Ss Brewtech Brite Tank Review and Photos

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Joe_CraftBeerTraders

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I think every home brewers dream is to own a commercial brewery at some point. For most of us, its a dream that will never become a reality. But what about having a commercial home brew setup? That's doable with the first ever brite tank at a home brew level from Ss Brewing Technologies.


What is a brite tank? A brite tank AKA serving tank or secondary tank, is a vessel in which beer is placed after primary fermentation and filtering. Usually set to 32 degrees Fahrenheit, its used to clarify, carbonate and further mature a beer. Its also use for storing beer ready for kegging, bottling, canning and packaging and is engineered to be cold, hold pressure and be easy to clean. A brite tank can also serve as a serving vessel.

A brite tank vessel has never been seen at a home brew level and as innovative home brewers we have had to come up with ways to perform a brite tanks functions with the equipment we have available. Most home brewers modify kegs to mimic some features of a brite tank (we did in our setup) but I think its important to point out that a brite tank and keg are two completely different vessels serving two completely different functions. A keg is a serving vessel and designed only to be a serving vessel. Brite tanks are carbonation, clarifying and storage vessel with a secondary function as a serving vessel. They have different functions in and purposes in a brewery. I think it is important to make that distinction clear upfront because as home brewers we have this mentality that "I can just use a keg". You can modify a keg to perform similar functions as a brite tank, and we did in our setup, but after running a few beers through the brite tank we really got to see the benefits of a true brite tank. So lets take a look at the features of the SsBrewtech Brite Tank and compare it to a keg and take a look at the differences.

Volume & Dimensions

First thing to look at is volume and dimensions. Brite tanks purpose are to be storage tanks for clarifying and maturation. The Ss Brewtech Brite tank has a 15" diameter and holds 10 gallons of beer. Your standard corny keg has a 9" diameter and holds 5 gallons of beer. The obvious, 10 gallons is more than 5 gallons which means less equipment used and less to clean and sterilize. The larger diameter of the brite tank has a benefit as well. As the brite beer is being stored/carbed at low temperatures, the beer will continue to clear resulting in some more fall out and trub to gather on the bottom. With the larger diameter, the trub will be a thinner layer than thicker trub layer within the smaller diameter keg. So whats the benefit of that? Looking at the inside of the keg, the pickup tube is fairly close to the bottom of the keg. The thicker layer of trub would be more prone to be picked up during pours, but we will touch on that a bit more later. The other feature that is a big separator from a keg is the site glass. The brite tank has an external site glass with volume etchings at 1 gallon intervals. So in a closed state when pressure transferring into the brite tank you can watch your volume levels accurately. This is not possible with a keg, you have no visibility into the keg in a closed state so you cannot tell if you are short or about to over fill.

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Carbonating

Carbonation is the primary function of a brite tank. Beer is carbonated and clarified before it is packaged in kegs, bottles, cans etc. Majority of home brewers use a keg to carbonate because that is the equipment we have. Kegs are designed to be serving vessels and not to carbonate a beer, however, we have found ways to carbonate a beer in a keg. There are two ways we usually carb, the "low and slow" method which takes 5-7 days to fully carbonate a keg. The other method is burst carbing which is setting the pressure higher (20-30psi) which takes about 2 days. There are downsides to the burst carbing method from within a keg. You risk carb bite, which is, as described, a bite at the end which has a metallic/soapy flavor to it, and with lack of accuracy, a simply over carbonated beer. The proper way of carbonating beer is with the use of a carb stone. Ss Brewtechs brite tank has a built in carb stone and, just like commercial systems, is designed for proper burst carbing. It also has a pressure gauge mounted on the top 6" TC next to the pressure release valve which gives you the ability to monitor head pressure. So how does this all work together? Well exactly how commercial breweries do it, you set the inlet pressure of the carb stone to around 30 PSI, then monitor the head pressure until the desired carb limit is reached, typically 12-13 PSI. Then turn down the CO2 to a reasonable serve pressures. This process cuts carbonation time down significantly being fully carb in under 24 hours.


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Temperature Control

Temperature control is arguably the most important variable for your finished product. Brite tanks are designed to be around 32 degrees Fahrenheit at which you can carbonate beer efficiently as well as cold condition a beer to clarify it. When using a keg to clarify and carbonate, the keg would have to be put into a chest freezer with a temperature controller that is set for 32 Degrees. The temp probe is placed inside the chest freezer and measure the temperature of the air surrounding the keg. So with a keg you do not know the temperature of the beer, you know the temperature of the environment around the beer. Ss Brewtechs brite tank has a built in thermowell with an LCD temperature display which allows you to measure the temperature of the beer within the vessel. Definitely more accurate than the temperature around the vessel. Ss Brewtech also has an optional internal chiller coil and neoprene jacket which would allow this vessel to be a stand alone. You wouldn't need to put it into a chest freezer, just connect it a chilling source such as a cooler with ice water or a more fancy glycol chiller. The downside is the the chiller coil and temperature controller are not included, they are additional purchases. You also would have to modify a cooler as a chilling source or splurge on a glycol chiller. If you dont want to spend the extra money just drop it into your chest freezer like you would do with the keg. Having that type of configurability is a nice to have.


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Pressure Transfer

Oxidation is a beers worst enemy. Pressure transferring beer from the fermenter into a brite tank / keg is the best way to reduce oxidation. Using the Ss Brewtech brite tank you connect to the butterfly valve and fill the vessel from the bottom up. To reduce oxidation you can spray a layer of Carbon Dioxide into the brite tank. As you fill from the bottom up the beer will push the oxygen out of the vessel and only touch the CO2. The same concept can be performed with a keg. You would connect to the out post and pressure transfer beer down the dip tube filling from the bottom up. The major difference between the brite tank and the keg is the efficiency of transfer. The Ss Brewtech brite tank has a larger center drain than the dip tube of a keg. This allows for a faster transfer giving you more time to enjoy a beer.


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Sampling

Part of making good beer is tasting it along the brewing process to ensure quality. The Ss Brewtech brite tank makes it nice an easy to sample your beer with a built in 2pc ball valve. You have the ability to pull samples from a keg as well using a picnic tap, however, with a picnic tap you will end up with a little bit off loss from what is left in the line after sample. It also is something you have to clean. So while you can pull samples from both vessels, the Ss Brewtech brite tank is more convenient.

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Serving

Serving is the primary function of a keg and, due to its versatility, a brite tanks secondary function. Remember, in a brewing process the beer goes from fermenter, to a brite tank where its carbed and stored then packaged into serving vessels like a keg. Serving from a corny keg you would have it within a fridge and either picnic tap or draft system. The beer is drawn up the dip tube from the bottom of the keg, out through the poppet valve and into the tap. If you try to purpose a keg to clarify beer (which is a brite tanks function) depending on the type of beer you brewed (like an IPA) you can end up with trub on the bottom of the keg and as mentioned before, with the narrower diameter vessel you end up with a thicker trub layer. Here's the issue, the pickup tube is only about 1/4" off the bottom of the keg and has a diameter of around 5/16". When dispensing beer, in order to get the volume of beer out of the keg at the flow rate designed, the velocity of the beer into the pickup tube is increased because of the narrow diameter pickup tube. This means increased flow and turbulence in an area where a thicker layer of trub is. I cant tell you how many times ive clogged my dip tube or post with a nice hoppy IPA. You ideally want to have already clarified beer in a keg ready to serve. Because brite tanks are so versatile they can be used as a serving vessel. They are already at serving temperatures, the contents of the tank are carbonated and under pressure and is already clarified. Its function at this point can be looked at as a large keg. But lets compare serving from the brite tank to serving from a keg that was used to do brite tank functions like above. Ss Brewtechs Brite tank has a center drain at the bottom of the 15" wide dished bottom. The ticker diameter vessel allows for a thinner layer of trub on the bottom. Also, the larger diameter center drain means a slower exit velocity and less turbulence around the trub reducing the amount dispensed. You dont have to worry about poppet valves or clogged dip tubes. Lastly, with the site glass you can actually see how much beer is left within the vessel. You dont have to pick up the keg and slosh the contents around to get an estimate of how much is left. Not to mention you just stirred up all the trub at the bottom.





Cleaning

Brewers are really just professional cleaners, or so it seems. A keg in my opinion has to be one of the most painful pieces of equipment to clean. From the popet values and posts, inside the dip tube, trying to reach into the keg and get the bottom, its just a pain. The Ss Brewtech brite tank is so much easier to clean. It has a 6" opening at the top of the vessel making it super easy for you to reach in and scrub down the walls. You also do not have to worry about flipping over the keg to dump out the dirty water and potentially leaving some behind which if left alone could cause mold or bacteria. The Ss BrewTech brite tank has a center drain at the bottom of the dished bottom. Just open the valve and let it drain dry. You can also take it to the next level and use a CIP. Ss Brewtech offers a reducer for the 6" TC opening to attach their CIP. Throw some caustic in 150 degree Farhenheit water, turn on the pump and sit back and relax for 5 minutes while the brite tank cleans itself. Automation is such an amazing thing. There is only one downside with using the CIP on the brite tank and thats the site glass. While it just needs a rinse, sometimes the CIP doesnt really get in there. So you might have to just remove it and clean it quick.





We saw a lot of benefits and nice to haves with the Ss Brewtech brite tank when upgrading from your keg setup. There were also a couple of downsides in our opinion. First thing was handles, the brite tank is designed to be a stand alone vessel which means its not really designed for transport. Trying to move a full 10gal brite tank is a bit difficult. Ss Brewtech does offer optional handles at an additional cost. But again, the concept of this vessel is to be placed somewhere and used, not transported around like a keg. The chiller coil and FTS are optional and additional money. So in order to not use a fridge and get the vessel into a stand alone state you need to buy the coil. When put in a chest freezer it takes up about the same space as 2 cornies but access to the ports becomes a bit more difficult. The last thing is the weldless fittings. While we never had an issue with them, they have potential to be leak points. You have to pressure test the vessel before filling to ensure no leaks. Something you dont really have to worry about on the kegs, but everyone does anyway. If there is a leak when its full, you are kind of SOL.


Overall Impression

Our overall impression of the Ss Brewtech Brite tank is actually a lot better than we originally thought it would be. Once we got out of the mind set that its "just a glorified keg" we really got to see the vessel for what it is, a Brite tank. This really shines when its stand alone connected to a FTS and cooling source. Everything about this tank is designed for ease of use and function. And honestly, its the little things that make this great. The site glass, sample port, carb stone, thermowell, pressure gauge and 6" TC lid. Combine all of these little features make a big impact on taking your beer to the next level.

http://blog.craftbeertraders.com/ssbrewtech-brite-tank/
 
Nice review and for some folks this might well have it's purpose... I think it's still a niche product within a niche market but SS Brewtech do make some nice equipment. One minor niggle with your review though... you can't put a 'layer of CO2 down' in the bottom and expect no oxidation; yes, CO2 is heavier than air, but that doesn't stop it from thoroughly mixing with the air in the tank. You'd have to do something like fill the thing to the brim with water and then push that out with CO2 to get an (almost) oxygen-free environment.
 
Nice review and for some folks this might well have it's purpose... I think it's still a niche product within a niche market but SS Brewtech do make some nice equipment. One minor niggle with your review though... you can't put a 'layer of CO2 down' in the bottom and expect no oxidation; yes, CO2 is heavier than air, but that doesn't stop it from thoroughly mixing with the air in the tank. You'd have to do something like fill the thing to the brim with water and then push that out with CO2 to get an (almost) oxygen-free environment.

I agree i think it is niche but definitely a nice addition if you are going the professional home brew route. As for the oxidation, by putting down a layer of CO2 you are providing less of a risk for oxidation, not elimination. and you wouldnt have to spray down the entire vessel to remove all air. Most commercial breweries do the same thing, they put a blanket of co2 in their vessels. Either way, filling from the bottom up with a blanket of co2 in the vessel will reduce oxidation and thats all that i was mentioning
 
There's no such thing as a CO2 'blanket' - that's a complete myth. If there were, we'd all be dead as the CO2 in our atmosphere would be at ground level. There are sooooo many threads on HBT that talk about the oxidation risks of not purging tanks properly - heck even a FULL corny has to be purged under a good deal of pressure about 10 times to reduce the levels of oxygen reasonably.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=565834
 
"i always thought that dogs laid eggs... i learned something today"[peter griffin voice]

Thanks for that info, learned something new today. :mug:
 
I know the post is stale but the CO2 blanket thing is definitely real, not a "myth". Pure CO2 is heavier than O2 and tends to stack below O2 when pumped into a closed vessel. The thickness and effectiveness of the blanket against oxidation may vary yes, but the physics are real. As far as CO2 in our atmosphere goes, yes it is also heavier than pure O2. The air you breath every day has lots of CO2 in it. This phenomenon is essential to photosynthesis. Without it all the plants that convert CO2 to O2 wouldn't have much to work with and we wouldn't have much O2 to breathe. You're comparing a micro scale CO2 to O2 weight comparison to a macro scale atmospheric system that has wind, an eco-system, plant life... geez I'm rambling, you get the picture. CO2 blankets are not a myth. PS. I love SS Brewtech gear and the original post is great!
 
NO2 and BR2 and more reactive than CO2 so mix faster. Do the same experiment with CO2 then get back to me! Plus it does TAKE TIME to diffuse. Plus those were not sealed vessels, removing the cover setup an air current. Purging with CO2 will displace most o the O2 and since it is then closed off it is a closed system until you pump the beer in.
 
NO2 and BR2 and more reactive than CO2 so mix faster. Do the same experiment with CO2 then get back to me! Plus it does TAKE TIME to diffuse. Plus those were not sealed vessels, removing the cover setup an air current. Purging with CO2 will displace most o the O2 and since it is then closed off it is a closed system until you pump the beer in.

There actually was a pretty good video showing Co2 mixing as well in a thread on this topic started a couple years ago. im not sure how they colored it to see it in the video lab experiment but after a period of time the co2 mixed evenly with any gas used in the experiment including oxygen... for a short period it remained on the bottom though.
 
NO2 and BR2 and more reactive than CO2 so mix faster. Do the same experiment with CO2 then get back to me! Plus it does TAKE TIME to diffuse. Plus those were not sealed vessels, removing the cover setup an air current. Purging with CO2 will displace most o the O2 and since it is then closed off it is a closed system until you pump the beer in.


The portion of the video that showed the bromine diffusing was not showing a reaction. It was showing diffusion. Yes - it takes time for gases to diffuse. The rate is proportional to the gas's molecular weight. That's why the bromine took so long to diffuse. Since bromine is almost twice as heavy as carbon dioxide, the rate of diffusion for CO2 will be almost 40% faster. Gases diffuse at a rate that is inversely proportional to the square root of their mass.

If you pull the lid off of a fermenter, you set up an air current. Air is introduced into the head space of the fermenter. The mixture of CO2 and air will not magically separate into a layer of CO2 on top of the beer with the layer of air resting on the CO2. That's not how gases work. That was clearly shown in the linked video.

Purging is a different topic. I agree that if a vessel is purged properly of air using CO2 and then sealed, the contents of the vessel are protected by the CO2. The protective barrier is the vessel (glass, plastic, metal). The vessel ensures that other gases will not diffuse into the CO2.
 
Cool bling but I disagree that a brite tank is different than a keg for home brewing purposes. A corny keg can do the same exact thing a brite tank can do. Ferment then filter into a corny keg. Attach the CO2 line and put it in a fridge. Store there for as long as you want. Everything a brite tank can do. If you want to clarify even more, pour off the first pint and filter into another keg (as you would with a brite tank).

Brite tanks are just really big kegs. Commercial breweries use brite tanks because they only need 1 vessel per batch. They can use kegs just the same but they would need a lot of them. For home brewers, we can use kegs as brite tanks because we brew the exact amount the keg holds. Home brewers that brew over 15.5 gallons (full keg), a brite tank may be something they would need or they would have to split it into two or more kegs. Though this looks like it is 10 gallons so even someone that brews 15 gallons could use a sanke keg instead of this.

I do agree that the main purpose of a brite tank is to store, carb and clarify while a kegs main purpose is to carb and serve, that doesn't mean a keg can't clarify and store. Just my two cents...cool buy though.
 
H22lude that's not true at all. A bright tank is a storage vessel a keg is a serving vessel. They serve completely different functions in the brewing process. A brite tank is not a just a large keg.
 
I'm with h22lude on this one... a keg absolutely can act as both a storage and serving vessel at the typical homebrew size. Likewise brite tanks can and often are used as serving vessels in places like brewpubs. With very little modification, both vessels can be used for either purpose.
 
H22lude that's not true at all. A bright tank is a storage vessel a keg is a serving vessel. They serve completely different functions in the brewing process. A brite tank is not a just a large keg.

You are thinking linear. Think outside the small box.

Let me put it in the form of a question...

A brite tank's main purpose is for post fermentation storage, clarification and carbing. You can also serve from it.

A keg's main purpose is to carbonate and serve.

Can you store beer in a keg? Yes
Can you store beer in a keg at 32° to help with clarification? Yes
Can you clear beer from a keg? Yes, jump it from one keg to another after conditioning.

Now let me ask you a question, what does a brite tank do that a keg can't do?
 
My wife bought me one of these for Christmas. I can't keep it pressurized for the life of me. I've tried sealing and re-sealing, but it still leaks.
 
Reviving this thread as I've been shopping around the interwebs looking at one barrel options for fermentation. My opinion, they'd really have something special if they made a unitank instead of a brite tank. Anybody try primary fermentation in this thing yet and see what happens?

And I agree with the others and see no benefit of a brite tank for the average home brewer that pumps out 5 gallon batches.

Edit: this is the only 1 barrel unitank I've been able to find.
http://www.gwkent.com/pico-fermenter.html
 
By George, I must be blind.

In your defense it is listed under the nano section of their website not the home brewing section.

I am guessing the increased price is due to all the various attachments, clamps etc the unitank comes with.
 
By George, I must be blind. Thanks for pointing that out. Wonder why it's so much more expensive than the brite?

It appears to come with all the bells and whistles. pretty nice piece of kit it looks like. think I may be grabbing one at some point in the near future!
 
Bringing this back from the dead. I have one of these and love the potential it has but I'm failing to fully utilize it. Full disclosure, I bought it to help me with my carbing problems. It affects 1 out of 7 brewers, I have been told (;p) but for the life of me I cannot carb my beer correctly. I'm not sure what the issue is but I'll explain my method in hopes that someone out there can help.

I complete the primary stage of fermenting, allow the beer to sit and once its at the point to transfer complete that with a closed system transfer to the brite tank. I only brew 5 gal batches so at the end I have about 6 gals of beer going into the 10 gal brite tank. The carb stone is set at the ~3.5-4gal marking so the beer at least covers the carb stone. I follow the burst carb method by burst carbing at 25-30psi for at least 24hrs then lower the head pressure to where I want the beer to be via co2 volumes and adjust the CO2 tank accordingly. I then allow it to sit for an additional week. When I go to sample of course due to the pressure all I get is mostly foam, I get that. However when I go to bottle using 10ft of 3/16ID beer tubing with a beer gun I fill beers with a head pressure in the tank of 4psi. Pour a glass and pours perfectly. Bottle beers and let them sit over night, next day I pop one to find that the beer seems flat, very little carbonation in the beer, little to no "psst" when opening the bottle. I'm not sure where I go wrong. I know the bottles are sealed because I tip them upside down to make sure there isn't a leak and I received a proper seal.

Is my under carbonating issue due to not allowing the beer to carb enough, even though I follow the burst carb and then the temp/psi method for at least a week after burst carbing? or is it due to not having enough beer in the tank to completely fill it even though the SS guys say "as long as the stone is covered you should be good"? or something else?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
I'm surprised 1 in 7 has a problem with carbing since "set it and forget it" gives perfect results everytime. Get the settings right and it'll always go to equlibrium. I suspect your capper. When you first fill the bottle and cap it, it's essentially at atm pressure, so when you turn the bottle over, it doesn't leak. In time co2 is liberated from the beer and the pressure inside the bottle increases, if your not properly capped, the gas may leak out. Try this to verify. Take one of your freshly bottled beers and turn it upside down and shake it.. does it leak? Bottle a few in a flip top Grolsh bottle. Same problem?
 
I know the post is stale but the CO2 blanket thing is definitely real, not a "myth". Pure CO2 is heavier than O2 and tends to stack below O2 when pumped into a closed vessel. The thickness and effectiveness of the blanket against oxidation may vary yes, but the physics are real. As far as CO2 in our atmosphere goes, yes it is also heavier than pure O2. The air you breath every day has lots of CO2 in it. This phenomenon is essential to photosynthesis. Without it all the plants that convert CO2 to O2 wouldn't have much to work with and we wouldn't have much O2 to breathe. You're comparing a micro scale CO2 to O2 weight comparison to a macro scale atmospheric system that has wind, an eco-system, plant life... geez I'm rambling, you get the picture. CO2 blankets are not a myth. PS. I love SS Brewtech gear and the original post is great!
I had a servicecall at praxair the other day and asked them about this... Thier response was that for a very short time the co2 would remain at the lowest point if introduced there in a gentle manner but within a couple minutes it would be mixed with the other gases in the tank... I assume also this is why the beergun directions has one cap asap after purging the bottle with co2 and filling. so yeah the co2 blanket "as many homebrewers understand it" is a myth.

Like many other brewing myths that are not as easily disproven, this one will continue to have believers and be around for a long time I think. I once thought myself that squeezing a bag of grain at the end of the mash would introduce tannins because thats what I read (Local hbs still states it in their partial mash kits).. however it seems real world testing of this says otherwise. sorry to also bring a dead topic from thise thread back up but like I said I got a chance to pick some brains and thought Id share what the gas experts had to say.
 
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I think every home brewers dream is to own a commercial brewery at some point. For most of us, its a dream that will never become a reality. But what about having a commercial home brew setup? That's doable with the first ever brite tank at a home brew level from Ss Brewing Technologies.


What is a brite tank? A brite tank AKA serving tank or secondary tank, is a vessel in which beer is placed after primary fermentation and filtering. Usually set to 32 degrees Fahrenheit, its used to clarify, carbonate and further mature a beer. Its also use for storing beer ready for kegging, bottling, canning and packaging and is engineered to be cold, hold pressure and be easy to clean. A brite tank can also serve as a serving vessel.

A brite tank vessel has never been seen at a home brew level and as innovative home brewers we have had to come up with ways to perform a brite tanks functions with the equipment we have available. Most home brewers modify kegs to mimic some features of a brite tank (we did in our setup) but I think its important to point out that a brite tank and keg are two completely different vessels serving two completely different functions. A keg is a serving vessel and designed only to be a serving vessel. Brite tanks are carbonation, clarifying and storage vessel with a secondary function as a serving vessel. They have different functions in and purposes in a brewery. I think it is important to make that distinction clear upfront because as home brewers we have this mentality that "I can just use a keg". You can modify a keg to perform similar functions as a brite tank, and we did in our setup, but after running a few beers through the brite tank we really got to see the benefits of a true brite tank. So lets take a look at the features of the SsBrewtech Brite Tank and compare it to a keg and take a look at the differences.

Volume & Dimensions

First thing to look at is volume and dimensions. Brite tanks purpose are to be storage tanks for clarifying and maturation. The Ss Brewtech Brite tank has a 15" diameter and holds 10 gallons of beer. Your standard corny keg has a 9" diameter and holds 5 gallons of beer. The obvious, 10 gallons is more than 5 gallons which means less equipment used and less to clean and sterilize. The larger diameter of the brite tank has a benefit as well. As the brite beer is being stored/carbed at low temperatures, the beer will continue to clear resulting in some more fall out and trub to gather on the bottom. With the larger diameter, the trub will be a thinner layer than thicker trub layer within the smaller diameter keg. So whats the benefit of that? Looking at the inside of the keg, the pickup tube is fairly close to the bottom of the keg. The thicker layer of trub would be more prone to be picked up during pours, but we will touch on that a bit more later. The other feature that is a big separator from a keg is the site glass. The brite tank has an external site glass with volume etchings at 1 gallon intervals. So in a closed state when pressure transferring into the brite tank you can watch your volume levels accurately. This is not possible with a keg, you have no visibility into the keg in a closed state so you cannot tell if you are short or about to over fill.

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Carbonating

Carbonation is the primary function of a brite tank. Beer is carbonated and clarified before it is packaged in kegs, bottles, cans etc. Majority of home brewers use a keg to carbonate because that is the equipment we have. Kegs are designed to be serving vessels and not to carbonate a beer, however, we have found ways to carbonate a beer in a keg. There are two ways we usually carb, the "low and slow" method which takes 5-7 days to fully carbonate a keg. The other method is burst carbing which is setting the pressure higher (20-30psi) which takes about 2 days. There are downsides to the burst carbing method from within a keg. You risk carb bite, which is, as described, a bite at the end which has a metallic/soapy flavor to it, and with lack of accuracy, a simply over carbonated beer. The proper way of carbonating beer is with the use of a carb stone. Ss Brewtechs brite tank has a built in carb stone and, just like commercial systems, is designed for proper burst carbing. It also has a pressure gauge mounted on the top 6" TC next to the pressure release valve which gives you the ability to monitor head pressure. So how does this all work together? Well exactly how commercial breweries do it, you set the inlet pressure of the carb stone to around 30 PSI, then monitor the head pressure until the desired carb limit is reached, typically 12-13 PSI. Then turn down the CO2 to a reasonable serve pressures. This process cuts carbonation time down significantly being fully carb in under 24 hours.


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Temperature Control

Temperature control is arguably the most important variable for your finished product. Brite tanks are designed to be around 32 degrees Fahrenheit at which you can carbonate beer efficiently as well as cold condition a beer to clarify it. When using a keg to clarify and carbonate, the keg would have to be put into a chest freezer with a temperature controller that is set for 32 Degrees. The temp probe is placed inside the chest freezer and measure the temperature of the air surrounding the keg. So with a keg you do not know the temperature of the beer, you know the temperature of the environment around the beer. Ss Brewtechs brite tank has a built in thermowell with an LCD temperature display which allows you to measure the temperature of the beer within the vessel. Definitely more accurate than the temperature around the vessel. Ss Brewtech also has an optional internal chiller coil and neoprene jacket which would allow this vessel to be a stand alone. You wouldn't need to put it into a chest freezer, just connect it a chilling source such as a cooler with ice water or a more fancy glycol chiller. The downside is the the chiller coil and temperature controller are not included, they are additional purchases. You also would have to modify a cooler as a chilling source or splurge on a glycol chiller. If you dont want to spend the extra money just drop it into your chest freezer like you would do with the keg. Having that type of configurability is a nice to have.


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Pressure Transfer

Oxidation is a beers worst enemy. Pressure transferring beer from the fermenter into a brite tank / keg is the best way to reduce oxidation. Using the Ss Brewtech brite tank you connect to the butterfly valve and fill the vessel from the bottom up. To reduce oxidation you can spray a layer of Carbon Dioxide into the brite tank. As you fill from the bottom up the beer will push the oxygen out of the vessel and only touch the CO2. The same concept can be performed with a keg. You would connect to the out post and pressure transfer beer down the dip tube filling from the bottom up. The major difference between the brite tank and the keg is the efficiency of transfer. The Ss Brewtech brite tank has a larger center drain than the dip tube of a keg. This allows for a faster transfer giving you more time to enjoy a beer.


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Sampling

Part of making good beer is tasting it along the brewing process to ensure quality. The Ss Brewtech brite tank makes it nice an easy to sample your beer with a built in 2pc ball valve. You have the ability to pull samples from a keg as well using a picnic tap, however, with a picnic tap you will end up with a little bit off loss from what is left in the line after sample. It also is something you have to clean. So while you can pull samples from both vessels, the Ss Brewtech brite tank is more convenient.

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Serving

Serving is the primary function of a keg and, due to its versatility, a brite tanks secondary function. Remember, in a brewing process the beer goes from fermenter, to a brite tank where its carbed and stored then packaged into serving vessels like a keg. Serving from a corny keg you would have it within a fridge and either picnic tap or draft system. The beer is drawn up the dip tube from the bottom of the keg, out through the poppet valve and into the tap. If you try to purpose a keg to clarify beer (which is a brite tanks function) depending on the type of beer you brewed (like an IPA) you can end up with trub on the bottom of the keg and as mentioned before, with the narrower diameter vessel you end up with a thicker trub layer. Here's the issue, the pickup tube is only about 1/4" off the bottom of the keg and has a diameter of around 5/16". When dispensing beer, in order to get the volume of beer out of the keg at the flow rate designed, the velocity of the beer into the pickup tube is increased because of the narrow diameter pickup tube. This means increased flow and turbulence in an area where a thicker layer of trub is. I cant tell you how many times ive clogged my dip tube or post with a nice hoppy IPA. You ideally want to have already clarified beer in a keg ready to serve. Because brite tanks are so versatile they can be used as a serving vessel. They are already at serving temperatures, the contents of the tank are carbonated and under pressure and is already clarified. Its function at this point can be looked at as a large keg. But lets compare serving from the brite tank to serving from a keg that was used to do brite tank functions like above. Ss Brewtechs Brite tank has a center drain at the bottom of the 15" wide dished bottom. The ticker diameter vessel allows for a thinner layer of trub on the bottom. Also, the larger diameter center drain means a slower exit velocity and less turbulence around the trub reducing the amount dispensed. You dont have to worry about poppet valves or clogged dip tubes. Lastly, with the site glass you can actually see how much beer is left within the vessel. You dont have to pick up the keg and slosh the contents around to get an estimate of how much is left. Not to mention you just stirred up all the trub at the bottom.





Cleaning

Brewers are really just professional cleaners, or so it seems. A keg in my opinion has to be one of the most painful pieces of equipment to clean. From the popet values and posts, inside the dip tube, trying to reach into the keg and get the bottom, its just a pain. The Ss Brewtech brite tank is so much easier to clean. It has a 6" opening at the top of the vessel making it super easy for you to reach in and scrub down the walls. You also do not have to worry about flipping over the keg to dump out the dirty water and potentially leaving some behind which if left alone could cause mold or bacteria. The Ss BrewTech brite tank has a center drain at the bottom of the dished bottom. Just open the valve and let it drain dry. You can also take it to the next level and use a CIP. Ss Brewtech offers a reducer for the 6" TC opening to attach their CIP. Throw some caustic in 150 degree Farhenheit water, turn on the pump and sit back and relax for 5 minutes while the brite tank cleans itself. Automation is such an amazing thing. There is only one downside with using the CIP on the brite tank and thats the site glass. While it just needs a rinse, sometimes the CIP doesnt really get in there. So you might have to just remove it and clean it quick.





We saw a lot of benefits and nice to haves with the Ss Brewtech brite tank when upgrading from your keg setup. There were also a couple of downsides in our opinion. First thing was handles, the brite tank is designed to be a stand alone vessel which means its not really designed for transport. Trying to move a full 10gal brite tank is a bit difficult. Ss Brewtech does offer optional handles at an additional cost. But again, the concept of this vessel is to be placed somewhere and used, not transported around like a keg. The chiller coil and FTS are optional and additional money. So in order to not use a fridge and get the vessel into a stand alone state you need to buy the coil. When put in a chest freezer it takes up about the same space as 2 cornies but access to the ports becomes a bit more difficult. The last thing is the weldless fittings. While we never had an issue with them, they have potential to be leak points. You have to pressure test the vessel before filling to ensure no leaks. Something you dont really have to worry about on the kegs, but everyone does anyway. If there is a leak when its full, you are kind of SOL.


Overall Impression

Our overall impression of the Ss Brewtech Brite tank is actually a lot better than we originally thought it would be. Once we got out of the mind set that its "just a glorified keg" we really got to see the vessel for what it is, a Brite tank. This really shines when its stand alone connected to a FTS and cooling source. Everything about this tank is designed for ease of use and function. And honestly, its the little things that make this great. The site glass, sample port, carb stone, thermowell, pressure gauge and 6" TC lid. Combine all of these little features make a big impact on taking your beer to the next level.

http://blog.craftbeertraders.com/ssbrewtech-brite-tank/

I just got the same one. If I set the regulator at 15 PSI to account for wetting delta, the lid mount gauge reads the same (equilibrium) in only 10 minutes, so not sure how one would know when to turn down the regulator since that is when it’s supposed to be carbonated. Maybe I’m doing something wrong.
 
At our Brew Pub (Anvil Brewing) we use one of these 1 BBL Brite Tanks. We keep it in our walk-in cooler so beer is at 38 degrees or so. Normal for the beer to be ready to keg 24 hours after transfer from Secondary Fermenter. My question is how are you guys/gals cooling the Brite tank and beer? If you check a CO2 table of carbonation, it will show that the colder the beer the faster the carbonation will take place. We first tried it at 'room' temp and that did not work at all. Just wondering.
 
If you check a CO2 table of carbonation, it will show that the colder the beer the faster the carbonation will take place.
A carbonation table tells you that the lower the temperature is the lower the equilibrium pressure for a given CO2 content will be. It tells you absolutely nothing about how fast the beer absorbs or releases gases to reach that equilibrium.

As with most reactions absorbtion and release of CO2 proceeds faster the higher the temperature as CO2 molecules (or any other gas, for that matter) diffuse faster at higher temperatures.
 
How are folks filling and purging these brites? I just ordered one.

My idea is that you'd fill it with a no-rinse sanitizer after cleaning, push out with CO2 and then push beer from the bottom up from your fermenter. The only issue I can think of is that the pressure inside of the brite is going to eventually equalize and you're going to need to put more head pressure on the fermenter than it's built for.
 
I do all of that to the T plus I open the purge valve at the top to allow for the pressure to release. You will still have the blanket of CO2 on top of the beer. Then pressurize as normal
 
You'd need a spunding valve to constantly release gas thus mantaining a pressure differential between receiving and source vessel. Completely depressurizing the brite tank on the other hand would promote foaming and cause oxygen ingress. A CO2 blanket does not exist anywhere on Earth so I would not necessarily rely on something that does not exist to protect the beer from oxidation. ;)
 
I own two of these and love them. I get they are not for everyone but they do serve a purpose. I have a Bock going into one this weekend where it will sit hooked to my glycol unit for 5-6 weeks to lager. It is a great tool. It is a ninch thing and a nice to have. They are well made. You can make damn good beer without them for sure.

I think we all are different when it comes to this stuff. I personally am not looking for ways to shorten my brew days or keep things simple. I like the steps in the process and really working to perfect the craft. I also love all the toys this hobby opens up for me. Some folks are looking for something completely different out of the hobby and don't want to or can't spend the money on toys. There are no wrong ways to go about it.

Cheers!
 
H22lude that's not true at all. A bright tank is a storage vessel a keg is a serving vessel. They serve completely different functions in the brewing process. A brite tank is not a just a large keg.
A brite tank is also considered a serving vessel in most breweries... in fact serving "vat to tap" which many brewpubs and breweries do to avoid brand labeling approval on every beer they make requires they serve directly from brite tanks. At my brewpub we do both and besides the ability to add a carbonation stone to the brite tank one can substitute for the other in function just fine.. in fact if it wasnt for the cost involved in needing 12 brite tanks to avoid serving from kegs alltogether we would be using them to serve from like most breweries or brewpubs not distributing. The key here is a britetanks main advantage is that it is normally sized to a much larger bulk size than kegs... as pointed out on a homebrewing scale they really do lose most of thier distingiushing practial advantage if your kegs are the same size as the brite. kind of like the advantages of kegging vs bottling.
 
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A carbonation table tells you that the lower the temperature is the lower the equilibrium pressure for a given CO2 content will be. It tells you absolutely nothing about how fast the beer absorbs or releases gases to reach that equilibrium.

As with most reactions absorbtion and release of CO2 proceeds faster the higher the temperature as CO2 molecules (or any other gas, for that matter) diffuse faster at higher temperatures.
I dont know what hairs your trying to split here But for the sake of this conversation and the intended homebrewers (not scientists) having it, I understood Don in E texas's statement to be correct. Your first statement more or less states the same thing. The equalibrium pressure has a direct correlation to both the amount of co2 absorbed and the speed at which its done.. The beer does in fact reach the proper carbonation level much faster at lower temps and for that reason we do the same thing as far as using our brites in a 38 degree cooler and carbonate there vs room temp.
 
The beer does in fact reach the proper carbonation level much faster at lower temps and for that reason we do the same thing as far as using our brites in a 38 degree cooler and carbonate there vs room temp.
No it doesn't but I'm done with this pointless debate. I've given you pointers to the relevant information, if you don't want to be educated but prefer to cling to your erroneous beliefs which are basically based on the fact that you're all saying the same (incorrect) thing then I say go for it, I couldn't care less.
By the way what you're saying implies that beer will lose its carbonation faster at colder temperatures than at warmer temps. Anybody, even a complete layperson, who's let beer sit in a glass for a while knows the opposite is true but if you're so sure about that then I'm happy for you.
 
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An interesting discovery I made in regards to the co2 "blanket" theory... I had a brite tank at the pub (3bbl) that had been drained of beer and the pressure relieved via the valve on the top being completely opened and left open for 5 days in the cooler.. because I did not have time it sat this way until I went to clean it .. after doing a water rinse to remove solids (dryhopped beer) that could effect the sprayball I removed the top to check the inside for such particles and to check the top shoulder area of the tank and when I stuck my head inside I did get a good Co2 burn in my nose telling me that even though the 3/8 valve was wide open to the atmosphere for days the tank retained a large amount of co2 inside... I am not sure why or how long it would have taken for this to dissipate. I am also under the understanding that the co2 blanket mixes and equalizes with any surrounding gas in short order even though c02 is heavier... I do however wonder about how long this actually takes to occur now without any type of breeze or disturbance of the atmosphere.
 
No it doesn't but I'm done with this pointless debate. I've given you pointers to the relevant information, if you don't want to be educated but prefer to cling to your erroneous beliefs which are basically based on the fact that you're all saying the same (incorrect) thing then I say go for it, I couldn't care less.
By the way what you're saying implies that beer will lose its carbonation faster at colder temperatures than at warmer temps. Anybody, even a complete layperson, who's let beer sit in a glass for a while knows the opposite is true but if you're so sure about that then I'm happy for you.
let me clarify here... the vessels I use only allow up to 15psi pressure when I carbonate beer in them it occurs faster at colder temps than at room temp..
here is a better explanation I found elsewhere here.



[IMG alt="MrFoodScientist"]https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/data/avatars/m/74/74321.jpg?1352490209[/IMG]


MrFoodScientist
Well-Known Member





To further illustrate what Bobby's saying.

Keg System A- 12psi at 37°F (equilibrium at 2.62 volumes)

Compared to:

Keg System B- 24psi at 58°F (equilibrium at 2.62 volumes)

System B would theoretically have a greater rate of carbonation due to warmer temperatures (meaning more molecular movement and interaction).

If you were to carbonate at the same pressure at two different temperatures, the lower temperature would reach the equilibrium point of the higher temperature sooner (even though the lower temperature would continue to carbonate). This is why it is perceived that cold temperatures carbonate faster. If I remember right, Bobby has some nice graphs of carbonation rates in This Thread that might help explain it as well.

And to echo Yooper and Skiffy: yeah, bottle condition is a different beast and depends on yeast activity, which is always faster at warmer temperatures. Which is probably what you're thinking about when you say "Everybody says the opposite."
 
Sorry if I snapped at you but I'm really tired of this debate and prefer not to participate any more. Have a cold one...
 
An interesting discovery I made in regards to the co2 "blanket" theory... I had a brite tank at the pub (3bbl) that had been drained of beer and the pressure relieved via the valve on the top being completely opened and left open for 5 days in the cooler.. because I did not have time it sat this way until I went to clean it .. after doing a water rinse to remove solids (dryhopped beer) that could effect the sprayball I removed the top to check the inside for such particles and to check the top shoulder area of the tank and when I stuck my head inside I did get a good Co2 burn in my nose telling me that even though the 3/8 valve was wide open to the atmosphere for days the tank retained a large amount of co2 inside... I am not sure why or how long it would have taken for this to dissipate. I am also under the understanding that the co2 blanket mixes and equalizes with any surrounding gas in short order even though c02 is heavier... I do however wonder about how long this actually takes to occur now without any type of breeze or disturbance of the atmosphere.
The mixing of gases via diffusion begins as soon as the vessel is opened to the outside. How fast it takes for the vessel to be filled with normal atmosphere depends on many factors such as geometry of the vessel, size of the opening and lastly on temperature as diffusion speed is directly proportional to temperature. With a large vessel and a small orifice I'd expect it to take possibly several weeks for that to happen but the point is that if you're going to store beer in the vessel then you'll want to avoid any oxygen ingress as even very low oxygen levels will cause significant cold-side oxidation. You only achieve that by never letting the receiving vessel completely depressurize.
In your example you were still able to perceive the presence of CO2 by breathing it in (which I don't recommend, BTW...) but since as little as 10% CO2 can give you a sharp burning sensation if you take a full, deep breath then that test is quite meaningless. Even if you still had 50% CO2 and 50% air that would be an unacceptable oxygen level for your beer. Same goes for the "lighter test". Lighter fluid requires a minimum of 16% oxygen to ignite so even if your lighter were to extinguish its flame when placed in a container you could have as much as 15% O2 in there and that would be totally unacceptable.
Lastly, a gas being "heavier" or "lighter" only affects the rate of diffusion as heavier atoms/molecules move slower at the same temperature. It has nothing to do with heavier gases sinking and lighter gases floating as to get any sort of lifting force you'd need actual displacement of the atmosphere and you only get that with a solid body. Gases are not solid and will not displace surrounding gases but will readily mix with them. You also will never get any type of stratification, you can only have a temporary gradient as diffusion works its magic until concentrations are uniformly equalized. This means that some O2 will get to the surface of your beer really quickly, it will just take some time for it to reach maximum concentration but exposure will begin to happen pretty quickly.
 
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