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Stainless Camlocks review

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Hey Brewbeemer,

I like your idea for modifying the Camlock barb fitting. I did a quick google search for a tool that would create the bulge in the tube, but came up with nothing but standard flaring tools. Do you have any idea if such a tool exists, and where one could get it? Since I bought a bunch of the 1/2" female barbed Camlocks, I definitely want to improve the flow through them.
 
You do not use the single flaring tool set, you need the double flaring tool set.
Use just the double flare instead of the cone of the single flaring process as the second step in the operation requires the inverted adapter piece. Use this second step to make the bulb on the end of your tubing.
This will allow for a thin wall nipple with a bulb at the end for a larger ID cross sectional area plus no hose blowoff problems. Heck I would use 5/8" tubing as the hose will stretch over the bulb as well the tubing. Add a bend to angle downwards preventing kinking of the silicone tubing for a natural angle. JMO.
 
I'm thinking about using the camlocks with 1/2" swagelock 90˚ adapters and some teflon tubing a brewer sent me to try out.
 
Thanks for the video Bobby. Really cleared it up. When looking at the straight fitting on one end of a hose, is there any reason you use the pipe nipple ground down versus grinding the actual thread on the Type B itself? Was it just to keep it in tact in case you wanted to change it up in the future?
 
You could do either but I imagine that keeping the Type B intact was a concern.

I myself went with Bobby's recommendation for the 90 street elbows and ground down the threaded side. They work perfect. I had to grind down 6 of them and it took about 15 minutes per piece for about 90 minutes total. But it was a great solution. Only added $3 per disconnect to the cost for 90 degree fittings which are nicer than straight fittings were the hose then has to bend 90 degrees and get pinched.
 
Ghart99, my thoughts exactly. sounds like many folks like the elbow 1) as a handle to push with and 2) to help avoid kinks in your tubing. 3) there isn't a ton off thread there to clamp on to. I think if you are careful with your tubing lengths you can avoid the kinks without an elbow and save your line the extra nooks and crannies you create when adding an elbow. I also think some folks are still a touch skeptical about these fittings and want to be able to resell them if they don't like em and selling a home-ground fitting might be tricky. If the venerable Bobby M could chime in I too would like to hear his thoughts on this grinding the threads idea. Anyone else out there try grinding the cam lock threads themselves? what is the concern with keeping the Type B intact?
 
Just to clear up how these things work... there is no pushing on. They just sit on there, and you tighten down the arms. Without the arms there is no friction whatsoever.
 
I would agree that the type B threads are not as long as the street elbow so you would indeed have less to grab onto if grounded down. But again not a huge deal. I merely like the elbows for the right angle connection only. When I did it without, the silicon tubing kinks when hot wort is pushed through. I have no idea how much this effects flow. But for $3 extra for the elbow I am more than satisfied. I know have the benefits of the brass mcmaster 90 degree QDs with all SS and twice the flow rate for the same cost. I could not be happier. Well if there were free I would be happier.
 
Thanks for the video Bobby. Really cleared it up. When looking at the straight fitting on one end of a hose, is there any reason you use the pipe nipple ground down versus grinding the actual thread on the Type B itself? Was it just to keep it in tact in case you wanted to change it up in the future?

My main reason is that I want elbows on all of mine. The hose just seems to come off nicer in almost all connections. Even 1/8" wall silicone will kink if it's stressed a bit. I know I showed a straight connection in the video but it's not how I use them in real life.

I should probably do a followup video showing them all installed on my rig. It's getting tougher to find time for videos when I'm packing up sightglasses after work every day.
 
Good to know Bobby. Thanks. for an extra few bucks it might be worth it to put elbows on both ends. It'll be $2 more to swap street elbows for the pipe nipples for get 90° vs straight.
 
Nice to know you're selling so many site glasses. I have yours of 2 of my kettles and love them.
 
Also, i don't recall seeing in the last 10 pages -

Is there any difference in the flow rate / thru diameter between the type B vs the D with a close nipple (1/2") inserted.

thanks
jason
 
HUge diff between the two. That's why the whole discussion about the 90* street elbows, etc.

If you're going to grind I would think a bench grinder is the only real option. If you don't have one, find one at a garage sale for $15. That's how I got mine a few weeks ago to do my street elbow grinding.
 
Would it be reasonable to put my angle grinder in a vice and then use that simliar to a bench grinder?

Thanks!
 
Make a couple half round cutouts out of wood and pad them preventing hard compression of the grinder that can vibrate and toss it out of the vice. I see a dangerous operation developing doing this.
I would place the female connector over a plug in the lathe with a live center
holding the nipple and machine them down safely, same procedure but chuck above the male end at the flats. Stainless is gummy to grind.
 
I did mine on a bench grinder and yes, it sucks. I stopped often to let the piece cool down. Another way is to mount the fitting into a vice and use a grinder hand held. It's much eaiser to do this with a straight nipple because the elbow part doesn't get in the way. Too bad the street L is a nicer solution.
 
Thanks Bobby.

But now that I just received a new little giant pump, that 3/4 " inlet opens up other possibilities.

Hmmmmm.

IF I use the 3/4" camlocks with barb, that would give me the .55 ID. Do you think I could stretch my silicone (1/2") over that outer barb size (.85)

So many options.....


thanks,
jason
 
Thanks Bobby.

But now that I just received a new little giant pump, that 3/4 " inlet opens up other possibilities.

Hmmmmm.

IF I use the 3/4" camlocks with barb, that would give me the .55 ID. Do you think I could stretch my silicone (1/2") over that outer barb size (.85)

So many options.....


thanks,
jason

Why not just use 3/4" hose?
 
This is what I am doing on my builds now. 3/4" camloks and 3/4" tubing. I dont see a point in using 1/2" hoses on 3/4" fittings. That would be like people using 3/8" tubing on their 1/2" fittings, who does that?
 
Prices for silicon tubing are all pretty standard. At least for 1/2" I haven't seen prices flucuate more than a few cents per foot.

I always use bargainfittings.com for stuff like that.
 
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