Agreed. If max flow for whirlpooling is desired though, every bit counts.
Stainless Camlocks review
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BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
That's the same part number as you can get at your local auto parts stores that have "O" rings, a good one vs those "Big Box" like Kragen's in my area.
Even a hardeware store should have "O" rings. I have a family run parts store in town that has way more items than Kragen's. A performance speed shop would be another place to check vs mail ordering as shipping costs for a $.19 item is crazy plus you can have it now.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
That .030" ID difference is 17.6% more cross sectional area, that adds up with each fitting in a single hose run especially dealing with the low pressures of the March pumps.
Except I really like silicone in this application.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
What's not to like, Buna-N Bier? I here ya besides silicone would be softer to compress plus easier on the cam locks over time.
On food grade hoses with 4" cam locks hauling vinagar for food processing plants I used a wax stick for cutting aluminum with a dry carbide blade. This wax applied at the cam surface area has made them lock much easier plus last 3 times longer. When your out over $230 a fitting times 4 hoses (8 end fittings) this adds up. I've used Chap-Stick in a pinch on these cam locks.
On food grade hoses with 4" cam locks hauling vinagar for food processing plants I used a wax stick for cutting aluminum with a dry carbide blade. This wax applied at the cam surface area has made them lock much easier plus last 3 times longer. When your out over $230 a fitting times 4 hoses (8 end fittings) this adds up. I've used Chap-Stick in a pinch on these cam locks.
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MacBruver
Well-Known Member
Did he say anything about when they'd have the 1/2" bits back in stock?
Party on, Garth.
user 40839
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Just as a note, this is the rate of flow coming out of a March pump with their standard 1/2" barb:
This was also compared to the flow through McMaster's venerable brass QDs on another rig (didn't get a photo of it - should have) and while it seemed like the camlock equipped hoses transferred 5 gallons in slightly less time, the slightly restricted barb was acting like a nozzle, and pushing out the water with a noticeable increase in force - which would only help in whirlpooling, right?
This was also compared to the flow through McMaster's venerable brass QDs on another rig (didn't get a photo of it - should have) and while it seemed like the camlock equipped hoses transferred 5 gallons in slightly less time, the slightly restricted barb was acting like a nozzle, and pushing out the water with a noticeable increase in force - which would only help in whirlpooling, right?
The way to measure the rate of flow is to time how long it takes to fill up a vessel with some known level marked. I mean, you could get that stream to go 12 feet if you restrict the end enough. The other thing is, you wouldn't want the restriction to occur until the very end of the whirlpool tubing inside the kettle, not at the disconnect.
I know I'm being nitpicky with these barbs. I admit it. I'm still going to sell the two barbed connectors I bought.
I know I'm being nitpicky with these barbs. I admit it. I'm still going to sell the two barbed connectors I bought.
I have two of the female side with barbs.
I did a test earlier today. Both tests used the March 809-HS mounted about 16" below my vessels. The input and output hose is plumbed into the march with high flow barbs (5/8" OD so no restriction at this point). The destination vessel was an ale pale sitting on top of my rig. The two tests I ran were:
1. Stock camlock barbed fittings on the ends of the tubing. This ran at 2.5 gallons per minute.
2. Male NPT version of the camlock into a 1/2" elbow, then another nipple as a makeshift barb. This ran 3.5 GPM.
If if you use disconnects at the pump side of both tubes, I don't know if the barbed couplings there would add more restriction or not. I'm sure for most folks the restricted flow is OK but I look at it as a compromise.
I did a test earlier today. Both tests used the March 809-HS mounted about 16" below my vessels. The input and output hose is plumbed into the march with high flow barbs (5/8" OD so no restriction at this point). The destination vessel was an ale pale sitting on top of my rig. The two tests I ran were:
1. Stock camlock barbed fittings on the ends of the tubing. This ran at 2.5 gallons per minute.
2. Male NPT version of the camlock into a 1/2" elbow, then another nipple as a makeshift barb. This ran 3.5 GPM.
If if you use disconnects at the pump side of both tubes, I don't know if the barbed couplings there would add more restriction or not. I'm sure for most folks the restricted flow is OK but I look at it as a compromise.
:fro:
Seeing as they are a rare collector's item that you can't buy right now.... I don't know, $10 for the pair including original seals and two silicone orings.
I wonder if they are light enough to qualify for first class mail. That'd be cheaper than the $5 priority flat rate.
I wonder if they are light enough to qualify for first class mail. That'd be cheaper than the $5 priority flat rate.
I must have gotten lucky. I ordered 4 more female barbs and got them in about 4 days.
This was about 3 weeks ago. I think they replenish their inventory pretty often.
If you are looking for fittings and the website says sold out. Just call them. They will tell you when they will be in and will let you place the order right then.
This was about 3 weeks ago. I think they replenish their inventory pretty often.
If you are looking for fittings and the website says sold out. Just call them. They will tell you when they will be in and will let you place the order right then.
I just talked to the guy and mentioned that I have video review of them going up on youtube and it's a shame that most of the parts are out of stock given the free advertising thing. He said he's really trying to get them ASAP and was wondering how many I think he should be stocking. I didn't really know what to say other than "a lot". I have to believe the price is going to go up soon given their popularity now.
Henrythe9th
Well-Known Member
Ordered mine last week knowing they where out of stock,, figured to price would go up. supply and demand..
received a mail and was told they would be back in stock around mid end of April I ordered 12 fittings
received a mail and was told they would be back in stock around mid end of April I ordered 12 fittings
That is a tough question to answer. When i ordered I bought almost 24 pieces. Then this next order was for 4 more. It is tough to know how many people usually need. Then how many people are going to ordered. HBT has definitely put the word out about these fittings.
dutch-brew
Well-Known Member
are these camlock fittings better than the tri-clovers (like from swagman's), or even, what's the difference?
are camlocks faster/easier?
are camlocks faster/easier?
Camlocks are far less expensive 
Tri-clover is a true sanitary fitting. Great to use on the cold side of brewing.
On the hot side, this isn't as important.
For me, camlocks are easier to use. I always end up dropping the gasket whenever I used tri-clovers. So I have to sanitize it all over again.
There are lots of people who love tri-clovers. They are NOT a single hand operation. In my mind, they require three hands.
Mind you, most of my experience with them was with the 1 1/2" variety.
Either way you go, stainless steel fittings will stand up to cleaning chemicals far better than brass.
Tri-clover is a true sanitary fitting. Great to use on the cold side of brewing.
On the hot side, this isn't as important.
For me, camlocks are easier to use. I always end up dropping the gasket whenever I used tri-clovers. So I have to sanitize it all over again.
There are lots of people who love tri-clovers. They are NOT a single hand operation. In my mind, they require three hands
.Mind you, most of my experience with them was with the 1 1/2" variety.
Either way you go, stainless steel fittings will stand up to cleaning chemicals far better than brass.
dutch-brew
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply Wayne..
I am trying to make up my mind one what to do to transfer all my liquids from one vessel to the other (and back).. And it seems i have a few decisions to make.. march vs LG, tri-clover vs camlock, how to whirlpool etc.
And i'm still learnign my new e-keggle at the same time.
I guess so far the only sure thing is the silicone tubing.
One more question though for you guys.. if all these fittings are two-handed, isn't there hot water/wort spilling everywhere? The tubes are all filled with liquid when you transfer the hose from one vessel to the other, right?
thanks,
fred
I am trying to make up my mind one what to do to transfer all my liquids from one vessel to the other (and back).. And it seems i have a few decisions to make.. march vs LG, tri-clover vs camlock, how to whirlpool etc.
And i'm still learnign my new e-keggle at the same time.
I guess so far the only sure thing is the silicone tubing.
One more question though for you guys.. if all these fittings are two-handed, isn't there hot water/wort spilling everywhere? The tubes are all filled with liquid when you transfer the hose from one vessel to the other, right?
thanks,
fred
Budzu
Well-Known Member
They just require you to develop technique in handling them. I make sure all valves on the hose I am changing are closed, then, with a hand towel held to the underside of the fitting, I remove the hose in such a way as the liquid is contained in the hose, then quickly empty the hose into the vessel and have a homebrew. It'll make more sense when you have them in front of you. Only a small bit will be spilled.
I have no idea why it's showing two windows....
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Fantastic video Bobby. You hit all the points. Thanks for doing the comparisons.
I am building a new system this summer. I believe I am going to go with the 3/4 fittings for this one. I assume the barbed fittings have the same restrictions. I am going to use the male npt version instead and thread hose onto it.
Again thank you for taking the time to think this out.
I am building a new system this summer. I believe I am going to go with the 3/4 fittings for this one. I assume the barbed fittings have the same restrictions. I am going to use the male npt version instead and thread hose onto it.
Again thank you for taking the time to think this out.
Boerderij_Kabouter
Well-Known Member
Great video as always Bobby. Those fittings look great!
bendavanza
Well-Known Member
Bobby
Thanks for posting the video, this clears up many questions I had about them. I think I would just grind the Male NPT fittings like you illustrated, great cost saving idea and it provides very little "step" in the ID. This will be a step up from pulling silicone on and off of barbs all day for me.
Thanks for posting the video, this clears up many questions I had about them. I think I would just grind the Male NPT fittings like you illustrated, great cost saving idea and it provides very little "step" in the ID. This will be a step up from pulling silicone on and off of barbs all day for me.
I think my favorite setup so far, which I just messed with after making the video, is the 1/2" male NPT female QD with a street elbow threaded on. You can grind those threads down into a smooth hose barb which is the most compact way to emulate the old mcmaster elbow connector. The bonus is, you don't "ruin" the camlock threads in case you have second thoughts.
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
What's the condition on the ID of the male end of the street elbow, rough cast or machined? My thinking if it's smooth is insert an expandable arbor then machine down the threads plus make shallow barbs on the lathe. This can also be done if they are rough cast just clean up by drilling out first then add the arbor.
Great idea, I just need to get a lathe now.
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