some, then a schottky diode would be preferrable, something like BAT85 or BAT54 would probably be good.

 

[mattrox]

I haven't really tried this myself, but I think pretty much any diode would work. If you are looking to buy some, then a schottky diode would be preferrable, something like BAT85 or BAT54 would probably be good.

I was thinking of building in a nano into the project box so there is just a USB connection to link to the computer for future flashings. It seemed a good solution, rather than wiring in some sort of plug to link up to the Uno.

Thanks for your advice.

 

[demig]

I was thinking of building in a nano into the project box so there is just a USB connection to link to the computer for future flashings. It seemed a good solution, rather than wiring in some sort of plug to link up to the Uno.

Thanks for your advice.

That's exactly what I did with mine and it's working very well. I just popped in a diode I had hanging around and it seems to work well.

Good luck with it.

Demig

 

[mattrox]

That's exactly what I did with mine and it's working very well. I just popped in a diode I had hanging around and it seems to work well.

Good luck with it.

Demig

Thanks for that info.

How did you mount the Nano in the project box?

 

[demig]

Thanks for that info.

How did you mount the Nano in the project box?

Nothing fancy just a good blob of hot melt glue on the bottom. Cut the hole for the usb socket, plugged in a usb wire on the outside of the box and then used that to hold it while the glue set. Works a treat.

If I get a chance I'll grab a picture.

Demig

 

[mattrox]

Nothing fancy just a good blob of hot melt glue on the bottom. Cut the hole for the usb socket, plugged in a usb wire on the outside of the box and then used that to hold it while the glue set. Works a treat.

If I get a chance I'll grab a picture.

Demig

Cheers. I'd be interested to see it.

 

[kaljade]

Brewday yesterday with STC-1000+ OVBCS and STC-1000+ Dual Probe

Loving the automated pump control! Both heating and cooling relays active (2200w & 500w respectively), output set to -200 until hot break kicks in at 200*F then output is -150 with heating period interval set to 8.0 (so 500w element stays on and 2200w element cycles on for 4 seconds then off for 4 seconds)

Nice rolling boil using only the heater relay (2200w element), output set to 100 (1000m above sea level so lower boiling temperature)

Dual probe using 3.5mm stereo fitting (taped one is probe 2)

Fermentation fridge (probe 2 in 100mm thermowell in lid that reads fermenter air temp, probe 1 in 9" thermowell to read liquid temp)

Today all is happily bubbling away and temps are sitting stable 21 hours into 120 hours of step 1

Cheers,

Kal

 

[BrianM]

Argh... Fair warning through my headaches, the ATmega32U4 chip is a PITA. Since the USB controller is on the chip you lose space, AND it doesn't play well with the sketch. By "doesn't play well" I mean that the USB connection will connect, then drop about 5~8 seconds later Most of the time. Sometimes it works fine (rarely).. I managed to get my STC loaded but was looking to mount the Arduino in my housing for quick/simple USB connectivity and it's not reliable enough for that.

To sort of "reset" everything, you have to "rest"by grounding the rest pin, then flash a blank/simple sketch (whatever pops up at first with IDE 1.6.5) by timing everything just right. I start the upload roughly 6~7 seconds before connecting the USB. Time it right and everything's back to normal. Load the STC sketch and it's luck of the draw on connectivity again.

Maybe a more knowledgeable Arduino person could figure it out (hey, anyone wanna trade?), but for anyone out there looking to do this for the first time, avoid the ATmega32U4 chip based boards (Pro Mini, Teensy, etc...) It's just not worth the headache.