Starting to build a kegerator; I have a few basic questions about what I need

[mtnagel]

So far this is what I have:
- 2 pin lock corny kegs I bought when I started brewing assuming I was going to keg, but haven't for the two years I've been brewing, but now I'm ready. And I got them for ~$25, so I got them before prices have climbed.
- Danby DAR440BL I bought on Craigslist for $70. Brand new, but back corner is dented (oh well). I've seen guides on the conversions on this exact one, so I think I'm good on the conversion.

Here's what I still need and the questions:
- Thinking of buying the Double Faucet Stainless Draft Beer Tower w/ Perlick 525SS Stainless Faucets. It looks like I want SS tower and Perlick 525SS faucets seem to be well liked on here. The flow control ones seem intriguing, but since they aren't SS, I'm thinking I'll stick with the 525SS. Any comments on that?
- Regulator - At first I thought I wanted a dual regulator so I could set the pressure separately on each of the 2 kegs, but in researching, it seems that's not critical. I will most likely only have pale ales, IPAs, porters, stouts in there. Nothing that would require wildly different pressures. Any reason I should get a dual regulator or am I good a single regulator that splits off to each keg? Any recommendations?
- CO2 - I may just buy whatever my LHBS has because I can get 10% off. If not, I may just get the $70 5 lb new aluminum tank on Amazon. Any reason to get new over used? Is 5 lb good enough? I'm not even sure the 10 lb would fit in my fridge.
- All the connections and tubing I'll probably get at my LHBS.

Anything else I'm missing?

 

[Newsman]

From my limited knowledge, that looks good. Most folks on here say you probably want about 10' of beer line in order to keep the foam down when you pour. As for CO2, yeah, you'll need a "wye" to get gas to both kegs, but as long as you're good with both kegs having the same pressure, you should be good.

 

[mtnagel]

Thanks.

Actually I do have a question on the regulator. Looks like I have 3 options for splitting.

The splitter built into the regulator:

I could add this after the regulator:

And then this one has a plastic splitter:

I'm assuming brass is better than plastic, but any reason to go with the first or the second? Or will they both be equivalent?

 

[Newsman]

Either one or two should work. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with a plastic "wye" myself. I don't see any particular reason why you should choose one of the first two options over the other. I guess it mainly comes down to whether you have space for the standalone splitter or if you need to keep things extremely compact.

That's just my considered opinion. As I said, I don't have a kegerator or a keezer, so other folks may have other opinions.

 

[mtnagel]

Cool thanks. That's kind of what I figured.

 

[tnlandsailor]

I wrote a primer on kegging that might be of interest to you.

http://handsonbrewing.com/brewers-reference/process/kegging/

If you plan to brew those styles you mentioned, I don't think multiple pressures are worth the effort. Splitting the gas flow will be much easier this way.

 

[Newsman]

By the way, I took a look at the link you posted in your original message. Someone who bought it said it comes with the Sanke keg connectors for commercial kegs. Since you're planning on using pin lock kegs, you'll have to cut those off and replace them with pin lock taps.

 

[Jupapabear]

I used the second option listed above, simply so that my system can grow. I bought the splitter with 3 holes on the bottom, 1 on each end. Max amount on mine would be 4 kegs.

I just bought the brass plugs and Teflon tape to keep the holes not in use plugged. Have the CO2 tank out side of my take for and few reasons: it's going to take up space (20# tank), with the free space I may and do more kegs, it's more economical... so I have only one gas line running into my system, where it connects to my spiltter.

EDIT: I'm referring to the brass block manifold as well.

 

[Hamaki]

Regarding the gas splitter choices, I plan to go with the separate aluminum block manifold inside the keezer and keep the co2 tank & manifold outside. I've read that the regulator responds quicker to pressure changes at warmer temps. Also, I picked up a 20 lb tank that would take up too much room inside.

 

[Grannyknot]

The plastic Y has no isolated shut offs.
The distributors usually require you to mount them in the fridge, sometimes can be tricky.
I like the first pictured option.

 

[mtnagel]

I wrote a primer on kegging that might be of interest to you.

http://handsonbrewing.com/brewers-reference/process/kegging/

If you plan to brew those styles you mentioned, I don't think multiple pressures are worth the effort. Splitting the gas flow will be much easier this way.

That site looks very helpful! Bookmarked. Thanks.

By the way, I took a look at the link you posted in your original message. Someone who bought it said it comes with the Sanke keg connectors for commercial kegs. Since you're planning on using pin lock kegs, you'll have to cut those off and replace them with pin lock taps.

It's weird because they don't list it in the description. Turns out it's cheaper to buy the setup directly from homebrewstuff even with adding in the pin lock connections (depending on shipping), so I may get it from there instead of Amazon anyway.

Regarding the gas splitter choices, I plan to go with the separate aluminum block manifold inside the keezer and keep the co2 tank & manifold outside. I've read that the regulator responds quicker to pressure changes at warmer temps. Also, I picked up a 20 lb tank that would take up too much room inside.

I think for now I'll go inside to keep it neat and tidy looking, but thanks for the info.

The plastic Y has no isolated shut offs.
The distributors usually require you to mount them in the fridge, sometimes can be tricky.
I like the first pictured option.

Thanks.

 

[Newsman]

That site looks very helpful! Bookmarked. Thanks.

It's weird because they don't list it in the description. Turns out it's cheaper to buy the setup directly from homebrewstuff even with adding in the pin lock connections (depending on shipping), so I may get it from there instead of Amazon anyway.

I think for now I'll go inside to keep it neat and tidy looking, but thanks for the info.

Thanks.

Yeah. Sometimes it's cheaper to go direct, sometimes it's cheaper to go through Amazon. I'm an Amazon Premier member, so I get free 2-day shipping which helps with the cost.... but only on things sold by or fulfilled by Amazon

 

[Jupapabear]

I'm also a fan of Amazon Prime, but have you checked out KegConnection.com? Pretty legit pricing. Just a heads up.

 

[Jupapabear]

I'm also a fan of Amazon Prime, but have you checked out KegConnection.com? Pretty legit pricing. Just a heads up.

 

[Roadie]

One argument for dual regulator would be you could force carb and still serve at the same time. Obviously you can carb via set/forget method just bringing up choices. I'd go carb manifold with check valves so no worry about back-flow. If you LHBS operates on a swap/fill program I would not buy a tank.

 

[mtnagel]

One argument for dual regulator would be you could force carb and still serve at the same time. Obviously you can carb via set/forget method just bringing up choices. I'd go carb manifold with check valves so no worry about back-flow.

Can't you shut off or remove the gas line to the keg that is at serving pressure and then force carb the other? So you can't simultaneously force carb and dispense, but you can do them one after the other? Do I have that correct?

If you LHBS operates on a swap/fill program I would not buy a tank.

I have no idea what they do. I'll find out tomorrow.

 

[Roadie]

Can't you shut off or remove the gas line to the keg that is at serving pressure and then force carb the other? So you can't simultaneously force carb and dispense, but you can do them one after the other? Do I have that correct?

I have no idea what they do. I'll find out tomorrow.

Yes.

 

[mtnagel]

Thanks. Sounds workable then.

 

[Newsman]

Except, that you will need to refresh the CO2 in the serving keg once in awhile as the volume of beer goes down, as otherwise, you'll run out of pressure before you run out of beer.

 

[mtnagel]

Yeah, I figured that.

 

[Roadie]

After force carbing for a couple days he'd connect serving kegs and set back to serving pressure. Easy.

 

[mtnagel]

Some more basic questions:

Pin lock kegs - does it matter which hole is the gas and which is the liquid. They seem identical, but just want to make sure.

How to pressure test the keg? I did fill it with some water. Turn on the co2. Dispensed some water just to check it. Unhooked it and it's sitting there pressurized. If I check it a few days later and it still is pressurized, is that a good enough test?

Keg lube - do I use it on every o ring? Just the big one?

My LHBS only had black tubing so I bought it for both gas and beer lines. 10' of 3/16" ID for beer and 3' of 5/16" for gas. Any issues with that?

 

[day_trippr]

"Hole"? On any corny keg there will be a long dip tube for beer (aka the "Out" dip tube) extending to the bottom of the keg and a short dip tube for gas (aka the "In" dip tube" ending just below the top of the keg). Above the dip tubes are the posts - and on a pin lock keg, the gas post has two pins and the beer post has three. So, yes, it matters which you hook up to which line.

Imo, best practice is to pressurize the keg empty, test for leaks using either a dishwashing soap & water mix or standard Star San mix. If you put water in the keg the gas you put in will dissolve in the water leaving not a lot of pressure for any extended leak-down test.

Use keg lube on all o-rings - even the two small o-rings under the dip tube flanges - and all poppets.

Don't know anything about black tubing either way, but I prefer clear tubing for both beer and gas...

Cheers!

 

[mtnagel]

Thanks for the info.

I do know which tube goes on which post, but does it matter if I switch everything? So both the long tube and it's post and the short tube and it's post. If I switched both parts to the other "hole".

 

[day_trippr]

Thanks for the info.

I do know which tube goes on which post, but does it matter if I switch everything? So both the long tube and it's post and the short tube and it's post. If I switched both parts to the other "hole".

As long as the beer post sits on top of the long dip tube, you could switch positions with the gas post and the short dip tube. That's assuming you don't have a plastic short dip tube on the gas side, as the hole in the threaded riser is usually smaller diameter than for a stainless steel dip tube...

Cheers!

 

[mtnagel]

Awesome thanks.