Stainless pot

[FuzzeWuzze]

As I understand it, you want an oxidation level on an aluminum pot (that is why folks suggest boiling a kettle full of water for at least 30 minutes when you first get it). Oxyclean will remove the oxidation, meaning you would have to boil water for 30 minutes and then toss it out before starting your brew each time. At least that is my understanding, but I could be wrong.

In theory this is the rumor.

Actual science states that Aluminum oxidizes the instant it touches oxygen...so even if you took a scrubby and rubbed the hell out of it, the aluminum forms an oxide the instant it touches air.

You should still not scratch it though with abrasives, just because it will scratch more easily than steel.

 

[Golddiggie]

In theory this is the rumor.

Actual science states that Aluminum oxidizes the instant it touches oxygen...so even if you took a scrubby and rubbed the hell out of it, the aluminum forms an oxide the instant it touches air.

You should still not scratch it though with abrasives, just because it will scratch more easily than steel.

Nothing wrong with boiling water in it for ~30 minutes to build up a hard (visible) oxide layer on the aluminum. It also provides a rather nice, more non-stick surface on the kettle/pot. I found that if you start with warm (or hot) tap water the layer builds up darker, making it more evident.

I also found that the visible layer you get with the stove top/boiling method is easier to see than trying to do it inside the stove/oven. Besides, not everyone has an oven that can contain a 10 gallon pot.

 

[Fennis]

Aluminum is fine, there is nothing wrong with using it. I purchased a 40qt aluminum pot on amazon about a year ago and I've used it for many batches and its done very well. I did choose to boil water in it for 30 minutes not only to allow the pot to oxidize much more visibly, but to also remove any industrial chemicals possibly used in the process. I believe it was this that I ordered:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CHKL68/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Golddiggie]

Aluminum is fine, there is nothing wrong with using it. I purchased a 40qt aluminum pot on amazon about a year ago and I've used it for many batches and its done very well. I did choose to boil water in it for 30 minutes not only to allow the pot to oxidize much more visibly, but to also remove any industrial chemicals possibly used in the process. I believe it was this that I ordered:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CHKL68/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Since you got the 4mm thick model, I would expect it to last a LONG time. That's the same make I was using (32 quart version) for a while. I installed a ball valve into it to make draining easier. Super easy to drill for the ball valve too. FAR easier than even thin stainless steel.

 

[sjohnv3]

WOW! For a quick second I thought we where in the AG vs Extract or Liquid vs Dry thread.

Zippitydo, no. you do not need to use stainless. Aluminum, stainless and enamal are all fine. The wort does not care what it is boiling in. I am assuming you are just doing a extract batch or using a cooler mash tun for all grain (dunno). If all you are doing is a scheduled boil with maybe some specialty grains get what you want, or can afford. There really is no science here IMO. Ask harder questions like how monitor temperature or how much yeast do I need. Those are way more importtent then what kind of pot you have.

My 2 cents

I have never used enamal covered pots. This is what I like about the other two:

Stainless - So easy to clean and store, even if I forget about for a day or so.

Aluminum - Transfers and holds heat allot better; uses less fuel during the boil.

 

[Golddiggie]

Stainless will hold heat longer. Especially in something like a keggle. Compare that to an aluminum kettle and you'll see what I mean. Aluminum will cool quickly, as you cool the wort (with an IC or recirc system).

IMO/IME, both are easy to clean. Stainless is not easier than aluminum. You can just get stainless to shine where you don't want that with aluminum. So stainless will be prettier, IF you care about that (most of us don't)...

 

[LandoLincoln]

Then why do you use the screen if it creates scorching?

If you're scorching that much, then either you're running the burner too high/hot, or something else is going on. I have minor heat marks on the bottom of my keggle after a batch. Easily removed. I also have the dip tube placed so that it's not on the bottom of the keggle.

Thick bottoms won't offset poor design choices.

Uh...I don't use the screen anymore in my keggle, due to the scorching issue. I didn't know that it would scorch until I tried it once.

Thanks for telling me my design sucks. If only I was as smart as you. Alas.

Tri-clad bottoms are designed to spread the heat out to prevent scorching, and what do you know - it works. Thin-wall kegs that weren't ever designed for boiling in have a much harder time with scorching for some weird reason. Maybe you could enlighten me as to why this might be.

 

[Golddiggie]

Uh...I don't use the screen anymore in my keggle, due to the scorching issue. I didn't know that it would scorch until I tried it once.

Thanks for telling me my design sucks. If only I was as smart as you. Alas.

Tri-clad bottoms are designed to spread the heat out to prevent scorching, and what do you know - it works. Thin-wall kegs that weren't ever designed for boiling in have a much harder time with scorching for some weird reason. Maybe you could enlighten me as to why this might be.

I could try to explain things to you but I suspect it will fall on deaf ears...

Might as well try, even broken clocks get it right twice a day.
Thick/clad bottoms are for STOCK pots where you'll be using lower heat for long periods. It's designed to more evenly distribute the heat across the entire bottom, to prevent burning.
The typical THIN wall pots are made for boiling and transfer more heat inside the vessel. Too thin and you'll get scorching IF you don't pay attention.
Keggles are 1-1.3mm thick (sides, top and bottom), which IS thicker than those thin pots. IF you don't do something stupid (very high heat, put something in direct contact with it that will create a scorch point) you won't have any issue. I have my dip tube about 1/2" off the bottom of the keggle (on the cone, NOT the center low point). As such, I get no scorching at that point. I get minimal residue where the flames touch the keggle bottom. Guess what, compared with my thick clad stock pot, it's not any more in the keggle. I used the stock pot on a gas stove when brewing with it.

Use your brains and you'll be fine. Do something stupid and well... Don't blame the vessel for your shortcomings.

Oh, and rant all you like, I'm not following this thread anymore.

 

[LandoLincoln]

Oh, and rant all you like, I'm not following this thread anymore.

Just take your ball and go home then. Bye.

As I said before, tri-clad bottoms do have a certain advantage over thin-wall pots and keggles. Golddiggie doesn't want to live in a world where tri-clad bottoms have any advantage, but there is indeed at least one advantage.

Tri-clad bottoms spread heat out much more evenly than keggles do, so if you're going to use some kind of stainless steel screen to keep the hops out of the dip tube and you're not using a tri-clad bottom pot, then take some precautions to ensure that the screen doesn't touch the bottom too much, or else you may have scorching issues.

 

[sjohnv3]

If I good give -1.....golddiggie would get it.. easy to be a know it all on the internet...oh look at me, I got six pack abs and post 100 times a day

 

[tone_s]

Here's the 8 gallon pot I got off Amazon this week. $29 free shipping
It's aluminum (I would love SS 10 gallon, but can't afford yet) I'm boiling it now.

Here's the link on Amazon if anyone is interested.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00194DVJI

 

[unionrdr]

Looks like a different style steamer tray than what I got. Nice lookin kettle though.

 

[bferullo]

Do I have to use stainless to boil in or can I use stoneware?

I used a "GRANITEWARE" pot from bed Bath and Beyond for years. It worked great and fit over three burners on my stove so I was able to do full boils for 5 gallon batches. Best 50 bucks I ever spent.

Now I have upgraded to a SPikebrewing kettle, but see no problem with the enamel coated stoneware.

 

[unionrdr]

As long as the enamel doesn't get chipped,it's fine.

 

[tone_s]

Looks like a different style steamer tray than what I got. Nice lookin kettle though.

Thanks, for the price it will suit me well until I go all grain. Then I will break down and invest in a 10+ gallon SS. One project/paycheck at a time

 

[Cathedral]

In theory this is the rumor.

Actual science states that Aluminum oxidizes the instant it touches oxygen...so even if you took a scrubby and rubbed the hell out of it, the aluminum forms an oxide the instant it touches air.

You should still not scratch it though with abrasives, just because it will scratch more easily than steel.

Technically this is true for pure aluminum or high grade aluminum alloys, but not so much for cheaper or cast alloys. Those alloys have a hard time self passivating so most places will apply a thin layer of pure aluminum to the surface of the alloy. That will provide your oxide layer, but if you scrub it off you'll expose the base alloy and will have to force passivate it to build up the oxidation to prevent pitting and corrosion.

Source: 14 years as a machinist. Its my job to know metals.