SS Brewtech Brew Bucket

[Razorback_Jack]

Thinking about getting one of these on Amazon. The Brewmaster’s version even has a little thermometer. I think I’m sold on this, but a question... Can I fit a regular 3-piece airlock stem in the top? I have piping attached to my airlock stem for blow-off, and wonder if I will have to change my method with this unit.

Also, this doesn’t have a way of dumping trub correct? The valve is too high, at the top of the cone. So if I’m correct the trub will stay throughout the fermentation process, which I don’t really mind, and then I can rotate the stem to draw clean beer to my keg.

Insight is greatly appreciated!

Jackson

 

[WBB]

Didn’t you try going to the source? It has a bung hole for an airlock and the ball valve is for gravity samples and transferring. If you want to save some dough look at the anvil. Same features.

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/brew-buckets/products/brewbucket

 

[Keith81]

It comes with a stopper you can put your airlock in for the blow off. There is also a separately sold elbow barb which fits 1/2" ID vinyl tubing. I have one and it works well if height is a concern.

You are correct that there is no trub dump so the yeast can't be removed before kegging. This hasn't been a problem in my experience as the diptube pointed down to get the most beer out as possible it has always been well above the yeast cake.

 

[Razorback_Jack]

Ah.

Didn’t you try going to the source? It has a bung hole for an airlock and the ball valve is for gravity samples and transferring. If you want to save some dough look at the anvil. Same features.

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/brew-buckets/products/brewbucket

Ah. I did go there before but I didn’t see the pictures. Clearly shows a hole for airlock. Thanks!

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Thinking about getting one of these on Amazon. The Brewmaster’s version even has a little thermometer. I think I’m sold on this, but a question... Can I fit a regular 3-piece airlock stem in the top? I have piping attached to my airlock stem for blow-off, and wonder if I will have to change my method with this unit.

Also, this doesn’t have a way of dumping trub correct? The valve is too high, at the top of the cone. So if I’m correct the trub will stay throughout the fermentation process, which I don’t really mind, and then I can rotate the stem to draw clean beer to my keg.

Insight is greatly appreciated!

Jackson

IMO, the valve is useless. I've removed it and don't use it.

Simply transfer the primary into a secondary and leave behind the trub. (Sorry, but I really don't want to hear all the HBT's with nothing better to do than criticize a secondary.)

Yes, the 3 piece airlock works. Use the included rubber stopper.

Perhaps, consider http://www.deltabrewingsystems.com/products/the-fermtank-8-gallon

 

[brew703]

I have one. Don't use an airlock. I added a thremowell and use a blow off tube.

As for the valve it sucks. That's the one drawback about the Brew Bucket.
The racking arm that fits on the inside has two cheap ass o rings that never seem to stay in place. If used keg lube but doesnt really help. I need to order a set of replacement orings but may try to find a source that carries a better quality one that what's used.

Someone mentioned the Anvil. I had two but sent both back due to manufacturing issues on the inside. Scratches deep enough that your fingernail would get caught in. Cost wise it's a nice fermenter.

Try looking at the line of Kegland fermenters. Those can handle 35 psi and can carbonate and do pressure transfers.

 

[ChuckS1]

Dont understand the hate for the valve. Mine works great. Doesn't leak and easily lets me transfer, trub-free, to my keg. The rubber feet did wear out and I need to replace those.

 

[mattdee1]

Can anybody elaborate on what makes the valve “useless?”

 

[Jtvann]

The valve is fine. I had two brew buckets for a few years. I never had to replace either o-ring. It is a weldless valve. Dont over tighten. A regular airlock works just fine. I found with almost all my beers, its safer to just use a blow off and not airlocks. All a blow off is is a super sized air lock that won't get clogged.

My advise is to not get the BME version. All you get is an extra hole to plug. I upgraded mine with the ftss2 system. When you do that, the BME becomes even more useless as a thermowell is included with the new lid.

Ball valves always have hate on the cold side. They need to be disassembled and cleaned then sanitized. As long as you know that and do it, theres nothing wrong with it.

The brew bucket is a great fermenter that can be made into a fairly advanced fermenter. The only thing that it cannot do compared to a full blown unitank is trub dump and fully pressurize.

 

[magee_b]

The rubber feet did wear out and I need to replace those.

I bought these rubber feet - slip right over the existing ones and have been solid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016IFTQZ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[ChuckS1]

I bought these rubber feet - slip right over the existing ones and have been solid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016IFTQZ0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! Just ordered a set.

 

[brew703]

Can anybody elaborate on what makes the valve “useless?”

Everyone has their own opinion. For me, if the nut holding the valve isn't tightened just right it will leak- either over-tightened or under. The orings on the racking arm suck. I've been through three sets in 2 years. they stretch and if not careful when inserted the racking arm they will come off.

Yes, you can get by without using the racking arm but if you dry hop loose in the keg most times you will have a clog. It's happened to me on more than one occasion so now I use a hop bag.

Outside of that the fermenter is great.

 

[MikeCo]

The valve on my brew bucket works great.

 

[Spartan1979]

I've had no issues with the ball valve either (except for the time I assembled it incorrectly). I did buy slightly thicker orings for it and that eliminated the issue of leaks/overtightening. Yeah, the rings on the racking arm don't last long as they get stretched. I bought 100 of these for $4.00 plus shipping:

https://www.theoringstore.com/store...product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1787

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Can anybody elaborate on what makes the valve “useless?”

Valve is too narrow (settled yeast, trub will easily clog). Valve leaks. IMO, a real PITA. I replaced all of them with the SS plug, gasket and nut.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I've had no issues with the ball valve either (except for the time I assembled it incorrectly). I did buy slightly thicker orings for it and that eliminated the issue of leaks/overtightening. Yeah, the rings on the racking arm don't last long as they get stretched. I bought 100 of these for $4.00 plus shipping:

https://www.theoringstore.com/store...product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1787

"The most commonly used elastomer for sealing products. Nitrile, also known as Buna-N or NBR, is a copolymer of Butadiene and Acrylonitirle. It has a temperature range of -40F to +250F and is exceptionally resistant to petroleum base oils and hydrocarbon fuels. Nitrile materials also exhibit excellent tensile strength and abrasion resistance properties. The material performs well with most dilute acids, silicone oils and lubricants and in water applications. It is not recommended for use with ketones, aromatic hydrocarbons and phosphate ester hydraulic fluids. More than 50% of the Orings sold are Nitrile Orings, commonly used in hydraulic/pneumatic motors, cylinders, pumps and valves."

Doesn't appear these are food grade, but it doesn't matter since the o ring is on the outside of the brew bucket.

 

[Spartan1979]

"The most commonly used elastomer for sealing products. Nitrile, also known as Buna-N or NBR, is a copolymer of Butadiene and Acrylonitirle. It has a temperature range of -40F to +250F and is exceptionally resistant to petroleum base oils and hydrocarbon fuels. Nitrile materials also exhibit excellent tensile strength and abrasion resistance properties. The material performs well with most dilute acids, silicone oils and lubricants and in water applications. It is not recommended for use with ketones, aromatic hydrocarbons and phosphate ester hydraulic fluids. More than 50% of the Orings sold are Nitrile Orings, commonly used in hydraulic/pneumatic motors, cylinders, pumps and valves."

Doesn't appear these are food grade, but it doesn't matter since the o ring is on the outside of the brew bucket.

What material would be food grade? They sell orings in other materials.