Starting AG, need some advice

[petree3]

So I built my mashtun out of a 10 gallon water cooler and now I'm ready for my first all-grain batch. In addition to building the mashtun I also ordered a nice 8 gallon brew pot with and a banjo burner to take the whole operation out on the deck. My question lies with how I incorporate my old brew pot. This is a $40 special I got from Target when I first started to extract batches. I want to boil in my new pot but the built in ball valve makes it suited to being the hot liquor tank. I've heard the term hot side aeration thrown around and most people say it's a myth but would it be ok if I just used my old pot to collect the wort while sparging and then dump it in to my new shiny pot? Also any little tips that you can remember that would have made your first all grain batch easier?

 

[Prymal]

Use the old kettle for the hot liquor tank. If you are batch sparing there is no need for a spigot though it is nice. You will most definitely want a spigot on your boil kettle. After the boil is complete as you cool the wort whirlpool the beer to help force all of the break material was well as the hops into a cone in the center of the pot. This will aide in creating clear beer just a little faster because you can leave the cone of gunk behind.

 

[shawnbou]

I agree with using the older pot for your hot liquor tank. I assume it's smaller and you want the biggest pot possible for your boil kettle. You will also want a ball valve on your boil kettle to transfer wort to the fermenter easily.

It's very easy to add a ball valve to your old pot if you need it. Just buy a valve and bulkhead (there are weldless options available that work just fine) and drill a hole with a step bit or hole saw. I'm not very handy and don't have a lot of tools, but I had a friend help me and it took about two minutes.

 

[petree3]

I will use the old pot for HLT as suggested, I really wanted to fly sparge but I guess I will just batch sparge this time. I will try those weldless fittings soon! Thanks guys!

 

[Denny]

I will use the old pot for HLT as suggested, I really wanted to fly sparge but I guess I will just batch sparge this time. I will try those weldless fittings soon! Thanks guys!

Hey, man, batch sparging is not the end of the world! I've batch sparged 425 batches and I'd never consider going back to fly sparging.

 

[Prymal]

Agreed batch spargeing takes no extra equipment then what you already have and though you might sacrifice 1 or 2 percent efficiency it is way easier to control IMO.

 

[Jakeintoledo]

and don't forget to whilrpool the boiled mash.

I had never heard of anyone doing that, until I read that here. I tried it, and hot **** mcgee, did it work great. if you put a spigot on your boil kettle, cool then whirlpool, it works like a CHARM.

 

[Jakeintoledo]

WORT. Boiled WORT.

durr. I'm drinking. sorry.

 

[mux]

WORT. Boiled WORT.

durr. I'm drinking. sorry.

 

[Denny]

Agreed batch spargeing takes no extra equipment then what you already have and though you might sacrifice 1 or 2 percent efficiency it is way easier to control IMO.

It is a myth that batch sparging is inherently less efficient than fly sparging.

 

[christpuncher123]

So I built my mashtun out of a 10 gallon water cooler and now I'm ready for my first all-grain batch. In addition to building the mashtun I also ordered a nice 8 gallon brew pot with and a banjo burner to take the whole operation out on the deck. My question lies with how I incorporate my old brew pot. This is a $40 special I got from Target when I first started to extract batches. I want to boil in my new pot but the built in ball valve makes it suited to being the hot liquor tank. I've heard the term hot side aeration thrown around and most people say it's a myth but would it be ok if I just used my old pot to collect the wort while sparging and then dump it in to my new shiny pot? Also any little tips that you can remember that would have made your first all grain batch easier?

Watch for boilovers, 8gal pot is a little small for 5gal batches.

 

[grimstuff]

It is a myth that batch sparging is inherently less efficient than batch sparging.

Could not agree more! :fro:

 

[Denny]

Could not agree more! :fro:

DOH!! Fixed.

 

[petree3]

Just got the stuff in the mail today! I'm excited to finally start all grain, just one small problem. The wyeast activator pack was activated by the lovely handling of UPS. The cold pack was also already room temperature. I threw the yeast in the fridge a fast as I could. I plan on brewing on Saturday and it's only Tuesday ( doing my starter on Thursday). Is this yeast still going to have enough viability to work properly or should I go down to lhbs and get another one?

 

[Denny]

Yep, not a problem.

 

[mux]

Just got the stuff in the mail today! I'm excited to finally start all grain, just one small problem. The wyeast activator pack was activated by the lovely handling of UPS. The cold pack was also already room temperature. I threw the yeast in the fridge a fast as I could. I plan on brewing on Saturday and it's only Tuesday ( doing my starter on Thursday). Is this yeast still going to have enough viability to work properly or should I go down to lhbs and get another one?

Get some dry yeast to have in your tool box. But the should be ok. Good idea your doing a starter this not only prepare the yeast for maltose but will proof the yeast. If no activity in the starter in 12 hours consider getting new yeast.

 

[petree3]

Get some dry yeast to have in your tool box. But the should be ok. Good idea your doing a starter this not only prepare the yeast for maltose but will proof the yeast. If no activity in the starter in 12 hours consider getting new yeast.

I do have some US-05 left over from some of my first batches but I don't think it's appropriate for this beer. Plus I have a little bit of bias against dry yeast probably due to the fact that I blamed my first couple of bad batches on the yeast. (more likely poor temp control / handling)