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I bought the steam slayer from brew hardware, I cut a hole and did a weldless TC port. I just keep it capped when I'm not using it. I brew in my Houston garage and it was worth every penny to have that, especially in the summer. My boil off rate was about the same when I was at 75% power with an open lid with my new set point at 50%.

Ive been on a 8 month hiatus, brewing a Japanese lager and Orange Cream Milkshake IPA this weekend, ready to get that pipeline back up!
thanks for this! can you share a pic of what the lid you use looks like with the steam slayer?
 
Not gunna lie. I'm a little disappointed with the internals of this thing. Wagos and all that tubing!? I mean I get it but I figured the inner workings would be a little more...umm...deliberate.
 
Not gunna lie. I'm a little disappointed with the internals of this thing. Wagos and all that tubing!? I mean I get it but I figured the inner workings would be a little more...umm...deliberate.

I saw somebody guess that the inside contained a network of SS tubing. I guess that would look better, but if that was the case I'd probably still have a clogged tube.

If I get a free afternoon sometime, I'll do the rest of the disassembly and see what the power/element control looks like.
 
I saw somebody guess that the inside contained a network of SS tubing. I guess that would look better, but if that was the case I'd probably still have a clogged tube.

If I get a free afternoon sometime, I'll do the rest of the disassembly and see what the power/element control looks like.

Right. From a functional standpoint I get it, I guess I just had higher hopes. The guts just aren't as pretty as the exterior.
 
Here is what I have
thanks for this! can you share a pic of what the lid you use looks like with the steam slayer?
here you go. No issues with the weight.

I wish I would have cut the hole another inch towards the middle but oh well.

The 10 gallon lid apparently fits the SVBS, I wanted to do that one as my steam lid, but it was out of stock at the time.
 

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You need another hole in that lid so that you can drop the hops in. I made the hole on mine to fit a kilner jar lid ( they have a rubber gasket) so they fit well.
 
You need another hole in that lid so that you can drop the hops in. I made the hole on mine to fit a kilner jar lid ( they have a rubber gasket) so they fit well.
Good idea. I thought about a hop port, but it's pretty easy to just lift the lid for a few seconds. I mostly
do lagers, if I did a lot of hop additions I might sing a different tune!
 
Good idea. I thought about a hop port, but it's pretty easy to just lift the lid for a few seconds. I mostly
do lagers, if I did a lot of hop additions I might sing a different tune!
I like it so I can look in as well! But there's no doubt for me the lid and condenser is a game changer.
 
Here is what I have

here you go. No issues with the weight.

I wish I would have cut the hole another inch towards the middle but oh well.

The 10 gallon lid apparently fits the SVBS, I wanted to do that one as my steam lid, but it was out of stock at the time.
what type of tool did you use to make the hole? also, does steam escape the small 'inlet' the lid has in it?
 
what type of tool did you use to make the hole? also, does steam escape the small 'inlet' the lid has in it?
I haven't rigged up my steam slayer on my SVBS yet but I do use it on my Anvil Foundry 6.5 which has a hole in the lid for the recirculation tube. It doesn't affect the steam slayer at all.
 
what type of tool did you use to make the hole? also, does steam escape the small 'inlet' the lid has in it?
Just a carbide hole saw for the size I needed.

Nope that rubber piece doesn't let any steam escape. I thought it would and was the reason I wanted to get the solid 10 gal lid, but I haven't had an issues with that.
 
I did a kettle sour over the last two days, waiting to start the boil. Will say it worked great, will probably end up replacing all of the tubing once I'm done to prevent any contamination.
 
Pictures of the internal tubing above I think. Surely a boil recirculate and PBW will kill off any souring bacteria, otherwise what would be the point of boiling a kettle sour before ferment with a normal yeast?
 
I've made the tough decision to sell mine. I want to clean it up first and I can't do that right now... I only have one good arm following shoulder surgery last week. But by late fall, early winter I'll get it ready for a new home.
 
Maybe get some help with figuring grain water ratio, strike volume, etc. Having trouble with mash efficiency.
In my last brew I mashed 19lbs @ 1.71 in approximately 8 gallons + .15 quart/ lb to compensate for grain absorption. Still not able to hit predicted pre boil gravity, etc despite following general mash rest protocol @ 153 for 60 min. Even with extended to 80 min total best I was able to reach was 1.048. Need advice on what I am not getting. View recipe here on brewers friend "Big Brown Dog "
 
In my last brew I mashed 19lbs @ 1.71 in approximately 8 gallons + .15 quart/ lb to compensate for grain absorption. Still not able to hit predicted pre boil gravity, etc despite following general mash rest protocol @ 153 for 60 min. Even with extended to 80 min total best I was able to reach was 1.048. Need advice on what I am not getting. View recipe here on brewers friend "Big Brown Dog "
Do you use software? By tweaking and dialing in your equipment profile you will be able to correct those issues. SS Brewtech even supplies very accurate equipment profiles for users of Beermith and I haven't had any problems hitting my gravity or volumes.
 
Yes. I use brewers friend on this platform and have been tweaking. Looking for someone using this platform and SVBS willing to converse by phone.
 

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