Stainless Camlocks review

[Yambor44]

Better??

 

[Yambor44]

Bobby, did you grind the elbows completely, or did you leave enough of the threads to act as a barb? I ground mine like the latter, and it took no time at all. Must be cheap Chinese stainless.

If you leave any threads at all, won't the wort just thread it's way in there as if the threads were all still there?

 

[Reelale]

If you leave any threads at all, won't the wort just thread it's way in there as if the threads were all still there?

I don't know, that's why I was asking. Yours look good smooth like that. Tubing fit ok?

 

[Yambor44]

I don't know, that's why I was asking. Yours look good smooth like that. Tubing fit ok?

Yeah, I was just throwing that out there in case he ever answers you too.

Tubing fits tight still. Easier to get on. I will add a white zip tie as before. I understand what Bobby and Brewbeemer wersaying about the threads and I am glad it was pointed out. Makes sense that you don't won't wort winding it's way thru the threads and then just sitting there until you take the whole thing apart to clean it (which would be a bigger pain in the long run than grinding).

Welp, 1 down and 10 to go!!

 

[BrewBeemer]

If you have a geared reduction motor or arbor around 200 rpm's installed the street elbow you'll have a means to rotate it then file away, think smart and work easy. A lathe will make most projects and life much easier.

 

[Randar]

I have a pretty powerful pump and my first run (no, I did not grind the thread, just stretched the tubing over the whole deal) the hose leaked on all of the output connections. Some hose clamps fixed this issue, as did dialing back the flow a hair...

Are people grinding the treads to reduce risk of the hose splitting or ripping or just to make a better seal? Don't necessarily want to take everything apart if I don't have to.

 

[Yambor44]

I have a pretty powerful pump and my first run (no, I did not grind the thread, just stretched the tubing over the whole deal) the hose leaked on all of the output connections. Some hose clamps fixed this issue, as did dialing back the flow a hair...

Are people grinding the treads to reduce risk of the hose splitting or ripping or just to make a better seal? Don't necessarily want to take everything apart if I don't have to.

I'm in the middle of grinding mine now. Not fun, but probably worth it. The reason for grinding is so the wort doesn't "thread' it's way up to the point of the clamp/wire tie and leave gunkies in there. Although....seems to me a hose barb "may" allow the same to happen.

 

[Randar]

I'm in the middle of grinding mine now. Not fun, but probably worth it. The reason for grinding is so the wort doesn't "thread' it's way up to the point of the clamp/wire tie and leave gunkies in there. Although....seems to me a hose barb "may" allow the same to happen.

Hose clamp takes care of that by forcing the hose material into the thread cavities. I didn't have any leaks on inlet-side connections without hose clamps.

I am more worried about outlet side blowouts and/or hose splitting from being stretched too tightly. Has anyone had this happen or is this just a baseless fear?

 

[Yambor44]

Hose clamp takes care of that by forcing the hose material into the thread cavities. I didn't have any leaks on inlet-side connections without hose clamps.

I am more worried about outlet side blowouts and/or hose splitting from being stretched too tightly. Has anyone had this happen or is this just a baseless fear?

Damn....where were you 5 fittings ago??

 

[limulus]

Received my box-o-camlocks and replacement o-rings from Bargain Fittings today. Next weekend, I'll brew with them. Oh, and I ordered them on Friday and received them today, Monday.

 

[wildwest450]

Why not just use these? Who want's to grind a pile of stainless fittings down?

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

 

[Budzu]

Why not just use these? Who want's to grind a pile of stainless fittings down?

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

Totally. I just bought a pile of these to use with female-female NPT camlocks. This is the ideal way to utilize these fittings with 1/2" hose. Thanks Derrin for paying attention to brewers!

 

[BrewBeemer]

Why not just use these? Who want's to grind a pile of stainless fittings down?

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html

Even using 0.400" as an example vs 0.500" ID that is only 64% of cross sectional area of 0.500" fittings.
About time the proper fittings became available for a full flowing 0.500" ID system. Now if Camlock can come out with 0.500" ID M & F barb fittings?

 

[wildwest450]

Already covered? How well do these rotate when coupled? I love my 90° brass disconnects. If I switch I would go with the high flow barbs to street ell to coupler. Before I drop a buttload of cash, will this work well? Seems like it would be a little "chunky"?

 

[Budzu]

Already covered? How well do these rotate when coupled? I love my 90° brass disconnects. If I switch I would go with the high flow barbs to street ell to coupler. Before I drop a buttload of cash, will this work well? Seems like it would be a little "chunky"?

I will let you know how they fit together when they come in. I won't be using elbows or anything extra, but I have some elbows hanging around so I can test fit them for you if I remember and take a pic. Does sound like they would be pretty heavy.. which may not be a bad thing.

 

[Randar]

Already covered? How well do these rotate when coupled? I love my 90° brass disconnects. If I switch I would go with the high flow barbs to street ell to coupler. Before I drop a buttload of cash, will this work well? Seems like it would be a little "chunky"?

How much do you need them to rotate? They rotate a little but I would bet that reduces the lifespan of the o-rings.

 

[wildwest450]

I will let you know how they fit together when they come in. I won't be using elbows or anything extra, but I have some elbows hanging around so I can test fit them for you if I remember and take a pic. Does sound like they would be pretty heavy.. which may not be a bad thing.

Cool, I still need to invite myself over sometime and check out your sweet system.

 

[wildwest450]

How much do you need them to rotate? They rotate a little but I would bet that reduces the lifespan of the o-rings.

Not like an owl's head, but a little. I just like the fact that my 90's now, never put any stress on my tubing, maybe i'm fretting over nothing, and their not necessary. They would be nice for my herms coil, it keeps the tubing short and neat looking.


Like so...

 

[Randar]

Ok, but why do you need to rotate them once they are in place? I would presume you could set them up to connect exactly as shown with the 90 degree elbows and have no need for anything other than minor swiveling to adjust them.

 

[wildwest450]

Ok, but why do you need to rotate them once they are in place? I would presume you could set them up to connect exactly as shown with the 90 degree elbows and have no need for anything other than minor swiveling to adjust them.

Exactly, I was expecting some swiveling with disassembling/cleaning and what not. I have never used these and didn't know how much they would take.

 

[Randar]

Ahhhh, gotcha. They can move a little but like I said, I wouldn't go crazy. In most cases the tubing will probably flex more than the fitting once connected, but they can move a little.

 

[Yorg]

OK, so lets say you can't buy these in stainless (though you probably could if you looked, though I haven't) - you must be unwaveringly committed to the look to choose grinding over an oversized barb.
Or am I missing something.
See pics.
As you can see, the inside diameter of the 5/8" barb is about the inside diameter of the tubing itself. You can see a comparison with a regular 1/2" barb. Don't take the assembly literally, you have choices about what elbow you use and sex of the camlock.

 

[wildwest450]

OK, so lets say you can't buy these in stainless (though you probably could if you looked, though I haven't)

http://www.brewershardware.com/1-2-Threaded-Hose-Barb-TFB58.html



.

 

[Yambor44]

I am having a challenge with air locks in my pumps since switching to the camlocks. However, only when chilling with the CFC Chillus Convellutus. I have it temporarily on it's side (horizontal), could this be the problem? Does it HAVE to be vertical as the mounting bracket would indicate?

 

[BrewBeemer]

My thinking is to place the pump head, speaking SS head in any position that best fits your needs on your rig even if the discharge inside the pump head is not at the 12 O-clock position. At the 12 O-clock position Tig a 1/4" stainless needle valve that's flush to inside the pump to not impede pump output.
The output side with a compression fitting add a short piece of SS tubing bent into a "U" that discharges pionting down allowing one add a sample cup or tubing to vent the air and prime the pump.

 

[Yambor44]

My thinking is to place the pump head, speaking SS head in any position that best fits your needs on your rig even if the discharge inside the pump head is not at the 12 O-clock position. At the 12 O-clock position Tig a 1/4" stainless needle valve that's flush to inside the pump to not impede pump output.
The output side with a compression fitting add a short piece of SS tubing bent into a "U" that discharges pionting down allowing one add a sample cup or tubing to vent the air and prime the pump.

I think I'm too buzzed at the moment to get this.

I will come back to it later!

 

[trigger]

So I just got my camlocks from Bargain Fittings today. I won't be able to comment on their utility for a while until my new electric brewery is built, but I do want to say that Bargain Fittings ROCKS:rockin::rockin::rockin:

They packaged them very well, shipped them lightning fast, and INCLUDED THE ORINGs. I'm sorry, but the o-rings blew me away. Little stuff like that goes a long way in my book. I said this over in the electric forum too, but I will be bff's with BF.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I was a bit uncomfortable stretching the 1/2" silicone hose over a 1/2" npt fitting because of how tight it is even with the threads ground down. So here's what I did:

I bought some 316ss 3/8" X 1/2" reducing nipples from buyfittingsonline ($3.30/each)...

The ID is larger than the barbed camlock as received...

I started by "turning" down the 3/8" to about .60" to remove the threads and make a snug fit for the 1/2" silicone (and be able to use the oetiker clamps I have).
I "turned" them by threading them on a carriage bolt, chucking it in a drill press at 300rpm, and using a angle grinder and file to remove the material and get them fairly smooth. This took less than 5 minutes each...

Last but not least, I bored the ID of each out to .470...

End result...

 

[BargainFittings]

Nice.

I better order some more 1/2 x 3/8 reducing nipples.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Nice.

I better order some more 1/2 x 3/8 reducing nipples.

Thanks Wayne...

It was pretty simple and I'm happy with the results.

Stock up.

Ed