stc-1000 questions

[mattcuso]

let me start this out by saying I have no electrical experience and after reading the 300 sum od pages of info on this topic im still lost. I am trying to build a temp controller for my garage fridge so I can ferment in it and im not sure on a few things

1. Can I use an extension cord with #16 wires on it or do I need to get another?

2. Can I use the wires from the extension cord to wire up the stc to the outlet?

Any help will be much appreciated.

 

[blawson327]

I'm no electrical expert either, but I personally wouldn't use 16ga to run a fridge/freezer. A quick search showed 16ga is good to 13 amps. Thats probably plenty to run your fridge(and the stc1000 is good for 10amps at 110v anyway), however, if your circuit breaker is a 15 or 20 amp, the 16ga wire becomes the weakest link and would burn up before the breaker tripped.

I am also building a ferm chamber with the stc1000 and plan to use 14ga wire for my internal wiring, and 14ga minimum for my extention cord.

 

[mattcuso]

thanks for the quick reply. I figured that was the case. I bought the extension cord without even looking and later realized it was so small. looks like its back to lowes

 

[MindenMan]

I suggest you buy a three prong extension cord. (I didn't and wish I had) I wired it with a heat plug , a cooling plug, and an always hot on a 14" section of the extension cord i wired it with. It might simplify your build if you read the amp draw of your freezer/fermentation cabinet on the tag to check the load so you be sure to use the right gauge wires.

 

[Bensiff]

I'm no electrical expert either, but I personally wouldn't use 16ga to run a fridge/freezer. A quick search showed 16ga is good to 13 amps. Thats probably plenty to run your fridge(and the stc1000 is good for 10amps at 110v anyway), however, if your circuit breaker is a 15 or 20 amp, the 16ga wire becomes the weakest link and would burn up before the breaker tripped. I am also building a ferm chamber with the stc1000 and plan to use 14ga wire for my internal wiring, and 14ga minimum for my extention cord.

I disagree, if this were the case you would never use anything less than a 14 gauge wire for your standard 15 amp circuit. Amperage is drawn, not pushed so unless you are plugged into something that draws more amperage than the wiring can handle you are fine. If you are greatly concerned about this condition you can put an inline fuse in to protect from over amperage like they do with Christmas lights, I presume the only reason is so some knuckle head doesn't use an old strand if multi color as an extension cord to a table saw. Anyway, your determining factor is the rating of what you are plugging in, check that to determine how much amperage is being drawn and then size the wire accordingly. I have 3 ranco etc111000 controllers all wired by butchering a common 16 gauge extension cord and none if them have ever found a chest freezer or fridge that draws more than that gauge can handle.

 

[b-boy]

Use 14-gauge throughout the build, including the chord.

 

[Bensiff]

Use 14-gauge throughout the build, including the chord.

Can you explain the logic of using wire that has double the amp capacity of what it is being used for?

 

[nhbubba]

Look at the cord to the fridge. What gauge is it? Betcha it is 16. Mine is.

I used a 16 gauge cord for my STC-1000 based controller as well. I sleep at night.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

16 is fine, i wouldnt go 18 though...

 

[mattcuso]

So 16 is good for the wiring and the cord?

 

[Mirilis]

Yes!, 16 is fine... if you find a fridge that takes more than 10 amps to run then there are other issues you need to worry about. Besides the controller will burn up before the extension cord will.. im pretty sure the controller even has a fuse in it to protect it so worst case you blow the fuse and have to take the controller apart to replace fuse.

using a cord that has a amperage rating greater than the breaker for loads way less than that is like wiping before you poop... it dont make sense.

 

[theck]

Going to be using the stc as well for my outdoor fridge kegerator. be easier than having to go out there and turn on/off a light bulb or on/off the fridge all winter. Good info thanks.

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Home Brew mobile app

 

[mattcuso]

thanks for the help fellas. I should have this thing done by tonight so I'll post some picks later on

 

[theck]

hey everyone, I see two types... 220V and 110V, which one is the one can can be used for our purposes? Oh I see the 220 is a euro one... correct?

 

[Mirilis]

Yup.. 110v is what's running through your standard plugs

 

[nhbubba]

Yes. 110V AC for most of us here in the US.

 

[raouliii]

.... im pretty sure the controller even has a fuse in it to protect it....

No. It doesn't have an internal fuse associated with the relays.

 

[IslandLizard]

Yes!, 16 is fine... if you find a fridge that takes more than 10 amps to run then there are other issues you need to worry about. Besides the controller will burn up before the extension cord will..

Agreed!

im pretty sure the controller even has a fuse in it to protect it so worst case you blow the fuse and have to take the controller apart to replace fuse.

FYI, the STC-1000 does NOT have a fuse built in, I opened one up. The relays are rated at 15A @ 125V or 10A @ 277V.
If drawing more than the amp limit, the relay contacts may fuse and remain on... Or just burn out. 50/50 chance I'd say.

 

[helibrewer]

When I opened mine, the relays were actually labeled 15A, I still used 16 gauge throughout all of my STC's

 

[mattcuso]

got it all put together. it powers up and gives me a temp but I haven't tested it fully. everything good so far tho. thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it. pics coming soon.

 

[mattcuso]

if anyone needs the info on what I used or where I got it from hit me up. if you sign up for amazon's free 30 day trial period for prime you can get free 2 day shipping fyi. just don't forget to cancel it before the 30 days is up.

 

[mattcuso]

pics

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

if anyone needs the info on what I used or where I got it from hit me up. if you sign up for amazon's free 30 day trial period for prime you can get free 2 day shipping fyi. just don't forget to cancel it before the 30 days is up.

Amazon Prime in general is so worth it if you order off them often...

Nothing like paying 0 dollars to get a 30lb Miter saw shipped to my house in 2 days for half the price it'd cost at HDepot or Lowes...

If/when they ever open up a Grocery store i'll be all over that.

 

[nhbubba]

If/when they ever open up a Grocery store i'll be all over that.

https://fresh.amazon.com/welcome

Mind... blown! Kabooooom!

 

[mattcuso]

so I testing out the controller this evening on the free fridge I got which I planned to use for my ferm chamber. controller works great but now the damn fan in the freezer isn't pushing air down into the fridge area. im gunna let it run for a while to see what happens but if it doesn't start to work I want to take the panel that separates the fridge and freezer off and see if it will get cold enough like that. Any thoughts or advice? I think ive see someone else do this on here I just cant seem to find it.

 

[raouliii]

If it's a standard kitchen fridge you'll need that fan to move air thru the evaporator coil. The fan is not just there to share air between the freezer and refrigerator compartment.

 

[mattcuso]

what does that mean

 

[raouliii]

What it means is that the fan is required for operation. Your post appeared to indicate that the fan was not operating. Maybe I misinterpreted. If that is not what you meant, please correct me.

FWIW, a standard kitchen refrigerator/freezer has an evaporator coil in the freezer, usually behind the interior rear wall. A fan circulates air thru this coil in order to remove heat in the freezer compartment. There is usually some type of air ducting/damper system that allows a small flow of this freezer air into the refrigerator compartment for cooling. If the fan is not circulating the air, the system will not function. The evaporator will quickly turn into a block of ice.

There is another common type of refrigerator that just has a cold plate evaporator with no fan but that design is usually relegated to dorm size refrigerators.

 

[mattcuso]

Yea the fan wasn't working. I took the aluminum plate and styrafoam out from in between the fridge part and freezer. Seems to be working for the moment. So you think its gonna freeze in there? What's going to happen if it does? I have no clue how a fridge works BTW so please excuse my ignorance.

I really appreciate the help btw

 

[raouliii]

.... So you think its gonna freeze in there?...

Well, it's supposed to freeze in the freezer, however, once the evaporator builds up some ice, because of the lack of air movement, cooling (removal of heat) will be steadily reduced.

..... I have no clue how a fridge works BTW.....

Which is why dismantling the interior may not have been the best course of action.