Stainless Camlocks review

[Tarheel4985]

So for those of us not as inclined to grinding down the threads on the street elbows, do you think simply "threading" the silicone tubing over the 1/2" NPT elbow would seal? Obviously clamps would be needed but I imagine that would hold pretty tight. Any thoughts?

 

[Bobby_M]

The threads seem to tear up the inside of the tubing a bit but I don't think it's a problem. The fit is so tight that a clamp would not be necessary.

 

[Tarheel4985]

Ok, so I've narrowed it down to either these stainless camlocks from proflowdynamics or the brass quick-disconnects from McMaster. For my set-up, I need a total of 7 male (HLT, MLT, BK, 2 for March pump, 2 for plate chiller) and 6 female (for 3 silicone hoses). I would like to use elbows for the females to avoid kinking. So here is the breakdown of cost, WITHOUT SHIPPING:

McMaster Brass Quick-Disconnects
(7) male nipples: 1/2" MPT x 3/8" coupling, part 6739K59 @ $1.98 = $13.86
(6) 90 degree female sleeve: 3/8" coupling x 1/2" barb, 6739K68 @ $8.01 = $48.06
Total: $61.92

Proflowdynamics Stainless Camlocks
(7) male lock: Type F 1/2" @ $3.92 = $27.44
(6) female lock: Type B 1/2" @ $5.52 = $33.12
(6) 1/2" NPT street elbows (from buyfittingsonline.com) @ $3.02 = $18.12
Total: $78.68

So if you're setup is like mine and you want to use the elbows for hoses, then the McMaster brass QD's are about $17 cheaper. The brass QD's can also be used one-handed. But the camlocks are stainless and if you use the street elbows (either simply threading the silicone or grinding the threads down to make a barb), then you'll have less flow restriction than the brass QD's. Seems like you can't really go wrong with either one and they both offer great value, but for only $17 more I'm leaning towards the camlocks.

 

[MacBruver]

I think it's worth the $17 for the bling, the stainless, and the extra flow. $78 for all that hardware is still not a bad deal. That reminds me, I gotta order 6 street elbows.

 

[ghart999]

I just ordered a bunch of these camlocks now that they are coming back in stock. Spoke to Michael today and the Type F and Type B's will be back in stock Monday.

I ordered 100 sets and will resell them to the forum at a 200% markup. Just kidding.

Just got 5 sets.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I was thinking more on the line of taking a flow restricting 1/2" barbed end female Camloc, cut off the barb then bore out to 0.625" hole. Take a piece of 0.625" stainless tubing of 0.058" wall thickness, add a hose bulb at the end preventing any hose blow off problems. The other end press fit and fusion Tig weld inside the female Camloc fitting. This will allow for 0.509" tubing ID bore for no flow restriction plus easy to pull 1/2" silicone tubing over the SS bulb and tubing stub. A simple quick lathe, flare bulb or bulge end then Tig it keeping everything in stainless as these Camlocs should flow.
http://eagletube.thomasnet.com/item...rd-fractional-tubing/s0625058t304sao?&seo=110

 

[Tarheel4985]

I was thinking more on the line of taking a flow restricting 1/2" barbed end female Camloc, cut off the barb then bore out to 0.625" hole. Take a piece of 0.625" stainless tubing of 0.058" wall thickness, add a hose bulb at the end preventing any hose blow off problems. The other end press fit and fusion Tig weld inside the female Camloc fitting. This will allow for 0.509" tubing ID bore for no flow restriction plus easy to pull 1/2" silicone tubing over the SS bulb and tubing stub. A simple quick lathe, flare bulb or bulge end then Tig it keeping everything in stainless as these Camlocs should flow.
http://eagletube.thomasnet.com/item...rd-fractional-tubing/s0625058t304sao?&seo=110

You are definitely on the other end of the spectrum from me as far as welding and mechanical inclination is concerned. More power to you. I'll have to stick with the simple "threading the tubing over the street elbow" method for now.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Seems to flow fine.

The hose barb measure .33" ID compared to .39" ID of my 1/2" SS hose barbs I sell.

Making that female hose barb of 0.330" ID to 0.500" ID like I mentioned amounts to 2.29 times more cross sectional area, or only 43.56% of area if left at the said .33" ID vs the .500" tube ID idea I have. This is a lot of unrestricted volume that can be gained when dealing with low presssures that the March pumps put out. Like Bobby_M stated every bit counts, this is a big restriction not even near or adding the silicone tubings .500" ID with fluid friction alone. Add to this the head pressure. No whirlpool or very little action, see why now?
Why settle with what manufactures offer in a product when a large flow improvement can be made or corrected?

 

[Wayne1]

BrewBeemer,

If you start doing those modifications to the CamLocks, I would be interested in getting some from you. Especially if you can build them with a 90 degree elbow. I have had no problems with the "restricted" flow females in my rig and I get a great whirlpool in my kettle. More is always better, however.

 

[bendavanza]

Same here, I'f you're willing to break out the TIG and make some custom barbed parts, I'd be interested.

 

[Tarheel4985]

I just got an update from Pro Flow Dynamics that the 1/2" camlock parts are back in stock! Get em' while they last. I just placed my order and can't wait to use them. If anyone is interested I have some brass QD's from McMaster that I no longer need. They are true 1/2" NPT x 1/2" plugs/couplers instead of the more popular 3/8".

 

[BrewBeemer]

I would be more than very happy myself if I could hell this would be a dream and free less the materials. I'm house bound walker and cane the back's failing going down hill. I'm still young. In my frustration I have plenty of time to think thru projects and ideas. Sorry to disappoint.

 

[ghart999]

I would be more than very happy myself if I could hell this would be a dream and free less the materials. I'm house bound walker and cane the back's failing going down hill. I'm still young. In my frustration I have plenty of time to think thru projects and ideas. Sorry to disappoint.

I don't understand a word of what you're trying to say here. Are you stoned?

On another note, I ordered a bunch of these 2 weeks ago, so hopefully they will ship finally.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I don't understand a word of what you're trying to say here. Are you stoned?

On another note, I ordered a bunch of these 2 weeks ago, so hopefully they will ship finally.

I would trade anything including being able to weld and fabricate again vs being crippled up in pain of 8-9 on the 10 pain scale at 24/7. Not stoned even on percocets. Crushed vertabra with fractures, bulging discs the spines a mess a job related injury. I've done many freebie welding projects for years as I enjoy helping others I get other rewards back from them with no money involved. This make my above reply clear?

 

[ghart999]

Yes that makes much more sense. Sorry to hear you're all jacked up like that. Harsh.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I own 9 bikes plus competed in shows plus cars, i'm only 57 now plus the past 8 years have been a living hell even after surgeries. Take care of your back! I'm an active person this has me frustrated and stopped with many delayed projects.

I clearly see Camlocs as clean and a quality item in SS, lathe off the barbed end then machine for 5/8" SS tube snug fit then Tig welded with the bulb at the end like a radiator stub with a flaring tool this would allow full 1/2" ID flow. Even take it and scale up to match 5/8" or even 3/4" SS stub nipples and matching silicone tubing. There's plenty of gasket sealing area for the male Camloc. I was already thinking of straight, 30 and 75 degree nipple angles for a natural and straight connection to the silicone tubing preventing kinking or flattening adding any flow restriction.

 

[ghart999]

So I went ahead and ordered the camlocks with the with 1/2" MPT and 90 street elbows (the barbed end grinded down and the silicon hose fitted over it) so I can get the 1/2" diameter all the way around.

A problem I never thought of until now is that all the SS diptubes I use in my HLT, MT and BK are all 3/8" ID. Hence I have another bottleneck that cannot be fixed unless I upgrade to 3/4" ballvalves and 3/4" NPT compression fittings for my diptubes and 1/2" ID diptubes. This will not happen. Damn I feel like I just waisted a ****load of time and a few extra $ converting all these camlocks to 1/2" when it doesn't even matter now.

I should've just stuck with the barbed camlocks.

 

[BrewBeemer]

So I went ahead and ordered the camlocks with the with 1/2" MPT and 90 street elbows (the barbed end grinded down and the silicon hose fitted over it) so I can get the 1/2" diameter all the way around.

A problem I never thought of until now is that all the SS diptubes I use in my HLT, MT and BK are all 3/8" ID. Hence I have another bottleneck that cannot be fixed unless I upgrade to 3/4" ballvalves and 3/4" NPT compression fittings for my diptubes and 1/2" ID diptubes. This will not happen. Damn I feel like I just waisted a ****load of time and a few extra $ converting all these camlocks to 1/2" when it doesn't even matter now.

I should've just stuck with the barbed camlocks.

The bad part is your inlet restrictions to the pump, going from 3/8" to 1/2" the cross section area alone has increased by 1.777 times. Pumps hate intake restrictions, pressure out isn't much of a problem unless it's a weak pump to begin with. I'll leave a pump name out on this one so no pissing wars this way.

 

[ghart999]

I assume every person on earth that uses a pump for recirc or whatnot have diptubes. So how is this not an issue with everyone?

 

[BrewBeemer]

I give up as I had issues with my first single tier keggle conversion all 3/8" with a March pump. A weldless system that went to 1/2" then got hold of a used Little Giant pump then all was well. Later I went with welded fitting all 1/2" ID nothing reduced and it worked out great then sold the complete system.
I still have bigger plans and collecting parts when i'm able, a brewery will rise again.

I first started out with small aquarium pumps, how weak and lame was that? All forward progress with a few failures I screwed up many times also I must admit.

 

[ghart999]

Well I do have a Little Giant pump so hopefully all will be well.

 

[Henrythe9th]

just scored a md5 hc pump and a md3-sc to go along with my little md2..
the md5 has 1" inlet so as of now, my dip tube,braid and kettle outlet are 3/4"..
already had a 3/4 coupler and SS valve on the kettle necked down to 1/2"

cant wait for next brew 1/8 HP whirl-pooling ya baby

 

[Captain_Bigelow]

After reading all 18 pages of this tread, I went ahead and placed an order. Looks like all the SS fittings are in stock right now.

 

[Commonwealth]

Wow, this is amazing I was getting ready to drop near $400 on More Beer's SS Quick Disconnects and figured there had to be something cheaper. Why do you need the street elbow? Couldn't you just make a barb out of the threads on these camlocks? Or is there not enough to grab?

 

[Commonwealth]

one more question, would the coupler side of this equation not have enough room to close the levers if you threaded it into a 3 pc ball valve?

 

[bendavanza]

Commonwealth
Some people like the fittings to have a 90˚ so the hose can go directly up or down and does not collapse from the weight. Some do not. Most will put the coupler on the hose side rather than the valve side.

 

[SweetSounds]

I got mine this week! They look great - and they lock up very tight.
I can't wait to get the rig together to try them out.

Even if they loosen up over time, I'll just buy a new $6.00 connector

 

[Brewmoor]

I got mine this week! They look great - and they lock up very tight.
I can't wait to get the rig together to try them out.

Even if they loosen up over time, I'll just buy a new $6.00 connector

No need to do that. If they loosen up all you should need to do is replace the rubber washer. That should only cost you about $.75

 

[Captain_Bigelow]

I placed an order Thursday night and just received them in the mail today (Saturday). Wow quick service.

They look great nice and well built. I haven't done a test for leaks yet, but they seem to fit well and not too difficult to disconnect. I am sure these fittings are going to make my brewing so much easier.

 

[willynilly]

I am getting the 3/4" ones for my new rig, 3/4" plumbing all around. TriClamps are like three handed connections... these will be much more user friendly than the Tris were.


These come with BunaN seals, which are not really rated for what we do (probably just fine) but you can get the silicone gaskets at McMaster for $8 each.