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Stc-1000+

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Usually yes, but it can be more or less annoying. For example 100ms on, 1 sec off on one of the dot-LED's is really not that annoying, but it still shows 'life'.

I don't have the hardware/setup to test it, so I take your word for it. I do have 2 stc together in my living room so that could be 2 lights every second in a dark room at night. I'm sorry I'm not more helpful than to warn about something potentially annoying without a suggestion on a fix/alternate way to do it.

Yes, it would pretty much be a thermometer. But In terms of regulation it would be regulation = off. I don't think calling it 'thermometer mode' would be the best way to describe the action of the run mode when using it in a profile. Besides there is a 'th' mode which is thermostat mode. How would you show 'thermometer mode' using max 3 7-segment LEDs in a non-ambiguous way?

1 click on power button switches between probes, so I can't use that. And in 'soft off' (or 'standby') temperature reading are not available.

This are 2 very good points, I thought it made sense to use the power button as logically is like you turn off the control first, and then everything...

Maybe use hold vs 3/4 seconds hold? Could that be done easily in your current key handling code? That would resemble ATX soft-off vs hard-off
 
I don't have the hardware/setup to test it, so I take your word for it. I do have 2 stc together in my living room so that could be 2 lights every second in a dark room at night. I'm sorry I'm not more helpful than to warn about something potentially annoying without a suggestion on a fix/alternate way to do it.

The blinking LED is just a suggestion, I'm open to other ideas. However, something needs to go on the display. I have my TV in the living room (shocking revelation, I know), it has a red LED that indicates standby. Maybe just light the LED on standby?
Still, if you want it off, you should have a power switch.

des said:
This are 2 very good points, I thought it made sense to use the power button as logically is like you turn off the control first, and then everything...

Maybe use hold vs 3/4 seconds hold? Could that be done easily in your current key handling code? That would resemble ATX soft-off vs hard-off

I'm not really sure we are on the same page here.
Short press on pwr button switches between probes, I need a button for that and pwr is the only button that can be used. Long press puts it in standby.
Run mode off can't be put on a button, as there is no way to toggle it, you can only set the run mode, there is no history of previous run mode. Like I said, the off modes are conceptually different.
 
...I'm considering making the profiles shorter now instead. Having 8 setpoints and 7 durations + next run mode setting. That would even allow for 7 profiles currently (but wont add much extra space for new parameters), if more parameters are needed later on then a profile could be dropped then. As you said, 10 setpoints are more than enough in most cases anyway. With linking profiles, then you can overcome the limit of shorter profiles if needed anyway.

All opinions are welcome.

I use 9 setpoints, but would modify to 8 for the greater good. :) The ability to link profiles would be great, though I would prefer not to do that every time. The more complex things are, the more likely I am to screw it up. With 8 setpoints, I would not need to link, so that sounds fine.

I have no preference about run off, soft off, flashing LEDs, etc., except that simple and consistent is usually better... whatever that means. Thanks!
 
I use 9 setpoints, but would modify to 8 for the greater good. :) The ability to link profiles would be great, though I would prefer not to do that every time. The more complex things are, the more likely I am to screw it up. With 8 setpoints, I would not need to link, so that sounds fine.

I have no preference about run off, soft off, flashing LEDs, etc., except that simple and consistent is usually better... whatever that means. Thanks!

Cool! Thanks for the feedback!
And I agree, I will not have the need to link profiles myself either. And I would probably be good with 2 or 3 profiles (ale and lager and possibly one for specialty yeast). But in the words of Yngwie Malmsteen "More is more" :) Having the the possibility to set next run mode would be pretty neat though as you could do loops or turn off regulation as well.

Yeah, simple and consistent... I like that :) Simple is pretty much the only doable thing and consistency may be a complex to implement and can be subjective as well. But I'll do my best :) My personal keywords would be 'reliable' and 'functional' :)
 
Thinking through possible profiles I would use, I can think of:
-Cool Ale Profile (low 60s F)
-British Ale Profile (ramp 64 to 68 F and back down)
-Cool Lager Profile (mid to high 40s, D-rest, back down)
-Warm Lager Profile (low to mid 50s, D-rest, back down)
-Belgian Warm Profile (ramp high 60s to high 70s)
-Saison Hot profile (ramp mid 70s to about 90)
-Kolsch/Alt profile (high 50s to 60, ramp up, back down)

There may be another couple/few niche profiles I might use depending; e.g. custom single-use profile for specialty beer/yeast. That gets me up to the 7-9 range of profiles. Maintaining that number is preferential in my book.

As for linking profiles, I'm not sure how this would prove useful for me, with the exception of linking a crash cool profile but then I should have enough setpoints to accommodate that per profile. Besides, my lager crash cool would be different than my ale crash cool so I would need two profiles for that.

On the flip side, I would not want to be the reason why a variation didn't see the light of day. I don't know what kind of effort is involved in maintaining "flavors" of the software/firmware, but if it's not too complex then perhaps a "flavoring" of firmwares is in order. For example:
-STC1000+ Standard
-STC1000+ Linking
-STC1000+ Automobile
...and each has it's limitations and features, but works off of the same "base" code. If one becomes too long-in-the-tooth and hasn't proved overly useful then it's featureset is frozen for the foreseeable future.

Just ideas I had, anyway. Thanks for all you've done on this project.
 
All the parts need for adding a second temp probe on the slow boat from China. Does anybody have any advice on adding the second probe? I've read through this thread and also the readme, so I understand what needs to be done, but am wondering if anyone has any pictures of what they did.

Cheers!
 
I've been delighted with the stc1000+ firmware and used it for several brews now. While considering changes to the profile side of stc1000+ though, one suggestion I have is to be able to disable heating and interpolation for individual steps of a profile. This would allow you the option of letting the temperature free rise for a step with the cooling kicking in only if it rose beyond the next set point+hysteresis (which would be several degrees above the starting temperature).

E.g. a profile step that was: start 17°C, free rise to a maximum of 21°C

This might also avoid some problems that can occur with the cooling kicking in during an interpolated rise just because the exothermic fermentation has exceeded the hysteresis amount over the interpolated temeperature value. Depending on the location of the temperature probe this can cause over cooling in regions/layers of the fermenter and curtail yeast activity and prematurely cause dropping.

Cheers
James
 
I've been delighted with the stc1000+ firmware and used it for several brews now. While considering changes to the profile side of stc1000+ though, one suggestion I have is to be able to disable heating and interpolation for individual steps of a profile. This would allow you the option of letting the temperature free rise for a step with the cooling kicking in only if it rose beyond the next set point+hysteresis (which would be several degrees above the starting temperature).

E.g. a profile step that was: start 17°C, free rise to a maximum of 21°C

This might also avoid some problems that can occur with the cooling kicking in during an interpolated rise just because the exothermic fermentation has exceeded the hysteresis amount over the interpolated temeperature value. Depending on the location of the temperature probe this can cause over cooling in regions/layers of the fermenter and curtail yeast activity and prematurely cause dropping.

Cheers
James

Thanks for the suggestion!
I understand what you are saying, and while I could see the use for it, there are a couple of issues.
First off, this would add complexity to the profile handling that I'm pretty sure would not be doable with the resources at hand. Secondly, me thinks that the idea of having a profile is that it should be followed. Free rise would depend on ambient, what if it is cold and the temperature doesn't rise, but rather drop? I think the possibility of setting hysteresis for each step should be a better and less complex solution to this, but still, this even this would not be doable without seriously cutting other stuff out.

I would say, use a properly small heater (or no heater if possible) and make the 'free rise step' quickly instead of a long ramp to next step and the rise should be slow anyway.

Cheers!
 
Thanks for the suggestion!
I think the possibility of setting hysteresis for each step should be a better and less complex solution to this, but still, this even this would not be doable without seriously cutting other stuff out.

That's fair enough; you've already squeezed considerably more functionality into the device than I would have expected possible! I just thought I'd mention the idea while you are considering modifications to the profiles.

That would be an elegant solution: interpolating a hysteresis and set point per step would be exactly equivalent to interpolating a min and max acceptable temperature per step and so would offer that envelope of control but I quite understand it's likely too complex to squeeze in (though I'd happily give up a profile or two for it!).

Certainly in my case with 50L batches in a typical European tall fridge using a 60W tube heater, worrying too much about the beer/wort temperature is mistaken as there's quite a lot of variation throughout the fermenting beer. Obviously we're only considering and reacting to a reading wherever the probe is, while the convection/conduction of heat etc could vary fom batch to batch despite the probe experiencing a similar profile.

Therefore I've tended not to think of rigidly sticking to a profile but rather wanting to maintain the active fermentation within a safe range, ideally as repeatably as possible, and without causing any unnecessary heating/cooling oscilations etc.

I suspect in my last two batches, a very active fermentation (oxygenated with O2, 1 million cells/ml/°P) produced a lot of heat and got actively cooled, but by the time the probe registered being back at the set point the yeast had started to drop out early. (Though without a log of temperature this is just speculation.)

The probe was in a relatively central thermowell (originally sited where I expected the most active fermentation to be happening, and with the BrewPi algorithm in mind). In my next brew I'm going to move the probe much closer to the lower outer edge of the fermenter (or even tape it to the side) so it responds quicker to heating or cooling which may well solve my issue.

Cheers!
 
... Secondly, me thinks that the idea of having a profile is that it should be followed. Free rise would depend on ambient, what if it is cold and the temperature doesn't rise, but rather drop? ...

There's a great point here. I cringe a little every time I hear mention of "free rise." That's nonsensical for me, because my fermenter ambient temps are frequently 40 to 50 F. I think when people say "free rise" they are assuming that ambient is "room" temperature. (The room temperature that I live in varies from 60 to 80 F, so even that is a bit of nonsense, but probably they mean around 70 F.) For the woman fermenting beer in her uncooled attic in Phoenix, Arizona (silly Phoenician), free rise is much different than it is for the guy fermenting on his unheated porch in North Dakota (silly NoDakian). I think we would do home brewers a favor by striking "free rise" from our vocabulary. MANY of us do not ferment in ambient temperatures that are "room" temperature.

So I am not in favor of losing any STC+ functionality to allow "free rise". (No offense to the good Doctor, who understood the issues immediately after Alphaomega's post. And no offense to the good people of Phoenix and North Dakota. :))
 
I don't see how it's nonsensical, it's pretty obvious the conditions in every brewery are going to be different. Just as with recipe formulation you have to make adjustments for your own equipment. If a book mentions free rise, it means exactly that. Maximum temperature is also usually provided.

In any case, it's only in specific cases that a brewery would allow the ferment temperature to free rise, and I imagine is mainly due to convenience and energy savings. If you can control temperature at every time point with precision, such as with the STC-1000+, I don't see why you wouldn't. You can experiment and dial in a flavor profile and then have repeatability without having to worry about ambient.
 
Is there a clean way to separate the display from the relay board ?

My kegerator thermostat is either really picky, or isn't shutting off. So I'm faced with buying a $30 replacement thermostat, or an STC-1000. There is not good place to mount the
thing, but maybe the front display and buttons could be mounted to the door.
 
I don't see how it's nonsensical, it's pretty obvious the conditions in every brewery are going to be different.

Well...that is the nonsense.

If a book mentions free rise, it means exactly that. Maximum temperature is also usually provided.

If your ambient temperature is, say, 32 F, doing "exactly that" may result in cooling your beer instead of allowing the temperature to increase. Listing a maximum temperature does not help.
 
Yes. The difficulty is in desoldering the pcb's from each other. Use a vacuum solder sucker to remove as much solder as possible. Then pray you can separate them without breaking anything important.
Replace the soldered connections with a flat cable, optionally with connectors.
The display part will still mount nicely. Mine is held in place by friction, but i guess you could use some silicone or something if needed.
 
I personally love the idea of a free rise, but then again, I live in the Houston area and 90% of the time my garage (where my ferm chamber is located) is higher than fermentation temps (if not significantly higher). What I've been doing is just unplugging my fermwrap during the free rise portion of my ferment. It seems to work well. I'd love to have the ability for it, but I don't want to rob others of other functionality they may want so I'm ok with forgoing it. Soft off, well... I have a "hard off" on the side of my box that does the trick for me. I would however love to have a thermometer mode while I don't have a fermentation going. On the issue of profile count and setpoint count, if we can link profiles, I'm happy with reducing both the number of profiles and setpoints.

Anyway you cut it, this is the most badass device. Thanks again! :mug:
 
The alternative to free rise is to control the gradual heating that is desired, and as orangehero pointed out, "If you can control temperature at every time point with precision, such as with the STC-1000+, I don't see why you wouldn't." I agree completely.

If you have a warm ambient temperature and you want to free rise, you simply program your STC+ to ramp from your current temperature to the maximum free rise temperature. If you can get by without heat for this ramp, unplug the heat. If it heats too fast, you may get cooling, but that's what you want. After all, it was heating TOO fast -- faster than you wanted when you programmed the ramp. Personally, I would leave the heat plugged in, so if it doesn't heat fast enough, it will heat it.

I recently brewed a saison that I didn't want to cool during the ramp, so I unplugged the cold and left the heat plugged in. This allowed it to ramp up as fast and high as it wanted to go, but not slower than I wanted based on my ramp setpoints. If it started to cool, the heat would kick in, so this wasn't really a free rise. Better.

So yeah, the STC+ is awesome. We don't need no stinkin free rise; we have STC+!
 
Hehe... Ok, this is turning into a debate on free rise instead :)
I have no problem with free rise, I can understand that some want to use it. If I could, I would have nothing against adding it. But you really need to pick your battles when it comes to what will fit in the STC.
Still, you can mitigate the issue by using a low power heater. That will allow your temp to eventually get there, but do it slowly. Slow is good, when you are in the correct range.
 
I personally love the idea of a free rise, but then again, I live in the Houston area and 90% of the time my garage (where my ferm chamber is located) is higher than fermentation temps (if not significantly higher). What I've been doing is just unplugging my fermwrap during the free rise portion of my ferment.

I suppose you could always put the temperature probe in a tiny glass of water for damping and control the chamber temperature. You don't get any insurance against overshooting the high temperature but you'd get a more consistent environment to experiment with free rising. This would also work for people with the opposite problem of cold ambient temperatures in their garage.

In any case, it's only in specific cases that a brewery would allow the ferment temperature to free rise, and I imagine is mainly due to convenience and energy savings.

It's pretty common in the UK, even in larger microbreweries that export to the US, that cooling takes the form of manually controlled valves that restrict the flow of glycol around cooling coils built into the walls of the fermenters. They use a cold liquor tank held at a controlled low temperature to cool the wort passing through the plate heat exchanger (the used cooling water then refills the HLT for the next brew). The cooling of the fermentation is then relatively gentle and constant, and I suppose simply emulates a lower ambient temperature. The cooling is increased after fermentation to drop the yeast but there's nothing actively responding to the temperature of fermentation.

This isn't just because they're backward or won't spend the money (though this may also be true in quite a few cases ;)), it's also because that's how many traditional yeast strains work best. Consider for example how Anchor's fermentations take place. That's certainly not convenient! Firestone Walker's approach is also described in the Chris White & Jamil Zainasheff Yeast book where fermentation has 24 hours in cooled conical fermenters then is transferred to their union set without further temperature control until primary fermentation finishes then its back to a stainless temperature controlled vessel to cool and drop the yeast etc.

The Yeast book also describes what I think happened to my two previous batches, and would be avoided in a free rise scenario:
Yeast slow down and produce less heat towards the end of fermentation. If your cooling does not adjust for this decrease, the yeast can sense this temperature drop, causing them to slow or stop fermenting. This can result in a higher than anticipated final gravity, along with the yeast failing to clean up some of the intermediary compounds of fermentation.

If you can control temperature at every time point with precision, such as with the STC-1000+, I don't see why you wouldn't. You can experiment and dial in a flavor profile and then have repeatability without having to worry about ambient.

Please don't think I'm picking on you individually but you articulated here a very attractive and intuitive concept so it's useful to quote! Of course we all want things to be repeatable but it's certainly no criticism of the STC-1000+ firmware when I say that we're assuming too much consistency within the fermenter if we believe that this temperature control will provide that level of precision. Presumably what we're most concerned with is the temperature range experienced by the most active yeast cells. I mentioned convection in my previous post. If you have library access to Brewing: Science and Practice by D E Briggs, P A Brookes, R Stevens, and C A Boulton then (apart from generally being a great source of information) page 538 has a really interesting discussion of the challenges of uniform temperature distribution even in state of the art commercial fermenters:

… it is clear that the natural convection currents are inadequate to provide totally uniform cooling irrespective of the position of the cooling jackets on the vessel or the nature of the coolant used. Beer in the upper volume of a tank may hardly change its temperature throughout a cooling regime. Temperature probes in the lower zones of the tank may indicate that temperature control is being achieved but this is often not the case for all the beer in the tank.

If your fermenter is accessible during fermentation, you can verify this yourself if you have a suitable length thermometer or thermowell. This is of course the fuel of the endless debates elsewhere on this forum and others about correct temperature probe placement (actual answer: what works best is actually a side effect of the combination of the algorithm of the controller and dynamics of the specific system).

If you want to disappear down a rabbit hole reading about the behaviour of the cooled film of liquid on the inside walls of the fermenter, then the inversion temperature is particularly interesting: water at 4°C is most dense; water both over and under this temperature will rise above it (again discussed in Brewing: Science and Practice if you're interested). An interesting idea it talks about is only cooling one side of a fermenter in areas where this inversion happens to encourage lateral convection. I wonder if adding some insulation on one side of the fermenter would have any useful effect at our scale?

I have no doubt the STC1000+ is helping achieve the improved consistency we all seek but it's healthy to remember in such a complex dynamic system there are more variables that will affect the temperature the yeast experience from batch to batch than just the controller profile (probe placement, heater size, heater lag, chamber size, chamber insulation, other chamber occupants, outside ambient temperature, outside ambient temperature range, initial wort temperature, fermenter material, fermenter shape, batch volume, oxygenation, yeast nutrient availablity, viable yeast cells pitched, yeast generation, yeast strain, and so on…). For me the goal is to minimise the variability in results stemming from these factors rather than to think in absolutes, and to remember that sometimes prodding and poking a complex system makes it less predictable!

Hehe... Ok, this is turning into a debate on free rise instead :)
I have no problem with free rise, I can understand that some want to use it. If I could, I would have nothing against adding it. But you really need to pick your battles when it comes to what will fit in the STC.

Haha, yes, I didn't expect this to prove so controversial! I think this longer-than-intended post completes my input into that particular debate :)

Have you (or anyone else) experimented with the second probe much? That may well address some of my concerns too (I've not fitted one yet).
 
doctorjames you raise some very valid points! I would like to add though that this may not be as off topic as it first seems, as knowing how to correctly use the stc-1000+ effectively and efficiently is as important as anything. I for one went from no fermentation control to glycol jacketed sanke kegs and really enjoy it. It leaves out some of the inconsistencies that can arise from a chamber and ramping temps. Right now I use a thermowell that runs into the center, but I'm guessing that if it were slightly closer to the sides it would improve any over or undershoots (right now .3*, yeah yeah relative to the 1* accuracy of the temp sensor ;)). I haven't done the same amount of research that doctorjames has done, but I would speculate at the scale that we are doing the temperature stratification would lessen considerably. I'm would also imagine it would lessen even more if one were to pump the glycol through a coil in the wort as some are starting to do with their conicals. Cold wort would fall downward, warm would rise and meet the coil, and so on. As for the yeast getting cold at the end of fermentation, they are lazy sob's when they are almost done and don't respond well to downward temps, which is why I have been using the ramping feature to gradually ramp up to the higher temp range of the particular yeast to make them finish out quicker. Before I would always come in a few points short of where BeerSmith would estimate my FG would be, now I hit it dead on.

As for the free rise debate, obviously you can experiment with what you want, but I like controlling the entire process precisely as much as possible. That isn't to say I haven't had instances where the beer was done but I wasn't ready for it. I just disengaged both relays and let it sit in limbo in my 65* basement until I had time to deal with it. When I designed my fermentation panel I put indicator lights for heating and cooling (I just glance into the room where I ferment and can tell what it is doing from a distance), and manual on/off switches for heating and cooling. That would be an easy cheap solution for a scenario where you want cooling but no heating or vise versa. Switch them both off and you have temp only. Now if I had only thought ahead to put switches for the units themselves I wouldn't be whining about the soft off!
 
Is the firmware upgrade still for version 1.0 only ?I have a stc 1000 with
"A400 p ver 1.0" on the inside main board . BUT it says a400_D&M version 1.1 on the display board above the input buttons .
Can this stc1000 be flashed ?
Thanks
Stacy
 
Pic

Screenshot_2014-10-07-19-04-07.jpg
 
Is the firmware upgrade still for version 1.0 only ?I have a stc 1000 with
"A400 p ver 1.0" on the inside main board . BUT it says a400_D&M version 1.1 on the display board above the input buttons .
Can this stc1000 be flashed ?
Thanks
Stacy

Yes, this is a flashable unit.
 
Dear doctorjames, are you sure you have put enough thought into this?
I mean after all we are talking about fermentation of homebrewed beer here, if you haven't actually sat down and made a thermodynamic model of your fermentation vessel that accounts for the fluid motion due to yeast activity at different stages, stratification and convectional currents, then what is the point? :)
Seriously, I don't judge if you have, brewing is awesome, there is something in there for everyone. Some want to weld and/or solder, some culture yeast, some experiment with recipe formulation, build gadgets or whatever. There is more than enough fields of expertise you could sink your teeth into if you are interested. To me there is no need to justify going overboard on anything, it is a hobby and you do what you want with it.
I think in this case though (as probably in many others) you reach a point of diminishing returns pretty quickly. If brewing better beer is the goal, then some temperature control (ice bottles, wet cloth etc) is a lot better than none, and a decent one (thermostat), while probably even better, won't make as much difference. I agree that there are many variables and that most probably don't have the level of control they think they have. Somehow, in the end, most of the time, you end up with a decent pint anyway :)

Oh yeah, and in other news (and totally off topic btw). Yesterday I became a father to a beautiful little baby girl :) Yay!
 
ver 1.06 I can't get out of this screen.unplugged the power several times and this is the default display.I can move thru all of the menus w/o a problem.Thanks


stc1000ver106.jpg
 
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