SS Braid Thickness

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

smoothlarryhughes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2010
Messages
117
Reaction score
1
Location
Collegeville
I'm in the process of building my first mash tun out of a 52 quart coleman xtreme cooler. I was curious as to what everyone thinks about what is the best thickness for the stainless steel braid. 3/4" washing machine supply line or 1/2" toilet supply line, or does it matter? Also if i use a 3/4 inch do i need to run coiled copper wire into it to keep it from crushing under the mash.

Another question i have is, do i have to do anything to the brass, and is brass safe to use?

appreciate any help.
 
I use a 1/2 inch, and it works excellently. I would be concerned about crushing with the 3/4 in, and I don't really see any benefit to it.

Brass can be used safely in mash tun applications; just check for corrosion occasionally (in case of a shoddy product; it shouldn't corrode) and make sure the parts don't have any solder on them.
 
I have been using a 3/4" braid for about a year and a half with no crushing issues. Though, I don't know if you better flow with 3/4" or not.
 
Get a 3/4" SS water heater braid, it fits easily over the coupler inside the cooler, I have a 52qt Coleman Xtreme, and the fitting kit from Bargain Fittings, works great!

Like Cpt kirks says no issues with crushing, even with 21 lbs of grain.
 
I use a 3/4 inch, however I have it on a tee so there is no real way (that I can see in my mind anyway) it could fully crush to the point where it gets plugged up.
 
IME the good better best or small medium large scenario is, toilet/sink, dishwasher/washer, water heater. I have used the two smaller sizes w/ good results, but for around 12 bucks the water heater braids seem very substantial and worth the extra few bucks. Also don't assume you need a real long braid, IMO anything over a foot is pointless, especially if batching.
 
Get a 3/4" SS water heater braid, it fits easily over the coupler inside the cooler, I have a 52qt Coleman Xtreme, and the fitting kit from Bargain Fittings, works great!

Like Cpt kirks says no issues with crushing, even with 21 lbs of grain.

Just curious, What option did you choose for the nipple size (teehee) from bargain fittings? I've got the Xtreme 70qt and am unsure which size I need. The wall thicknesses shouldn't be different between the two sizes.
 
Just curious, What option did you choose for the nipple size (teehee) from bargain fittings? I've got the Cyrene 70qt and am unsure which size I need. The wall thicknesses shouldn't be different between the two sizes.

I also have the 52qt Xtreme and a SS fitting kit from Bargain Fittings. I ordered the 2" nipple and it works great.
 
Just curious, What option did you choose for the nipple size (teehee) from bargain fittings? I've got the Cyrene 70qt and am unsure which size I need. The wall thicknesses shouldn't be different between the two sizes.

BargainFittings used to sell an "Extreme Kit" that used the 2" nipple, so for a Coleman Xtreme it works great (which if my memory serves me correctly the Xtreme coolers ar almost 1 3/4" thick), if it were any thicker I would use a 2.5" nip...ple.:mug:
 
Just curious, What option did you choose for the nipple size (teehee) from bargain fittings? I've got the Cyrene 70qt and am unsure which size I need. The wall thicknesses shouldn't be different between the two sizes.

I used the parts list from "How To Brew" to make mine. That was before I discovered Bargain Fittings.
 
I found the wider diameter braid to be more resilient to crushing than the smaller braid.
 
Thanks to everyone for their input...i'm all ready for my first all grain brew this weekend...i've done one extract with specialty grains so far...and one partial mash....i have received 4 all grain kits for austin homebrew supply today, and my mash tun is all ready...Here are some photos of my mash tun setup.

I used this piece on the inside of the tun to push up against the seal that came with the cooler..I don't know what it is made of though because the packaging didn't say...but I think it's brass. Any thoughts? It was called a kitchen locknut
5331024475_c957a07870.jpg


5331024279_5dc6f8a550.jpg


5331634082_90592b4608.jpg


5331633914_1fccc44926.jpg


5331023357_bb7273e6f7.jpg


5331023161_c0a1b44fd1.jpg


5331026455_c53376eaac.jpg
 
Now the question is which beer do I brew first...I got a dry stout... an English pale ale...a Belgian wheat...and a bevarian hefeweizen.

Go with the Belgina for two reasons:

First, it has the greatest room for error

Second, Wheat/Wits are menat to be drank young, so you'll have drinkable beer sooner. (2 week primary, 2 week keg, or 3 week bottle condition...IMO).

Good luck, Cheers!
 
So I was going to brew today, but due to it snowing right now I'm delaying my brew until tomorrow. It's probably not good to have it snowing into my wort. I smacked my yeast activator pack last night, and it swelled. Should I put it in the fridge and take it out in the morning or just keep it on the counter until tomorrow?
 
So I was going to brew today, but due to it snowing right now I'm delaying my brew until tomorrow. It's probably not good to have it snowing into my wort. I smacked my yeast activator pack last night, and it swelled. Should I put it in the fridge and take it out in the morning or just keep it on the counter until tomorrow?

Make a starter
 
i don't have any dme to make a starter...the beer i'm making isn't high gravity either and i have had success with the activator packs in 1.050 beers...and i'm brewing tomorrow. what are your thoughts on putting the already smacked pack back in the fridge?
 
Fine, just take it out a good while before pitching. It's not ideal, of course, but then neither is using a straight smack pack.

Just might have a somewhat slower start, if anything.
 
Back
Top