Stainless Camlocks review

[Bobby_M]

Yeah, you're right that .03 isn't that much smaller but it's not upgrade as far as flow goes to go down in size no matter what the difference. I can't get a whirlpool in my kettle with a march pump and the brass disconnects.

I'm more thinking of the difference between the camlock stock barb .33 and a 5/8" barb at .47". That's a difference of .14 which is more than 1/8".

 

[ghart999]

So bobby if you had to do it again, would you stick with the mcmaster brass ones you have now or go with the camlocks?

 

[Reelale]

Yeah, you're right that .03 isn't that much smaller but it's not upgrade as far as flow goes to go down in size no matter what the difference. I can't get a whirlpool in my kettle with a march pump and the brass disconnects.

I'm more thinking of the difference between the camlock stock barb .33 and a 5/8" barb at .47". That's a difference of .14 which is more than 1/8".

Wouldn't the whirpooling be more a function of pressure vs. volume? I'm kinda thinking it's the velocity of the liquid more than the volume that creates the greatest turbulence. I'm getting a pretty good whirlpool now with the brass disconnects, at least enough that I'm getting a pretty good cone in the center of my keggle. Just need to let it whirlpool long enough to capture the cold break too, I'm working on that. I'm running 1/2" copper line for my whirlpool return ala Jamils set-up. Still deciding...

 

[Bobby_M]

So bobby if you had to do it again, would you stick with the mcmaster brass ones you have now or go with the camlocks?

Keep in mind that I haven't installed the camlock parts onto my rig yet. I'm basing this on evaluating the the hose barb diameter. I would still buy the camlocks but I would highly consider figuring out a more robust hose connection over the stock barbed female fitting.

 

[Wayne1]

ghart99,

If you back through this thread a bit, you will find that I have replaced the McMaster-Carr fittings with camlocks, at a bit of a financial loss to me.

I would NOT go back to the MC fittings. With the same pumps and hoses, I do find increased flow and greater ease of use. It does take a short time to get used to the difference, but I have now brewed twice with the new fittings and I love them.

If you want to maximize the flow through the fittings, then go for the slightly larger hosebarb to NPT adapter and a threaded female fitting. I find no need to. I MAY get a couple of the threaded females and an elbow with a hose barb just to make a couple of connections easier.

The stainless will stand up to cleaning chemicals a lot better than the brass fittings. There is also no need to "pickle" the camlocks to remove lead as you should do with the brass fittings.

Bottom line, enjoy what you currently have. If you are looking for your first set of disconnects, stainless is usually a better, longer lasting material to use. The camlocks take getting used to, but won't make you have to wear a glove to change hoses.

If anyone in the Denver area wishes to take a look at the fittings or participate in a brew day using them, drop me a PM when the snow melts

 

[ghart999]

Wayne, thanks for the thoughts. These are my first disconnects as I have been just sliding tubing onto barbs. I am moving to a single tier system with direct fire mash and a single pump. Since I have not gone with any disconnects yet, I will go straight for the camlocks.

Also I did not know we're both from Denver. I'd love to take you up on your offer to come by when you brew the next time. I live in Aurora. Are you in a homebrew club out here?

 

[Hawgbranch]

I have brewed twice with my Camlocks and love them. They aren't as quick as a "quick disconnect" but quick enough for me and a LOT more affordable.

 

[Brewmoor]

ghart99, The camlocks take getting used to, but won't make you have to wear a glove to change hoses.

If anyone in the Denver area wishes to take a look at the fittings or participate in a brew day using them, drop me a PM when the snow melts

I agree they take a bit to get used to, but after you get it figured out it seems to be pretty fast. I can sorta do it with one hand. I push the hose in with my other at first then when the arms grab I can finish with one hand. I love them. I just ordered a few more a few weeks ago to make a few more utility hoses.


Wayne1: I am going to take you up on your offer. I will be in denver a bunch this summer.

 

[ghart999]

Well I went to order camlocks from proflow and they are out of stock on basically every piece I would use. Type C, Type F and now Type A too. All the 1/2" size. I was told that they would likely be out of stock for 6 weeks or more. Again, the HBT forum cleaned them out. I can't wait that long for them so I ordered the standard brass disconnects that many of us use from McMaster. Oh well. No bling for me.

 

[Wayne1]

Sorry to hear that your rig will be blingless

If you are still interested in the SS fittings, you should be able to sell your brass for half of what you paid for them. That should help to offset the $$$.

You are welcome to come over and fondle my fittings whenever you wish

 

[kmat123]

I'll buy your brass McMaster Carr fitting for 1/2 price

 

[bigjoe]

I like these but I have no point of reference other than these. I don't find a 2 handed operation all that difficult or distracting to be honest, but maybe i'm not switching them out as much as some. I don't find the flow to be restricted with the barbs either, but then again I've only used these. Ive considered buying aluminum just to see how sturdy they are compared to the stainless. They're much cheaper.

 

[ghart999]

Sorry to hear that your rig will be blingless

If you are still interested in the SS fittings, you should be able to sell your brass for half of what you paid for them. That should help to offset the $$$.

You are welcome to come over and fondle my fittings whenever you wish

I do wish to fondle your fittings. Keep me updated when you brew.....

 

[MacBruver]

Too bad they don't make these hoses in 1/2":

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1ZNG3?Pid=search

*DROOL*

 

[Brewmoor]

Too bad they don't make these hoses in 1/2":

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1ZNG3?Pid=search

*DROOL*

That would be very nice!

 

[kmat123]

Too bad they don't make these hoses in 1/2":

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1ZNG3?Pid=search

*DROOL*

Wow....$230 a pop!

 

[MrShake]

Too bad they don't make these hoses in 1/2":

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1ZNG3?Pid=search

*DROOL*

Not so nice at 230 bucks!

 

[MacBruver]

Yeah, but... just look at it!

They're really spendy... the first one that came up in google was a 20' x 3" hose that was a cool $1000. Yipes.

If there were a 1/2" version available, I'd assume that it would be cheaper. On top of that, I don't need any 10ft long. I just like the fact that there are no hose clamps to deal with, it's all one unit. Perhaps there's some kind of way to get those type of crimp-on hose connectors.

 

[ghart999]

Yeah, but... just look at it!

They're really spendy... the first one that came up in google was a 20' x 3" hose that was a cool $1000. Yipes.

If there were a 1/2" version available, I'd assume that it would be cheaper. On top of that, I don't need any 10ft long. I just like the fact that there are no hose clamps to deal with, it's all one unit. Perhaps there's some kind of way to get those type of crimp-on hose connectors.

What'sn wrong with hose clamps? I use oetiker clamps for everything. There permanent and don't screw up the hose at all.

 

[Bobby_M]

I plan to use an oversized barb and stretch the silicone over it. I doubt I'll even need a clamp.

 

[Brewmoor]

I used zip ties on my barbs. Seemed to do the trick. No leaks and it keeps bulky clamps out of the way when using the camlocks.

 

[Wayne1]

McMaster-Carr sells a similar hose. Orange outside cover. They do offer it in 1/2" ID for $6.00 a foot.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#brewers'-hose/=6girlp

I have used the same hose in 1.5" ID in quite a few brewpub systems.

It is rather stiff and gets even stiffer when cold. Serious PITA to use in a cold room.

 

[Budzu]

I plan to use an oversized barb and stretch the silicone over it. I doubt I'll even need a clamp.

I slipped 1/2" silicone tubing on these 1/2" pro-flo camlock females and they stay put, and don't leak air or liquid bubbles unless I fiddle them. No clamps of any kind. One reason I love silicone over the less stretchy thermoplastic.
However I'll probably end up clamping on some oetikers (sp?) or something soon.

 

[user 40839]

I suspect the concerns for wearing out the arms is based on how snug the fit starts out. I believe the seals are BunaN and they're pretty firm. I swapped one of them out for a silicone oring and the arms engage with much less force.

Bobby, what size o-ring did you use to replace the BunaN? Got a McMaster part number, per chance?

 

[Bobby_M]

They are the same ones I got as a weldless seal on a 1/2" bulkhead and I THINK they were #211. I tested it out today and it seals no problem.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.AS...hDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=9396K32

Cheaper for half the amount of rings: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-1356/Silicone-o-dsh-rings-Size-211/Detail

He also sells on ebay.

 

[user 40839]

They are the same ones I got as a weldless seal on a 1/2" bulkhead and I THINK they were #211. I tested it out today and it seals no problem.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.AS...hDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=9396K32

Cheaper for half the amount of rings: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-1356/Silicone-o-dsh-rings-Size-211/Detail

He also sells on ebay.

Thanks sir. Wanna make sure I get the right one.

Cause, well...

Y'know... last thing I wanna do is to blow out an o-ring.

 

[SankePankey]

For the 1/2" inchers I'm going to do npt, but I'm thinking of just going with the next size up (3/4") with barb instead of 1/2" npt and npt to barb for after the boil kettle and I want as few things to take apart to sanitize. Also prevents using a reducer from my 3/4" ball valve BK outlet.

Will 1/2" line stretch over a 3/4" barb? With some heat? After it's heated and fitted, is it a bi@tch to take apart and sanitize?

 

[Bobby_M]

If you've got 3/4" NPT valves then you can definitely go with the 3/4" camlocks. However, even the 1/2" kit is a little bulky. Yes, 1/2" silicone should make it over the 3/4" barb just fine if it's anything like the 1/2" barb.

For those of you who said you didn't notice any restriction with the small barb probably didn't try pumping without said restriction. I just tried the March pump with the the tubing stretched over the 1/2" NPT and holy cow, fire hose in comparison. If I can get around to it, I'll measure the GPM difference between the two.

 

[SankePankey]

Just spoke with the guy at Pro Flow. He had some specs and measured by hand the rest.

Here are the dimensions for both the 1/2" and 3/4".

1/2"
Barb ID- .32"
Barb OD- .49"
Barb OD bumps- .58"
Internal ID- .45"
Cam OD- .54"

3/4"
Barb ID- .55"
Barb OD- .75"
Barb OD bumps- .85"
Internal ID- .72"
Cam OD- .85"

I'm actually going to go with tri-clamps in stead of 3/4" cam locks but I thought you might be interested in the info. I'll still go with the 1/2" NPT cams though. Party on, Wayne.

 

[MrShake]

There may be a restriction on the 1/2 barb, but I've been doing wet tests all weekend and I'm impressed with the flow.... it will do 15 gallons in just a few minutes... more than fast enough for me.