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Stainless Camlocks review

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Thanks for the comments.

I built the diverter panel so I could have more options for hook ups and ease of cleaning. It was a dream to brew on with the brass QDs. I am hoping for a bit quicker liquid transfer with the camlocks.

Plus they just look cooler ;)

kettle_camlock.JPG



mlt_camlock.JPG
 
Wayne1- That's really slick. Are you going with a 90 degree bend at the hose? I used to use silicon hose with QD's, and that was something I always wished I did...it REALLY helps prevent kinking, and cuts down on the hose you need to buy.
 
What are peoples thoughts on the Polypropylene camlocks from Proflow? They are very cheap and i wouldn't think they would get as hot as the stainless. Any reason not to use them?
 
I placed an order for my first set of camlocks... AMAZING customer service at proflow!!

At first, the c-type were on back order... so I was waiting, realised I actually wanted more than I ordered, so I emailed them... they placed a second order, added it to the first order for no more shipping AND scrounged up all the parts and shipped them on monday!!!
 
What are peoples thoughts on the Polypropylene camlocks from Proflow? They are very cheap and i wouldn't think they would get as hot as the stainless. Any reason not to use them?

Polypropylene Couplings are manufactured from acid resistant 20% glass reinforced Polypropylene. Max temperature for PolyPropylene is 160 degrees farenheit.
 
Polypropylene has a melting point of 170 C/340 F and an upper use temperature of 135 C/275 F, according to the first website I found. I suspect the 160 F cited above is a combination of temperature and pressure. If the use pressure is lower than the rated pressure then the upper use temp will be higher. As the temp goes up, the physical properties of the plastic like tensile strength and rigidity are reduced. In our homebrewing applications the pressures are pretty low, so the use temp should be higher.

Give ProFlo a call and ask them about this, maybe the PP fittings are okay. Ask about food grade status too if it isn't listed on their site. Stainless is still better looking.
 
Thanks for the info, when i looked at the stainless ones they were out of stock on what i needed and i wanted to get them soon. So i just thought about those, i guess i could just use the Aluminum ones instead. I have an IC so i wouldn't be pumping boiling liquid through them.
 
Aluminum would be fine, esp if you boil them first to create an oxide layer. They are softer than stainless though and may wear out faster.
 
About the wear issue: Use vaseline or any petroleum jelly.

It's food grade ultra high molecular weight mineral oil.
That's all it is.
 
I suspect the concerns for wearing out the arms is based on how snug the fit starts out. I believe the seals are BunaN and they're pretty firm. I swapped one of them out for a silicone oring and the arms engage with much less force.

Of course the big question is if it still seals well and I'll answer that when I get them all installed on my rig. The stock configuration is probably rated at a much higher pressure than we need so getting them to seat with less force which still holding a seal is my priority.

Given my use of silicone tubing, I'm going to be using plain old 1/2" threaded nipples as hose barbs and I might grind the threads off the hose end to slightly reduce the OD a bit. I bought one of the camlock females with the barb and it's obscenely restrictive. I wouldn't recommend them at all.
 
I think you might be right about pressure. I think if your seal is the least bit snug it should not leak.

I have not been having problems with tension. I have found they sort of break in. After a few times using them they seem to be a bit easier to latch. The technique of pulling both levers evenly seems to do the trick for me.
 
I suspect the concerns for wearing out the arms is based on how snug the fit starts out. I believe the seals are BunaN and they're pretty firm. I swapped one of them out for a silicone oring and the arms engage with much less force.

Of course the big question is if it still seals well and I'll answer that when I get them all installed on my rig. The stock configuration is probably rated at a much higher pressure than we need so getting them to seat with less force which still holding a seal is my priority.

Given my use of silicone tubing, I'm going to be using plain old 1/2" threaded nipples as hose barbs and I might grind the threads off the hose end to slightly reduce the OD a bit. I bought one of the camlock females with the barb and it's obscenely restrictive. I wouldn't recommend them at all.

I didn't notice a massive restriction on the female barb set..... hrm
 
I didn't notice a massive restriction on the female barb set..... hrm

The ID of the barb is way smaller than it needs to be because if I recall, the largest OD of the barb (the actual barbed part) is 1/2" and the valleys are deeper than they need to be. If your tubing has stretch, as it should since one should use silicone, a 5/8" barb with 1/2" NPT thread would be best.
 
The ID of the barb is way smaller than it needs to be because if I recall, the largest OD of the barb (the actual barbed part) is 1/2" and the valleys are deeper than they need to be. If your tubing has stretch, as it should since one should use silicone, a 5/8" barb with 1/2" NPT thread would be best.

I'll have to look again, but I don't remember the restriction being major, nor did it concern me... but now you've got me thinkin!
 
I think you're right, a 1/2 male pipe thread to 5/8" hose barb threaded into the QD.
 
No, I haven't found a cheap source yet which is why I'm considering just using a regular 1/2" NPT nippe (2" long or so) and grinding the threads off the side the hose will go on. The OD at that point would be close to 3/4" which silicone tubing should easily stretch over.

If you're not opposed to using some brass, Lowes carries 1/2" NPT to 5/8" hose barb fittings in brass for a couple bucks each.
 
Eh, yep. Kinda pricey. Looking at the pictures on this thread, I don't see a huge constriction in the barb on the cheap ones. I'm using the brass 45 degree disconnects now and it looks like the ID on the camlocks is the same, maybe larger. I have no flow problems with the March 809 now.
 
You don't have to see a difference in the picture. The real stats as measured on my kitchen counter with a dial caliper.

ID of the camlock built in barb: .32"
ID of the male part of the mcmaster brass QD: .355"
ID of an aftermarket 1/2" hose barb I have: .385"
ID of a 5/8" barb: .47"
ID of a standard 1/2" pipe nipple: .56"

I also measured the OD of the camlock barb at .465" so if you wanted to maintain 1/16" wall thickness, you can't drill it out at all.

I was able to stretch 1/2" ID silicone tubing over 1/2" NPT with a little cursing. It might just work to clamp it onto the threads of the type B fitting.

This isn't to say you won't get enough flow or a flow you're happy with. I just don't want anyone to specifically "upgrade" from the mcmaster brass ones to the camlocks strictly to reduce restriction. You can't get there. I'm especially concerned about people seeing wayne's picture here and thinking, wow, so much better flow!

disconnects.JPG
 
I put them on my RIMS system and I like them quite a bit. Still a bit tricky barehanded when they're 170-212 degrees, but I suspect that holds true for most metals.

~M~
 
You don't have to see a difference in the picture. The real stats as measured on my kitchen counter with a dial caliper.

ID of the camlock built in barb: .32"
ID of the male part of the mcmaster brass QD: .355"
ID of an aftermarket 1/2" hose barb I have: .385"
ID of a 5/8" barb: .47"
ID of a standard 1/2" pipe nipple: .56"

I also measured the OD of the camlock barb at .465" so if you wanted to maintain 1/16" wall thickness, you can't drill it out at all.

I was able to stretch 1/2" ID silicone tubing over 1/2" NPT with a little cursing. It might just work to clamp it onto the threads of the type B fitting.

This isn't to say you won't get enough flow or a flow you're happy with. I just don't want anyone to specifically "upgrade" from the mcmaster brass ones to the camlocks strictly to reduce restriction. You can't get there. I'm especially concerned about people seeing wayne's picture here and thinking, wow, so much better flow!

I just saw your other post with the measurements. I still can't see where 3/100ths would make that much difference. My system ain't that balanced!
I am happy with the 45-degree brass ones I have, but those look so sweet, and they are stainless. I'm sooo undecided...
 
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