Spike System (20 gal) Review

[juggabrew]

Has anyone needed to cut the hoses shorter than what spike recommends? I’m going threw dry runs to get a hold of which hoses to move around. Seems to me there’s way more hose than needed and could result in heat loss

 

[Brewfreedom]

I'm using the lengths they cut and actually might make new longer ones since its a little tight from the bk to the wort pump. Lengths are for workflow config/optimization. Im usually 3 degrees between mash tun out and hlt.

 

[Brewfreedom]

Once at temp between probe in t out of mashtun and htl. Tax day brew day.

 

[eric19312]

congrats that's a sweet brewing system am sure you will get it dialed in quickly

I've never tried a shop vac for cleaning mash tun but am so happy since I added a BIAB to it. Cleanup is really easy now, yes full disassembly is still required but really it is done and put away before the boil is done. I'm doing half barrel batches in a 15 gallon mash tun so am used to dealing with 30-35 pound grain bills. The BIAB bag and hoist pulls the grain out of the kettle while it is still hot, lets me focus on the kettle while the grain cools. A couple hours later when I'm wrapping up I dispose of the grain which by now is very dry and well cooled.

With respect to your issues with temperature variation. I am confused about your batch size given this is a 20 gallon system. I have a spike 20 gallon kettle for my boil, actually holds something like 23 gallons and I use it for half barrel batches. My preboil volume is about 10 gallons and I boil to 18 gallons and transfer 16 gallons to fermentor. My mash tun is full. Mash is 12-15 inches deep from surface to false bottom. Temperatures are quite stable and I don't detect hot spots and I am using direct fire recirculation...I'd think with the superior spike kettle and HERMS you should be able to get very stable mash temps without the variability so suggest try a larger batch

On your question about the counterflow chilling and cold break. I think it is pretty hard to seperate cold break in the kettle. Once the wort chills it gets pretty thick and the break falls pretty slow. If you give it a long time it will clear but then you risk contamination. You are also probably picking up a lot of oxygen which is ok if you are ready to pitch yeast but maybe not ok just sitting there for a couple hours before you transfer and pitch. If I had a conical I think counterflow would be the bomb as I could let the break settle in the conical and limit exposure to both organisms and oxygen before pitching yeast.

 

[Rob2010SS]

congrats that's a sweet brewing system am sure you will get it dialed in quickly

I've never tried a shop vac for cleaning mash tun but am so happy since I added a BIAB to it. Cleanup is really easy now, yes full disassembly is still required but really it is done and put away before the boil is done. I'm doing half barrel batches in a 15 gallon mash tun so am used to dealing with 30-35 pound grain bills. The BIAB bag and hoist pulls the grain out of the kettle while it is still hot, lets me focus on the kettle while the grain cools. A couple hours later when I'm wrapping up I dispose of the grain which by now is very dry and well cooled.

With respect to your issues with temperature variation. I am confused about your batch size given this is a 20 gallon system. I have a spike 20 gallon kettle for my boil, actually holds something like 23 gallons and I use it for half barrel batches. My preboil volume is about 10 gallons and I boil to 18 gallons and transfer 16 gallons to fermentor. My mash tun is full. Mash is 12-15 inches deep from surface to false bottom. Temperatures are quite stable and I don't detect hot spots and I am using direct fire recirculation...I'd think with the superior spike kettle and HERMS you should be able to get very stable mash temps without the variability so suggest try a larger batch

On your question about the counterflow chilling and cold break. I think it is pretty hard to seperate cold break in the kettle. Once the wort chills it gets pretty thick and the break falls pretty slow. If you give it a long time it will clear but then you risk contamination. You are also probably picking up a lot of oxygen which is ok if you are ready to pitch yeast but maybe not ok just sitting there for a couple hours before you transfer and pitch. If I had a conical I think counterflow would be the bomb as I could let the break settle in the conical and limit exposure to both organisms and oxygen before pitching yeast.

Thanks!

Yeah the BIAB bag worked really well in my old cooler mash tun. I do plan to incorporate that into this system as well. Just need to buy one.

In regards to batch sizes, the system is capable of doing 6-15 gallon batches. I've been running small batches (7-8 gallons) to get used to the processes of the system. I'd rather screw up 7 or 8 gallons than 15. I plan to move to 15 gallon batches as soon as I get a unitank big enough. Will probably be closer to the summer. The temp variation that I was seeing, I suspect, is as others have pointed out. I had my pumps running at a trickle instead of full bore. On my next brew, I plan to run full bore to see if that corrects the problem and I suspect it should.

As for the cold break, I've been running the counterflow chiller back into the BK until it's at pitching temp. I've then been killing the pump, letting the wort sit in the BK for 20 min or so to settle, and then transferring to the fermenter. But you bring up a valid point about just going right from the chiller to the fermenter. About 2 days in I'm dumping trub anyway which would do the trick I think.

 

[Zenmeister]

I got my 20 Gallon Spike system in December, and finally had it all assembled in January. I got the full system with the 50A panel but excluded the table and chiller. I am going to use Rob2010's (the OP) same outline for my comments here. I have now had five batches with it.

Quality of parts / Packaging
I had issues with the panel for several weeks as there was a wire that didn't complete a circuit in the panel and the BK PID wouldn't work. Turns out it was a bad part from China, but the panel manufacturer sent the wire to me. That caused a three week delay, primarily due to the Christmas/New Years holidays.
Additionally, I have found that the temperatures on the BK PID is not showing accurately. The Boil Kettle PID shows boiling at 207 deg F, and when I asked Spike they said that my altitude (295 feet ASL) was the cause of it. This is highly unlikely, especially as a separate thermometer shows the temp at boil to be 212 deg F, not 207. The other thermometer also shows a similar discrepancy throughout the temperature ranges in the BK. Probably I will simply need to re-autotuned it to get it right.
Finally, I had issues with one of the pumps. It was impossible to get two of the screws off the head on one of the pumps as they were significantly overtightened. Spike sent me a new pump, and it too had the same issues. They finally sent me my original pump back and somehow figured out how to loosen the screws.
If it sounds as if I am overblowing this, I probably am. Spike addressed everything IMMEDIATELY, and these issues were more like mosquito bites than anything important. Irritating, but when they go away the are forgotten.
The rest of the system is great as Rob2010 stated, and if I had my choice I would absolutely buy it again.

Installation and Assembly
I completely echo the OP's comments. I did not properly seat the HERMS coil, and boy did I learn that was a mistake. (Imagine your HLT flooding, draining the water from the Mash Tun, and that happy sound of a waterfall splashing on your garage floor...) Remember, when you install the coil it must be tight and square to the HLT, not at an angle.

Using the HLT
One of things I love about the 50A panel is the ability to heat up the BK and HLT at the same time. On brew day I come down at 7:00 am, fill up the desired quantities of water, and fire up the heaters in the BK and MT. I then transfer the preheated water out of the BK to the MT and am up and running. Its always ready by the time I take a shower and get my coffee going.

Using the MT
I have my MT valves wide open during the mash process. My temps seem to be consistent with no temperature stratification. I am curious tho, and will throw my thermometer into the mash at several locations on my next brew day to see how it measures. I did add two smaller 3' hoses just for my mash and sparge process. I felt that I was having too much temperature loss with my 6' hoses, and now the dif between the two kettles is just one or two degrees F.

Using the BK
Same as OP, except I got the Steam Slayer. Ive gotta say, I absolutely love it. No Steam no issues whatsoever. If you're even thinking of it, just get it and move on. It's well worth it.

Using the Counterflow Chiller
I also love my Exchillerator. Usually takes me 5-8 minutes to chill a 12 gal batch, and very easy to clean.

Cleaning (CIP?)
Again, I mostly agree with the OP that cleaning is a bit of a chore.
Shortly after finishing my sparge, I will clean out the spent grains, pull the false bottom, then take the MT to a hose and rinse as much grain matter as possible off it. I then give it a sponge bath to wash extra residue out, and put it back on the table. At that point I transfer about five gals of 160 deg F water from my HLT (again, an advantage of having a 50A panel) add PBW and let it cycle through the HERMS coil and into the MT. I do that for about 10 mins, drain, and rinse it with the same temp and quantity of clean water. I am done cleaning the MT and all accessories with plenty of time left on the boil. (I may consider the BIAB option, however...)
I have learned however to be very careful and not drain my HLT of water. I did that the first time, and dry fired the element for a bit.
The shop vac is essential for cleaning as well, as it will allow you to get the very last bit of water out of the kettles.

Conclusion
I was in the same conundrum about the SS system, but just couldn't wait for it to come. I do like my spike, tho, and as stated earlier would not change it at all. Brew days are right now at about 6.5 hours, but I believe I should get them to 6.0 hours from start of mash to end of cleaning.

 

[jready]

I’m not familiar with the steam slayer can you expand on that?

 

[Zenmeister]

It is a simple condenser that essentially eliminates all steam from escaping the boil kettle. There is an extensive thread on it, and I am not going to go into details here. This accessory has allowed me to brew in my garage with all the doors shut and no ventilation for the steam, with no DMS off flavors in the beer. Thanks Brun Dog for essentially creating this product, and Bobby at Brew Hardware for marketing it.

The thread is here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...denser-no-overhead-ventilation-needed.636955/

You can get it at Brew hardware at this page:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/steamslayer.htm

 

[TheMadKing]

Question for you spike system owners

Can anyone tell me how to the hop matter filtration/whirlpool works with a hoppy IPA (6+ Oz in the whirlpool)?

Do you use any kind of a hop filter or dam? Does the stock whirlpool keep your CFC from clogging?

 

[HopsNTails]

@NewJersey @k-os @Hwk-I-St8
Looks like spike has something in the works...

 

[Brewfreedom]

Question for you spike system owners

Can anyone tell me how to the hop matter filtration/whirlpool works with a hoppy IPA (6+ Oz in the whirlpool)?

Do you use any kind of a hop filter or dam? Does the stock whirlpool keep your CFC from clogging?

Never had an issue with it clogging. Whirlpool does a pretty good job piling crap up in the center.

 

[k-os]

@NewJersey @k-os @Hwk-I-St8
Looks like spike has something in the works...View attachment 623130

Nice! I'm curious to see how they have theirs setup.

 

[sharp6]

Sorry to revive an old thread. Have any of the 20 gal mash tun users done a small grain bill 6 gallon batch? I have a recipe that i just made that had only a 9lb grain bill and am wondering if you guys had real world experience with something similar. I did ask Spike what their min/max grain bill is for the 20 gal tun, they said they "estimate" 15 min to 40 lbs max. I am leaning toward the 15 gal pot because of this, but don't want to cut myself short in case I want to make a big beer. Any help is appreciated!

 

[CodeSection]

Sorry to revive an old thread. Have any of the 20 gal mash tun users done a small grain bill 6 gallon batch? I have a recipe that i just made that had only a 9lb grain bill and am wondering if you guys had real world experience with something similar. I did ask Spike what their min/max grain bill is for the 20 gal tun, they said they "estimate" 15 min to 40 lbs max. I am leaning toward the 15 gal pot because of this, but don't want to cut myself short in case I want to make a big beer. Any help is appreciated!

When I had discussions with Spike years ago, they basically said the same thing. You can make "big beer" just as easy in a 15 gal, but of course it depends upon your batch size and how big the ABV you are trying to achieve.

If you routinely brew 5-6 gallon batches, the 15 gallon MT is plenty even for a high ABV recipe. You might even get by with their 10 gallon MT. It really comes down to what you are brewing. From the sounds of it, the 20 gal MT would be way too large....

For my situation, I decided I would primarily brew 10 batches typically with a higher ABV. So I went with a 20 gallon MT. My grain bill typically is anywhere from 32-38 lbs.

 

[sharp6]

When I had discussions with Spike years ago, they basically said the same thing. You can make "big beer" just as easy in a 15 gal, but of course it depends upon your batch size and how big the ABV you are trying to achieve.

If you routinely brew 5-6 gallon batches, the 15 gallon MT is plenty even for a high ABV recipe. You might even get by with their 10 gallon MT. It really comes down to what you are brewing. From the sounds of it, the 20 gal MT would be way too large....

For my situation, I decided I would primarily brew 10 batches typically with a higher ABV. So I went with a 20 gallon MT. My grain bill typically is anywhere from 32-38 lbs.

About half the batches I brew are 6 gal and the other half 10 gal. I made a scotch ale last year with a 32 lb grain bill. They said they "estimate" that the min/max for the 15 gal spike tun is 8 - 30 lbs. I mash in a 15.5 gal keggle now and didnt have any issues with the scotch ale, but am not sure if the extra half gallon made the difference in me being able to fit all that grain in it. My memory is a bit fuzzy but i don't remember it being maxed out. I am leaning toward the 15 gallon and I guess I could just make 6 gallon batches of the bigger beers, and 10 gallon batches of lower ABV beer.. Decisions. Decisions...

 

[CodeSection]

About half the batches I brew are 6 gal and the other half 10 gal. I made a scotch ale last year with a 32 lb grain bill. They said they "estimate" that the min/max for the 15 gal spike tun is 8 - 30 lbs. I mash in a 15.5 gal keggle now and didnt have any issues with the scotch ale, but am not sure if the extra half gallon made the difference in me being able to fit all that grain in it. My memory is a bit fuzzy but i don't remember it being maxed out. I am leaning toward the 15 gallon and I guess I could just make 6 gallon batches of the bigger beers, and 10 gallon batches of lower ABV beer.. Decisions. Decisions...

Ok, just a couple of thoughts. With the new information, the 10 gallon MT is out. So, if the 15.5 gallon keggle was working, why the thinking on the 20 gallon MT? Say, the extra .5 gallon makes a difference in height of 1/2"-3/4"....that doesn't seem much that would require you to increase the MT from 15g to 20g.

I think you already made a case for you to buy the 15 gallon MT. But, if you want to make sure and if you have grain on hand, make I high ABV recipe (really only using your base grain) and add the grain to your current 15.5 g keggle and see where the height is.....

Again, it sounds like the 15 gallon would be perfect...

 

[sharp6]

Ok, just a couple of thoughts. With the new information, the 10 gallon MT is out. So, if the 15.5 gallon keggle was working, why the thinking on the 20 gallon MT? Say, the extra .5 gallon makes a difference in height of 1/2"-3/4"....that doesn't seem much that would require you to increase the MT from 15g to 20g.

I think you already made a case for you to buy the 15 gallon MT. But, if you want to make sure and if you have grain on hand, make I high ABV recipe (really only using your base grain) and add the grain to your current 15.5 g keggle and see where the height is.....

Again, it sounds like the 15 gallon would be perfect...

Agreed, i was just wishfully thinking someone had tried a low grain bill with the big MT, maybe i could brew a 15 gallon batch if i got a wild hair.. thanks for your help.

 

[k-os]

Agreed, i was just wishfully thinking someone had tried a low grain bill with the big MT, maybe i could brew a 15 gallon batch if i got a wild hair.. thanks for your help.

Short Circuited Brewers made a 5 gallon batch with the 20 gallon Spike Solo.

 

[user 231280]

I use 20 gallon spike kettles for my HERMS system and have occasionally made lower gravity 5 gallon batches. It works fine, provided your element in the brew kettle is low enough. You could also do a no-sparge batch and save a little time.

On the other side, 45 lbs of grain and a thickness of 1.25 qt/lb gives around 1-2 inches of space for a 10 gallon (actually 11-12) batch of imperial stout.

I think the 20 gallon system provides a lot of flexibility, but I mostly do 10 gallon batches.

 

[sharp6]

I use 20 gallon spike kettles for my HERMS system and have occasionally made lower gravity 5 gallon batches. It works fine, provided your element in the brew kettle is low enough. You could also do a no-sparge batch and save a little time.

On the other side, 45 lbs of grain and a thickness of 1.25 qt/lb gives around 1-2 inches of space for a 10 gallon (actually 11-12) batch of imperial stout.

I think the 20 gallon system provides a lot of flexibility, but I mostly do 10 gallon batches.

Nice! I have a 20 gal spike boil kettle (and 20 gal hlt with herms coil) and have no problem with 5-6 gallon batches, so I'm good there. Any idea the size of your lowest grain bill with the 20gal MT?

 

[user 231280]

I quick look showed around 12 lbs for the smallest grain bill. I don't recall any issues when I made it.

 

[sharp6]

I quick look showed around 12 lbs for the smallest grain bill. I don't recall any issues when I made it.

Thanks for checking. I'm gonna see if i can scale up that 9lb recipe a bit

 

[user 231280]

Best of luck. I plan for 5 gallons packaged, after kettle, chiller and fermenter losses.